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Tubeless Update

Old 06-01-22, 06:32 AM
  #26  
elcruxio
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I've been doing road and mtb tubeless for a while now (since 2012 or so I think). I started out with tires and rims which weren't tubeless compatible and there were a lot of issues, like a used tire not sealing again etc.

I've since moved to using only tubeless compatible rims and tires and I honestly can't subscribe to many of the issues stated here. I haven't had issues with drying up or pooling sealant. The one puncture I've had not seal could be plugged with a bacon strip. And tire/rim combos these days lock the tire so well that non sealing is a thing of the past even with seriously worn tires. And in the end the sealant will take care of any small leaks that may develop due to a misplaced nugget of dried up sealant etc.

The only times I've had any rim/tire sealing issue have always been due to a bad tape job. Getting the tape put on correctly is essential but once done it's set and forget.
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Old 06-01-22, 08:14 AM
  #27  
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Update:
Well I have have officially had the first flat that didn't completely seal all the way on it's own. It did seal well enough that it wouldn't leave me stranded. It sealed to the point of a very slow leak (25 to 10 psi overnight), but even after a couple days and another ride it is still not maintaining pressure. I think I'll try a bacon strip repair. it seems odd that such a small hole didn't completely seal when what was probably scores of other similar ones did. I put a sharpened piece of spoke in the hole to mark the spot for plugging with a bacon strip and it completely stopped any leakage. I ordered the "PRO BIKE TOOL Tubeless Bike Tire Repair Kit" and it is supposed to be here tomorrow.

I might stopping carrying a tube for local MTB rides. I figure tubeless has been really reliable and I can always call for a ride if a tubeless repair isn't possible and the walk is too far. Getting rid of the tube would make room for a co2 inflator in the little seat tool wedge. I don't use co2 on tours, but around home it is nice not have to deal with the mini pump, which I'll still have as a backup.
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Old 06-01-22, 08:55 AM
  #28  
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It's leaking 25-10 PSI or is that what's left?

If it's leaking 25-10 overnight, that's not bad.
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Old 06-01-22, 09:10 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Trsnrtr
It's leaking 25-10 PSI or is that what's left?

If it's leaking 25-10 overnight, that's not bad.
25 psi in the evening, 10 psi maybe 12 hours later in the morning when I checked.

For all I know it might have been down to 10 psi much sooner and stopped losing air or at least slowed way down once at that lower pressure.
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Old 06-02-22, 07:40 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by staehpj1
That is a big plus IMO. A more supple tire is a joy to ride on. A lighter tire weight is a big plus as well but the supple feel is what I actually notice in a tire. Some don't mind, but a thick stiff sidewall (even more so with a heavy duty tube) suck much of the joy out of the ride. A heavy belt doesn't help either, but I suspect the sidewall is where most of the problem with supple ride is.

The tube effectively acts to stiffen the sidewall, but IME light latex ones aren't so bad and TPU ones are reportedly even better. The problem is you still need a tire with thorn protection in thorn country where with tubeless the sealant takes care of that with no tube.
Well, I just set it up tubeless with Rene Herse 55mm Antelope Hill tires (endurance plus). They set up far easer than some of the other RH tires I have on other bikes. They held air even without sealant, so I am fairly confident it will be ok. (I used Orange Seal Endurance because I was out of the Panaracer stuff, and if I do get to tour and need to top it off, there is a better chance of finding it in a bike shop.)
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Old 06-03-22, 04:48 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Polaris OBark
Well, I just set it up tubeless with Rene Herse 55mm Antelope Hill tires (endurance plus). They set up far easer than some of the other RH tires I have on other bikes. They held air even without sealant, so I am fairly confident it will be ok. (I used Orange Seal Endurance because I was out of the Panaracer stuff, and if I do get to tour and need to top it off, there is a better chance of finding it in a bike shop.)
I hadn't thought much about topping up sealant when touring since for me usage was local and sealant has gone a long time between topping up and I use an available brand that is latex based. That is probably short sighted on my part since a bad leak or three could deplete the sealant and it would be a pain to have a non sealing condition due to low sealant.

It makes me wonder if it is worth carrying a few ounces of sealant. That and maybe having some other refill sized bottles at home ready to be mailed via general delivery to have one as a spare after using the one you were carrying. Is that overkill?

I wonder about compatibility between sealant brands. Using a brand that is readily available is probably smart. Also I'd bet compatibility between brands isn't much of an issue if you stick with latex based products. Given the choice, I'd stay with the same brand, but if it wasn't available I'd switch as necessary. It might not be a bad idea to rinse out the old sealant if filling with another brand so I'd probably do that, but still staying with a similar base is likely a good idea.

