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New vs. Used Cannondale?

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Old 12-08-12, 10:19 PM
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THSdrummer
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New vs. Used Cannondale?

Hello all, THSdrummer here. This is my first post, but I've been lurking for a while.

I'm getting closer to my first road bike purchase. Being a man who wants the most value-per-dollar, I'm locked in a struggle of going for a new Cannondale CAAD10 vs. a used Cannondale CAAD10. I've test ridden a few, and decided the CAAD10 is what I want.

I am curious if purchasing a used CAAD10 is good trade off for higher end components? I know I'm a new rode cyclist and won't notice a lot of difference between the 105 and Ultegra or Ultegra Di2, but being a technology student, I desire the best. I'm also hoping this bike will last me 4 to 5 years, until I've been out of college for a year or so and I can hopefully afford a new one.

Some stats and ?s to help (Just trying to cover all my bases in this post):
- 5' 10"
- 145 pounds
- Cannondale CAAD10 new (105- probably) vs. used (Ultegra? Ultegra Di2? Dura Ace? What ever I can get)
- Budget: $1500
- Does free tune-ups for life pay for itself if I went new? (Basic fitting + free lifetime tune-ups if I

The CAAD10 with 105 has been quoted at $1530, so I'd like to keep this in that price range. I've seen a few CAAD10s with Ultegra go for $1300 and upgraded wheels.

Anyway, thank you for the help. I apologize for the newbie post, but I'm just trying to do my research before I drop $1500 + money for pedals and shoes. I have been riding a bit on an 1988 Raleigh Talon mountain bike. Looking to get something I can take to the group rides soon and toe the line with in a summer or two.

Thank you!!
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Old 12-08-12, 10:23 PM
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Used = No Warranty

New bikes are more fun to ride.
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Old 12-08-12, 10:49 PM
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i'm a road bike newbie myself who was presented with a similar problem .... you state "Being a man who wants the most value-per-dollar" getting a brand name, new bike, you're losing alot of money here. I ended up getting a used full carbon tiagra 9sp bike on craigslist for 850 bux. there is a tremendous markup on bikes. don't be a sucker. if you need the brand name to feel faster go ahead. I saw some ridley icarus with tiagra on competitivecyclist for 650 on black friday...they're 750 now if you're okay with aluminum (since you're looking CAAD). I tried aluminum, ultra, carbon...they all felt the same to me. just splurge on tires that will not flat on you.
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Old 12-08-12, 11:24 PM
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One of our local bike stores has '12 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 6 (SRAM Apex) for $1500 and '12 Cannondale Supersix 5 (105) for $1700. Both carbon bikes and both would be substantial upgrades over CAAD10 105. The key is the '12 part. '12 bikes tend to be listed at substantial discount off MSRP. You might be able to get a comparable discount on a '13 bike, but it'll be harder.

There is a big difference between Ultegra and Ultegra Di2. Once you go electronic, you don't go back. (Maybe you need to put a few hundred hours on a mechanical group to truly appreciate it.) However, Di2 is out of your price range for the time being. I got a Cannondale Supersix Ultegra Di2 for $3000 on Black Friday and it was the second best deal on a brand-name carbon bike with Di2 that I've seen so far.
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Old 12-08-12, 11:27 PM
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I've heard with shimano, going up the ladder from 105 to dura ace, each component gruppo gets better and better in mechanics and weight. with sram, I've heard that it's just a weight savings from apex to force. that is, until you get to red which is fantastic. talk to your LBS about the gruppos that you are interested about and they should be able to answer any question you have. If you go to your LBS and ride the different gruppos, maybe you won't be able to tell a big difference between them. I did this and found the apex just fine for what I am doing. the sram rival and force felt similiar, but the sram red gruppo is in a class of its own.

