Arthur Peabody

Or should I build a new wheel. The frame is an old (~1974) Miyata chromoly.

dedhed

Seeing as that bike would likely have started out at 120mm in 1974, and has already been cold set to 130, I'd be leery about going to 135

Steve B.

Have a shop set to 132.5 or near enough. That'll let you fit a 135

Andrew R Stewart 

I would have little qualms about spreading further but I would do so carefully with as little over setting as possible. I would also do the usual visual check of the joints and paint first. Andy

icemilkcoffee 

There are millions of 130mm hub wheels out there. Is there a particular reason why you need to jam a 135mm hub into that frame that likely started out as 120mm, and then got stretched to 126mm, and then got stretched to 130mm?

Bill Kapaun

Just remove 5mm worth of spacing on the NDS side and redish. You may have to amputate 5mm of axle if a QR.

By redishing, I'd tighten the DS nipples 1/8 Turn and get the rest of the dish by loosening the NDS nipples.
NDS will have about 2X the effect.

Geepig

I wonder if would ride anything like the original, after being stretched so far?

AlmostTrick

Going from 120 to 135 is a hack that most likely will not turn out precise and leave something to be desired. Possibly not if you're a frame builder with the proper jig and tools, but most of these cold sets are done primitive cave man style and called good simply because the hub fit in. I'd much rather run the hub width and speeds a frame was designed for than have a misaligned frame or dropouts.

Iride01 

Consider what that will do for your chain line between cassette and crankset. Also when spreading the stays you want to make certain you don't cause interference with the chain rings or end of crank arm.

Andrew R Stewart 

While I tend to agree with the assessment of the many inexperienced frame spreadings we see I will say that when most of the experienced people post and suggest a solution they are assuming the process will be done with proper mechanical manors. To exclude possible solutions in mass could be applied to far more dangerous repairs like brake cable replacements, wheel truing and flat tire repairs. Think of all the people who have been helped by those hundreds of threads that non pros have replied to. Knee jerk rejections are becoming so common these days...I should know having done nearly as much on this forum just a few days ago.

If a rear end of a steel frame is spread apart/squeezed in by a process that results in a fairly centered wheel then whether a surface plate, BB whipping post and dial indicators were employed or a 2x4, 6" ruler and the floor were used the results are the same. Andy

Nyah

Wouldn't this be difficult to do without messing up the alignment of the rear cogs with the chain?

davidad

Careful Andy, you are violating rule number 2.

AlmostTrick

I agree. Cold setting using less than ideal equipment, measuring tools and skills can result in a "fairly centered" wheel and drop outs. It also could be off pretty far and the "mechanic" doing it may not even know... causing anywhere from trivial to substantial ride or durability issues. I understand others are comfortable cold setting a frame with wood, string, garage floors or bench vise and muscle, I'm just saying I'm not. I certainly wouldn't trust one widened by a previous owner using questionable techniques either.

Andrew R Stewart 

I did not make a personal attack or use any descriptive of someone's personality. I did use "knee jerk" as a reference to the general reaction some INCLUDING ME can make. I don't think this is in violation of the rules. Andy

Andrew R Stewart 

Since it is so easy to bring along a piece of thread and a 6" ruler when checking out a used bike I don't feel that the method of attaining a centered, from being spread, rear end is of much difference. Of course if you're looking at a bike long distance than claims of condition can only be verified from their photos, but I don't think that's what we're talking about.

When I was first starting out doing this stuff I worked for a local shop that was known for being the better service focused one and one that stocked/sold much of the higher end stuff (Campy, Stronglight and Raleigh Internationals/Professionals). The boss had this rule that if your were working on Campy stuff you had to use Campy tools. We all knew this was more about public image then actual grade of results. (Of course some Campy tools were easier and more effective to use, like headset wrenches, but we also knew that some tools like screwdrivers or cable cutters had no Campy versions). It is said that a good tool in a bad mechanic's hand is worse then a bad tool in a good mechanic's hand.

I suspect we are closer to agreement then we are writing about. Andy