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Service schedule for hobbyist

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Old 04-23-22, 12:01 PM
  #1  
gululok
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Service schedule for hobbyist

I've been learning to fix up my bike for commuting, servicing one part of my bike at a time. I'm at a point where I've gotten rid of all the weird clicks/noises, and the bike feels to be in good shape. How soon should I expect to revisit each task? I try to ride to work on most dry days, so that's most days in the summer, and maybe 1~2 days each week in the winter. 7km each way.


The list of things I've done (have I missed anything?):

- replaced break & shifter cables

(Didn't touch the headset 'cause it seems fine.)

- adjusted the breaks

- overhauled front & rear wheel hubs

- overhauled the pedals

- replaced the bottom bracket with a cartridge one
(How often were you suppose to service the old cup/cone BB? The cartridge has sealed bearings. Does that mean it doesn't need servicing?)

- replaced the chain
(How often should I deep clean the chain? Taking it off and scrubbing it in mineral spirit.)

- replaced the freewheel stack
(How do you measure wear on the gears? I replaced the freewheel stack on the lbs guy's suggestion, but the new one looks pretty similar to the old one.)

- replaced rear tire

Last edited by gululok; 04-23-22 at 12:09 PM.
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Old 04-23-22, 12:35 PM
  #2  
guy153
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There is a way to measure wear on the cassette by measuring distance between teeth, if you know what it's supposed to be. There's an extremely technical YouTube channel about this.

But I just replace the chain when it's worn (as per the chain checker tool) and then see if the new chain skips. If it does I change the cassette.

As for how often to do things just keep an eye on everything. Make sure wheels spin nicely, crank has no play, and headset isn't clonking. Replace brake pads when they look worn.

Deep clean the chain as often as you can be bothered. It doesn't do it any harm. It might last longer and be more efficient but mainly clean it because nothing beats that clean chain feeling!
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Old 04-23-22, 12:53 PM
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andrewclaus
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For a commuter, servicing the hubs once a year isn't a bad idea, more often if you cycle in a corrosive or dirty environment (say a beach boardwalk or past a cement plant). If you have time then, also service the headset. The cartridge BB should last at least 10,000 miles, if not frequently submerged in salt water.

I never remove a chain for service. When it starts making noise, I wipe it down well and lube it, then wipe it well again. That's every 3-400 miles or so where I ride.

I measure the chain fairly often, every month or so. I use the technique of measuring 12 links. I replace it at 12 1/8".
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Old 04-23-22, 02:18 PM
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Just service it when it needs it. If you ever are bored, rainy day and nothing to do then maybe disassemble something so you can clean and lube it. However I'll be willing to bet you just find clean grease in the hubs or whatever it is you are servicing.

You should make regular checks of your chain with a 12" scale or a chain checker. And some of the new dry type lubes really want you to lube more often. So 100 miles wouldn't be unusual. And some say every 50 miles. And cable pulled shifters and brakes will need some attention every year or so. That's where I'm finding electronic shifters and hydraulic brakes stand out. I haven't had to do anything to them on my more than 2 year old bike except just check the pad wear.
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Old 04-24-22, 08:35 AM
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Depending on type/model of shifters you may want to replace cables yearly. See threads on Shimano brifter cable end removal.

​​​​​​https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...no-5800-a.html
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Old 04-24-22, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by guy153
But I just replace the chain when it's worn (as per the chain checker tool) and then see if the new chain skips. If it does I change the cassette.
Or use a ruler, a much more accurate and reliable device. And yes, the way to tell if cassette cogs are worn is if a new chain skips under pedaling force. As a side note, if the skipping requires hard pedaling to trigger it, you can ride a couple of 100 miles and the new chain will no longer skip.
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Old 04-25-22, 02:43 AM
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guy153
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Originally Posted by KerryIrons
Or use a ruler, a much more accurate and reliable device. And yes, the way to tell if cassette cogs are worn is if a new chain skips under pedaling force. As a side note, if the skipping requires hard pedaling to trigger it, you can ride a couple of 100 miles and the new chain will no longer skip.
Yes I have observed this after being too lazy to change the cassette sometimes You can also just not use your favourite gear. I used to use the ruler method but the chain checker is much easier with less squinting involved.
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Old 04-25-22, 04:04 AM
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brakes, not breaks
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Old 04-25-22, 05:29 AM
  #9  
Kai Winters
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Two tools you should have is a "chain checker" and a "cassette/freewheel checker". They aren't expensive and if you are going to service your bikes they are valuable tools to own and use.
If you check your chain several times yearly you will know when it needs replacing. If you replace your chain when it is required it is possible you can get a decade or more out of a cassette/freewheel.
Some have serviced "sealed" bottom brackets but it is generally not needed unless you frequently ride in wet and gritty conditions. Thy generally last for years with normal use...not wet/gritty conditions frequently.
Storing you bike in a wet/damp location and not wiping dry after riding in wet conditions speed up and is the cause of rust/corrosion especially the chain and the cables which become stiff when using to brake/shift.
"Deep Cleaning" the chain...you say "scrubbing"...scrubbing only removes grit/grime/etc. from the outside of the chain and does little to nothing to remove grit/grime from between the plates/etc. You can use an immersion tool like the Park chain cleaner, which I use. It does a good job but IMO it should be done frequently, in gritty/dusty conditions I'll use it once a week otherwise every two weeks. You can also remove the chain and soak it in a cleaning solution and shake the container vigorously which works reasonably well. You can use an ultra-sonic cleaner which works great...don't buy a cheap one, they tend to not last long or work well. More important is to lube your cleaned chain correctly...wipe excess lube off the outside of the chain so it doesn't attract dust/grit/etc.
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