Post your Centurion Ironman.. For the love of 80s paint jobs!
#8576
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I could bring it back, there are overspray removers, etc. But, I’m looking at a 54cm Turbo. Would consider it after, to have Comp TA, Turbo, Ironman, Prestige and Turbo TT,
#8577
Junior Member
I tried setting up a Cinelli set of '90s style "ergo" drop bars like that and didn't care for the feel in the drops. Felt awkward and hard to find a balance point. I wanted the tops/hoods to be sorta horizontal for easier reach, but it messed up the feel of the drops, which I do use about 25% of the time.
When I tipped/rotated the bar forward/downward, the hood position was much lower than I was accustomed to. But the drops position felt more natural.
I think the tricky bit is to consider these short-reach across the tops/hoods, but with lower than expected position. So it might be necessary to raise the stem a bit to compensate.
Anyway, I tried 'em for awhile, couldn't get the hang of them, and those Cinelli bars are back in a box waiting for another project. I'm thinking of trying them on a gravel bike conversion from an old Univega mountain bike.
When I tipped/rotated the bar forward/downward, the hood position was much lower than I was accustomed to. But the drops position felt more natural.
I think the tricky bit is to consider these short-reach across the tops/hoods, but with lower than expected position. So it might be necessary to raise the stem a bit to compensate.
Anyway, I tried 'em for awhile, couldn't get the hang of them, and those Cinelli bars are back in a box waiting for another project. I'm thinking of trying them on a gravel bike conversion from an old Univega mountain bike.
#8578
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yeah I tried to find it no luck kinda hard to do on phone browser . How much would you want for the frameset ?
#8579
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Looks like the back TT cable guide could be broken as well. On the positive side, the paint might not be too thick. you can see the original color around the ST tubing decal. Definitely just a rider now. We'll keep an eye on it.
#8580
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I ***THINK*** the cable guide is still there, looking at the drive side pic in the ad. I'm guessing that when they moved the brake lever, they opted not to run the housing through that last guide to cheat a little on the length, rather than just running a new, longer housing.
Yeah, "ride condition", but I wouldn't kick it out of bed.
#8581
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I was wondering about that "ghost" around the decal. D'you think they just taped it off or sprayed around it or some other cheesy thing? I think I see a bit of that effect around the headbadge, too. Theft deterrent, if nothing else.
I ***THINK*** the cable guide is still there, looking at the drive side pic in the ad. I'm guessing that when they moved the brake lever, they opted not to run the housing through that last guide to cheat a little on the length, rather than just running a new, longer housing.
Yeah, "ride condition", but I wouldn't kick it out of bed.
I ***THINK*** the cable guide is still there, looking at the drive side pic in the ad. I'm guessing that when they moved the brake lever, they opted not to run the housing through that last guide to cheat a little on the length, rather than just running a new, longer housing.
Yeah, "ride condition", but I wouldn't kick it out of bed.
#8582
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A yellow 87 Master is “the one that got away” for me. I’ll skip the story, but it was the first nice road bike I tried to buy. Due to stupidity, I missed out on it. That was 20+ years ago, and I’ve still never owned one, but I’m tempted every time I see one. Yours is a one nice looking bike!
#8583
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https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...build-one.html
The fork is not the Kestrel EMS, it's a much much better Look. The EMS/EMS Pro are decent swaps for a steel but no lighter.
#8584
Junior Member
Here you go.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...build-one.html
The fork is not the Kestrel EMS, it's a much much better Look. The EMS/EMS Pro are decent swaps for a steel but no lighter.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...build-one.html
The fork is not the Kestrel EMS, it's a much much better Look. The EMS/EMS Pro are decent swaps for a steel but no lighter.
#8585
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Listen on! Listen on! This is the truth of it. Biking leads to more biking, and more biking leads to building, and that can damn near be the death of us all. Look at us now, busted up and everyone's talking about hard rain! But we've learned! By the dust of 'em all, IM Nation's learned. Now when men get to biking, it happens here, and it finishes here! Bike parts enter, IM bikes leave. And right now, I've got good parts. Good parts with a gut full of potential. Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, wheel building time's here!
