Splicing cables together?
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Stop over, I'll set you right up with a splice.
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These are smaller and might be a closer fit: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...2574/205887624
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I agree with you but what is there to lose? If it works (which I doubt) great. If it doesn't work, it will still be a learning process.
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These are smaller and might be a closer fit: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...2574/205887624
#32
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I tried the aluminum ferrules but I could not crimp them at all. I couldn't find any tubing that wasn't huge so I got some copper plates and folded them over the wires several times then crimped the bejesus out of them. It seems to be holding well enough and I can shift properly but it does look really stupid. It only needs to hold up a couple weeks at most and if it does break then it should not cause any problems because the stays will keep the cable from going anywhere important, I just won't be able to shift for the rest of my ride. Now I just have to find some decent handgrips that don't cost 30 bucks and figure out what shifter to order.
Dan
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some light duty lawn mowers may have a cable selection with eyes attached to pick from. Otherwise, if you run short of line, try a tackle shop & look for low test braid wire & lead split shots.
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Actually you may not need a splice per se. We mechanically fasten cables to derailleurs and brakes and ride thousands of miles.
You might be able to use a brake bolt and fit 2 shifter cables, or any bolt and nut. Add a couple of grooves, maybe a serrated washer.
John
You might be able to use a brake bolt and fit 2 shifter cables, or any bolt and nut. Add a couple of grooves, maybe a serrated washer.
John
Last edited by 70sSanO; 05-18-20 at 10:18 AM.
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Worst case bring a screwdriver to adjust the high gear stop to lift chain to a mid-range cog. Now you've got a functioning 2 speed. Need different choices? Adjust again. The TDF used to be run on single speed bikes HTFU (Said in a spirit of good will.)
Personally, if galvy cable, I would splay open the ends you want to connect, (after running the cable pieces through where they need to go) and kink the tips back on themselves (like mini grappling hooks, co-mingle them, and twist, with flat pliers, then wrap the mess together winding a single strand around to cover the splice bends and dip in flux, heat and solder.Wrap with electrical tape, wrap some bar tape around the down tube in the appropriate location, and get going on your Century.
whipping.... like with a piece of marlin line. Yeah that's what I meant about the single strand getting ound the bundle. think maybe 8-10 turns, looking like the tie around tied&soldered spokes.... (Thanks Ben, I haven't had a boat in 20 years.....)
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Last edited by Last ride 76; 05-18-20 at 10:30 AM. Reason: I hate auto correct.
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If I were doing this and could summon the patience, I'd get my best press fittings for slightly bigger diameter that the cable, splice the cable as per the video in a previous post (no I did not watch it but I assume it demonstrated a typical nautical splice) then crimp down on the splice with a couple of fittings. Now the crimp only has to force the strands to bend over/under the opposing and crossing strands, not try to keep them from sliding. Like putting a tight whipping of marlin around a rope splice.
When I say "best" press fittings, I mean the best you can com up with, not the best out there. The OPs copper might well be it and should do this job just fine.
Another approach - search for marine wire slices. Sailors have been trusting their lives to those splices as long as galvanized and steel wire have existed. A good source will also tell you the percent loss of strength of the wire at the splice. (Be aware that any splice will "settle" with the first few uses. They tighten up to a smaller diameter and lengthen in the process. Completely normal and it will mess up your first few derailleur adjusts.
Edit, that said, dedhed's got just the tool. My 12 racing sailboat was rigged completely with the telephone lineman's scaled up version of that nicopress. Sill in my shop. Still does that job simply first class.
Ben
When I say "best" press fittings, I mean the best you can com up with, not the best out there. The OPs copper might well be it and should do this job just fine.
Another approach - search for marine wire slices. Sailors have been trusting their lives to those splices as long as galvanized and steel wire have existed. A good source will also tell you the percent loss of strength of the wire at the splice. (Be aware that any splice will "settle" with the first few uses. They tighten up to a smaller diameter and lengthen in the process. Completely normal and it will mess up your first few derailleur adjusts.
Edit, that said, dedhed's got just the tool. My 12 racing sailboat was rigged completely with the telephone lineman's scaled up version of that nicopress. Sill in my shop. Still does that job simply first class.
Ben
Last edited by 79pmooney; 05-18-20 at 10:21 AM.
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Probably will outlast the other cables.
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or a little plate with 2 cable holes and hole for bolt, nut and washer 20 minutes to drill and assemble tighten and clip cables. 5 more to protect the paint and 5 to adjust the RD.
