BB Sizing
03-30-22, 02:10 PM
#1
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BB Sizing
I am building an NOS Fuji S12S for my spouse. 48cm frame. Sugino XD600 triple crank. RSX FD. 113-118 mm suggested. Any thoughts on which way to lean? Need to make sure I have FD clearance
03-30-22, 03:03 PM
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Before Al frames and/or super wide rear ends the aprox. 5mm difference in suggested were to set the chainline further out so the ft der wouldn't bottom out on the seat tube (with Al frames and their often fatter seat tubes). Given that and that your bike likely has a significant chainstay clearance indent I would try the 113 first. But I do like a narrow "Q" factor and have no problem with ending up with a spare BB in case my guess was wrong. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
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03-30-22, 03:27 PM
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Before Al frames and/or super wide rear ends the aprox. 5mm difference in suggested were to set the chainline further out so the ft der wouldn't bottom out on the seat tube (with Al frames and their often fatter seat tubes). Given that and that your bike likely has a significant chainstay clearance indent I would try the 113 first. But I do like a narrow "Q" factor and have no problem with ending up with a spare BB in case my guess was wrong. Andy
03-30-22, 08:29 PM
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Ah... more data. I didn't know you had the oem parts. I prefer to start with the old stuff as the base to change from. Although I'm still unsure if the OEM BB had the Sugino XD600 crank on it. If not have you tried the OEM BB and XCD crank together to see where you need to change dimensions yet? Andy
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AndrewRStewart
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03-30-22, 09:45 PM
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Ah... more data. I didn't know you had the oem parts. I prefer to start with the old stuff as the base to change from. Although I'm still unsure if the OEM BB had the Sugino XD600 crank on it. If not have you tried the OEM BB and XCD crank together to see where you need to change dimensions yet? Andy
Also, those Fuji cranks were swaged, no spider.
Last edited by etherhuffer; 03-30-22 at 09:56 PM.
03-31-22, 11:44 AM
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03-31-22, 11:49 AM
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Yes, my take as well. Ordering a new unit today. Thanks for the help!
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03-31-22, 12:02 PM
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03-31-22, 12:09 PM
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03-31-22, 12:19 PM
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My 75 Fuji S10s has a 70mm BB shell; not sure if that is the case on yours or if it may matter.
...just an FYI.
...just an FYI.
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03-31-22, 02:01 PM
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04-09-22, 09:59 PM
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I got my new Tange BB and ran it by hand. Hmmmm...... It spins quite freely before I put it in. Without torquing the BB in, just hand snug, the spindle is noticeably harder to spin, fair amount of drag. Thoughts?
04-10-22, 06:00 PM
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Looks like a chase and face is in order, not seated in frame. Dang!
04-11-22, 01:01 PM
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Gap at top of BB, not at bottom. It went in smoothly, but the OEM may have been cross threaded so hard to say. As the non fixed cup is pulled out, the unit spins well again
04-11-22, 02:00 PM
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Oh, ok things look good. Loosen up the non drive and tighten the drive side to bb shell and tighten the non drive to where it stops. There will be a gap on the non drive cup. You say it threaded in by hand?
Last edited by Mr. 66; 04-11-22 at 02:15 PM.
04-11-22, 02:19 PM
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That is all the way in by hand on drive side. I took NDS out, that is as far as it goes in. Flange hits bottom of BB first.
04-12-22, 01:47 PM
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The threads may be crossed (perhaps by a previous owner), because it sounds like the NDS spindle is not centered in that side of the BB shell (pointing "upwards" from the pictures I'd imagine).
If I'm unsure of the BB shell threads, I will usually thread the NDS cup all the way in first to help center the spindle as the BB case threads in from the DS. You might consider trying this -- it may help for the BB case to "find" the right threads in the shell if the NDS is forced to center.
If I'm unsure of the BB shell threads, I will usually thread the NDS cup all the way in first to help center the spindle as the BB case threads in from the DS. You might consider trying this -- it may help for the BB case to "find" the right threads in the shell if the NDS is forced to center.
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