freeranger

Recovery for my broken wrist is progressing. Can get back on the '06 LeMond--orig Tiagra brake/shifter. Frt. der is not orig,& works, but a little hard to shift into big frt. ring. Any recommendation for a bottom pull road der for a 3 x 9 system with an easy. pull? Cable and lever is in good shape, had no problem before breaking the wrist. I can shift to middle ring and don't use the big ring often, so can live with it until I get my strength back, but would like to have access if possible. EDIT--I'd forgotten I have an old Tiagra front der identical to yhe one that broke. But the design was not robust and a spring tab was prone to breakage. If there is a "modern" 3x9 front der' high clamp-btm pull/btm throw, lemme know. Looks like Microshft R9 might work.

70sSanO

I’m not sure how to determine a light FD return spring since there needs to be a minimum amount of force to downshift.

But if it is only a problem going into the outer ring, I would check the high limit screw adjustment. It might be that the FD high limit screw is stopping the FD movement.

Technically you don’t need a high limit screw with STI shifters, because the STI shifters only move the FD cage so far. Back it out a bit and see if it is easier.

John

KCT1986

If you're currently using the FD-4403, which is the matching FD, don't know if there is another option that would feel lighter AND also have the proper cable pull/movement to put the cage in the ideal position for each of the chainrings.

These older, pre-11 speed Shimano road FD use a short cable pull/high leverage ratio and thus feels 'heavier.' To get a lighter feel, the leverage ratio would have to be lower. This would change the amount of cable movement needed and not position the cage in the proper with your shifters. You could try a FD from a higher tier from Shimano and that MIGHT operate smoother (FD-550x or FD-650x).

Another issue is that beyond the 4400, 5500 & 6500 line-up, many of Shimano triples changed to 52-39-30 cranks and thus the matching FD may have a slightly different inner cage shape. The inner cage is sculptured to optimize shifting and reduce the needs to trim at 'non-ideal' chain angles.

freeranger

Thx. It's a 4400 brake/shifter lever. Had a feeling that with it's age that things may have changed, and evidently have. When the orig der broke, replaced with a dif one that worked, but wasn't same as orig. Found one same as the orig. on a UK site later and bought it "just in case". Guess "just in case" is here, or I just have to give my wrist more healing time. Phys Therapist says I'm progressing faster than she thought I might. Maybe I'll develop more patience rather than change something that was working just because the wrist isn't fully recuped (yet!). Thx for confirming what I suspected but wasn't certain of. Just glad to be riding, if not at 100%!!

KCT1986

If you are using different FD currently and have a FD-440x, a trial with the 440x may POSSIBLY be beneficial. It may have a better leverage ratio or better cage shape for your chainrings.

Unfortunately, these 9 speed shifters don't have intermediate (trim) clicks between the middle and large chainring so the full throw of the lever is needed.

KerryIrons

Suggest focusing hard on the physical therapy to strengthen your wrist instead. Every case is different but you could see significant improvement in just a couple of weeks, which is about how long it might take you to sort out a new shifting system.

masi61

Have you replaced the cable & housing lately? Is the shift action stiff because the shifter grease is gummed up and needs a flush? Lastly, did you set the shifter up correctly from the start using the gauge block?

Any or all of these 3 things can help or hinder your shifting. The last one can really make the cable seem way too tight but that is from an error in setting up the shifter from the start (the cage needs to be mid-way between the granny & middle chainrings when you pull the cable taut).

freeranger

It's definitely lack of strength from breaking my wrist. All was fine before the break (2-1/2 mos. ago). Just going to take time as everything continues to heal. I'm actually ahead of where I should be (working hard at it!) Should add-don't know why I didn't do this before, but have same issue on my wife's bike. She is a small woman and has no problem shifting.

70sSanO

If it is just temporary, and you don’t mind the extra work, you can setup a bar end shifter. Leave the current STI in place and just re-route the shifter cable.

Since everything was fine before, it would seem too much of a rabbit hole trying to find a lighter spring FD.

When you are back to full strength, switch it back.

John

ShannonM

Or don't, when you realize, having never ridden anything else, that indexed front shifting is almost as dumb as integrated headsets.

--Shannon

oldbobcat

You could possibly replace the cable stop with a downtube shift lever. When I broke my wrist about 40 years ago, I was riding with the cast still on--tore the hell out of the handlebar tape, but shifting with downtube levers was cinch.