ISO and for trade thread part 5
#5026
Senior Member
I knew I had one of those sets of shifters.
The bolt and nut you need are these:
But they're mine, and you can't have them. You CAN, however, have this copy of the nut in brass for use with a suitable screw:
(Some stuff is quick and easy if you have a lathe.)
So pm me a physical address and I'll stick it in the post.
The bolt and nut you need are these:
But they're mine, and you can't have them. You CAN, however, have this copy of the nut in brass for use with a suitable screw:
(Some stuff is quick and easy if you have a lathe.)
So pm me a physical address and I'll stick it in the post.
Gotta ask - the nut you fabricated looks to be virtually the same color as the chromed original. White brass?
#5027
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^^^^^^ Hmm, looks very brass-colored to me (shrug).....
#5028
Senior Member
Hmm, you could be right. I was looking at the machined flats, which look to me (on my screen) to be nearly the same color as chrome. But looking closer, the round "head" end of the nut seems more brass-colored. The flats may just be "washed out" by excess light and showing a false, lighter shade.
It's always hard to tell exact colors on a computer screen unless both the sender and receiver of the image are using calibrated equipment.
It's always hard to tell exact colors on a computer screen unless both the sender and receiver of the image are using calibrated equipment.
#5030
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Want single-sided (5-speed) Simplex delrin cable guide
I want a single-sided one of these:
Because after the plastic bits come off, it has two studs - both like the left one here.
With some silver-solder on the backside to make sure it stays put, and a few minutes on a lathe for the front side, the stud looks like the one on the right:
Which is now the right size and shape to mount one of those nice Simplex front mechs that otherwise need the special braze-on:
And this picture shows why I want a single, even if the other stud is removed entirely there'll still be an ugly boss remnant there:
Because after the plastic bits come off, it has two studs - both like the left one here.
With some silver-solder on the backside to make sure it stays put, and a few minutes on a lathe for the front side, the stud looks like the one on the right:
Which is now the right size and shape to mount one of those nice Simplex front mechs that otherwise need the special braze-on:
And this picture shows why I want a single, even if the other stud is removed entirely there'll still be an ugly boss remnant there:
#5031
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Wtt
Hello. Anyone interested in NOS Mavic GP4 tubular rims, 32 hole, an old rusted campagnolo clamp on front derailleur, and a NOS red benotto bar tape? For a clincher wheelset, 100 front, 126 rear, 700c. Thanks. Much appreciated.
Last edited by semroc; 07-26-22 at 03:15 PM.
#5032
Death fork? Naaaah!!
ISO Park Tool PMP-5 frame punp.
Left mine on the bed cover of my pick-up and drove off
A quick lap around the internet shows them to be discontinued and unavailable from anywhere.
Top
A quick lap around the internet shows them to be discontinued and unavailable from anywhere.
Top
__________________
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
Last edited by top506; 07-28-22 at 05:03 AM.
#5033
Mother Nature's Son
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mistake
Last edited by delbiker1; 07-27-22 at 12:26 PM. Reason: wrong
#5034
tantum vehi
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I want a single-sided one of these:
Because after the plastic bits come off, it has two studs - both like the left one here.
With some silver-solder on the backside to make sure it stays put, and a few minutes on a lathe for the front side, the stud looks like the one on the right:
Because after the plastic bits come off, it has two studs - both like the left one here.
With some silver-solder on the backside to make sure it stays put, and a few minutes on a lathe for the front side, the stud looks like the one on the right:
I may have one, but can’t remember if it has a guide on the NDS. I’ll check when I get home.
__________________
1970 Gitane TdF; 1973 Gitane TdF
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
1984 Ross Mt. Hood
1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
1991 Bridgestone RB-1
1992 Serotta Colorado TG
2015 Elephant NFE
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
1984 Ross Mt. Hood
1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
1991 Bridgestone RB-1
1992 Serotta Colorado TG
2015 Elephant NFE
#5035
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I bent the clamp so the free end bolt hole and the threaded boss were aligned, the qr centre stub went through free-end bolt hole (so it wouldn't go flying about), then put a small nut to lock against the threaded boss when it went on the stub.
Light cuts after that.
Likes For oneclick:
#5036
Banned.