70sSanO
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Another overthunk and over-worried problem by BF (me included)
Say it WAS a brake cable. Do it carefully and test it. take it easy and check it... Mts, be MORE careful.
* I'm sorry, that avatar makes me feel a little less confident about that sanity clause...
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Last edited by Last ride 76; 05-18-20 at 11:14 AM.
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or a little plate with 2 cable holes and hole for bolt, nut and washer 20 minutes to drill and assemble tighten and clip cables. 5 more to protect the paint and 5 to adjust the RD.
70sSanO
A voice of sanity, in the wilds of BF..*
Another overthunk and over-worried problem by BF (me included)
Say it WAS a brake cable. Do it carefully and test it. take it easy and check it... Mts, be MORE careful.
* I'm sorry, that avatar makes me feel a little less confident about that sanity clause...
or a little plate with 2 cable holes and hole for bolt, nut and washer 20 minutes to drill and assemble tighten and clip cables. 5 more to protect the paint and 5 to adjust the RD.
70sSanO
A voice of sanity, in the wilds of BF..*
Another overthunk and over-worried problem by BF (me included)
Say it WAS a brake cable. Do it carefully and test it. take it easy and check it... Mts, be MORE careful.
* I'm sorry, that avatar makes me feel a little less confident about that sanity clause...
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I’ve extended galvanized shifter cables Several times. Simply by winding them around each other in a lazy spiral, then soldering.It has worked so well I’d forgotten about it and been surprised by it next time the bike got a thorough service.
I’ve also used the crimp-on sleeves for electrical work. I pick a size where the cable just will fit through double. That’s been fine too. The only emergency fix I’ve tried that failed was using a screw-on electrical cable connector.
I’ve also used the crimp-on sleeves for electrical work. I pick a size where the cable just will fit through double. That’s been fine too. The only emergency fix I’ve tried that failed was using a screw-on electrical cable connector.
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#42
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Depends on WHERE the cable broke. My shifter just broke at the hand about 0.5 in. after the nipple. Has another used shifter with plenty of good slack after the shift nipple. I'm going to splice the orig (coming from derail.) to the new-used scrap I had around ... right at the downtube. Spiral loop the the two for about 12in, 7-8 plastic cable ties and then JB weld much of that. Pictures comin' soon!
#43
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Depends on WHERE the cable broke. My shifter just broke at the hand about 0.5 in. after the nipple. Has another used shifter with plenty of good slack after the shift nipple. I'm going to splice the orig (coming from derail.) to the new-used scrap I had around ... right at the downtube. Spiral loop the the two for about 12in, 7-8 plastic cable ties and then JB weld much of that. Pictures comin' soon!
For those looking for good advice just get a new cable they are pretty cheap even a galvanized cable is going to be better than zip ties and jb-weld. However don't use galvanized cables just get a proper slick stainless cable, install it correctly and replace it when needed. Cables are important pieces and broken ones are no good and wasting time and effort and extra money to bodge it together isn't sensible unless out on the road away from a shop. Be safe out there.
#44
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For those looking for good advice just get a new cable they are pretty cheap even a galvanized cable is going to be better than zip ties and jb-weld. However don't use galvanized cables just get a proper slick stainless cable, install it correctly and replace it when needed. Cables are important pieces and broken ones are no good and wasting time and effort and extra money to bodge it together isn't sensible unless out on the road away from a shop. Be safe out there.
Look, pops .... most of us on this forum have brand new cables, in multiple qty, in our parts drawers, and other parts galore up the wazoo .... had 'em fer years.
This here thread is 'bout experimentin', thinkin' outside the box, havin' fun.
#45
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Some photos ....
Initial tests ... all equal to orig cable. Long-term ... I think JB splice will outlast the cable by decades.
Initial tests ... all equal to orig cable. Long-term ... I think JB splice will outlast the cable by decades.
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Did this out of curiosity. Piece of copper tubing from a scrapped water heater. Was crimped using a cable cutter tool. Connection was strong enough to lift a 40lb dumbbell.
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Maybe for you $5 per cable per year or maybe two years is a kingly sum but I think most folks can swing it especially if you buy coffee at a chain or artisan coffee shop or spend money on gas for short range trips or less important things like that. Obviously yes there are people out there struggling not talking about them in this case they are not here. Plus if you have money for $5-10 in JB Weld a cable is not far from that.
A bodge is meant to get you home in an emergency or to the next shop.
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now get off my lawn whipper snapper
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I don't recall the op saying that they wanted to do fun experiments with cables.