jamesdak 

Well now that I confirmed the Motta did need a 111mm spindle BB I figured I'd go ahead and mount all the components on it in prep for the cables and housing arriving. Turns out the BB that came on it is a 111mm one but it's weird to me. It's some kind of cartridge BB with both cups being flanged type that only tighten with a hook wrench. At first I thought someone had cobbled it together but one cup is marked left and the other right. It does seem to fit and I don't feel any play. I'm just not optimistic about it remaining tight. So I started looking to see what I have on hand. Found 3 Campagnolo cartridge 102mm ones and some replacement cups. I also found another Campagnolo 111mm cartridge one I took off of something. But weirdly it has two of the non drive cups on it, no cup with a flange for the drive side. And of course, all those 102mm cups I have don't fit on the 111mm one. I also realized that I hadn't actually measured the one that came with the 8 speed kit. It actually is the needed 111mm spindle but...british cups. Freak!

So, as happens way too often one little piece stops me. This seems to happen way to often dealing with this bikes. Time to go hunting on the internet and spending more money. Every time I think I'll build on on the cheap I wind up spending too much money. I love this hobby....

But cups on the BB that came with it look like this:



And on the drive side the shoulder on the taper on the drive side is inside the cup still. Doesn't seem right.

jamesdak 

True but a hook wrench works too. Trying to avoid buying another tool.

jamesdak 

Sooooo.... let me ask this too. If I used the one cartridge BB I have with two adjustable cups is that a real problem. Seems like it may be a way to perfectly dial in the driveline or is my thinking wrong?

unworthy1

personally I hate this "Thun style" BB (Campy or otherwise) and throw them away whenever I can.
But your choice if you chose to try to retain it...could be you'll have better luck with them but I have no love for 'em!
however in an effort to get the damn things out I invested in cheap (maybe water-jet-cut) China-made wrench (not a Park) that fits fine but is a hassle to use: must be clamped somehow to prevent slipping and making a bad designed thing even worse!
If you want to borrow it I'd be happy to ship if you paid both "to and fro", but I bet you might find it's cheaper just to buy your own wrench (or borrow from somebody closer).

Bianchigirll 

So did this BB come with the frame? What do you need for the crankset you're going to use? You're welcome to borrow my tools for postage but these days it might be cheaper to buy one

jiangshi

That's a Veloce BB for a triple, and that is the way they came. I have a NIB 115 around somewhere.

jamesdak 

The tool isn't the problem but I do appreciate the offers. I've already had it off and put it back on with a hook wrench. I just don't care for these type BB's and want to use a better one. The two 111mm I have feel buttery smooth but without just the proper cups, hence my venting post, LOL!

jdawginsc 

Maybe if you put some blue goo on there, but I think one or both of the sides might loosen perhaps from retrogression (is that the right term?)

delbiker1 

Money, money, money, regarding bikes. I try hard to spend money only on things I really need. I am so often unsuccessful at that. I get something in my head, I resist for awhile, then, one day, I think "I really want to try this", and bang, I cave. My latest is switching another bike to bar ends that will be used in friction mode. It is an Airborne Zeppelin ti that I have had to make significant changes to the contact points to be able to still ride it in comfort. It's an aggressive geometry, my spinal column, especially the cervical area, responds poorly to that. I put Porteur bars on it with 5700 brifters, They work fine but kind of get in the way of my hands. So, bar ends and crossover type brake levers, Tektro R720. I did that to my Poprad and have been very pleased with the result. Due to the friction, I can run 11 speed cassette without changing derailleurs and brakes. Now, my thought is to get a cheapo 12 speed cassette just to see if that will work, then have a 1 x 12. It really makes no sense.
James, btw, the bike has been all silver drivetrain and brakes, but after seeing the above bike with the black chain rings on it, I did that to the Zeppelin, and I really like the looks. Black bar, levers, post and saddle, pump, cable housing, rims. I find the black and silver contrasting to be eye catching. But, I am color blind, so maybe that is why I like the silver and black.

georges1

nice frame and congrats on a nice bike

SurferRosa

"Thou shalt have no ..?"

clubman 

I have the same BB in 111 but it's English. Same odd recessed taper too.

P!N20

I dunno, are you able to get anywhere near 70nm with a hook wrench on those cups? In a straight conversion, 70nm equates to far king tight.

I don't see why you can't use the adjustable cup on the drive side...try it and report back!

Nah that describes all of us. I think you mean precession.

jamesdak 

Shhhh.......

If you mind wandered as badly as mine you'd understand, LOL!

It's actually quite frustrating how difficult simple things are now, like typing coherently.

machinist42

Your "line of thinking" is not wrong.

Adjustable cups on both sides is the approach Phil has used since 1971. As they are a bit pricey, the Sugino and Suntour offerings suffice for our builds. New cartridge bearing are readily sourced and usually easily replaced. Sugino/Suntour uses aluminum cups and rings while Phil utilizes stainless it seems. Suspect Merz uses titanium.

Have never experienced any issue with adjustable cups on both sides. Don't know why all BBs aren't designed this way.


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