adamrogers2009

Next Q, and the last one for now:

Is there any compelling reason to run clinchers on the track? They are easier to mount and deal with flats; and there is more variety of clinchers available in pre-built and custom-built form.

Performance wise though, tubs will have nicer feel and be much lighter, just like on the road. Seems that as long as one is ok with dealing with glue and having somewhat less choice in models, there is no reason not to run tubulars.

Not trying to start a fight or anything with this question; just thinking about getting the pieces together for a track bike build.

Many thanks

taras0000

I run clinchers on my track bike, and have ridden them on velodromes much steeper than your typical 250m. They are only a problem if you flat, you are very likely to have the tire rolled from the rim. At pressure, you should be fine.

Tubs, if properly glued, are much easier to ride out in the event of a flat. I have safely ridden out a blowout in the middle of a points race on a flat rear tub. It was scary, but it stayed on. It was the only flat I have ever had on a track before. If you are diligent in wiping your tires, the chances of a flat are rare.

The 58mm BB drop isn't too big of a deal, especially for beginners, as they typically don't have the skill or bravery to go slow enough to really catch a pedal on the track. All a high BB does is allow you to go slower without catching a pedal, but there are riding techniques to extend your range for going slower. You will just end up using them at a slightly higher speed. A higher BB is better, but a lower on isn't necessarily a deal breaker.

gycho77

I was reading upupup and I don't understand example session.
"15 minutes easy rolling laps on an easy gear (eg 82") with a gradual windup from 30km/h up to around 40km/h if unassisted, if a motorbike is available, the windup can go up to 45-60km/h depending on the fitness and training phase, alternatively this can be done on rollers.5 mins easy noodling around the infield
One rolling acceleration for 30-50 meters
5 mins easy noodling around the infield
One flying effort, accelerating off the bank and doing 0-100 metres at pace
20 minutes rest"
Does rolling acceleration mean standing start ?
Sample training templates ? Up! Up! Up! An introduction to track sprint cycling

brawlo

No. What you're doing is activating the muscles for the later efforts without smashing them. I typically roll from about 30km/h.

gycho77

So it means I have to accelerate slowly up to 30km/h?
Sorry I am having trouble understanding

adamrogers2009

Can you please elaborate on what "slow enough" means? I assume your talking about the business-end of a sprint just before someone makes the jump. Motoring along at 30km/hr in warmup laps should be no issue I assume?

carleton

"rolling acceleration" is what some call a "rolling jump". It's a rapid acceleration from a slow-ish, rolling pace (like 15-20mph) up to a high speed, then shut it down and relax.

So, it's like a standing start...but you are rolling

carleton

Look into Tufo Tubular Clinchers. I like them. They are tubular tires with a bead installed so you can mount them to clincher rims. They are difficult to install (tight fit), but are sort of the best of both worlds with tubular feel and high pressure and easy to change like clinchers. But, they are sort of expensive and sort of heavy.

Baby Puke

If you're on track, use the banking to get you up to speed, then do your effort. If you're on the road, a little downhill is ideal.

700wheel

Does the Izu velodrome have rental bikes? If so ride a couple around the size you need and see what geometry suits you. My approach (and that of several other track riders I know) was to buy a used bike and modify it using used or low cost components. Then upgrade to a better bike as you (along with advice) figure out what bike configuration you need.

Re BB drop my previous frame was 55 mm (current frame is 45 mm) and I have had no problem riding at 19 mph on a 41-1/2 degree banking (I use 650 mm cranks and Shimano SPD-SL pedals). Crank length, tire height and pressure, crankset Q, and pedal type all affect clearance. (That said I recommend a frame with low BB drop.)

dunderhi

From my experience (250m track + 55mm drop + 172.5mm cranks + 22mm tires) slow enough is 25kph. If your crank arms are 170mm or less, you should be good on just about any track with any track bike. The two places where you are likely to tap a pedal if your are not careful is during a track stand and when you ride up to the wall for the start of a race.

