Belt Drive and Fixing a Flat
#26
contiuniously variable
I am still interested in belt drive.... i m looking to get a SE tripel.... i think i may see if i can't get that hooked up with a gates centertrack belt drive at some point.
- Andy
- Andy
#27
Senior Member
The real pain in the hindquarters with IGH hubs and tire repair are those with a coaster brake reaction arm that mounts to the chainstay...
I've only had to change the tire on mine (Shimano 7-speed), never had to repair a flat in the 9 months that I have had it. I really wish this old, second-hand bike didn't have the coaster brake but a hand brake instead, but this setup is common here in Scandinavia.
I've only had to change the tire on mine (Shimano 7-speed), never had to repair a flat in the 9 months that I have had it. I really wish this old, second-hand bike didn't have the coaster brake but a hand brake instead, but this setup is common here in Scandinavia.
#28
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No grease is a major advantage for people like me who bike everywhere in their normal clothes.
#29
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Most flats don't require removing the wheel.
These are the steps I learned riding a horizontal drop bike with fenders, an IGH and a fully covered crankcase.
1. Pull tire off one side of rim.
2. Locate hole in tube
3. Check tire for obstruction that caused hole in tube.
4. Remove obstruction in tire
5. Patch hole in tube.
6. Reinstall the tire on the rim
7. Inflate
8. Carry on.
These are the steps I learned riding a horizontal drop bike with fenders, an IGH and a fully covered crankcase.
1. Pull tire off one side of rim.
2. Locate hole in tube
3. Check tire for obstruction that caused hole in tube.
4. Remove obstruction in tire
5. Patch hole in tube.
6. Reinstall the tire on the rim
7. Inflate
8. Carry on.
It is sad, if not shameful, how few cyclists patch their tubes. To patch a tube takes little more time than replacing the tube, and the properly patched tube is every bit as good as a new one. In terms of money, new tubes cost ten or twenty times as much as patches. In environmental terms... oh, I will spare you the lecture, but really I was just getting started.
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#30
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On shimano hubs the cable can be unhooked in like .5 seconds, it has a lil directional screw that clamps down on the end & anchors into a slot, just pop it out of slot and you're golden. Be sure to thread the cable around the hub properly when re-instaling, or you'll end up not shifting correctly & possibly damaging the mechanisms inside.
- Andy
- Andy
#31
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Have you seen the Gaadi Bicycle Tube by Rubena.
The design is to remove the tube without removing the wheel.
The design is to remove the tube without removing the wheel.
#33
Genetics have failed me
I ride a Rohloff equipped Gates Carbon drive bike. Taking the rear wheel out is no different than a derailleur equipped bike.
1. Remove external gear mech from hub
2. Open Locknut or quick release
3. Move snubber to outside position
4. Lift wheel out of frame without getting hands dirty since belt is not oiled and full with grime
5. Fix flat
6. Reverse steps
1. Remove external gear mech from hub
2. Open Locknut or quick release
3. Move snubber to outside position
4. Lift wheel out of frame without getting hands dirty since belt is not oiled and full with grime
5. Fix flat
6. Reverse steps
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Last edited by Scummer; 12-07-15 at 04:01 AM.
#34
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I have an old Raleigh 3 speed. I really don't want to get a flat on that thing....so I have thorn proof tubes and tires with puncture resistance. It will ahve to be something pretty major to get through both tire and tube.
#35
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Step 5 may be impossible under freezing or wet weather conditions. Ever try getting rubber cement from a frozen container or applying a patch to a wet tube? The only carrying on will be the unfortunate fellow carrying his sorry self and flatted bike to shelter.
#36
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This is kind of elementary, but everyone should do a dry-run flat repair on any new bike and immediately pick up all the stuff you used and throw it in you bike bag.
Not very much fun on the side of the road wondering about something as the sun is going d
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That also means some cheap readers for we oLde people
But I agree with the posts about not removing the wheel at all once you learn your bike. I havent had a flat that required a tube/rim removal in almost a decade. KoW!
