Need suggestions to find maillard hub cones for a Voyageur
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Need suggestions to find maillard hub cones for a Voyageur
I'm going through a 1987 Voyageur and the front and rear hub cones are a bit pitted and I'm wondering if anyone knows of a source for replacements. The hub races are still good. They hubs have dust caps that have a channel in them that a disk pressed onto the cone fits into. It is an early version of a "sealed" bearing I guess. Since these are 36 and 40 spoked wheels I would like to keep them for the old tourer.
I don't know if Schwinn used much of a variety of maillard hubs or if the same ones were used for LeTours, etc. of the same vintage.
Any info would be appreciated.
I don't know if Schwinn used much of a variety of maillard hubs or if the same ones were used for LeTours, etc. of the same vintage.
Any info would be appreciated.
__________________
Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride - JFK
Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride - JFK
#2
Junior Member
Resurrecting this...
did you ever find a good replacement for the hub cones? Rebuilding an ‘88 Voyageur, and in the same situation.
did you ever find a good replacement for the hub cones? Rebuilding an ‘88 Voyageur, and in the same situation.
Likes For drewfio:
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I checked at a couple old time Schwinn LBS and happened to find one at each. I’ve since sold that Voyageur but I may have a couple of used cones around. I’ll check and see what shape they are in and let you know.
__________________
Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride - JFK
Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride - JFK
#5
Junior Member
Ha, sure. Here is where I'm at so far with the bike:
And said pitted cone:
And said pitted cone:
Likes For drewfio:
#6
Junior Member
Thanks for reply! If you've got a replacement, I'd certainly be interested.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
__________________
Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride - JFK
Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride - JFK
Likes For badger_biker:
#8
Junior Member
Thanks for looking! I'll see if I can track some down to compare.
#9
Junior Member
I also found some axles which include cones on eBay after some roundabout keyword searching, that I'm wondering if the cones would be a suitable replacement. They are pricey, so I'm hoping to get a better sense before I buy. Here is the description:
And here are some more photos of what I'm hoping to replace, for reference:
THIS IS A VERY RARE ITEM TO COME BY IN MINT NEVER USED CONDITION. IT IS A VINTAGE AUTHENTIC SCHWINN FRONT HUB AXLE. YOU WILL GET 1 HUB ONLY. IT'S A FRONT QUICK RELEASE TYPE USED ON SCHWINN ROAD BIKES, RACING BIKES AND OTHERS. IT'S STAMPED SEALED ETANCHE, I TAKE SINGLE OF THEM OUT SCHWINN MAILLARD PACKET TO SELL. THE PACKAGE SAYS MAILLARD "SCHWINN" MADE IN FRANCE, THE FRONT HUB IS 4 1/4" LONG. THIS GENUINE SCHWINN MADE HUB IS IN MINT NEVER USED CONDITION.
And here are some more photos of what I'm hoping to replace, for reference:
Last edited by drewfio; 11-16-20 at 09:38 AM. Reason: added photos of what I'm replacing
#10
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 9,181
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1562 Post(s)
Liked 1,285 Times
in
856 Posts
I've said it before, but I always keep my bid prices on Schwinns of this era in check because of my full expectation that the hub cones will have left the factory sufficiently over-tight so as to almost guarantee one or more of them are pitted.
So easy to fix before the bike has miles on it, and such a pain after!
I would have thought that this type of cone would be one that Wheels Mfg would offer faithfully duplicated(?).
So easy to fix before the bike has miles on it, and such a pain after!
I would have thought that this type of cone would be one that Wheels Mfg would offer faithfully duplicated(?).
#11
Junior Member
#12
Senior Member
I'm not sure if your cones are too far gone, but you could also try this method--assuming you have some time and a drill you don't mind putting some mileage on.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...sandpaper.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...sandpaper.html
#13
Junior Member
I'm not sure if your cones are too far gone, but you could also try this method--assuming you have some time and a drill you don't mind putting some mileage on.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...sandpaper.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...sandpaper.html
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fredericksburg, Va
Posts: 9,579
Bikes: '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, '94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster, Tern Link D8
Mentioned: 73 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1607 Post(s)
Liked 2,213 Times
in
1,103 Posts
I needed one of these and gave up. It is off a Trek 610 with the 3/16 balled rear hub.
P1000288 on Flickr
P1000288 on Flickr
__________________
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
#15
Senior Member
I read that thread, and a bunch of others about the method. Seriously considering it. I'd certainly feel more confident in riding appropriate replacement cones, but it seems others have had success and gotten many miles from the resurfaced cones. I have access to a lathe, so I would not have to wear out a drill. From the photo of my cone above, looking at the depth of the pitting, do you think it might be a good candidate for this?
https://bicycleobsession.wordpress.c...ted-hub-cones/
Last edited by Headpost; 11-17-20 at 02:06 PM.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 2,812
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1105 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,326 Times
in
782 Posts
I read that thread, and a bunch of others about the method. Seriously considering it. I'd certainly feel more confident in riding appropriate replacement cones, but it seems others have had success and gotten many miles from the resurfaced cones. I have access to a lathe, so I would not have to wear out a drill. From the photo of my cone above, looking at the depth of the pitting, do you think it might be a good candidate for this?
Balls are graded for quality. Years ago, G100 was ok, G25 was expensive, now G25 is common. G25 balls have a size tolerance of plus-or-minus one ten-thousandth of an inch.
I've measured pit depth and race concentricity. A good quality race is better than I can measure for concentricity; and small but visible pits are on the order of a few tenths of thousandths of an inch. Bad pits (as above) break through the case layer, which is likely between ten and forty thousandths.
Ball and race wear are related to contact pressure. This is not an analog function; at least not a smooth one, but stepped. If one of 11 balls loses contact as it drops into a pit the pressure on the others (assuming they all *are* in contact) goes up by 9%. Grind the cone out of true by two one-thousandths and you could be running the bearing most of the time on three balls.
So those are some hard numbers to hit, and most bad cones are a long way away. Some people are sure they can essentially hold tolerances of a thousandth of an inch by hand. With a good lathe and toolpost grinder setup or a dedicated grinder you have a chance.