Is there a wrench for this?
07-26-22, 07:40 AM
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 2,698
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 866 Post(s)
Liked 1,108 Times
in
646 Posts
Originally Posted by bulgie
Yeah I thought those nuts had a nub on the backside. It may be intended to fit on the Left side of the bike ('non-drive side" for those who have trouble with right-left)
I have some nuts that are a plain cylinder with M6 thread and a 6 mm allen socket. They came with Gipiemme brake bridges, for recessed brake mounting. Not the normal "top hat" shape of brake nut though, just the cylinder without the flange. Oh right, here's a picture:
They are somewhat precious to me but I will sell one for $10 shipped in the US, if that'll help you. It'll leave me with one brake bridge without a nut, but I'm unlikely to use that bridge anyway...
One disadvantage of this type is the bolt needs to be just the right length. Too long and it fills up the allen socket; too short and you don't have enough threads engaged. A stainless bolt can be trimmed to just the right length without the cut end rusting, if that matters to you.
Dimensions 10 mm diameter, 10 mm long, 6 mm length of threads. Chrome plated.
Mark B in Seattle
I have some nuts that are a plain cylinder with M6 thread and a 6 mm allen socket. They came with Gipiemme brake bridges, for recessed brake mounting. Not the normal "top hat" shape of brake nut though, just the cylinder without the flange. Oh right, here's a picture:
They are somewhat precious to me but I will sell one for $10 shipped in the US, if that'll help you. It'll leave me with one brake bridge without a nut, but I'm unlikely to use that bridge anyway...
One disadvantage of this type is the bolt needs to be just the right length. Too long and it fills up the allen socket; too short and you don't have enough threads engaged. A stainless bolt can be trimmed to just the right length without the cut end rusting, if that matters to you.
Dimensions 10 mm diameter, 10 mm long, 6 mm length of threads. Chrome plated.
Mark B in Seattle
07-26-22, 08:51 AM
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Evanston, IL
Posts: 5,300
Bikes: many
Mentioned: 60 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1203 Post(s)
Liked 966 Times
in
531 Posts
Originally Posted by jo_lacs
+1
__________________
Contact me about helping Doug Fattic's Ukraine Bicycle Project
Contact me about helping Doug Fattic's Ukraine Bicycle Project
07-26-22, 09:01 AM
#28
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Evanston, IL
Posts: 5,300
Bikes: many
Mentioned: 60 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1203 Post(s)
Liked 966 Times
in
531 Posts
I'm still out of town (coffeeneuring at Tosi's in St Joe, MI this morning). I will disassemble things when I'm back home (on the weekend) and take pix. My guess is this was how Miyata did their seatpost binders, so it was probably a stick part of some framebuilding supply place inn the early 80s. My understanding is the Univega Super Speciale frame was in reality a Miyata something-or-other. This thought is reinforced by the comment by SurferRosa about using JB Weld to solve the same issue on a Miyata 812.
__________________
Contact me about helping Doug Fattic's Ukraine Bicycle Project
Contact me about helping Doug Fattic's Ukraine Bicycle Project
Likes For smontanaro:
07-26-22, 10:17 AM
#29
Senior Member
I have a SR Maxima that has the same binder bolt, it can be tightened with using only a allen wrench. Mine was mounted with the slotted side of the nut facing inside the seat lug. The slotted side is slightly beveled on the edge, I'm thinking that's what holds it in place while it's being tightened. Try flipping the nut, maybe it'll tighten up.
Likes For brian3069:
07-26-22, 10:19 AM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,931
Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 871 Post(s)
Liked 298 Times
in
205 Posts
I have a Miyata 1000 with that same seat post bolt. There is no slot in the frame or tab on the bolt/nut. The nut will not take an allen wrench either; so I put mine in a little plastic bag marked 'original Miyata seat post bolt" and used a quick release clamp that I had in the bin o'parts.
__________________
I hope...that all mankind will at length…have reason and sense enough to settle their differences without cutting throats. Ben Franklin
I hope...that all mankind will at length…have reason and sense enough to settle their differences without cutting throats. Ben Franklin
Likes For dweenk:
07-26-22, 11:46 AM
#31
seńor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,703
Bikes: Old school lightweights
Mentioned: 77 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2822 Post(s)
Liked 4,051 Times
in
2,150 Posts
Originally Posted by smontanaro
... reinforced by the comment by SurferRosa about using JB Weld to solve the same issue on a Miyata 812.
Likes For SurferRosa:
07-26-22, 12:17 PM
#32
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Evanston, IL
Posts: 5,300
Bikes: many
Mentioned: 60 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1203 Post(s)
Liked 966 Times
in
531 Posts
Originally Posted by SurferRosa
912!! 912!! How dare you discount my 912 (!) by 11 percent!!!
__________________
Contact me about helping Doug Fattic's Ukraine Bicycle Project
Contact me about helping Doug Fattic's Ukraine Bicycle Project
Likes For smontanaro:
07-26-22, 12:51 PM
#33
Partially Sane.
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Sunny Sacramento.
Posts: 3,545
Bikes: Soma Saga, pre-disc
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 968 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 637 Times
in
462 Posts
Originally Posted by SurferRosa
912!! 912!! How dare you discount my 912 (!) by 11 percent!!!
07-29-22, 05:48 PM
#34
seńor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,703
Bikes: Old school lightweights
Mentioned: 77 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2822 Post(s)
Liked 4,051 Times
in
2,150 Posts
Originally Posted by stardognine
11%??? Better check the batteries in your calculator.
(912-812)/912 = .109
07-29-22, 06:10 PM
#35
Partially Sane.
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Sunny Sacramento.
Posts: 3,545
Bikes: Soma Saga, pre-disc
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 968 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 637 Times
in
462 Posts
Originally Posted by SurferRosa
What am I missing?
(912-812)/912 = .109
(912-812)/912 = .109
07-29-22, 06:16 PM
#36
seńor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,703
Bikes: Old school lightweights
Mentioned: 77 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2822 Post(s)
Liked 4,051 Times
in
2,150 Posts
Originally Posted by stardognine
Well nevermind then, if you're gonna use that newfangled math, like algebra or trigonometry or whatever ya got there.
Likes For madpogue:
07-29-22, 10:18 PM
#38
Partially Sane.
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Sunny Sacramento.
Posts: 3,545
Bikes: Soma Saga, pre-disc
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 968 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 637 Times
in
462 Posts
Originally Posted by madpogue
And it doesn't help anything, when I reply to threads, as if it were a competition, sometimes. 🙄 I know I should use some restraint, but apparently I don't have enough sense to actually do so.
I'm gonna work on that. 🤐
07-30-22, 12:12 AM
#39
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 158
Bikes: '85 Le tour Luxe, Puch Mixtie, Raleigh Gran Sport, Mystery Machine
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
9 Posts
Just make your own tool from some flat stock steel. But first clean that nut-slot up with a file. Put a handle on it, or hold it with pliers. Never use a tapered blade screwdriver on a straight walled screw slot. Use a hollow ground blade. Good Luck.
07-30-22, 01:03 AM
#40
verktyg
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 4,008
Bikes: Current favorites: 1988 Peugeot Birraritz, 1984 Gitane Super Corsa, 1981 Bianchi Campione Del Mondo, 1992 Paramount OS, 1990 Bianchi Mondiale, 1988 Colnago Technos, 1985 RalieghUSA Team Pro, 1973 Holdsworth
Mentioned: 201 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1020 Post(s)
Liked 1,150 Times
in
621 Posts
Everyone is guessing about all of this c**p and how to make a bad idea work.... 
My first question is what does the other side look like? Please post a picture of the NDS and the rear of the lug.
A photo is worth more than a thousand guesses!!!
verktyg retro grouch!!! ;50;
Sorry for being so nasty...
My first question is what does the other side look like? Please post a picture of the NDS and the rear of the lug.
A photo is worth more than a thousand guesses!!!
verktyg retro grouch!!! ;50;
Sorry for being so nasty...
__________________
Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
Likes For verktyg:
07-30-22, 11:14 AM
#41
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,931
Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 871 Post(s)
Liked 298 Times
in
205 Posts
Originally Posted by brian3069
I have a SR Maxima that has the same binder bolt, it can be tightened with using only a allen wrench. Mine was mounted with the slotted side of the nut facing inside the seat lug. The slotted side is slightly beveled on the edge, I'm thinking that's what holds it in place while it's being tightened. Try flipping the nut, maybe it'll tighten up.
__________________
I hope...that all mankind will at length…have reason and sense enough to settle their differences without cutting throats. Ben Franklin
I hope...that all mankind will at length…have reason and sense enough to settle their differences without cutting throats. Ben Franklin
Last edited by dweenk; 07-30-22 at 12:14 PM.
07-30-22, 07:41 PM
#42
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 8,636
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Mentioned: 126 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1313 Post(s)
Liked 870 Times
in
614 Posts
These kind of binder arrangements are actually the best imo, mainly because the ordinary kind of 8.8- or 12.9-grade "socket head cap screw" tends to be a lot stronger than the typical, shouldered and headed "Cr-MO" binder bolt. I've never broken one!
The nut should be on the left side. And the nut (if it doesn't press-fit into the lug socket on the left side) should be fixed in place with Loctite or other adhesive.
