Fork Recommendations??
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Fork Recommendations??
Hello everyone. This is my first post. I'm new to somewhat serious road biking. I have a nice, aluminum bike, but decided to build my own steed. I obtained a really nice 90's Scapin "Geo" frame...very light steel frame. I need fork recommendations and a little direction. I think I want to stay away from a carbon fork, as I don't want to shell out big money for a quality carbon fork. I also want to stay away from cheaper priced carbon forks. I kind of live by the "you get what you pay for" mantra, and I don't want to risk a serious accident due to a faulty Chinese manufactured fork. I've considered the Ritchey Comp, which is at the higher end of my budget ($239 US). But even then, I'm a little concerned about the longevity of a carbon fork and the catastrophe that can occur if one breaks when I'm traveling along at 20+ mph. So I think I want to go with a steel fork. And that's where I need recommendations. The frame has a 1" diameter head tube and is about 5.25 inches long. I don't mind a threaded fork. But since the frame is somewhat "high-end" for the time period, I'd like to match it up with a more high-end fork. Any recommendations? In that regard, I will need recommendations as to how long the steerer tube on the fork should be, at the least. Thank you so much!!!
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I don't have a specific recommendation, but here are many options: https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/cat...ents-forks-975
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consider an aluminum fork
(although I prefer a carbon fork)
Kinesis is one brand - but not sure if they still produce them
(although I prefer a carbon fork)
Kinesis is one brand - but not sure if they still produce them
Last edited by t2p; 06-17-22 at 01:54 PM.
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the steerer length is up to you (to a point)
don't cut it too short - keep it longer (with a small spacer/spacers) which will allow you a higher handlebar and hopefully better position and comfort on the bike
don't cut it too short - keep it longer (with a small spacer/spacers) which will allow you a higher handlebar and hopefully better position and comfort on the bike
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Kinesis alloy fork
1" threaded
note the steerer length - with spacer
someone that understands frame / fork geometry should assist if available
fork rake and amount of trail (etc) should be considered when purchasing / installing a fork
Last edited by t2p; 06-17-22 at 02:29 PM.
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IRD has some carbon forks at good prices. I have had good experience with the IRD branded parts which I believe are mostly Taiwanese. But on second thought, the IRD fork I'm thinking of my be 1-1/8" only. Columbus Minimal is another option. These are available in 1". If you look around online you may find one from an online bike Euro bike shop like bike24.com for about $175. The weight of the Columbus MInimal is impressively light at like 325 grams, You might inquire about the ride quality of such a lightweight fork combined with a steel framed classic road frame.
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IRD has some carbon forks at good prices. I have had good experience with the IRD branded parts which I believe are mostly Taiwanese. But on second thought, the IRD fork I'm thinking of my be 1-1/8" only. Columbus Minimal is another option. These are available in 1". If you look around online you may find one from an online bike Euro bike shop like bike24.com for about $175. The weight of the Columbus MInimal is impressively light at like 325 grams, You might inquire about the ride quality of such a lightweight fork combined with a steel framed classic road frame.
Now, for a light steel frame, what would give a better ride, a steel or carbon fork? I ride really flat desert roads.
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Thanks for the recommendation. I have a bit of concern about carbon forks, although I run one on my present bike (an old Kinesis fork). That has really held up. Maybe I just need to get over my fear and get a good quality carbon fork. I see that Ritchey makes a 1". What's the better name, Ritchey or Columbus? Also, another forum member recommended Soma Fabrication, which produces a few steel forks that seem to fit the bill. I don't mind the extra weight.
Now, for a light steel frame, what would give a better ride, a steel or carbon fork? I ride really flat desert roads.
Now, for a light steel frame, what would give a better ride, a steel or carbon fork? I ride really flat desert roads.
carbon forks are very durable - proven now for decades and can be found on a large number of bikes at various price points
and many (if not most) of the top custom steel and titanium frame builders will use carbon forks
we installed a Kinesis alloy fork on my one bike (pictured above) back in the early / mid 90's because carbon forks were fairly new / just appearing
a year or so later and I would have gone with a carbon fork
Last edited by t2p; 06-17-22 at 02:26 PM.