If I were buying a road bike for the first time, I don't know if I would want to spend the kind of money for a used one and not have any warranty. it's like buying a car, buy used and you have no idea what kind of condition it is in. even with the history of the car and paperwork, you don't know for sure if it is all there. people could say that the car/bike has never been in an accident, but you don't know for certain. this is just me, but, I like new things, not used.

you could also look and maybe get super lucky on a 2012 caad10 if they are still out there and get it for cheap. and then you could upgrade the wheels with what you want.
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Old 12-08-12, 11:39 PM
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With Shimano, Ultegra is your best bang-per-buck groupset. DA just gets you lighter weight with no great increase in functionality. For the budget-minded, 105 is also pretty good. I'd not go below 105 in anything except maybe the crank, personally.
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Old 12-08-12, 11:42 PM
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I was in the same situation as you. I was considering a Specialialized Allez Apex for ~$1300 or 2012 CAAD10-105 for ~$1500. I ended up finding a 2012 CAAD10-Rival with Mavic Krysium wheels, carbon bars, etc in my size for $1500. It looked like it was in pretty much perfect condition and the owner said it was only ridden a few times.

I went with the rival since the base model along new would have been $2000 before all the nice upgrades. I've ridden it a lot since and it's been great. I've learned to do basic maintenance/fitting on my own.
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Old 12-09-12, 08:13 AM
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The last two bikes I bought were used and were at a substantial discount compared to if I'd bought new at retail. However, for a newbie, I'd be hesitant to suggest buying used if you don't have experience with bones because you could really get hosed with a problem bike. With a new bike at least you have the support from the store and could possibly even return it outright if you purchase using a credit card.

Also, 105 is excellent. I personally do not feel it is a substantial downgrade from Ultegra other than in weight and possibly the chainrings... If you keep your bike in good maintenance, you'll keep up on group rides no problem if you have the motor. Some of the fastest racers I've met ride the oldest cheapest equipment...
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Old 12-09-12, 11:07 AM
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It sounds like new is the way to go for me. I just want to be sure I have the security of the warranty covering me. I've tried digging around for a new 2012 CAAD, but I believe them to be all sold out in this area. I'll give it another dig. That $3k for a Supersix with Ultegra Di2 is a phenominal deal. A good friend of mine is looking for a new road bike running Ultegra. Wish I could've pointed him there in time.

If I could find a 2012 Supersix with 105 would anyone recommend it over the 2013 CAAD with 105? In terms of durability? Will both be able to climb, sprint, and ride for at least 5 years. I've studied CF a little, but not enough to understand the benefits or negatives other than it's lighter and much more costly.

I hadn't planned on dropping below the 105 groupset, and figured, if all goes well, I could at least upgrade the shifters and crankset in the long run.

Thanks so much, gentlemen! Thanks for not shooting me down as a newbie!
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Old 12-09-12, 11:30 AM
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Oh, give it time. Someone will shoot you down . Good luck with the purchase. I've been on the new and used side of things, I love a new bike...
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Old 12-09-12, 03:05 PM
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not sure if this is you, but some people will buy a road bike that was the cheaper model and a few months later wish they had bought the more expensive model with the better components, wheels, ext. I'm kind of like that. so, I just waited and saved the extra money to buy what I really wanted. It took another month, but I am very pleased with my Cdale SS.
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Old 12-09-12, 03:21 PM
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Ride them both and decide. I personally did not like the Supe Six as well



Originally Posted by THSdrummer
It sounds like new is the way to go for me. I just want to be sure I have the security of the warranty covering me. I've tried digging around for a new 2012 CAAD, but I believe them to be all sold out in this area. I'll give it another dig. That $3k for a Supersix with Ultegra Di2 is a phenominal deal. A good friend of mine is looking for a new road bike running Ultegra. Wish I could've pointed him there in time.

If I could find a 2012 Supersix with 105 would anyone recommend it over the 2013 CAAD with 105? In terms of durability? Will both be able to climb, sprint, and ride for at least 5 years. I've studied CF a little, but not enough to understand the benefits or negatives other than it's lighter and much more costly.

I hadn't planned on dropping below the 105 groupset, and figured, if all goes well, I could at least upgrade the shifters and crankset in the long run.