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#8587
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Mmmmmm. Tricolor?
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Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
#8588
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^^^^^^^^ Aaaaaaannnnnddd, it's gone! No surprise at that price. Those post-Centurion-merge-thingy Diamond Backs are real sleepers; my wife picked up a '90 Momentum (I think it equates to a Le Mans), and it's a delight to ride.
Check out the.... er.... creative customization of the seat post. And is that chewin' tobacco spit cup on the downtube?
Check out the.... er.... creative customization of the seat post. And is that chewin' tobacco spit cup on the downtube?
#8589
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^^^^^^^^ Aaaaaaannnnnddd, it's gone! No surprise at that price. Those post-Centurion-merge-thingy Diamond Backs are real sleepers; my wife picked up a '90 Momentum (I think it equates to a Le Mans), and it's a delight to ride.
Check out the.... er.... creative customization of the seat post. And is that chewin' tobacco spit cup on the downtube?
Check out the.... er.... creative customization of the seat post. And is that chewin' tobacco spit cup on the downtube?
Fast Forward seat post. By Bubba. Looking at that build, I think there's a "carolinapandj" out there. Maybe a cousin, certainly a kindred.
Last edited by RobbieTunes; 04-30-20 at 03:52 PM.
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#8590
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"De-pimp my Ride" (please!)
https://madison.craigslist.org/bik/d...116010697.html
(BTW, I think it's our local bike kitchen selling this; they've taken to posting ads with one low-res bad-focus photo, text with flowery verbiage in place of useful info, and stratospheric prices.)
https://madison.craigslist.org/bik/d...116010697.html
Centurion Ironman Racing Road Bike Small Free Delivery - $630 (Madison)
(BTW, I think it's our local bike kitchen selling this; they've taken to posting ads with one low-res bad-focus photo, text with flowery verbiage in place of useful info, and stratospheric prices.)
Last edited by madpogue; 05-04-20 at 05:36 PM.
#8591
Senior Member
Here's one that may be of interest to some.. @canklecat
Fair price. The color scheme is cool however I believe the frame geometry is different than the Ironman and may make for a quicker handling bike.
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/bik/d/fort-worth-centurion-prestige-road-bike/7118462901.html
Fair price. The color scheme is cool however I believe the frame geometry is different than the Ironman and may make for a quicker handling bike.
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/bik/d/fort-worth-centurion-prestige-road-bike/7118462901.html
Last edited by texaspandj; 05-05-20 at 07:06 AM.
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#8592
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I was riding my '88 Carbon Ironman Sunday on my regular 26 mile route, with a little less than 5 miles to go I felt a rotating bump. I pulled over and spinned my wheels and noticed it was my rear wheel. Of course I think the worse and it must be bad wheel bearings. But slower spinning of the wheel revealed a knot on my tire was hitting the frame. I pulled off the road into a parking lot, called my wife, leaned on my bike and waited. A few minutes later POW! Blow out.
I've got one extra specialized tire but it doesn't match the other one. So the search is on.... again.
Each one of my four Ironman have different sets of tires. And frankly I can't tell that much difference. I guess I'm not as astute as you Ironkids. I will say that the Carbon Ironman had the narrowest and hardest tires but with the sexy flexy forks it feels the same as my other steel IRONMAN.
I like the look of my four season continentals. And the Vittoria zaffiro, were pretty quick. The lower level specialized seem to cut easily.
What's the best tire for an IRONMAN bike, more to the point a frugal rider?
I've got one extra specialized tire but it doesn't match the other one. So the search is on.... again.
Each one of my four Ironman have different sets of tires. And frankly I can't tell that much difference. I guess I'm not as astute as you Ironkids. I will say that the Carbon Ironman had the narrowest and hardest tires but with the sexy flexy forks it feels the same as my other steel IRONMAN.
