Does SRAM eat cables like Shimano?
02-03-19, 11:00 AM
#1
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Does SRAM eat cables like Shimano?
Just like the title says. I currently have Ultegra 6800 but am thinking about replacing it. It has served me well, but I hate having to change shift cables every 2k miles, which is about every 3 months for me.
I’ve heard SRAM Red/Force doesn’t have this problem and was curious on actual experiences.
Yes, I know electronic would solve it completely but I’m still not sure if it’s something that I actually want and I for sure know it’s not something that I need.
I’ve heard SRAM Red/Force doesn’t have this problem and was curious on actual experiences.
Yes, I know electronic would solve it completely but I’m still not sure if it’s something that I actually want and I for sure know it’s not something that I need.
02-03-19, 11:19 AM
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About the same. Yokozuna, Alligator and Power Cordz are your alternatives.
02-03-19, 01:20 PM
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Force 22 here. The only issue I've had in close to 7k miles is my FD cable blew out of it's housing in the curve between where it came out of the bar wrap and before it ran into the frame at close to 6k.
I replaced both cables and housings with Jagwire, so we'll see how well that lasts.
I replaced both cables and housings with Jagwire, so we'll see how well that lasts.
02-03-19, 03:15 PM
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I have never had an issue with Shimano cables failing after only a couple thousand miles.One of my bikes has cables that are at least 10 years old with over 10,000 miles.
02-03-19, 04:00 PM
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I agree that 2K sounds short for cable life. I check mine by pulling the housing out of one of the cable stops and then pushing the cable so I can see the end come out of the shifter. If there is any severe kink or broken strands, I replace. I usually get 3-4 years on rear cables (I ride 2-3K miles/year) with Shimano 5600 and now 5700, and change the front while I am at it. I think I shift a fair amount (I ride mostly in pretty hilly areas).
02-03-19, 04:04 PM
#8
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Interesting. I was told that Shimano stuff destroys cables and so I’ve just been doing it from a preventative standpoint. It’s bizarre because I’ll here people on here who have like 8k miles on theirs and also see guys who have them frayed inside the shifter at 2.
02-03-19, 06:12 PM
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Electronic and don’t look back.
I mean, if you are going to change the entire drivetrain from one brand to another then why not?
I mean, if you are going to change the entire drivetrain from one brand to another then why not?
02-03-19, 06:51 PM
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The issue seems to be only with Shimano 11-speed. I believe the shifter drums are smaller which fatigues the cable. Doesn't seem an issue with 9 and 10 speeds which explains 10 y.o. cables. The pros out there who take these things apart can correct me if I'm wrong.
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02-03-19, 06:58 PM
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Sram eTap with Jagwire Elite Link brake cables. over 12,000 miles and haven't needed to replace them yet.
02-03-19, 07:10 PM
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02-03-19, 07:26 PM
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SRAM won't chew cables like Shimano because they use a longer cable pull facilitated by a larger diameter spool.
And yeah, the fraying is due to the fatigue of the cable being fed out and taken up during shifting, so it won't correlate very well to mileage. Hills, wind, and closer gears will all make it happen sooner. Not to mention a preference for a narrow cadence range.
AFAIK, all Shimano shifters except probably Dyna-sys are susceptible to this issue; certainly STIs going back to 8s. It's most likely to happen on 11s though, since the gears are likely to be closer.
And yeah, the fraying is due to the fatigue of the cable being fed out and taken up during shifting, so it won't correlate very well to mileage. Hills, wind, and closer gears will all make it happen sooner. Not to mention a preference for a narrow cadence range.
AFAIK, all Shimano shifters except probably Dyna-sys are susceptible to this issue; certainly STIs going back to 8s. It's most likely to happen on 11s though, since the gears are likely to be closer.
02-04-19, 12:06 AM
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The issue seems to be only with Shimano 11-speed. I believe the shifter drums are smaller which fatigues the cable. Doesn't seem an issue with 9 and 10 speeds which explains 10 y.o. cables. The pros out there who take these things apart can correct me if I'm wrong.
I also think it's an issue across the STI range, not just 11 speed.
