galyons

Tandem newbie, just now jumping in! I recently purchased a 2002 Cannondale RT3000 tandem and have started the process of refurbing the bike. Structurally the frame, brakes, (cantilever front and back, drum on rear), and drivetrain are in very good shape with the exception of the chains, They are past due for changing. Fortunately it does not appear that the worn chains have taken a toll on the chainrings or the cassette.

The drive train is a combo of Shimano Ultegra and Deore XT. I have on order SRAM 971 for the drive and SRAM 850 for the timing. I have never used SRAM chains before, nor have I used "power links" for joining chains. I have heard good things about the SRAM chains and the ease of joining with the powerlinks. On my Cannondale road bikes I never had a chain break on a ride and replaced chains when the wear indicator said it was time. But I have helped folks repair chains on rides and reinserted pins to facilitate getting the bike going again. Never heard of anyone having problems with the chains afterward. But honestly, the last roadside surgery was over 10 years ago.

That being said, I would like to join the two 850 chain by reusing the pin removed to size the chains and then, join the sized chain with the power link. I did some online searching, but really nothing came up regarding the timing chains on a tandem. I would appreciate getting feedback, especially anyone who has used the SRAM chains.

I am excited about getting the tandem back on the road!!

Cheers,
Geary

New2Two

I have been using the quick links on the timing chains and drive chains for years without any issue. They hold up very well.

cyccommute 

Don’t reuse the pin. Just use two Powerlinks. Modern chains have pins that have had the pin mushroomed or “peened” so that they can withstand the bending during shifting better without breaking. When you push the pin out, you break that peened material off and the chain is more prone to breaking because the pin can move. This is less of a problem with the timing chain but it could still be an issue. Powerlinks make for better, stronger connections. It’s just one less thing to worry about.

Here’s what the peened part of the chain looks like after the pin has been pushed out.

galyons

Thanks, both of you, for the input. I will use the powerlinks!!

Cheers,
Geary

kaos joe

As Cycommute said, use the quick links. I've got tens of thousands of miles on both timing and drive chains on both of our tandems, one of which is a RT3000. We have never had a failure. FWIW I use Wipperman links on the drive chain because they are MUCH easier to open up when I want to remove the chain. I use the SRAM links on the timing chain which I can remove by loosening the eccentric.

galyons

Thank you. I will give them a try!! I did find the SRAM links difficult to remove unless I used tools that I probably would not have on a ride. I have thoroughly cleaned the chainrings and sprockets and replaced both chains. I have to adjust the front derailleur, as I am not getting up to the big ring. I have new brae pads on the way, the old pads are rock hard. Then I can finally take the bike for a spin!!

Cheers,
Geary

kaos joe

What is your brake setup?

Our RT3000 came with XTR V-brakes and Ultegra 9 speed STI shifters. "TravelAgent" adapters were fitted to amplify cable pull so the V-brakes would play nice with the road STI shifters. These increase the cable pull/pad travel at the expense of mechanical advantage. This spring, after breaking my arm and having the mess screwed back together, I found I lacked the grip strength to adequately squeeze the brake. So, I modified the setup and use the TravelAgents as simple pulleys, bypassing the increased pull and increasing the mechanical advantage dramatically. The brakes are now incredibly powerful, like the hydraulic disk brakes on my MTB. On the minus side, the brake pad travel is now much reduced and the pads have to be set very close to the rims. I can ONLY get away with this because my rims are very accurately trued and thus the pads don't rub. My arm is fine now but I'm going to stay with this setup as I feel the increased braking power enhances safety. If we ever break a spoke on the road, and the wheel goes out of true, it's going to be a bit of a problem......

You might consider this if your braking is not up to your satisfaction.

galyons

First ride!! Short! Solo! Still working up the wife's nerve. The cold, wet weather is not helping!! Everything is working fine. Still need some slight fine tuning on the rear brakes. I have never owned a bike with cantilever brakes, so yet, another, learning curve of tuning. I have been riding Campy gear since 2006, so I also have to adjust some of my brain/muscle memory to the Shimano way! My '86 Cannondale was early 600 SIS so it shouldn't take long. The ride is pretty much the same as my 2006 Cannondale, (Campy aside), but obviously heavier and not as agile.

We are supposed to have a couple of clear days toward the end of the week, so I will go for a longer ride after some more twiddling.

