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Continental GP 5000

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Old 05-25-23, 10:00 AM
  #26  
Billydog
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Originally Posted by Iride01
Their German based factories have sometime produced garbage too when things got by the quality control. Continental also has many of it's tires made in India, Indonesia and other places too.

It's not really where the tire is made. It's all about how well the owners of the Brand holds the tolerances of the manufacturing processes no matter who does the actual manufacturing. And if the quality standards aren't checked by the Brand, then the makers will do whatever they can get away with.
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Old 05-25-23, 10:19 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Billydog
Who can tell me what to expect from a pair of continental GP 5000?
I just bought a pair of continental GP 5000 for $100.
I can confidently say that you'll expect to see $100 missing from your wallet.

Other than that, it's all opinion.
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Old 05-25-23, 10:44 AM
  #28  
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They are pretty much a benchmark tyre in their class. Fast rolling, reasonably supple, good grip on dry and wet roads and slightly above average puncture resistance (for a race tyre at least).
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Old 05-25-23, 10:56 AM
  #29  
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I like 'em. Definitely a little harder to mount than other major brands, but nothing terribly difficult.

Let us know what you think after a few miles.
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Old 05-25-23, 10:58 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Bald Paul
I can confidently say that you'll expect to see $100 missing from your wallet.

Other than that, it's all opinion.

Wait, people carry cash in their wallets? Is that still a thing?
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Old 05-25-23, 11:03 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Bald Paul
I can confidently say that you'll expect to see $100 missing from your wallet.

Other than that, it's all opinion.
lol.. good one
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Old 05-25-23, 11:41 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Billydog
lol.. good one

I like this guy, he can take a joke!

Just BTW, that $100/pair price is about normal for the GP5K in case you were wondering. I think I've been paying roughly that amount since they came out, except in 2020, when you couldn't find a reasonable pair of tires anywhere.
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Old 05-25-23, 11:49 AM
  #33  
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The only thing I have found constantly irritating about them are the ones with the "natural rubber" sidewalls (I think there is actually a name for it, but escapes me at the moment). Within a fairly short time of use small strings begin to come out of the sidewall and get wrapped up in various things. I am fairly sure they now make a model with the black rubber sidewalls. Aside from this aspect Conti are a great tire and my preferred go to on my road bike.
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Old 05-25-23, 01:13 PM
  #34  
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You can expect very good wear from the non-tubeless GP5000 tires. The thickness is 2.8mm vs 2.3mm on the tubeless version. Since ca. 1mm of that is casing, the tubeless gives you about 2/3 the mileage as the tubed version. This back of the envelope calc squares with my real world experience. I used to routinely get 4,000 miles on the tubed version but cannot get 3,000 on the tubeless (I run only to the wear mark and get rid of them)

Just had to laugh at the QC comment as if someone is checking every tire against a spec. The problem with tight tires is a design issue around the last of standardization and who eats the cost of wear and tear on the molds but this should improve vastly with hookless carbon rims
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Old 05-25-23, 02:11 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Juan Foote
The only thing I have found constantly irritating about them are the ones with the "natural rubber" sidewalls (I think there is actually a name for it, but escapes me at the moment). Within a fairly short time of use small strings begin to come out of the sidewall and get wrapped up in various things. I am fairly sure they now make a model with the black rubber sidewalls. Aside from this aspect Conti are a great tire and my preferred go to on my road bike.
I’ve noticed this happening with my tan wall GP5000S TR tyres too. It’s not caused any problems but seems very odd. I just trimmed off the loose ends.
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Old 05-25-23, 10:02 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by GhostRider62
The problem with tight tires is a design issue around the last of standardization and who eats the cost of wear and tear on the molds but this should improve vastly with hookless carbon rims
Can you explain this a bit more? Are they really designing molds to make tight tires so they can make the molds last longer before they go out of spec?
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Old 05-25-23, 10:14 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by PeteHski
I’ve noticed this happening with my tan wall GP5000S TR tyres too. It’s not caused any problems but seems very odd. I just trimmed off the loose ends.
Just cleaned them out of my rear mech pulleys after disassembly.
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Old 05-25-23, 10:20 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Iride01
I say it's more technique. Way less that the rim actually has anything to do with how easy they go on.

Though if you are putting any tire on a skinny rim with a tube that's taking up the space the tire bead should be in while being installed, then yes the rim might be an issue over a wider rim with a deeper spoke channel. But still, with good technique and practice even the worst of rims are easy enough to overcome without using levers.
I say I beg to differ. I have owned several bikes with different rims and tires so I have decades of experience mounting and dismounting tires and on the Mavic rims I installed the tubed GP5000s yesterday, they were an absolute beast. I never use tire irons to mount tires, but with these it was impossible unless your thumbs have the strength of Hercules. I resorted to the irons and so far no pinching.