Thanks so much, gentlemen! Thanks for not shooting me down as a newbie!
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Old 12-09-12, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by bike4fun12
not sure if this is you, but some people will buy a road bike that was the cheaper model and a few months later wish they had bought the more expensive model with the better components, wheels, ext. I'm kind of like that. so, I just waited and saved the extra money to buy what I really wanted. It took another month, but I am very pleased with my Cdale SS.
This is why I decided to go with the CAAD or possibly a Supersix. I originally intended to go with the Allez, but the more and more I researched, the more I decided a Cannondale would serve me better if I just saved up a little more. If I decide to save any more, I'll be buying in the heart of cycling season though. Having played drums for 8 years and having gone through the beginner lines, mid-line equipment and now pro-line used I wasn't sure if I should apply that knowledge to bikes and save money. It seems mid-level new is the path I'll be taking.

I'll give the Super Six a try. I'll place a call to the Cannondale LBS and see if they still have any 2012s left too, though I doubt it.

Thank you everyone!
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Old 12-09-12, 06:08 PM
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i bought used, saved a bunch of money, and will take my chances on warranty and pay for service i can't do as needed. i bought a new CAAD8 with Tiagra in feb '11, and by the end of the year was ready for something new. scored a 2012 supersix with ultegra for $1200. being that its a ~3k MSRP bike, i'll take the savings up front and hope for the best
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Old 12-09-12, 08:30 PM
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As long as the frame is in good shape, used can be a great way to go. It's near impossible to damage a newish aluminum frame without the damage being readily visible upon inspection or able to be felt on a test ride. Give what you find a good thorough look over and you can score big.
as far as having a bike shop do tune ups....that's way overrated. A tune up generally consists of adjusting cables to compensate for cable stretch, something that takes five minutes to learn and ten to perform.
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Old 12-09-12, 08:46 PM
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I was just in a similar situation. Wanted a new Roubaix, was looking to spend $1500- $2k. I could get a new base model (Sora) for about 1700, even had a fitting on it. I couldn't make myself pull the trigger due to the lower line drivetrain.

Instead, I got a used bike, a custom build on a 2012 Roubaix frame. While some of the parts are not current, it has Dura Ace drivetrain, KCNC brakes, Topolino wheels, S works carbon stems and seat, Ritchey bars and more. All for slightly more than the new bike. No warranty of course, but really like the goodies.
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Old 12-09-12, 09:34 PM
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Evan938, with a deal like that, I'm sure I'd go used as well.

Originally Posted by benajah
As long as the frame is in good shape, used can be a great way to go. It's near impossible to damage a newish aluminum frame without the damage being readily visible upon inspection or able to be felt on a test ride. Give what you find a good thorough look over and you can score big.
as far as having a bike shop do tune ups....that's way overrated. A tune up generally consists of adjusting cables to compensate for cable stretch, something that takes five minutes to learn and ten to perform.
I have been watching some rear derailleur tune-up videos and it seems simple enough.

What about purchasing used of Ebay though? It wouldn't allow me to test ride it, but I could score a lot better ride.

Originally Posted by type36
I was just in a similar situation. Wanted a new Roubaix, was looking to spend $1500- $2k. I could get a new base model (Sora) for about 1700, even had a fitting on it. I couldn't make myself pull the trigger due to the lower line drivetrain.

Instead, I got a used bike, a custom build on a 2012 Roubaix frame. While some of the parts are not current, it has Dura Ace drivetrain, KCNC brakes, Topolino wheels, S works carbon stems and seat, Ritchey bars and more. All for slightly more than the new bike. No warranty of course, but really like the goodies.
I had considered the Specialized Tarmac, but the only one near my price range features Sora, which I couldn't justify spending my money on.

Did you build it? How easy/difficult was it? I've been lurking on here and Weight Weenies reading about CAAD builds. I'd love to piece something together, I'm just not sure if I could justify that for my first ride. Not to say I wouldn't be interested in it down the road, but for my first bike, I'd like to purchase something assembled. I have the slightest family connection to a LBS, but I'm not sure he'd build it for free.

