Move the brakes on drop handle...
#27
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#28
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It was more of a snarky response to the statistical 99.9% of recreational riders ride on the hoods.
And part of it was the generations of recreational riders that ride/rode downtube friction shifters.
Sorry to have confused everyone.
John
And part of it was the generations of recreational riders that ride/rode downtube friction shifters.
Sorry to have confused everyone.
John
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You want inline brakes installed on the straight part of your bars like I did to mine. Here's a pic. It's real easy to do and the Tectro's only cost about $25.US The hardest part I had was feeding the rear brake cable back through the frame. I currently live in a high tourist area with lots of traffic and pedestrians and I find the need to be in the upright position frequently and found I didn't like having to reach down for the brake all the time. This works great for me even though I prefer riding in the drops. HTH

Last edited by Bigbus; 02-20-21 at 09:41 PM.
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#30
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Yes, so the questions are: why lightweight and how light is light enough? Sure, most of the lightest bikes available are drop-bar road bikes, but there are also flat bar "fitness" bikes that are also darn light. If something like a Trek FX Sport carbon (just happens to be the first example I found) is not "light enough" for some reason, spend another $1000 and put carbon wheels on it and some race-day tires.
The other question I'd ask is: have OP ridden a drop bar bike that actually fits him and is designed for his riding style? I find that most people who say they don't want a drop bar have only experienced old bikes that are too long and low to be comfortable for the average person without a great deal of acclimation that is often not worth it. A relatively modern drop bar bike can and should be as upright and comfortable as the rider needs, even if they have poor flexibility.
In other words, if OP has an open mind, a drop bar bike might be the best solution.
The other question I'd ask is: have OP ridden a drop bar bike that actually fits him and is designed for his riding style? I find that most people who say they don't want a drop bar have only experienced old bikes that are too long and low to be comfortable for the average person without a great deal of acclimation that is often not worth it. A relatively modern drop bar bike can and should be as upright and comfortable as the rider needs, even if they have poor flexibility.
In other words, if OP has an open mind, a drop bar bike might be the best solution.
#31
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If the OP wants a drop bar road bike he should buy one. If he wants inline/interrupter brakes on the tops then he should have them installed.
Most of my braking is from the hoods, but going downhill, especially, I’m in the drops. Braking in the drops with traditional cable side pull calipers is more positive than from the hoods.
Braking from interrupter levers is more positive than from the hoods. It is quite similar to flat bar levers.
John
Most of my braking is from the hoods, but going downhill, especially, I’m in the drops. Braking in the drops with traditional cable side pull calipers is more positive than from the hoods.
Braking from interrupter levers is more positive than from the hoods. It is quite similar to flat bar levers.
John
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#32
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Braking from the top of a drop bar is nice sometimes, but it's a narrow stance that provides poor stability and no access to shifting. If OP can't stand drop bars and wants all controls on the flat part of the bar, he needs a flat bar bike.
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For lightness, i posted this on my other thread, so you may have missed that note, the reason i need a lightweight bike is because i suffer from pirformis syndrome or something else close which causes nerve pain when im moving the bike around like up the stairs or the airport. Second reason is that im a traveler fulltime so its easier and for me to move it disassembled like inside an airport or bus station and this allows me to put some other clothes inside the bag where i store my bike, the extra 8 lbs would be worth a lot when paying for luggage charges.
You didn't answer my question: how light is light enough for you? Can you put a NUMBER of a specific weight? And your budget? Lighter bikes tend to cost more. It should not be difficult to find a flat-bar road bike that's under 20 pounds if you're willing to shell out $$$ for it.
How do you feel about a bike with slightly bigger tires? 38-45mm touring/ gravel tires? If you're not totally committed to a road bike, there are lots of fairly lightweight fitness, commuter, and gravel bikes that might suit you, perhaps with some simple modifications. Swapping a drop bar for a flat bar is expensive relative to the bike.