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Kinesis Carbon fork on my Marin Treviso ('0) has been on the bike since '02, and for sure has over 35K miles on it. Solid and shows no signs of age, I trust it completely.
Its so old it has nicely curved blades and is Not full CF, has an Alloy steerer.
Carbon fork smooths out the ride on any surface, and gives great 'feel' and control. This is my #2 bike, which says a lot, given the choices I have....
Steel and ALu certainly do work fine, but no where near the quality of ride of CF. Unlike Chrome or Paint, never needs more than a quick wipe clean.
Ride On
Yuri
Its so old it has nicely curved blades and is Not full CF, has an Alloy steerer.
Carbon fork smooths out the ride on any surface, and gives great 'feel' and control. This is my #2 bike, which says a lot, given the choices I have....
Steel and ALu certainly do work fine, but no where near the quality of ride of CF. Unlike Chrome or Paint, never needs more than a quick wipe clean.
Ride On
Yuri
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I obtained a really nice 90's Scapin "Geo" frame...very light steel frame.
...
I've considered the Ritchey Comp, which is at the higher end of my budget ($239 US). But even then, I'm a little concerned about the longevity of a carbon fork and the catastrophe that can occur if one breaks when I'm traveling along at 20+ mph.
...
I've considered the Ritchey Comp, which is at the higher end of my budget ($239 US). But even then, I'm a little concerned about the longevity of a carbon fork and the catastrophe that can occur if one breaks when I'm traveling along at 20+ mph.
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No, I'm not worried the frame will fault (that's what guys in my industry call it well steel fractures). And frankly, if you don't have anything positive to add, such as explaining why I am incorrect in my feelings about carbon, then you should post anything.
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I am positive that my juxtaposition of your lack of concern regarding the frame and your concern about the fork was a prompt to you to examine whether you are incorrect in your feelings about carbon.
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ArgoMan and I made up in another thread he started re: ICAN bike frames. So it also deescalated very quickly.
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Yes, Smelly and I are now in very good terms, thankfully, as he is a wealth of good info here! Thank you Smelly, and please pardon the undeserved jumpiness on my part.
NOW, I've made a decision to go with a steel fork from Soma Fab (Corsa one inch) for my stainless 1990's Italian frame. It will just look better. It will absorb the road well enough. I ride on nicely paved, flat desert roads. It will look really nice with the frame. Now here's where I really need advice:
1. Should I go threaded or threadless?
2. I'll be using an aluminum quill stem, if threaded (can I mate a quill with a threadless tube?).
3. If I go threaded, how long should the steerer tube be? Soma sells the Corsa with 140mm, 170mm, 200mm and 230mm lengths. I want more of a racy feel, as opposed to a long distance road bike. I have the ability to shorten the stem easily, if needed.
4. If you recommend threaded, what's a good headset recommendation? I'd like something a little racy. Aluminum is okay.
5. Is my wife cheating on me with the pool guy?
NOW, I've made a decision to go with a steel fork from Soma Fab (Corsa one inch) for my stainless 1990's Italian frame. It will just look better. It will absorb the road well enough. I ride on nicely paved, flat desert roads. It will look really nice with the frame. Now here's where I really need advice:
1. Should I go threaded or threadless?
2. I'll be using an aluminum quill stem, if threaded (can I mate a quill with a threadless tube?).
3. If I go threaded, how long should the steerer tube be? Soma sells the Corsa with 140mm, 170mm, 200mm and 230mm lengths. I want more of a racy feel, as opposed to a long distance road bike. I have the ability to shorten the stem easily, if needed.