This building a bike does inspire me though. I've been talking with a fellow member of a drumming forum I frequent who built up an S-Works Roubaix with SRAM Red- Black edition for considerably cheap considering the items he used.
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Old 12-09-12, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by THSdrummer
Evan938, with a deal like that, I'm sure I'd go used as well.



I have been watching some rear derailleur tune-up videos and it seems simple enough.

What about purchasing used of Ebay though? It wouldn't allow me to test ride it, but I could score a lot better ride.


Yeah tuning a bike is easy. Road bike mechanics in general is quite easy and I never get why some people seem to shy away from it.
as far as eBay, it depends. If you know what size you need, and the seller has quite a few sells before and good reviews, in large it's a good bet, but I did get screwed once on a bike. A surly pacer I bought had the three highers gears stripped in the little gears in the shifter. I asked the guy about it and he insisted it was fine, but sure enough the shifter was stripped. I was pissed but you take your chances.
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Old 12-10-12, 12:30 AM
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buy something with cheap components, and i'll sell ya my 6700 grouppo i bought a couple weeks before scoring the supersix with 6700 already on it. lol. its used, but by a cycling instructor and aside from a couple marks on the shifters, looks almost new.

otherwise, im just gonna put it all on my CAAD8 for this spring and have a nicer second bike
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Old 12-10-12, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by THSdrummer
snip...What about purchasing used of Ebay though? It wouldn't allow me to test ride it, but I could score a lot better ride....snip
I got my '97 R500T from a seller on eBay in 2007, it is a great bike. Make sure of what size frame you need and that the bike's geometry will work for you. the fit will be up to you or an LBS to sort out. I had zero problems with the purchase on eBay, the bike was very well packed and arrived quickly. The seller was a 100% positive reputation person and it came form SoCal so ice/salt corrosion on the steel parts was not a problem. eBay isn't for everyone, many bad stories about scams and crappy sellers are out there. Not sure i would still do this as I have found a great LBS here. Best of luck.

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Old 12-10-12, 09:19 AM
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I just bought my wife a sweet Cannondale cross bike. It is a CX9 with Stans Tubeless wheels, Force BB30 crank, Zipp bars and stems. It was a steal.

Anyway, you should focus less on the group than on the wheels. If you go used, you can probably get a better set of wheels. 105 and Ultegra both work the same and are very competent group sets - you will not be able to afford Di2 in your budget.

Also, consider going with a Caad 9 frame. It will be much cheaper and just a year or two older. It's still a great frameset.
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Old 12-10-12, 01:32 PM
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I think the used market is ideal for people who know what they want, know how to inspect it and know how to repair it. If you are new you will be better off buying new. There are several things to consider. First is the fit. If you have little experience on a road bike you are not going to know how it should fit and feel and may end up buying too big or too small. Now you have to sell it and start over so you've lost money and time. Used bikes may need new tires, chain, cassette, etc. If you can't discern this yourself you may end up needing to spend more once you buy it. It may also need some mechanical work or tuning and that's more money. New bikes will be fit by the shop, obviously the parts are new, and they will generally give some number of free tuneups. You also have the warranty. All of those benefits are often worth the increased cost of new over used. Once you've done enough riding to know what you like, how it should fit you can keep your eyes out for a good deal on something used.
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Old 12-10-12, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by bikerjp
I think the used market is ideal for people who know what they want, know how to inspect it and know how to repair it. If you are new you will be better off buying new...
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Old 12-10-12, 02:14 PM
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Well, I just did some calling around, and I'm shaken at what I found.

2012 SuperSix 6 for $1299
2012 SuperSix 3 for $2800 (out of my price range)
2012 CAAD10 3 for $1800 - This is the first place I'm going when I get home from college on Friday.

Otherwise,

2013 CAAD10 5 for $1530

I would consider going the Apex route, especially considering the wheel upgrade potential, but to be honest with myself, I never upgrade like I think I will. It has taken me 5 years to assemble a very very moderate cymbal collection for drums. What I buy will probably remain stock for at least 6 months.
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Old 12-10-12, 02:18 PM
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I wouldn't even have to think about it.

2012 CAAD10 3, no question about it.
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