FD-9000 cable touching cage
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FD-9000 cable touching cage
Hi guys,
I've recently installed an FD-9000 and an FC-9000 compact 50/34 on my bike. The cable seems to be touching the inner plate of the cage when the chain is on the inner ring, both lowest and trim positions. When it's on the outer ring, the cable is cleared of cage. I noticed the polymer coating is getting rubbed off. See attached pics. Is this ok? The shifting is good, well, as good as I can make it to be. I'm no expert mechanic by any means. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
AX
I've recently installed an FD-9000 and an FC-9000 compact 50/34 on my bike. The cable seems to be touching the inner plate of the cage when the chain is on the inner ring, both lowest and trim positions. When it's on the outer ring, the cable is cleared of cage. I noticed the polymer coating is getting rubbed off. See attached pics. Is this ok? The shifting is good, well, as good as I can make it to be. I'm no expert mechanic by any means. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
AX
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You did use the TL-FD90 fixture to determine whether you need to move the converter didn't you? Page 10 of the link below.
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...002-05-ENG.pdf
Though I'm wondering if this isn't just that the cable routing from the frame is just poor for that front DR. What bike is this? Maybe your seat tube angle makes routing for that model DR a little harder?
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...002-05-ENG.pdf
Though I'm wondering if this isn't just that the cable routing from the frame is just poor for that front DR. What bike is this? Maybe your seat tube angle makes routing for that model DR a little harder?
Last edited by Iride01; 09-09-21 at 12:53 PM.
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You did use the TL-FD90 fixture to determine whether you need to move the converter didn't you? Page 10 of the link below.
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...002-05-ENG.pdf
Though I'm wondering if this isn't just that the cable routing from the frame is just poor for that front DR. What bike is this? Maybe your seat tube angle makes routing for that model DR a little harder?
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...002-05-ENG.pdf
Though I'm wondering if this isn't just that the cable routing from the frame is just poor for that front DR. What bike is this? Maybe your seat tube angle makes routing for that model DR a little harder?
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I noticed that the only Factor O2's they show on their webpage are electronic shifting.
Though maybe if you get a different model front DR then the cable will attach without interference. The newer fd-r9100 has a different configuration and doesn't have that arm going way up there. Nor do you need the converter tool.
Though maybe if you get a different model front DR then the cable will attach without interference. The newer fd-r9100 has a different configuration and doesn't have that arm going way up there. Nor do you need the converter tool.
#5
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The newer Shimano FDs (R91000, R8000, 5801,R7000) has a fixed guide for the first contact of the cable to the unit. It even allows the use of cable housing all the way to the FD.
This design keeps the cable at the same angle while shifting, just in-line movement of the cable.
This may be a viable work-around to the unusual cable exit point.
This design keeps the cable at the same angle while shifting, just in-line movement of the cable.
This may be a viable work-around to the unusual cable exit point.
#6
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Not that this is gonna help the cable issue, but it appears that the chain is rubbing on the back cross piece of the derailleur cage when it's on the small chainring.
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Just used TL-FD68 to check the cable alignment. It seems that it's dead in the middle. So the converter on/off doesn't matter. I probably will just use the FD-9000 for now. The FD-9100/8000 stuff is still pretty pricy these days. Maybe their price can come down a little after 12spd stuff is widely available. But then it might not, since 9100/8000 series would be the last generation of all mechanical groups.
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Oh, I took the rear wheel off so I can get that pic on the cable exit hole. The chain is sitting on the back cross piece of the derailleur cage.
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Are you certain they intended mechanical DR's to be routed internally in that frame? Or maybe there is some other place they intended you to drill out to use mechanical shifters.
I'm still in my head having trouble visualizing that the cable isn't making a really sharp bend there inside where the downtube meets the BB shell. And that will make your cable bind up and be hard to pull and slow to release.
But maybe it's not near the bend I imagine it to be.
I'm still in my head having trouble visualizing that the cable isn't making a really sharp bend there inside where the downtube meets the BB shell. And that will make your cable bind up and be hard to pull and slow to release.
But maybe it's not near the bend I imagine it to be.
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Are you certain they intended mechanical DR's to be routed internally in that frame? Or maybe there is some other place they intended you to drill out to use mechanical shifters.
I'm still in my head having trouble visualizing that the cable isn't making a really sharp bend there inside where the downtube meets the BB shell. And that will make your cable bind up and be hard to pull and slow to release.
But maybe it's not near the bend I imagine it to be.
I'm still in my head having trouble visualizing that the cable isn't making a really sharp bend there inside where the downtube meets the BB shell. And that will make your cable bind up and be hard to pull and slow to release.
But maybe it's not near the bend I imagine it to be.
The bend you are talking about is the plastic cable guide sits on the outside shell of the BB. The cable guide will be snapped into the cut out. In this 02 frame, there's a carbon BB sleeve that reinforces that area where the BBright will be pressed into. This is actually a good feature, I think. Unlike my Canyon Ultimate, there's no sleeve, just a big hole cut open on the BB shell.
I doubt I want to take out my hand drill to drill a hole in the BB area on a carbon frame. Because when they designed this frame in some CAD software, that plastic cable guide cable groove should lead the cable to that exit hole. If I drill a hole somewhere else, that hole will not be aligned with the cable groove. I just created a new problem.
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Okay, I feel better about the bend not being too tight a radius. Still, it seem like they put the hole if the wrong place if they intended this frame to also work well with a wide variety of mechanical DR's. Even when externally routed, cable routing around the BB shell has always been an occasional issue for certain models of DR's even back in the 70's.
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not clear, but is that cable fraying or guide fraying in the pictures?
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Okay, I feel better about the bend not being too tight a radius. Still, it seem like they put the hole if the wrong place if they intended this frame to also work well with a wide variety of mechanical DR's. Even when externally routed, cable routing around the BB shell has always been an occasional issue for certain models of DR's even back in the 70's.
The cable touching the inner surface of the FD cage when in low and trim position remains a question mark.
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Have you emailed Factor to see if they have any suggestions? Some mfrs are real good about answering customer emails. Others aren't.
If the cable isn't able to remain straight from where it leaves the guide to where it attaches to the DR though out it's range of motion, then that is an issue. Perhaps opening up that hole is intended when it's needed. But check with them or a rep at a LBS that deals with Factor bikes.
If the cable isn't able to remain straight from where it leaves the guide to where it attaches to the DR though out it's range of motion, then that is an issue. Perhaps opening up that hole is intended when it's needed. But check with them or a rep at a LBS that deals with Factor bikes.