If you are new to track racing you will probably need to get some formal training/experience before some tracks will allow you to ride.

ILikeParmesan

Question for you all.

I have a road bike and an indoor bike trainer. Should I:

1. Sell the road bike and trainer and use those funds to buy a track bike + rollers.

2. Keep the road bike + trainer and save up for a year to buy a track bike + rollers.

3. Wait to see how I do this season with the loaner bikes before making any decisions.

I'm not interested in racing road to be honest. However, I wouldn't mind entering my local crit over the summer just for the hell of it. I'm using a loaner bike at the local track. I would like to focus on track racing + training so I'm interested to see what everyone's opinion is here.

Thanks.

carleton

Forget rollers for now.

You will get more practical training use out of a road bike than rollers. The road bike is useful because you can't train on your track bike in the streets.

You can use the indoor trainer for your road bike or your track bike.

You can't use the loaner bikes forever at the track. Eventually, you will need your own.

Don't worry about rollers for now. A road bike, track bike, and indoor trainer are enough to take you a long way. Rollers are generally only good for warm up, cool down, some basic aerobic workouts, and fine-tuning your pedal stroke. It's sort of an advanced training tool. Sounds like you are just starting out. You probably won't need them yet.

ILikeParmesan

Sounds good, thanks. I'll stick with what I have and buy a track bike when I can.

carleton

Good luck and read through this thread. You will eventually need more than a bike to start training and/or racing: https://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycl...ack-racer.html

700wheel

The Boulder Valley Velodrome basis membership is $400 per year and includes track certification (this get you a cat 4 license upgrade in the USA) and bike/shoe rental for your first year.
Maybe your local velodrome has a similar membership.

ILikeParmesan

Thanks, I'm reading through. That's the only downside of the sport, it's expensive. I used to play rugby and all you really needed was shorts, cleats, and a mouth guard.

carleton

Wow, that's very generous! I think DLV's policy is: Pay for the certification classed (around $60) then you get to use a rental bike for the classes and up to 4 race nights afterwards.

The problem being that, with limited staff, there won't be anyone to:

- Run the bike room (check out, check in)
- Maintain the bikes (more use = more maintenance required)

Plus, the fleet bikes are generally for the kids/juniors program...at DLV.

Yeah, it's a pricey sport for sure. No doubt about that.

ILikeParmesan

There is and I'm thankful it is available. It's very generous and I'll be using the rental for the entire season. Plus I'll be a cat 4 in a few weeks.

brawlo

I used to play rugby too, and the costs before running out on the field are more now than the racing licenses for myself and my 2 kids put together. True the gear CAN cost a lot more, but there's plenty of people out there winning races on $3-400 bikes. You don't have to spend a huge amount on the sport to be good at it, but upgradeitis is a serious and detrimental-to-your-wallet affliction for cyclists!

TrackMonkey7

What on earth are those little red goozers on the left fork blade near the hub?

carleton

It's part of the electronic lap counting system. I'm not that familiar with it. But, it's mainly used in bunch races to verify lap counts (who's on the lead lap? who is a lap down? etc...)

Quinn8it

That system gives you real time lap times and 200m times- so you can log in between efforts and check your times..

Pretty cool stuff- might still be in the testing phase- not sure it's available to everyone yet

Poppit

Sport timing systems - MYLAPS Sports Timing

Pole Line Stand

Hi All,

I'm investigating timing systems to invest in for training purposes. Perhaps the most prevalent use of the timing system would be short velodrome trials, i.e. 200 meters and standing laps. I know how exorbitant some electronic timing systems can be. I did look into the Free Lap System etc. The advantages here are reasonably priced and simple to use. The disadvantages are the necessity to use a watch on the handlebar and the need to be within a short distance of the transmitter at the start. I was hoping that there is a system that uses a tape that is triggered by the wheel hitting at the start and finish.

Also, I thought I read somewhere that there is a method for timing via video recorder. However, the timer would need to be manually started.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks