Mberlin74

Hi all. I’ve just joined this forum and I’m looking forward to learning lots while here.

I’m currently waiting on the delivery of a 2022 Specialized Roubaix Expert. I’ve been informed that I may also have the opportunity to pick up a Pro instead. I’ve done quite a bit of reading on the differences and I’m not all that sure that the price difference would be worth the gain in bike specs.
The pro has Fact 11r carbon vs. 10r, carbon bars vs. aluminum, Roval Alpine CL carbon wheels vs. Roval c38 carbon wheels, Force etap vs. Ultegra Di2.

These are the main differences that I can see. Do the upgrades make the Pro that much better of a bike? In your opinions, is the difference in price (about $2600 CAD more for the Pro) worth the upgraded parts and materials?

Thanks in advance

Barry2 

Having two Di2 bikes already, I’d opt for Di2 every time!

Barry

gif4445

IMO, it depends upon you, what type of riding you do and what you want. My favorite type of cycling involves multiple days, so I have to carry the appropriate gear. Carrying weight, so when I looked at frames, I was advised to go with the cheaper, heavier frame. I don't know if that was valid advice or not, just what the LBS suggested. I've never had the electronic shifting, but I contemplated such on my last purchase (Roubaix). The LBS favored SRAM, but I think it had as much to do with the ease of installation. Looking at my type of riding, I felt that the Di2 might have an edge. I believe for me, an upgrade to better carbon wheels has been worth it, but my old Roval Aluminum wheels were pretty darned good. My passion is ultra-distance, so almost any change that gets me comfortably, further down the road with the some amount of effort, is worth it. That is my motivation. It is your call if those upgrades match your cycling goals.

Ogsarg

If you are satisfied with the wheels that come on the Expert and you don't have a preference of Sram vs. Shimano, I don't see much benefit in going to the Pro. If you expect you'll want to upgrade the wheels at some point, that might be a good reason.

tomato coupe

We need to see your Strava files and tax returns for the past 3 years before we can determine if spending the extra money is worth it to you.

Iride01 

If you don't already know enough to tell the difference yourself, then perhaps it doesn't matter at all. Just pick one and ride the crap out of it and maybe you'll know and understand what any differences might mean to you for your next bike that you pick.

I'd think the fact11 frame will be lighter, or at least I'd imagine it to be lighter. However the Roubaix Pro I looked up only had a fact 10r frame as did the Roubaix Expert. The biggest difference between the two being the Pro is 12 speed eTAP AXS and the Expert is 12 speed Ultegra Di2. However the Pro did have smaller rings of 46/33 and a 10-36 rear compared to 50/34 and 11-34 rear of the Expert. So if you are new to cycling and your legs aren't strong, those smaller rings and wider ranging rear cassette might help you if you ride a lot of steep hills.

Though I might have gotten the wrong bikes to compare if there are other models variations of Pro and Expert Roubaix's.

Mberlin74

Very valid point. I guess asking if you think it’s worth it to me is a bit of a silly and unfair question to ask for the very reasons you’ve mentioned.

tomato coupe

We still want to see those tax returns.

MattTheHat 

I have almost 13,000 miles on my 2020 Roubaix Expert. Nothing wrong with the C38 wheels. I’m a Clyde and they haven’t even needed to be trued. They’re smooth, tubeless and roll very nicely. Also nothing wrong with Ultegra Di2 (11 speed). It’s been flawless.

I do prefer the carbon bars on my Creo to the alloy bars on the Roubaix. Same Hover bars, but the carbon version have a bit of flex that makes the ride more pleasant on my neck. Bars could be upgraded for about $300. I don’t personally feel there’s $2600 worth of upgrades I could make to the Expert that would be worthwhile.

Mberlin74

This is really helpful. Thanks

DaveSSS 

One big difference between sram axs and shimano is the shift levers. Sram has two and shimano needs four to do the same job. I switched from 25 years on campy and wouldn't go back to four levers. In the winter, sram is foolproof when wearing heavy gloves. I want even more gearing range and combine a shimano grx crank with 48/31 or 46/30 with a 10-36 cassette. The 48/10 top gear is the same as a 53/11 and a 46/10 is about the same as a 50/11.

scottfsmith

The 46-10 combo (4.6 gear ratio overall) is a slightly higher gear than the 50-11 (4.55) so the SRAM will have both more bottom and more top. The bottom on my Roubaix is 34-34 (1.0) and I would personally like a 33-36 option (.9) for those 10+% grades.

To me anyway none of the other differences matter much. So overall I would take the Pro. YMMV of course 😄

indyfabz

holytrousers

People confuse bicycles with cars and carry along the same consumerist mentality.

MattTheHat 

Wut?

msu2001la

The Specialized website shows Roubaix Expert and Pro using the same frame (Fact 10R). You have to step up to the S-Works Roubaix to get the Fact 11r frame.
The USD price difference between Expert and Pro is $700 ($8000 for the Expert, $8700 for the Pro). Maybe things are wildly different in the Canadian market? Or are you talking about comparing an S-Works Roubaix to a regular Roubaix?

Otherwise you seem to have highlighted the differences bertween the Expert and Pro, which (beyond drivetrain) is really just the handlebar & wheels. It also looks like the Pro is spec'd with a slightly different saddle (hollow titanium rails instead of solid titanium rails, so probably a few grams lighter).

In terms of the wheels - The Roval C38 wheels seem pretty good on paper. Carbon, 38mm depth, 1560g, tubeless 21mm internal and regular DT Swiss 350 hubs. The Roval Alpinist CL's are 200g lighter carbon and have straight pull DT Swiss 350 hubs. Retail cost difference on the wheelsets is around $600 USD ($1100 for the C38 and $1700 for the Alpinist CL's).

So, if you really want carbon bars and the fancier wheels, I'd say the Pro is a good buy if the cost difference is $8000 to $8700 (or the Canadian equivalent). I personally would choose the Expert and maybe just buy a carbon handlebar, keeping the stock alloy one around as a backup.

Beyond that, it's SRAM Force AXS 12sp vs Ultegra Di2 12sp. Both are fantastic drivetrains and I don't think I'd be unhappy with either and would value them the same.

tomato coupe

Isn't that a book? "The Man Who Mistook His Bicycle for a Car" ?

msu2001la

It seems confusing to me that you'd opt for a heavier frame to carry weight, but then go with lighter wheels.
FWIW - the Roval Alpinist CL wheels have a 275lb/125kg max weight (rider+bike+gear). I don't see a posted weight limit on the Roval C38 wheels. Both wheelsets are carbon, the C38's are just 200g heavier.

Mberlin74

Good info. Thanks.
You’re correct about the type of carbon. That was my mistake. And yes, in Canada the price difference is about $2200 to $2600 depending where you look.

So I’m assuming the biggest weight savings I’ll find will be in the wheels. I suppose something like a pair of Zipp 303 FC wheels would make a sizeable difference in weight but will also cost me another 3k. I could offset that a little by selling the stock C38’s? Just thinking out loud I guess. I value a light bike and know the Roubaix isn’t known for its light weight. So saving where I can to make up for that makes sense for me. The only thing I have to compare it to is my Scott Foil 10 which is quite light IMS. And planning on this being my last bike purchase for some time, I don’t mind spending a little more to shed some grams.

Thanks for the info

DaveSSS 

I'd take a quick look at a Yoeleo gravel frame. A Force AXS bike with zipp 303s wheels can be built for under 5k. I bought an R12 road bike in July, that arrived 9 days after ordering. I liked it so much the I ordered another frame in pearl white. That added 3 weeks to delivery time, but no extra cost. 1215 dollars for a frame, seatpost and integrated handlebars with no freight, sales tax or customs duties is a steal.
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https://www.yoeleobike.com/products/...avel-frame-g21

Mberlin74

[QUOTE=DaveSSS;22674445]I'd take a quick look at a Yoeleo gravel frame. A Force AXS bike with zipp 303s wheels can be built for under 5k. I bought an R12 road bike in July, that arrived 9 days after ordering. I liked it so much the I ordered another frame in pearl white. That added 3 weeks to delivery time, but no extra cost. 1215 dollars for a frame, seatpost and integrated handlebars with no freight, sales tax or customs duties is a steal.

Thanks. I’ll take a look

indyfabz

I can tell the difference by, inter alia, the number of wheels.

msu2001la

Zipp 303 Firecrest is a pretty sweet wheelset - 25mm internal and hookless rims, and around 1350g. I'd only go that route if you're fully committed to running tubeless and 28mm min size. They would be a great pair for a Roubaix. Those stock Roval C38's are pretty good in their own right, and you could definitely re-sell them for a solid chunk of money if you're willing to deal with that.

For $2600 difference, I don't see the value in upgrading to the Pro model, particularly if your goal is just weight savings. In fact, according to this thread on Weight Weenies, Force AXS eTap drivetrain is actually a few hundred grams heavier than Ultegra Di2, so you'd be better off buying the Ultegra model (the Expert) and just upgrading the wheels.

DaveSSS 

I read the weight weenies thread and came up with around 150 grams. For an average rider, that's 0.18% weight savings. The weenies seem to forget that a bike goes nowhere without a rider.

FWIW, I got down to 60kg this year by dropping 900 grams. My bike weighs 8kg with force and zipp 303s.
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Also consider BTLOS wheels. The WRL44 set only costs $767, plus about $150 freight. I bought some WARL29 when they offered free freight. You can ask for the rims to have no nipple access holes, so rim tape is not required.

https://btlos.com/ar-clincher-hook-less-carbon-wheels/all-road-hookless-44mm-depth-31mm-external-width-v-shape-carbon-wheelset
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Mberlin74

Other than eye candy which is of course important, but not too high on my list, does anyone consider the zipp 303 fc worth upgrading to? If I did want to sell the stock C38’s, I imagine it would be better to do it right away so I could get top dollar as they’d be brand new. If I could offset the zipps by $1000 or so from the sale of the C38’s I think I’d be happy with that.

Opinions?