Nwvlvtnr 

I have access to a machine shop at work and the machinist is often happy to take on side projects when things get slow.

Here are a few pictures of a tool holder he made in order to remove the worn out teeth from an old 50.4 Stronglight Chainring. I’ve yet to use the part but thought this may be of interest to some.

cudak888 

Perfect chainring protector for a 1X setup!

-Kurt

non-fixie 

I see candles and witches in its future.

pastorbobnlnh 

This could become an interesting side business re-cycling (sic) old-worn-out chainrings into guards, trivets, art, etc. Well done!

nlerner

Nice work! I’ve done that the old-fashioned way with knippers, bench grinder, and file:

juvela

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...an endodontist shall not be required...



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juvela

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you may wish to append this to the 5 vis appreciation discussion:

​​​​​​https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...on-thread.html


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52telecaster

I do this as well. Heck for my use I should do this to any chain ring over 50 teeth.

bulgie 

They say to a man with a hammer, everything looks like a nail. But I do have a lathe, and I still think sawing is a faster way to make these things.

I find it very fast to hacksaw, following the advice of Billy Ketchum who made this creation, "the world's lightest chainring":

I don't know how he ended up with an unbroken ring, maybe photoshop? I end up with a "closed C" because the circle is broken where the hacksaw first enters. But after that, the sawing goes amazingly fast, with pauses now and then to reposition the ring in the vise (about 5 times). I suppose it might be harder and slower for someone with less experience hacksawing (I have tons) or without a good bench vise (I have several. Ain't I special...)

Since the last time I did one, I've purchased a bandsaw*, which should make this job very much faster and easier, even faster than setting it up in the lathe. Yes the lathe leaves a precision-machined surface, but this application doesn't require precision. After cleaning up the saw marks on the belt sander, I'm left with a nice-looking part. If I wanted it even nicer, I have a scotchbrite wheel on a bench grinder, and a cloth buffing wheel if you need it even shinier than that. No one without a dial test indicator would be able to tell that it's less precise than the lathe-turned version.

*the bandsaw I got is a small portable one, often called a portaband (though that's a brand name, like kleenex or xerox, and I didn't get that brand). Meant to be hand-held, but then I got an aftermarket table that turns it into a stationary vertical bandsaw, perfect for making bashguards. But the table detaches (with an actual bike quick-release!) to let you use it in hand-held mode.

These portaband tables, purchased or DIY, are a game changer and a must-have for the tinkerer. Hot tip: also get a foot switch to turn the bandsaw on, so both hands are free to manipulate the part. Also good for safety, since if anything goes wrong it's very quick to turn off, just lift your foot. I use this bandsaw all the time now, it's like "where have you been all my life!!" I hardly ever hacksaw anything anymore. In the thread about cutting handlebars for bar-end shifters, somebody mentioned doing it with a pipe-cutter and I'm like "Fine, if you live long enough!". Bike handlebars would be literally about 5 seconds on my bandsaw — 2 sec. per cut, with 1 sec. to flip the bar over. Another 5 sec to clean up the saw marks on the belt sander, if you care, but those saw marks don't matter with barcons.

Mark B

cudak888 

What do you call the BCD on that thing?

-Kurt

gugie 

I think that would work well on a zero bike.

uncle uncle

I've been contemplating taking an tired outer chainring from a Viscount Aerospace (the iconic "circle cutout" design) and remachining it down from a 52 tooth to... well, I don't know. I'm not sure how far I could take it down, and leave enough matl. for the new teeth pattern. Sadly, I don't have a machine shop as handy to access for such things.