Last edited by mack_turtle; 02-21-21 at 01:40 PM.
#34
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An awful lot of opinionated posts here!
I ride drop bars exclusively, Do half my riding on fix gears, all with regular, good brakes, levers and hoods. I have extension levers set up on one (geared) bike. They also work very well.
My strong opinion is that if you are riding with brakes, they need to be in at least a position where they are instantly available in the most down/forward hand position that will ever see use. Why? Because in panic situations, getting your hands back and up to a brake very quickly is near impossible. I've heard too many incidents of crashes where the user had good levers on his handlebar tops. Now they will never say they were in their either horns or drops and couldn't get to them but it is hard not to see the pattern. However, sliding your hands fast down to a lower brake position can happen very fast. Curve of tops to hoods. Road racers have been doing that forever. Not as good as starting at the brake, but not far off. Our weight (and instinctive deceleration if riding fix gear) means that as soon as we loosen our grip, we are sliding to the brake. We don't slide uphill!
So, do anything you want, but make me happy and put a good set of levers in that most down/forward position. Please. A fellow poster hit a truck in an intersection at the bottom of a hill using just levers on his tops. He lived and recovered but that wasn't a given. I want you around and don't want to hear stories from other sources.
I ride drop bars exclusively, Do half my riding on fix gears, all with regular, good brakes, levers and hoods. I have extension levers set up on one (geared) bike. They also work very well.
My strong opinion is that if you are riding with brakes, they need to be in at least a position where they are instantly available in the most down/forward hand position that will ever see use. Why? Because in panic situations, getting your hands back and up to a brake very quickly is near impossible. I've heard too many incidents of crashes where the user had good levers on his handlebar tops. Now they will never say they were in their either horns or drops and couldn't get to them but it is hard not to see the pattern. However, sliding your hands fast down to a lower brake position can happen very fast. Curve of tops to hoods. Road racers have been doing that forever. Not as good as starting at the brake, but not far off. Our weight (and instinctive deceleration if riding fix gear) means that as soon as we loosen our grip, we are sliding to the brake. We don't slide uphill!
So, do anything you want, but make me happy and put a good set of levers in that most down/forward position. Please. A fellow poster hit a truck in an intersection at the bottom of a hill using just levers on his tops. He lived and recovered but that wasn't a given. I want you around and don't want to hear stories from other sources.
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#35
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You didn't answer my question: how light is light enough for you? Can you put a NUMBER of a specific weight? And your budget? Lighter bikes tend to cost more. It should not be difficult to find a flat-bar road bike that's under 20 pounds if you're willing to shell out $$$ for it.
How do you feel about a bike with slightly bigger tires? 38-45mm touring/ gravel tires? If you're not totally committed to a road bike, there are lots of fairly lightweight fitness, commuter, and gravel bikes that might suit you, perhaps with some simple modifications. Swapping a drop bar for a flat bar is expensive relative to the bike.
How do you feel about a bike with slightly bigger tires? 38-45mm touring/ gravel tires? If you're not totally committed to a road bike, there are lots of fairly lightweight fitness, commuter, and gravel bikes that might suit you, perhaps with some simple modifications. Swapping a drop bar for a flat bar is expensive relative to the bike.
#36
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For lightness, i posted this on my other thread, so you may have missed that note, the reason i need a lightweight bike is because i suffer from pirformis syndrome or something else close which causes nerve pain when im moving the bike around like up the stairs or the airport. Second reason is that im a traveler fulltime so its easier and for me to move it disassembled like inside an airport or bus station and this allows me to put some other clothes inside the bag where i store my bike, the extra 8 lbs would be worth a lot when paying for luggage charges.
Of course, the other way to achieve lightness is to remove or cut the excess:

Lightness...