4. If you recommend threaded, what's a good headset recommendation? I'd like something a little racy. Aluminum is okay.
5. Is my wife cheating on me with the pool guy?
#18
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A properly installed stem around a threadless steerer seems to provide a better mechanical connection than a properly installed quill stem in a threaded steerer. Whether there is any practical difference depends on how hard you plan to ride this bike. Also, threadless is mechanically simpler to me, mostly because I have no experience with threaded.
I don't think so. What would hold the steerer and fork up against the frame in this setup, unless you install an extra clamp above the headset?
Carefully measure the dimensions of the headtube and ask Soma which threaded steerer to get.
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ArgoMan and I made up in another thread he started re: ICAN bike frames. So it also deescalated very quickly.
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#21
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Digging this out.
I have a Litespeed Firenze with carbon fork that I don't ride and was trying to pass forward, but is not happening.
Something is missing when riding it. The steel is real thing. Yes, my bikes are all steel ones.
Now I started thinking, how about having a steel or titanium fork for it?
I read around that titanium will be pretty expensive and a bit bulk and of course heavier than the carbon one, or go to steel one?
Heavier is fine for me - steel would add around an extra pound.
Any suggestion/thoughts?
Thank you!
I have a Litespeed Firenze with carbon fork that I don't ride and was trying to pass forward, but is not happening.
Something is missing when riding it. The steel is real thing. Yes, my bikes are all steel ones.
Now I started thinking, how about having a steel or titanium fork for it?
I read around that titanium will be pretty expensive and a bit bulk and of course heavier than the carbon one, or go to steel one?
Heavier is fine for me - steel would add around an extra pound.
Any suggestion/thoughts?
Thank you!
#22
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Digging this out.
I have a Litespeed Firenze with carbon fork that I don't ride and was trying to pass forward, but is not happening.
Something is missing when riding it. The steel is real thing. Yes, my bikes are all steel ones.
Now I started thinking, how about having a steel or titanium fork for it?
I read around that titanium will be pretty expensive and a bit bulk and of course heavier than the carbon one, or go to steel one?
Heavier is fine for me - steel would add around an extra pound.
Any suggestion/thoughts?
Thank you!
I have a Litespeed Firenze with carbon fork that I don't ride and was trying to pass forward, but is not happening.
Something is missing when riding it. The steel is real thing. Yes, my bikes are all steel ones.
Now I started thinking, how about having a steel or titanium fork for it?
I read around that titanium will be pretty expensive and a bit bulk and of course heavier than the carbon one, or go to steel one?
Heavier is fine for me - steel would add around an extra pound.
Any suggestion/thoughts?
Thank you!
That said: since millions of people, including the majority of those riding bikes with titanium frames, are happy with the ride of a carbon fork, there's some likelihood that what bothers you isn't the fork material but the fork geometry.
(I've owned dozens of high-end steel, carbon, and aluminum bikes over the last 60 years, and for the sheer pleasure of the ride, my favorite bike is the one that has oversize aluminum frame tubes and an oversize straight-blade aluminum fork. Why? Various reasons, but the main one is that the geometry is perfect for me.)
Fork geometry is a deep subject, but for me, between a fork with more offset (lower trail) and one with less offset (higher trail), I prefer less offset, because I prefer a more-stable, quicker-handling bike to the reverse. Figure out how you would like the ride of the bike to change, and get a steel fork with a geometry that would achieve that goal.
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Thanks everyone! This was a fairly old OP. To update, I got a Soma steel "track" fork, non-threaded, and have been using it for quite a while. While not light, it's not overly heavy. Really absorbs the road well. The bike rides beautifully! I recently placed a set of Stan's Alpha 400 rims on it, tubeless, and the bike just flies. I really lucked out on the frame. It's exceptionally light, the welds are simply expert, and it just rides so well. Very happy with it. On another note, I replaced the fork on an older aluminum frame that I have. It's a Kinesis straight "race" fork that I got for $99. I have to say that it's very nice. It also absorbs the road well for a straight-type style and it somewhat aero. It's about half the weight of the steel some fork. I think that it would do very well on my steel frame.