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Light Weight vs Aero?

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Light Weight vs Aero?

Old 10-24-22, 07:54 AM
  #76  
GhostRider62
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The pros are sheltered from the wind. Bike selection aside from being somewhat personal comes down to what will be the critical time in the race. If it is a cross wind into the gutter section, a more aero bike makes sense. On a mountain stage, 6.8 kg bike would make more sense. Nowadays, some aero bikes like the Dogma F are close to the UCI weight limit. So, why bother. Specialized killed the Venge and the Tarmac is light and aero.
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Old 10-24-22, 11:10 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by GhostRider62
It is easy.

Get your bike CdA down to 0.145 m^2 ...
How did you get your CdA down to 0.145?
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Old 10-24-22, 12:45 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by tomato coupe
How did you get your CdA down to 0.145?
I imagine he does it by reclining.
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Old 10-24-22, 12:56 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by genejockey
I imagine he does it by reclining.
I would think so. But, the entire thread is about road bikes, and it hasn't been mentioned that the very low CdA was for a recumbent. Just looking for confirmation.
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Old 10-24-22, 01:09 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by tomato coupe
I would think so. But, the entire thread is about road bikes, and it hasn't been mentioned that the very low CdA was for a recumbent. Just looking for confirmation.
I did a quick google search on "Cda of TT bikes", so I'm now an expert, and 1.45 would be REAL DAMN LOW for an upright bike.

Apparently.

It's possible I'm full of ****, and indeed it has been suggested in the past, many times. But I think I remember that Ghost62 has > 1 recumbent bike.
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Old 10-24-22, 03:03 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by Maelochs
I used to be a big Workswell fan ... I will look at Yoeleo .... but group sets have tripled in price too ...... building bikes used to be a lot of fun .....
Still is............if you're in the C & V crowd.
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Old 10-24-22, 04:00 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by seypat
Still is............if you're in the C & V crowd.
I had a lot of fun building my my 1995 Litespeed 3 different times in 6 months. In the end, I used a modern groupset, but as in home repairs, I avoided both plumbing and electricity.
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Old 11-03-22, 12:54 AM
  #83  
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These videos support the claim that aero is pretty fast. Notice that he's on a fixed gear bike flying past geared bikes being pedaled with pretty good cadences.



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Old 11-11-22, 08:01 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by circlemaker
Thanks, PeteHski. Compliance is certainly a factor worth consideration, especially at my age. Now I must consider which kind of pain I prefer: the pain of rattled bones and a sore butt from a less compliant bike, or the the pain of lactic Acidosis from fighting the wind without optimal aerodynamics. OK. I'm not being completely serious here. And your preferance for the lighter, more compliant bike is sensible. But I'm still undecided because one of the two advantages of being a smaller rider is that I can ride a very light frame without flexing it. ----- How do you like your Endurance? And how is the experience of buying direct from Canyon?
I need to repeat the advice already given: buy the bike you like most -looks, color, comfort, whatever. You will ride it more, be fitter and faster. Comfort = speed too for the enthusiast. Also they will all be "fast"
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Old 11-11-22, 08:03 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by genejockey
I had a lot of fun building my my 1995 Litespeed 3 different times in 6 months. In the end, I used a modern groupset, but as in home repairs, I avoided both plumbing and electricity.
Having several bikes with neither and one bike with both, I'll agree. Except the electrical part (Sram AXS Etap) is super easy, while the plumbing is an occasional PITA. Neither are essential.

By the way, I have my 1996 Litespeed Classic built with Sram (mechanical) 10 speed shifters and derailleurs with Dura Ace crank and calipers, which to my aging standards is super modern!
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Old 11-29-22, 12:25 PM
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I made it halfway through but I kinda wanted to throw in my 2 cents;

I started this year with a gravel bike in march and ended up deciding to do an ironman this past nov20 and finished the bike portion in 6 hours (112 miles). It was mostly flat with slight incline and probably 2500 ft of climbing. I had a hard time keeping my wattage low on the gravel bike when doing centuries leading up to the race and trying to keep up with my road bike/clip on aero and tri bike buddies even slamming my gravel bike stem and adjusting the seat forward to increase seat tube angle (at similar speeds of 18-21mph they were holding 130-150watts while i was pushing 180-220 watts to maintain the same pace). I ended up getting a used tri bike for cheap around 2 weeks before the race and lowered my wattage output by 50-60 watts.