02-04-19, 08:36 AM
#18
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So I started just window shopping for the heck of it at some etap kits. I can’t beleive how much they have gone down in price since the new 12 speed stuff has been spotted. A little over 1000 bucks for shifters and derailleurs. I just have think about if buying it from eBay is a wise decision.
02-04-19, 10:46 AM
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I think only the 6800/5800 generation "ate" cables due to the unusually tight 90 degree bend that the cables have to route through in the shifter.
02-04-19, 12:03 PM
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I know that some people don't have this problem, so I imagine some of the shifters of any given generation have the problem and some don't.
02-04-19, 12:29 PM
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I've had no problems with cables on either 9 or 10 speed Shimano Ultegra. My cassettes have needed replacement before my cables. Which probably means I don't change cables often enough, but still.
I use Jagwire and Alligator.
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02-04-19, 12:49 PM
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No they don't
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02-04-19, 12:52 PM
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As for which ones "eat cables" - all the good ones even up to this day. You haven't lived until you've done brain surgery on a Trek Madone right before a race because the Shimano cable was starting to give way.
It's a known issue throughout the lineup. Completely avoided if you change you cables often.
It's a known issue throughout the lineup. Completely avoided if you change you cables often.
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02-04-19, 01:15 PM
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So far no problems with my Campagnolo Super Record (1st gen 11 speed) shifters eating cables. And, I think I could access the cable head, but haven't had to dig one out yet.
I replaced my right cables due to other issues, and don't remember any significant wear around the cable head (over 10K miles?)
Thinking about cables... I had a slide-in battery in my cell phone that was stuck. What I ended up doing was super-gluing a tie wrap to the battery, and it just pulled it right out. I wonder if something similar could be done with the Shimano cables.
I had a cheap import cable head pop off while adjusting an Ultegra 9s brifter. The head just vanished, and I put on another cable and counted my blessings it happened at home.
Time for a few bike tune-ups.
For @BluFalconActual, what I'd encourage you to do is go by condition. If you replace a cable and it looks pristine, then go a little longer next time.
If you replace a cable with 1 or 2 broken strands, then you're probably about right.
I tend to buy spare stainless cables, bulk > 10 at a time, E-Bay??? About $1 each. I've started grinding Shimano cables for use with Campy shifters. For some reason I'm having troubles finding the Campy shift cables at a price that I like.
I replaced my right cables due to other issues, and don't remember any significant wear around the cable head (over 10K miles?)
Thinking about cables... I had a slide-in battery in my cell phone that was stuck. What I ended up doing was super-gluing a tie wrap to the battery, and it just pulled it right out. I wonder if something similar could be done with the Shimano cables.
I had a cheap import cable head pop off while adjusting an Ultegra 9s brifter. The head just vanished, and I put on another cable and counted my blessings it happened at home.
Time for a few bike tune-ups.
For @BluFalconActual, what I'd encourage you to do is go by condition. If you replace a cable and it looks pristine, then go a little longer next time.
If you replace a cable with 1 or 2 broken strands, then you're probably about right.
I tend to buy spare stainless cables, bulk > 10 at a time, E-Bay??? About $1 each. I've started grinding Shimano cables for use with Campy shifters. For some reason I'm having troubles finding the Campy shift cables at a price that I like.
02-04-19, 03:47 PM
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It's not the under tape routing. It's the small radius of the spool inside the shifter.
Another reason (perhaps the main reason) folks report such wide discrepancies in cable life, is that slick cables are far more prone to fatigue since they've been cold-worked when they were die drawn. But since so many Shimano systems are quite finicky about cable friction, you often can't get away with using cheaper cables that last longer.
But even if you can get away without them, I'd go with die drawn cables anyway - they work much nicer until they fray.
Another reason (perhaps the main reason) folks report such wide discrepancies in cable life, is that slick cables are far more prone to fatigue since they've been cold-worked when they were die drawn. But since so many Shimano systems are quite finicky about cable friction, you often can't get away with using cheaper cables that last longer.
But even if you can get away without them, I'd go with die drawn cables anyway - they work much nicer until they fray.