Tall guy shout out - 40° Stem, high riser bars
Looking for a 50mm+ Riser Bar (~700mm wide) and about a 110-130mm Stem in both a 31.8mm. Pictures are for example. I'll use as many such stems as these as possible - it's the bane of height. I have some 6 speed Suntour 3000 Shifters, front and rear derailleur for trade, working pulls from my own Kuwahara Sage.
https://www.starbike.com/en/procraft-sl-40-stem/
https://ridetigercraft.com/aura-alloy-50mm-riser-bars/
https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/3dc...0&odnBg=ffffff
https://www.starbike.com/en/procraft-sl-40-stem/
https://ridetigercraft.com/aura-alloy-50mm-riser-bars/
https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/3dc...0&odnBg=ffffff
#5037
tantum vehi
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I silver-soldered it in place first; drilled and tapped the centre of the boss, then took the centre part of a quick-release ( a nice straight one) and mounted that in the lathe with a stub of the threaded end sticking out.
I bent the clamp so the free end bolt hole and the threaded boss were aligned, the qr centre stub went through free-end bolt hole (so it wouldn't go flying about), then put a small nut to lock against the threaded boss when it went on the stub.
Light cuts after that.
I bent the clamp so the free end bolt hole and the threaded boss were aligned, the qr centre stub went through free-end bolt hole (so it wouldn't go flying about), then put a small nut to lock against the threaded boss when it went on the stub.
Light cuts after that.
Sadly, my demultiplicateur is double sided too. But if anyone needs one…
__________________
1970 Gitane TdF; 1973 Gitane TdF
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
1984 Ross Mt. Hood
1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
1991 Bridgestone RB-1
1992 Serotta Colorado TG
2015 Elephant NFE
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
1984 Ross Mt. Hood
1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
1991 Bridgestone RB-1
1992 Serotta Colorado TG
2015 Elephant NFE
#5038
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Those hoods would be really neat to replace my worn out ones on my faithfull Cannondale CAAD4.
Do you sell these hoods and if so what would be your price?
Cheers
Do you sell these hoods and if so what would be your price?
Cheers
#5039
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If nothing comes up here, try eBay.fr
Here's one (I think).....
With the current $/€ exchange it's pretty cheap. I've had pretty good experiences getting stuff from France lately.
Here's one (I think).....
With the current $/€ exchange it's pretty cheap. I've had pretty good experiences getting stuff from France lately.
#5040
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I thunk about it first.
I knew it had to be threaded before it went in the lathe (so as to mount it on a threaded mandrel). I didn't want the riveted end spinning in the hole when it was drilled and tapped, so it had to be soldered before that.
After it was figured out it only took about 20 minutes.
I knew it had to be threaded before it went in the lathe (so as to mount it on a threaded mandrel). I didn't want the riveted end spinning in the hole when it was drilled and tapped, so it had to be soldered before that.
After it was figured out it only took about 20 minutes.
#5041
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Looking for a 50mm+ Riser Bar (~700mm wide) and about a 110-130mm Stem in both a 31.8mm. Pictures are for example. I'll use as many such stems as these as possible - it's the bane of height. I have some 6 speed Suntour 3000 Shifters, front and rear derailleur for trade, working pulls from my own Kuwahara Sage.
https://www.starbike.com/en/procraft-sl-40-stem/
https://ridetigercraft.com/aura-alloy-50mm-riser-bars/
https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/3dc...0&odnBg=ffffff
https://www.starbike.com/en/procraft-sl-40-stem/
https://ridetigercraft.com/aura-alloy-50mm-riser-bars/
https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/3dc...0&odnBg=ffffff
#5042
Full Member
Shimano stem shifter wanted
I’m poking for a Shimano stem shifter like these. Thanks
#5044
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^^^^^ Fah, I was just at my local co-op a few hours ago. Closed for the weekend, alas.
#5045
Full Member
Thanks. I really like the sleek looks of this particular one.
#5046
Stop reading my posts!
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I do believe I have a pair cause I am a fan of these "micro-ratcheting" shifters, both the stem and the DT mounts.
So let me poke thru my bins and PM me in a day or so.
So let me poke thru my bins and PM me in a day or so.
#5048
Banned.
Hello Dweenk, tnxs for the response. I definetely need the bar width (lock-on grips, seperate shifters/levers plus bar ends). 640 is going to be too narrow.
#5049
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I didn't notice that you were in Winnipeg. Shipping alone would have been too expensive for a trade. It puzzles why the US and Canada can't have nearly seamless low-cost parcel service.