53/39 chainrings on 110BCD crank
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#27
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The simplicity of 1x is appealing - my logic is that i rarely use the small chainring on my TT/tri bike, and if i can get 1 chainring that covers my entire range of required gearing, there's no need for anything else. A 48t front covers most flat to rolling routes without requiring me to shift the front. Now that I think about it, I also need to see what SRAM's biggest cog is - I dont recall seeing an option larger than 28t. If so, that wont work - I need a smaller gear for climbs.
Since you guys asked, I admit a large part of my desire to get rid of the FD has to do with the legacy of mechanical shifting in my head. With Di2 (and presumably, also with eTap), front shifting works very reliably and without any trim issues. So yeah, it isnt as if a double is all that bothersome. Still, as i said, there is a certain appeal about the simple elegance of 1x
TL'DR - Because SRAM, yeah
Since you guys asked, I admit a large part of my desire to get rid of the FD has to do with the legacy of mechanical shifting in my head. With Di2 (and presumably, also with eTap), front shifting works very reliably and without any trim issues. So yeah, it isnt as if a double is all that bothersome. Still, as i said, there is a certain appeal about the simple elegance of 1x
TL'DR - Because SRAM, yeah
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Yup. There's a reason the serious ones will use a 55-tooth - not only does using a larger chainring let you use a physically-larger cog with a looser bend in the chain, it also lets you use a cog one more inboard for a straighter chainline. You'd rather use an 11-2X cassette than a 12-2X cassette for a TT, even if you never use the 11-tooth. And it's not just the 'Twitchers - Froome did that as well, at least some years.
The force of friction is its coefficient multiplied by the force normal to the surface. Larger rings are a greater fraction of crank length yielding a lower multiple between pedal force and chain tension.
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The simplicity of 1x is appealing - my logic is that i rarely use the small chainring on my TT/tri bike, and if i can get 1 chainring that covers my entire range of required gearing, there's no need for anything else. A 48t front covers most flat to rolling routes without requiring me to shift the front. Now that I think about it, I also need to see what SRAM's biggest cog is - I dont recall seeing an option larger than 28t. If so, that wont work - I need a smaller gear for climbs.
Since you guys asked, I admit a large part of my desire to get rid of the FD has to do with the legacy of mechanical shifting in my head. With Di2 (and presumably, also with eTap), front shifting works very reliably and without any trim issues. So yeah, it isnt as if a double is all that bothersome. Still, as i said, there is a certain appeal about the simple elegance of 1x
TL'DR - Because SRAM, yeah
Since you guys asked, I admit a large part of my desire to get rid of the FD has to do with the legacy of mechanical shifting in my head. With Di2 (and presumably, also with eTap), front shifting works very reliably and without any trim issues. So yeah, it isnt as if a double is all that bothersome. Still, as i said, there is a certain appeal about the simple elegance of 1x
TL'DR - Because SRAM, yeah
Shimano front derailleurs work well, and TT bikes use friction shifters for the front, so trimming isn't an issue..
#30
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[QUOTE=noodle soup;21291210]On a TT bike, I want 1 tooth spacing on the cassette(an 11-21t 10speed cassette), and 54/42 chainrings. I never use the small ring in an event, but it's there if needed.
Shimano front derailleurs work well, and TT bikes use friction shifters for the front, so trimming isn't an issue..[/QUOTE
I've never been as fussed about needing closely-spaced cogs as so many people here, actually. Am more concerned about low gearing, especially for triathlons.
Also am never going back to mechanical shifting on a TT bike. Been 5 years using Di2 on my Shiv, and am in the process of converting my wife's Shiv to Di2 as well. Even with friction shifting, it is still a bit of a pain. But yeah, with electronic shifting, switching the front is almost as easy as switching the rear.
Shimano front derailleurs work well, and TT bikes use friction shifters for the front, so trimming isn't an issue..[/QUOTE
I've never been as fussed about needing closely-spaced cogs as so many people here, actually. Am more concerned about low gearing, especially for triathlons.
Also am never going back to mechanical shifting on a TT bike. Been 5 years using Di2 on my Shiv, and am in the process of converting my wife's Shiv to Di2 as well. Even with friction shifting, it is still a bit of a pain. But yeah, with electronic shifting, switching the front is almost as easy as switching the rear.
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I am currently running 53/38 on a 110BCD, I am on Rotor rings which don't do a 39 instead do a 38. The main thing you need to look for is a front ring that is solid like Rotor or Sram. I vote Rotor since sram is sram haha
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