Not very much fun on the side of the road wondering about something as the sun is going d
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That also means some cheap readers for we oLde people
But I agree with the posts about not removing the wheel at all once you learn your bike. I havent had a flat that required a tube/rim removal in almost a decade. KoW!
I carry a tube so that I can just pop in a new tube and worry about patching later. I did just replace my commuter bike's rear tube last week because it already had at least 4 patches on it, and it was leaking air faster than normal somewhere. I had it up over 100 PSI that morning, and by the time I got home that evening it had about 30 PSI in it.
#37
Junior Member
Someone in the forum suggested using a cotton ball to wipe the inside of the tire. If anything is sticking through the casing it should snag a few strands of the cotton so you can make sure to remove it before putting in the backup tube. My most common flat is from radial tire wires that are very small and hard to find. I also carry a small pair of tweezers to pull the glass or wire out before installing the tube.
#38
contiuniously variable
You know, if it was a big problem it seems to me that you could have the spare tube already looped inside the triangle, bag it up or something and strapped to a stay down by the axle. That way you could change your tube also without having to take the wheel off, or even having to loosen it. Heck maybe you could keep 2 or 3 tubes that way just in case.
- Andy
#39
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#41
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#42
Banned
Using eccentric BB +/or vertical sliding dropouts you should be able to re tension the belt, as you put the wheel back in.
#43
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#44
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If you want to see some really well thought out belt drive bikes, go to the TiCycles website. They have the dropout issues solved very nicely. They have also built bikes with just one set of stays, no left side, so you can just lay the bike down and pull the tire and tube right off with the wheel in place, never messing with the belt tension.
If you are considering a belt drive, it is worth looking at their stuff just to see what can be done. (Re-fitting bikes is also something they do a lot of: for belts, for S&S couplers, etc.)
Ben
If you are considering a belt drive, it is worth looking at their stuff just to see what can be done. (Re-fitting bikes is also something they do a lot of: for belts, for S&S couplers, etc.)
Ben
#45
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I had good luck with the Dunlop valves on the bike tubes on my German bikes, but never found them "more convenient" than Schrader valves which can be refilled without an adapter at any gas station or garage air pump worldwide.
#46
Senior Member
On a trip in the Florida Keys last week I got a flat per day on my rear wheel from tiny bits of wire. I think the front wheel kicked up the wire and the rear wheel picked it up. These were all slow leaks that took a couple minutes to lose the air. Took off the rear wheel to change the tube for the first flat, but once I realized all I needed to do was find the wire and pinhole, the next three flats were patched leaving the wheel on. Saves a bit of time, and repairing on the bike is no more difficult than removing the wheel and repairing off the bike.
#47
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Nothing big, but I do like them better, can order them directly from Schwalbe, and get them the next day as their world DC is here in Washington.
#48
Banned
I only hear the air from the Pump hose escaping so I Dont understand your problem, maybe technique?
I have 1 valve cap with the removal tool on my Schrader tube bikes un screwing the valve core is no challenge.
Yea Schwalbe sells tubes with all 3 stems .. I have A/V 4 in my Brompton.
I have 1 valve cap with the removal tool on my Schrader tube bikes un screwing the valve core is no challenge.
Yea Schwalbe sells tubes with all 3 stems .. I have A/V 4 in my Brompton.
#49
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I only hear the air from the Pump hose escaping so I Dont understand your problem, maybe technique?
I have 1 valve cap with the removal tool on my Schrader tube bikes un screwing the valve core is no challenge.
Yea Schwalbe sells tubes with all 3 stems .. I have A/V 4 in my Brompton.
I have 1 valve cap with the removal tool on my Schrader tube bikes un screwing the valve core is no challenge.
Yea Schwalbe sells tubes with all 3 stems .. I have A/V 4 in my Brompton.
I keep a valve core tool cap on my bikes, and motorcycle, but I sure do like being able to remove a Dunlop valve core as easily as removing a Schrader cap without any tool.
I'm intrigued by the universal valve core that Alligator sells that works with all 3 types of valves. The real bonus is it converts a Schrader to a Presta/Dunlop.
A universal valve core and cap is $1, so next time I order something from Holland I'll get enough to convert my other bikes with some spares.