Fixie frame with vintage 126mm wheel
09-17-21, 04:32 PM
#1
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Fixie frame with vintage 126mm wheel
I've made fixies/ss out of vintage bikes, some with 120mm (5-speed) spacing, some with 126mm (6-speed) spacing. I've used flip-flop hub/wheels and I've used 6-speed wheels with a ss freewheel. But I've never had a fixie/track frame until now. Someone gave me one missing its rear wheel.
So, I'm thinking of cold-setting the frame to 126, and using an old 126mm wheel with ss freewheel. Seems reasonable with maybe a sub-optimum chainline.
Thoughts? Warnings?
So, I'm thinking of cold-setting the frame to 126, and using an old 126mm wheel with ss freewheel. Seems reasonable with maybe a sub-optimum chainline.
Thoughts? Warnings?
09-17-21, 04:40 PM
#2
Zip tie Karen
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Could you remove 3mm of spacers on each side to convert the existing wheel to 120mm? This seems a better approach in the long run.
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09-17-21, 05:26 PM
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Why on earth would you do this? 126mm freewheel hubs can be easily re-spaced to 120mm. Do it the right way, and the chainline will be better, too.
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09-17-21, 05:44 PM
#4
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well, I never would have thought of that, but duh(!) it makes sense. I will take that approach and report back. I've cold-set so many frames that that's where my mind immediately goes.
09-17-21, 10:05 PM
#5
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wait, my 126mm wheel is the standard hollow axle with skewer. If I respaced the OLD for 120mm, I'd have 3mm sticking out on each side. Wouldn't I have a clamping problem with a too-long axle? Would I have to hacksaw the axle to correctly size it? Trying to visualize before I wrench ...
09-18-21, 09:46 AM
#6
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wait, my 126mm wheel is the standard hollow axle with skewer. If I respaced the OLD for 120mm, I'd have 3mm sticking out on each side. Wouldn't I have a clamping problem with a too-long axle? Would I have to hacksaw the axle to correctly size it? Trying to visualize before I wrench ...
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10-21-21, 01:22 AM
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Yep, hacksawing the axle is what I do when respacing a hub for a shorter OLD. You don't have to cut 3mm off each side, just cut about 6mm off one side. Put a nut on the axle inboard of the part you're cutting off so that it will chase the threads when you remove it afterward.
10-21-21, 07:30 AM
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While I'm not afraid of cold-setting a frame if absolutely necessary, I'd try very hard not to if possible! There is always a chance it will end up badly.
10-21-21, 09:18 AM
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I would swap out the rear axle for a solid axle and space it to whatever you need.
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10-25-21, 06:21 PM
#10
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someone gave me a wheel that measured about 124mm. I spun on a 17T freewheel I had in my spares and squeezed it into the dropouts with little effort. It was centered between the brake caliper, and the chainline wasn't bad either. It was as easy as that. The bike felt great and the gearing is about ideal for me, 46x17.
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