So I did 3 x 112 mile centuries on my gravel bike (22' Trek Checkpoint SL5):
1) 112 miles, 17.7mph avg, 196 watt avg
2) 112 miles 17.8mph avg, 186 watt avg
3) 121 miles, 16.7mph avg, 173 watt avg (our ride ended up being a climb up GMR and 2600ft at mile 70+)

On the tribike Nov 20th 2022
1) 112 miles, 19.0mph avg, 171 watt avg

I tend to like to go fast on flats and I don't mind climbing too much, so I ended up selling the tri bike and getting an aero bike that can act as double duty for being a tri-bike in the future with addition of clip on aerobars although I'll have to figure that out since most aero handbars don't have clip ons for them. I ended up buying the Cannondale Systemsix 2022 aerobike and its pretty damn fast. I'd say go for the aerobike, if I wanted to be comfortable I'd probably just ride my gravel bike.
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Old 11-29-22, 03:30 PM
  #87  
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Reading your background and the riding you do, especially the steep hills, I would go lightweight bike all the way.

- People forget aero gains advertised "this many watts faster" only really matter at or above 30-40kph. Most recreational riders average below that.
- A lightweight bike is more fun to ride because it feels more nimble, agile, responsive, accelerates faster. Especially on hilly or rolling terrain.
- The biggest effect on aerodynamics is body position, then helmet, then wheels, THEN bike frame. Getting everyone to buy aero frames is pure marketing. Get yourself a slammed stem, aero helmet, aero clothing, some
35mm wheels and you are 80% of the way to being full aero anyway.
- Even with an aero bike, being a small light rider, you'll never push the absolute watts on the flats to go really fast and make the aero matter for you.

Those reasons is all you need IMO.
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Old 11-29-22, 03:38 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by maartendc
... being a small light rider, you'll never push the absolute watts on the flats to go really fast ...
What do you think is stopping the rider from going really fast?
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Old 11-29-22, 03:39 PM
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It's always funny when you're descending and pulling away from riders on nonaero bikes and kit because aero doesn't matter at the average speed of your ride.

​​​​​​The weight difference unless you're buying something super heavy is basically on the order of 250-400 grams, which isn't insignificant up a steep climb but just doesn't matter on even a shallow climb.

Last edited by Branko D; 11-29-22 at 03:44 PM.
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Old 11-29-22, 04:58 PM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by maartendc
- People forget aero gains advertised "this many watts faster" only really matter at or above 30-40kph. Most recreational riders average below that.
I think your post can be classified under #1 and #3; possibly also #5.
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Old 11-30-22, 02:25 AM
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Originally Posted by RChung
I think your post can be classified under #1 and #3; possibly also #5.
I have no idea what that means
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Old 11-30-22, 02:31 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by asgelle
What do you think is stopping the rider from going really fast?
Given a certain watts/kg, a smaller rider averages lower absolute wattage. On the flat, you need absolute wattage to overcome drag, and your lower weight doesn't help you.

This is the reason heavier riders do better at races like Paris-Roubaix and other classics, because weight doesn't matter that much on the flat, and they can push a much higher absolute wattage.

Of course it is possible the OP can do 5 watts/kg on the flat, and he would definitely benefit from an aero setup. But at 2 or 3 watts per kg and being 60 kg, you'd be doing 120 to 180 watts on the flats. That is not enough for aero to matter much.

And again, bike frame is the least important in terms of aero gains. Work on your position for free, and get a 100$ aero helmet.
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Old 11-30-22, 07:43 AM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by RChung
Almost every argument in cycling fora:
1. Only the pros need to worry about that. Are you a pro?
2. The best riders are the best because of what they do so just imitate them.
3. Things I don't care about, can't see, or can't measure aren't important.
4. Things I think are important are important, so you should care about them.
5. If I don't know how to do something, it's too complicated for anyone to know how to do.
6. I think very highly of myself/my abilities and I can't do that so you couldn't possibly do it either.

I think your post falls under #6.
Can we pin this to the top of all forums?

FWIW, #1 is arguably my pet peeve. There is apparently a quantum leap from casual coffee shop rider and TdF pro. No one could possibly find themselves somewhere between the two or have any need or desire to ride fast in the absence of a UCI license and World Tour contract.
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Old 11-30-22, 09:23 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by RChung
I think your post can be classified under #1 and #3; possibly also #5.
I see. Thanks for the helpful insight and constructive argumentation.

I will see myself out now.
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