Electra Townie rear drop out measurement
10-09-20, 08:22 AM
#1
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Electra Townie rear drop out measurement
Is the distance between the rear wheel drop out journals of Electra Townies the samer or diffrent depending on what hub it came with?
Is the inside measurment between the rear journals the same on all Townies or is there a diffrence between the rear wheel journals of bikes with 7 speed cassettes as opposed to those equipted with a single speed rear axle, a 3 or 7 or 8 speed internal rear hub?
I have an older 7D Electra Townie I would like to convert to an 8 speed internal Hub.
I don't have one of each to compare, I'm hopeing someone ight know these measurements.
Is the inside measurment between the rear journals the same on all Townies or is there a diffrence between the rear wheel journals of bikes with 7 speed cassettes as opposed to those equipted with a single speed rear axle, a 3 or 7 or 8 speed internal rear hub?
I have an older 7D Electra Townie I would like to convert to an 8 speed internal Hub.
I don't have one of each to compare, I'm hopeing someone ight know these measurements.
Last edited by CNRed; 10-09-20 at 11:48 AM.
10-09-20, 09:23 AM
#2
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Measure!
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10-09-20, 09:41 AM
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"One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions" RADM Grace Hopper
10-09-20, 11:49 AM
#6
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I understand the concept of taking a measurement.
I don't have both bikes available to take the measurements from, and compare them to one and other.
My question is: Are all electra Townie frames congruent with respect to the rear drop out journals, or Is a 7D frame the same as or narrower then an 8 internal hub frame.
I don't have both bikes available to take the measurements from, and compare them to one and other.
My question is: Are all electra Townie frames congruent with respect to the rear drop out journals, or Is a 7D frame the same as or narrower then an 8 internal hub frame.
11-10-21, 09:41 PM
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I will say that most all "modern" Townies are based on the 135mm x 10mm rear. Now actual measurements might drift from this due to tolerances and real life. Also there's no reason why one year's bike will be the same as the next production version, especially given today's manufacture's challenges... This is why one measurement is worth so much. Andy
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11-11-21, 03:54 AM
#9
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Hello ..I had mine apart a couple of weeks ago to replace the chain and freewheel ..Noticed the bearings were rough and replaced them and the pitted cones at the same time .. I measured the dropout with a digital caliper as I'm thinking of upgrading this wheel/hub ..I am disabled and can't walk/stand for long ... I can however ride this bike for hours .. I have put a 1000 watt front hub motor on to help in the wind/hills and traffic .. Put on heavier and bigger ebike rated tires and now feel this stock rear rim/hub is the weak point .. any suggestions on an upgrade ? seems to be really hard to find a wheel with all the specs I need/want ... One builder emailed me he can build a wheel but wants to change the hub to a cassette ...I ride average of 9 mph ..use the motor on cruise control set to 7-8mph and I petal up to 9-10 mph .. just cruise usually for 1 hour at a time .. I have lost 50 pounds this year and seem slightly more healthy partly thanks to this bike .. Thanks for reading this long post ...don
11-11-21, 04:08 AM
#10
Junior Member
The townie I have has a Quick release 10 mm axle .. Would it hurt anything to put a solid axle with nuts on it instead ??.. Get the hollow axle out of there ??? Thanks don
11-17-21, 08:24 AM
#11
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Thread Starter
Hello ..I had mine apart a couple of weeks ago to replace the chain and freewheel ..Noticed the bearings were rough and replaced them and the pitted cones at the same time .. I measured the dropout with a digital caliper as I'm thinking of upgrading this wheel/hub ..I am disabled and can't walk/stand for long ... I can however ride this bike for hours .. I have put a 1000 watt front hub motor on to help in the wind/hills and traffic .. Put on heavier and bigger ebike rated tires and now feel this stock rear rim/hub is the weak point .. any suggestions on an upgrade ? seems to be really hard to find a wheel with all the specs I need/want ... One builder emailed me he can build a wheel but wants to change the hub to a cassette ...I ride average of 9 mph ..use the motor on cruise control set to 7-8mph and I petal up to 9-10 mph .. just cruise usually for 1 hour at a time .. I have lost 50 pounds this year and seem slightly more healthy partly thanks to this bike .. Thanks for reading this long post ...don
Unfortunately I know very little about electric bikes.
It's fantastic that you are using the bike and that your health is responding postivitly because of it.
As for the rear axle, I cant see an issue with replacing the hollow rear axle with a solid one. I'm sure someone with more experience then me will chime in with better information.
Do you do your own wrenching?
11-17-21, 08:36 AM
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My preferred method is to bring the current axle to act as a reference when buying a new one.
Apart from that - and assuming you know how to do bearing adjustments, go right ahead.
Keep in mind that apart from a mild theft deterrent, an axle swap may not do much for you.
Last edited by dabac; 11-17-21 at 08:40 AM.
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11-17-21, 09:18 AM
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If you really want a stronger rear axle, changing to a cassette type hub is the best solution
Last edited by alcjphil; 11-17-21 at 09:22 AM.
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11-17-21, 10:59 AM
#14
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Don,
Unfortunately I know very little about electric bikes.
It's fantastic that you are using the bike and that your health is responding postivitly because of it.
As for the rear axle, I cant see an issue with replacing the hollow rear axle with a solid one. I'm sure someone with more experience then me will chime in with better information.
Do you do your own wrenching?
Unfortunately I know very little about electric bikes.
It's fantastic that you are using the bike and that your health is responding postivitly because of it.
As for the rear axle, I cant see an issue with replacing the hollow rear axle with a solid one. I'm sure someone with more experience then me will chime in with better information.
Do you do your own wrenching?
11-17-21, 11:05 AM
#15
Junior Member
Axles can have different threads, so you can’t buy one at random and expect it to work out.
My preferred method is to bring the current axle to act as a reference when buying a new one.
Apart from that - and assuming you know how to do bearing adjustments, go right ahead.
Keep in mind that apart from a mild theft deterrent, an axle swap may not do much for you.
My preferred method is to bring the current axle to act as a reference when buying a new one.
Apart from that - and assuming you know how to do bearing adjustments, go right ahead.
Keep in mind that apart from a mild theft deterrent, an axle swap may not do much for you.
11-17-21, 11:11 AM
#16
Junior Member
What would be the point of changing the axle? Hollow axles with good quality quick releases used properly are at least as strong as solid axles. My own experience with one bike that had solid axles which broke on a regular basis(once or twice each year) was that changing to a quick release axle pretty much solved that problem, I only broke the axle once in the next 5 years
If you really want a stronger rear axle, changing to a cassette type hub is the best solution
If you really want a stronger rear axle, changing to a cassette type hub is the best solution
Any ideas on what components would work and/or where to find them .. I have been looking without much success .. Thanks for the Help ..
11-17-21, 11:24 AM
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Hello .. Thanks for your reply .. I just had this hub apart replaced the cones and balls and measured everything while it was apart ..I have received the new solid axle ..it's the right one ..Just wondering if it will really help anything? The hollow axle seems like a weak link however it has been fine for 2 years of daily rides .. The new $7 dollar one ..who knows what it's made of .. Ha ..I just gotta mess with everything ..
So for the same quality of steel, a solid axle isn’t much stronger than a hollow axle.
One can even argue the case that hollow axles are safer. If a hollow axle would break, there is still the skewer holding the pieces together and preventing an Immediate disaster.
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