I am just spitballing here anyone know a bit more about the likely consequences?
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Old 06-03-22, 05:18 AM
  #32  
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Probably not a bad idea to carry a small bottle of sealant. But I'd probably plug up any punctures which did not seal immediately with some sort of plugging system. Small punctures are usually unnoticed but with larger ones it makes sense to plug rather than wait until either the sealant plugs it or you run out. Even dynaplug replacements are pretty cheap and they weigh next to nothing.
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Old 06-03-22, 05:46 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by elcruxio
Probably not a bad idea to carry a small bottle of sealant. But I'd probably plug up any punctures which did not seal immediately with some sort of plugging system. Small punctures are usually unnoticed but with larger ones it makes sense to plug rather than wait until either the sealant plugs it or you run out. Even dynaplug replacements are pretty cheap and they weigh next to nothing.
Yeah, my experience at home would indicate no need for any rush in topping up. It has been a gradual thing over the long haul, even with lots of thorns and no plugging. Only recently have I even needed to use a plug for the first time.

I just wonder if there are situations that demand more sudden or more frequent topping up that may occur during a tour and maybe where sealant was less available. I have very little experience with plugs (other than having plugged many car tires back in the 60s). They seem quite sticky. Do they seal without sealant in the tire? If so between plugs and patches sealant topping up is much more likely to be able to wait. Having to patch is a pain and takes some to me cleaning and drying the spot, but is do-able if you have the means to remount the tire after breaking the bead. On my current setup remounting is easy, but some are not without a compressor or special means to seat.
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Old 06-03-22, 09:17 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by staehpj1
I hadn't thought much about topping up sealant when touring since for me usage was local and sealant has gone a long time between topping up and I use an available brand that is latex based. That is probably short sighted on my part since a bad leak or three could deplete the sealant and it would be a pain to have a non sealing condition due to low sealant.

It makes me wonder if it is worth carrying a few ounces of sealant. That and maybe having some other refill sized bottles at home ready to be mailed via general delivery to have one as a spare after using the one you were carrying. Is that overkill?

I wonder about compatibility between sealant brands. Using a brand that is readily available is probably smart. Also I'd bet compatibility between brands isn't much of an issue if you stick with latex based products. Given the choice, I'd stay with the same brand, but if it wasn't available I'd switch as necessary. It might not be a bad idea to rinse out the old sealant if filling with another brand so I'd probably do that, but still staying with a similar base is likely a good idea.

I am just spitballing here anyone know a bit more about the likely consequences?

These were all the concerns I had lumped generically under "fear". Also I've got some 42mm RH tires set up on my wife's e-bike, and it has been perfectly fine until one day last week (right before I posted the question) I went into the garage and the rear tire was completely deflated. I pumped it up and it wouldn't re-seat until I used the charge canister on the pump. It is perfectly fine again. I didn't even add more sealant. I had changed the tire only about a month and a half ago, so there really wasn't time for the sealant to dry up (and it didn't). I would hate to have something like that happen on a tour, but I guess I could stick a tube in.

As far as compatibility goes, in general it is better not to mix, but I think if you are using sealants that are latex based, and it doesn't smell of ammonia, you can mix it. The Panaracer sealant is just hard to find in the wild, and it is filled with useless walnut shell fragments which makes it harder to work with. Orange Seal at least is common, but it has some sort of glitter-like microfibers in it, so best not to dump the waste anywhere near a water source.
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Old 06-03-22, 09:34 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Polaris OBark
These were all the concerns I had lumped generically under "fear". Also I've got some 42mm RH tires set up on my wife's e-bike, and it has been perfectly fine until one day last week (right before I posted the question) I went into the garage and the rear tire was completely deflated. I pumped it up and it wouldn't re-seat until I used the charge canister on the pump. It is perfectly fine again. I didn't even add more sealant. I had changed the tire only about a month and a half ago, so there really wasn't time for the sealant to dry up (and it didn't). I would hate to have something like that happen on a tour, but I guess I could stick a tube in.

As far as compatibility goes, in general it is better not to mix, but I think if you are using sealants that are latex based, and it doesn't smell of ammonia, you can mix it. The Panaracer sealant is just hard to find in the wild, and it is filled with useless walnut shell fragments which makes it harder to work with. Orange Seal at least is common, but it has some sort of glitter-like microfibers in it, so best not to dump the waste anywhere near a water source.
Yeah, but it isn't like seating would be a sure fail on tour. Compressors are pretty common even in home shops these days. Asking around in any town would locate one. Most farms have one. For the paranoid carrying a 1 pound canister like the airshot isn't out of the question (I wouldn't unless supported or maybe in shared gear with a group off grid.) Hitching a ride to a town or even a bike shop is fairly common for other problems so why not for this unless somewhere off grid. Also some rim/tire combos seat really easily. I'd *almost* be willing to risk not carrying a tube if it wasn't for the possibility of a sidewall tear or a big cut in the tread area.

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Old 06-03-22, 11:01 AM
  #36  
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I think I probably could have re-seated it with a CO_2 cartridge. It just took me by surprise, because i didn't have to do anything special the first time around. I attribute it to random fluctuations in the space-time continuum (and my wife being out of town, so the bike hadn't moved).

I had a tire disintegrate once on a tour (wasn't smart enough to start with fresh tires), so on a long one I would cary a spare tube and tire.
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