Lastly, the seatpost slippage may be remedied by simply lubricating the bolt/nut threads, which will better convert bolt torque into clamping force, while lessening the unwanted turning force on the nut in the lug socket (so the bolt can draw up tight instead of the nut just spinning in it's bore).
The nut should be on the left side. And the nut (if it doesn't press-fit into the lug socket on the left side) should be fixed in place with Loctite or other adhesive.
Lastly, the seatpost slippage may be remedied by simply lubricating the bolt/nut threads, which will better convert bolt torque into clamping force, while lessening the unwanted turning force on the nut in the lug socket (so the bolt can draw up tight instead of the nut just spinning in it's bore).
07-31-22, 02:36 PM
#43
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Evanston, IL
Posts: 5,300
Bikes: many
Mentioned: 60 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1203 Post(s)
Liked 966 Times
in
531 Posts
I'm back from Michigan and starting to catch up on email. I spent a bit of time with the Univega this afternoon. As far as I can tell, the "ports" on the left and right side of the binder assembly are identical. Switching left-to-right won't improve things by itself. The 26.8 seatpost is a perfect fit (nice parallel slot). It doesn't slip when I can get the bolt & nut snugged up. I searched through my box of odd small wrenches and found one to modify. Aside from too much underbiking which wrecked a nice tubular, I've solved the problems with the Univega
Seatpost slot detail
Nut detail
Modified "wrench"
Seatpost slot detail
Nut detail
Modified "wrench"
__________________
Contact me about helping Doug Fattic's Ukraine Bicycle Project
Contact me about helping Doug Fattic's Ukraine Bicycle Project
Likes For smontanaro:
07-31-22, 02:57 PM
#44
Partially Sane.
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Sunny Sacramento.
Posts: 3,545
Bikes: Soma Saga, pre-disc
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 968 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 637 Times
in
462 Posts
You went all the ways to Michigan just for coffee, but refused to buy a new binder bolt? 🤔😁😉
07-31-22, 03:11 PM
#45
Junior Member
The same type of nut was used on handsaws in the 19th century and various other old machinery. Generally known as "Split nuts" Thinking about it, most binder bolts also resemble the type of saw nut that replaced split nuts starting around 1870ish. The usual answer for old tool retrogrouch equivlents is to get a wide blade screwdriver and fie or hack saw a slot for the bolt. Alternatively, spend years digging through old tool boxes at flea markers and tag sales until you find a century old one. I've done both, but the former is much quicker.
Split nut saw nuts: https://www.amazon.com/Taytools-1157.../dp/B07CJ8SGJV
saw nuts: https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Screw...79480386&psc=1
Split nut saw nuts: https://www.amazon.com/Taytools-1157.../dp/B07CJ8SGJV
saw nuts: https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Screw...79480386&psc=1
08-02-22, 12:47 PM
#46
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,931
Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 871 Post(s)
Liked 298 Times
in
205 Posts
Originally Posted by brian3069
I have a SR Maxima that has the same binder bolt, it can be tightened with using only a allen wrench. Mine was mounted with the slotted side of the nut facing inside the seat lug. The slotted side is slightly beveled on the edge, I'm thinking that's what holds it in place while it's being tightened. Try flipping the nut, maybe it'll tighten up.
__________________
I hope...that all mankind will at length…have reason and sense enough to settle their differences without cutting throats. Ben Franklin
I hope...that all mankind will at length…have reason and sense enough to settle their differences without cutting throats. Ben Franklin
08-02-22, 03:04 PM
#47
Senior Member
Originally Posted by dweenk
Would the diameter of the bolt and nut be about 13mm?
08-02-22, 08:55 PM
#48
Full Member
I've got one like that too. I don't have a tool for it, I hold a small screwdriver in one of the notches while I tighten the screw.
08-03-22, 09:37 AM
#49
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 18,123
Mentioned: 121 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2656 Post(s)
Liked 1,691 Times
in
1,243 Posts
Originally Posted by sloar
almost looks like the back part of a chainring bolt, maybe try a chainring wrench
I would flip the bolt just for grins
originally the bolt faced the drive side
lube the bolt not the slotted nut.
with the bolt away from the bike thread the bolt and nut together and check for fair threading and bolt straightness.
I am not fond of this design.
I would consider a longer bolt, bushing and a nylock nut that you can get some purchase on.
08-15-22, 11:21 PM
#50
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,123
Mentioned: 27 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 919 Post(s)
Liked 1,474 Times
in
736 Posts
Originally Posted by smontanaro
So, two questions for the assembled experts. One, what was the problem? Two, what caused it? Hint: I use a Saris Bones rack. The first to answer both questions correctly will get a small bike-related gift in the mail. 