I have also installed tubed GPs on my Fondriest with other Mavic rims, and they were a breeze as well as the tubeless GP5000s on my newer bike. The rims do make a decided difference.
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Old 05-26-23, 01:55 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by rsbob
Just cleaned them out of my rear mech pulleys after disassembly.
I'm going to get the black ones next time and check my mech pulleys!
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Old 05-26-23, 06:13 AM
  #40  
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Won't buy the 25mm ever again. They measure only 23.5 and feel rock hard. They're fantastic on smooth pavement, but that's like 10 percent of the time around here.

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Old 05-26-23, 06:43 AM
  #41  
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I have used lots of tires over the years but keep coming back to Conti 4000 or 5000 or whatever is current at the time. The 5000 series seem more true to marked size than previous versions.

Folks do complain about difficulty mounting, but I have found them easier than many, once you learn the technique. Year ago I ran Michelin tires and they were almost impossible to put on. Conti's are way better than that, and ride better too.

It's like car tires: the first two times out you will notice every little thing. Then....it's just a tire.
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Old 05-26-23, 09:13 AM
  #42  
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Expect blisters on your thumbs when installing without levers, and to come up with new and innovative swear words.
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Old 05-26-23, 11:09 AM
  #43  
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I run the 32mm on my single-speed and they're great. Hard to mount initially as others have said, but otherwise they pretty much rock.
(Of course they're no Rene Herse, but that's a whole nuther discussion.)
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Old 05-26-23, 01:19 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa
Won't buy the 25mm ever again. They measure only 23.5 and feel rock hard. They're fantastic on smooth pavement, but that's like 10 percent of the time around here.

👎👎
Mine measure 24.8mm on Mavic Open Pro rims @90psi. Drop your tire pressure (10psi for me) and the compliance is better. I consider the Conti5000 to be the gatorskins of high end tires, which is good for people who desire that protection at the cost of suppleness. Won't be buying again. Veloflex and Vittoria are my fave, not enough miles to judge the Pirelli tires I recently purchased.
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Old 05-26-23, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by bblair
It's like car tires: the first two times out you will notice every little thing. Then....it's just a tire.
No, not in my experience.
But I do not ride road bicycles with suspension seatposts or stems or headsets or zertz inserts, etc - or gelatinous saddles.
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Old 05-26-23, 01:50 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by terrymorse
Can you explain this a bit more? Are they really designing molds to make tight tires so they can make the molds last longer before they go out of spec?

Hooked rim molds (carbon) wear out and the moulds themselves are made of different materials than hookeless. It is desirable to get the most wear as possible from a mold due to cost. Both the tire mfg and rim mfg have tolerances or ranges for their specifications. Thus, there is variation on fitment in the real world. With hookless moulds, the mandrel can be made from hard steel with better process capability resulting whereas hooked moulds have more pieces and to make the hook, part of the mould has to be flexible resulting in lower process capability irrespective of mould wear. Wider process variation (lower Cpk) makes tolerancing a challenge when trying to match an equally variable product (tires). So, what do you do? You go for safety (tightness). RH tires go on easily by hand but they also blow off. I have tried to mount Conti GP5000 on some rims and they could be mounted by hand whereas the same exact tire on another rim was an absolute nightmare. On my Firecrest 303 hookless, I do not need to use tools although they are tight, I can mount them.


In practice this means some know it all BF members could have a combination of tire/rim that is indeed not too hard to mount and another BF member could have the same rim and tire with both towards the end of spec and that is enough to make them a bear to mount.
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Old 05-26-23, 02:04 PM
  #47  
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The other thing to realize WRT Conti, is the GP5000 (tubed), GP5000 TL and GP5000 S TR are all quite different in terms of bead dimensions and strength. Apples to Oranges when it comes to mounting challenges. The GP5000 TL was "not approved" for use on Enve wheels but the GP5K S TR is Enve approved, for instance
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Old 05-26-23, 02:14 PM
  #48  
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It's always interesting to read about manufacturing processes. I've read that hookless rims are cheaper to manufacture but I haven't seen the info about hooked rim molds wearing out and causing dimensional variations. Link please?
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Old 05-27-23, 07:59 PM
  #49  
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I run 25mm and 23mm GP 5000s on my new bike and vintage bike, respectively. The new bike uses Fulcrum Racing 3 (17mm inside) wheels and the 5000s mount easier than Gatorskins. On the vintage rims these are easier to mount than Gatorskins too.
One way the rolling resistance is reduced on the 5000s and the ride smoother is the softer more flexible rubber. Unfortunately broken glass can stick a little better and it comes around and hits the brake bridge or fork crown and makes cuts deeper than usual. If you ride clean roads they last long but I have never been able to experience this due to all the mini liquor bottles discarded in the bike lanes here in San Diego. The ride so much nicer I take the risk. I got flats with gatorskins too.
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Old 05-28-23, 11:51 PM
  #50  
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Tubeless tire shot or still rideable? 3 years old with good tread.

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