Cheers,
Geary

galyons

Mine is the same configuration. It also has a drag brake, Arai drum. Braking with the new shoes seems to be fine, at least with just me on the bike. Once I get the wife on the bike, I will have a better idea on the brake performance. But my sense is the V-brakes will be fine. I do ride in the mountains, so the drag brake will get its chance to prove itself in the spring.

Cheers,
Geary

kaos joe

If you're riding the tandem solo, be careful.......using the front brake without the weight of a rider in the back seat can lift the rear wheel off the ground and the thing can jackknife like a tractor trailer, with unfortunate results.

Enjoy the tandem and remember the stoker is always right!

cyccommute 

There are several quick link pliers that can be used on the bike. Wolf Tooth make a very nice one that is a bit expensive. It does have places to put several extra links in case you need one on the road. Clever makes one that is plastic and doesn’t have storage but is a bit lighter. I have the Wolf Tooth and have carried it for several years but I’ve never used it.

galyons

Thank you! Good guidance! The "ride" was just to check out the brakes and shifting, after the work. I have two daughters who ride. They will be my stokers while I build experience and confidence on the tandem before I get the wife on. She can ride, but is definitely not a cyclist. If she is not confident, she will be short term.

Cheers,
Geary

galyons

The BEST tool to have is the one you never HAVE to use! I have an old pair of Park pliers, but they stay in the garage bike tool box. The Wolf looks pretty cool with all of the multi-functions.

Cheers,
Geary

galyons

Having a problem with the left shifter. It will shift only 2 chains rings, S to M, but not large. I have tried all of the tricks that I know in tuning a FD. Not sure if it is my poor tuning or a bad shifter. I posted in the Mechanics forum. I got some good advice and will try this evening.

Cheers,
Geary

cyccommute 

Check your cable tension. Not being able to shift to the outer ring is most likely due to a slack cable. It’s probably not the limit screws unless you “adjusted” them.

Rick

[QUOTEIf you're riding the tandem solo, be careful.......using the front brake without the weight of a rider in the back seat can lift the rear wheel off the ground and the thing can jackknife like a tractor trailer, with unfortunate results.][/QUOTE]

I rode our Tandem solo for nearly 5 years. I have hydraulic rim brakes and can lock up both front and rear brakes. The rear end has never lifted off the ground and the stopping Power has always been better than any single bicycle. The Tandem is incredibly stable and has never jack knifed.

kaos joe

I rode our Tandem solo for nearly 5 years. I have hydraulic rim brakes and can lock up both front and rear brakes. The rear end has never lifted off the ground and the stopping Power has always been better than any single bicycle. The Tandem is incredibly stable and has never jack knifed.[/QUOTE]

Good for ya. I've only done it at very low speeds for a short distance in a parking lot etc. A very wobbly ride! I remember reading years ago about a rider who was killed in such an incident on one of the big organized rides in California. IIRC he decided to do the ride anyway after his intended stoker didn't show up to the start.

Edit....how could I forget! I used to ride my daughter to elementary school on our Burley Duet and then ride it home solo, pink handlebar streamers and all. Never happened to me either, but again, low speeds, pancake flat roads. And the Burley is a heavy beast.

Rick

I rode my daughter to elementary school in Provo Utah in the early 90s. In the winter we would stop on the way to school sometimes so I could help co-eds get there car out of the irrigation ditch. I have a Burly Bongo. It rides more stable than any single I have ever owned. I really have no idea why someone would think otherwise.

galyons

FD shifting problem solved!! New cable and housing. Refurb almost complete!!

Cheers,
Geary

Paul J

Best wishes, my wife was not a cyclist when we started riding and now we ride a couple thousand miles a year on the tandem. Something to remember as newer tandem riders, the front shifting will always need some finesses as you have two people pedaling which can over power the derailleur. We had a hard time with front shifting until we learned to make sure both of us were lightening up on the pedals when we shifted down in particular.

Leisesturm

I have a Park Tool Quick Link tool but after we moved I couldn't find mine, with a need to open a link. I Googled "open Quick Link without tools" or something similar. A number of YouTube videos came up. Try it. You will kick yourself when you realize you could have saved $13 it's so easy. The video said to use a shoelace. I used dental floss!! Even lighter!!