MikeIsOrganic

So i got a new bike a few months back, and it has tubular tires on it. unfortunately, i dont know anything about tubular tires, and now have a flat.

so a few questions:

1. is there a way to repair flats on tubular tires? i have a new tubular tire given to me that i was going to put on, but was wondering if there was a way i could repair my old one to have as a spare.

2. how the hell do you put the tire back on the wheel? after 30 minutes of trying to put the new one on i gave up and came here. getting the tire on there was hell enough, but i actually managed it twice. unfortunately the tire valve would be crooked and i cant seem to move the tire enough to straighten it out.

3. in the event of a flat on the road, what's the best thing to do? i'd imagine the glue would take longer to dry than what one would be comfortable sitting on the side of a road waiting for.

Rev.Chuck

1. They can be repaired. It involves removing the tape, finding the hole, removing the stitching at the hole, patching the tube, resewing the tire and regluing the tape. There is a guyt that will do this for about $15 a tire, but I can't remember the name, he has adds in the back of the roadie mags.
2.Install the tire on the rim with no glue and pump it up. let it sit for a few days and stretch. Now glue it on. It is a learning process.
3. If I am close to home I will just ride it flat(Go slow) When I did longer rides with tubulars, I would carry a spare, that I had glued and let dry. It would stick OK with the kind of glue I used. You could also put one on dry, You just need to be VERY careful when leaning over for a turn, so you don't roll it off.

Rincewind8

I don't know how well it works on other brands, but the Tufo tire sealant works great on Tufo tires. Just be careful, there is no way to get it out of clothing. I ruined one of my favorite t-shirts.

Chongo

Hi Mike. Tubular tire mounting and repair takes practice. After a a few times, it does get easier. Like Rev.Chuck says, pre-stretch new tires by mounting them on a rim without glue, pump them up, and leave them overnight before you mount them for actual use. Other tips are using a toestrap to hold a section of tire in place while you slip the rest of the tire on. To remove excess glue, I use WD-40. To remove tires, nylon tire levers help a lot. Also, this website has instructions for tubular repair: https://www.yellowjersey.org/tubfix.html. Good luck

zacster

To get a tight tire on the rim you need to use your toes. Put the valve stem in, work the tire on evenly up both sides to keep the valve in place. When you need to get the last bit over the rim put the wheel down on the floor with the valve at the bottom and hold the wheel down with your toes on both sides of the valve and pull the tire over the top. I think it works best if you pull the tire towards you so orient the wheel and tire that way.

Bob S.

Mike; Welcome to the site. Glad you joined.

+1 on the info above. Visit the Vintage forum, there an entire thread near the top. Good info there also.

Bob

John E

I am facing a tough decision. The 1960 Capo came with tubulars and has nearly all of its original components, but I think I'll ride it more often if I relace the wheels with clinchers.

Chongo

Clinchers would look out of place on a '60s vintage Campy-equipped bike. May get a clincher set for long rides, and keep the tubular set for short rides and for show?

freako

Repairing tubulars can be a challenge for someone who has never done it; and almost impossible to explain here without pictures and without actually showing you. Here is another site that may help explain in addition to the one someone mentioned above: https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=101

Most LBS's know how to repair tubs, see if a LBS will repair it for you but see if you can watch so you can learn how; most reputable LBS's would be more then happy to show you.

Once you learn how and practice it quite a bit it becomes almost a no brainer. Most guys ride with at least one spare tub tucked under their seat in case of a flat then they just replace the tub and repair the flatted one when they get home. In the old days their were guys who could repair a flatted tub on the road with a repair kit consisting of a needle, waxed thread, thimble, glue and a patch, but this is time comsuming, however walking a bike home would probably be worse! Most-if not all-guys carried a spare plus the patch kit in case they had more then one flat. There was a guy that use to post here named Froze that use to carry two spares plus a patch kit when he rode tubs because he always rode in remote areas and a walk home could have taken many hours. So it depends on how far your riding from home as to how much precautions you want to take.

Also keep in mind that finding tubs at an LBS are becoming increasingly difficult especially at the more modern smaller shops; also good quality tubs are expensive and don't last as long as good quality clinchers because most tubs are for racing purposes thus the rubber compound is softer for better handling, but the softer compound wears out faster. However the tub is a better riding tire then a clincher.

But as one poster mentioned the best way is to switch to clinchers so repairs are easier, and keep the tubs (but still learn how to repair them) for short show rides-if your into that.

operator

Switch to clinchers

r-dub

I just got my first tubs and have been loving them, so far. I carry a spare tire and a strip of Tufo tubby tape. The tape will allow you to do a roadside repair and get back on the bike at full speed right away...a little more expensive than wet glue, though.

John E

Circa 1960, Capo marketed two very similar models in the U.S. The Modell Campagnolo came with 27" (not 700C) clinchers, whereas the Sieger came with tubulars. All had the same Campag. drivetrain and Weinmann brakeset.

Through most of the 1970s I had two sets of wheels for my Nishiki: OEM 27" clinchers on high-flange Sunshine hubs and tubulars on Fiamme gold rims and low-flange Campag. Record hubs. As high-performance clinchers became more widely available and reliable, I saw progressively less benefit to spending time stitching tire casings, and I finally gave away the Fiamme rims and switched to 27x1" clinchers.