#37
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have you ever heard the expression "champagne taste on a beer budget"? a bike that light is easily going to cost four times or more of your budget.
crazy suggestion you can take or leave: buy an old aluminum mountain bike with a lightweight rigid fork. put some light, smooth tires on it. make sure it fits you comfortably. I worked on a neighbor's mid-'90s Cannondale the other day and it was easily under 20 pounds with a suspension fork. the fork was a OLD Manitou with elastomers instead of a spring and damper system, it it was LIGHT. if he put a few carbon fiber parts and some Rene Herse tires on it, it would be a feather-weight.
the smaller wheels and flat bar will make it easier to pack, and the fatter tires (26x1.5-1.75 should work) means the bike be be ridden confidently on dirt and gravel but still be pretty swift on pavement. it does not sound like you're racing, so the weight is more important then aerodynamics.
crazy suggestion you can take or leave: buy an old aluminum mountain bike with a lightweight rigid fork. put some light, smooth tires on it. make sure it fits you comfortably. I worked on a neighbor's mid-'90s Cannondale the other day and it was easily under 20 pounds with a suspension fork. the fork was a OLD Manitou with elastomers instead of a spring and damper system, it it was LIGHT. if he put a few carbon fiber parts and some Rene Herse tires on it, it would be a feather-weight.
the smaller wheels and flat bar will make it easier to pack, and the fatter tires (26x1.5-1.75 should work) means the bike be be ridden confidently on dirt and gravel but still be pretty swift on pavement. it does not sound like you're racing, so the weight is more important then aerodynamics.
Last edited by mack_turtle; 02-22-21 at 08:09 AM.
#38
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there are some fairly light, simple folding bikes and "minivelo" bikes available. worth considering.
it seems like you started with the wrong question. yes, you can put brake levers on the tops of a drop-bar bike, but your reason for wanted a drop bar bike is that they tend to be light. so you need to reframe your question. it sounds like your priorities are:
it seems like you started with the wrong question. yes, you can put brake levers on the tops of a drop-bar bike, but your reason for wanted a drop bar bike is that they tend to be light. so you need to reframe your question. it sounds like your priorities are:
- budget under $1,000—this leaves you with entry-level new bikes and used bikes
- lightweight and easy to transport—road bikes tend to be lighter, but that's not always true. you can get a bike that suits you and is very lightweight that is not a genuine drop-bar road bike, which might not suit your riding anyways.
- a bike that suits your riding, which is a mystery to me at the moment.
- distances
- intensity
- terrain
Last edited by mack_turtle; 02-22-21 at 10:05 AM.
#39
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Lol yes these would be good to fit inside of a piece of luggage that is not oversized, but the problem here is that they are too funny looking when they are at full size. LOL one other idea for this, i could have someone cut my current frame and install levers to allow it to detach this would be fabulous but it would need to be done by someone who is totally legit.
#40
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- a bike that suits your riding, which is a mystery to me at the moment.
- distances
- intensity
- terrain
#41
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If that bike ever forced you into a "hunched over" position—which is a bit subjective—then the bike never fit right in the first place. You probably had a frame that's too big and/or a handlebar and stem that is too long and too low. There is a wide range of ways that the human body can fit on a bicycle from sitting straight up chair-like on a beach cruiser to aero tuck on a time trial bike. Advice you find here might give you some ideas of what to look for and how to engage your proprioceptive abilities, but you need to visit some bike shops and ask a fitter some hard questions. You need to acutually ride some bikes. Asking strangers on the internet and buying a random bike is like gambling.
I still think they are plenty of old aluminum hybrids and old mountain bikes around that will suit your needs. Worth considering: a lot of touring bikes for exotic place exploring are made with 26" tires because tubes and tires for them are easier to find in less developed places.
I still think they are plenty of old aluminum hybrids and old mountain bikes around that will suit your needs. Worth considering: a lot of touring bikes for exotic place exploring are made with 26" tires because tubes and tires for them are easier to find in less developed places.
Last edited by mack_turtle; 02-23-21 at 09:08 AM.