I like the look of my four season continentals. And the Vittoria zaffiro, were pretty quick. The lower level specialized seem to cut easily.
What's the best tire for an IRONMAN bike, more to the point a frugal rider?
#8593
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IMO and we are talking simi frugal clinchers my vote is a set of Conti Gatorskins . https://bikecloset.com/product/conti...saAqeeEALw_wcB
#8594
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Geezz, pleez.
Friends don’t let friends ride Hatorskins.
PM me for a great deal on some tahrs, Tex.
Friends don’t let friends ride Hatorskins.
PM me for a great deal on some tahrs, Tex.
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#8595
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This is a good deal.
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...s.php?id=64447
GP4000s are pretty sweet. I have 25 s on my wife's MV. And had a wonderful time with 23s on my Classic Sunday. 33 bucks?
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...s.php?id=64447
GP4000s are pretty sweet. I have 25 s on my wife's MV. And had a wonderful time with 23s on my Classic Sunday. 33 bucks?
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
#8596
Senior Member
I rode Gatorskins for a good while but decided to try GP4000s They felt better. Then I tried GP5000s and they were even better. I am not the most astute rider so if I can tell the difference it must be real. They were pretty expensive but are getting cheaper. I have had one flat on them in around 3000 miles and it was a wire out of a radial tire.
#8597
Me duelen las nalgas
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Continental Ultra Sport II. Best bang for the buck I've tried. Almost as good as the pricey Schwalbe One V-Guards, and I really can't feel any difference between the Ultra Sport II and the Conti Grand Prix Classic skinwalls that cost twice as much. Also the 700x25 Ultra Sport II cleared the rear brake bridge on my Suntour GPX brakes, while the 700x25 GP Classics scrape just slightly whenever I run through a puddle. And the 700x23 Ultra Sport II are good as well. Much smoother riding and better grip than the Vittoria Zaffiro -- I still have a pair of those in wire bead in the closet for backups.
#8598
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Here's one that may be of interest to some.. @canklecat
Fair price. The color scheme is cool however I believe the frame geometry is different than the Ironman and may make for a quicker handling bike.
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/bik/d/fort-worth-centurion-prestige-road-bike/7118462901.html
Fair price. The color scheme is cool however I believe the frame geometry is different than the Ironman and may make for a quicker handling bike.
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/bik/d/fort-worth-centurion-prestige-road-bike/7118462901.html
#8599
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Here's one that may be of interest to some.. @canklecat
Fair price. The color scheme is cool however I believe the frame geometry is different than the Ironman and may make for a quicker handling bike.
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/bik/d/fort-worth-centurion-prestige-road-bike/7118462901.html
Fair price. The color scheme is cool however I believe the frame geometry is different than the Ironman and may make for a quicker handling bike.
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/bik/d/fort-worth-centurion-prestige-road-bike/7118462901.html
#8600
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Listen on! Listen on! This is the truth of it. Biking leads to more biking, and more biking leads to building, and that can damn near be the death of us all. Look at us now, busted up and everyone's talking about hard rain! But we've learned! By the dust of 'em all, IM Nation's learned. Now when men get to biking, it happens here, and it finishes here! Bike parts enter, IM bikes leave. And right now, I've got good parts. Good parts with a gut full of potential. Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, wheel building time's here!
As for a "How To" on wheelbuilding, It something you just have to do. I can offer some tips:
Do your homework first. Find yourself a good spoke calculator and get the measurements correct. I use EDD spoke calculator. It has lots of rims/hubs in it's database and hasn't let me down yet.
https://leonard.io/edd/
I use Sheldon Brown's Wheelbuilding site for the other info. There are plenty of good sites/spoke calculators. Find one that works for you.
https://www.google.com/search?client...+wheelbuilding
Set up your workplace with some grease on something disposable. You can grab a spoke with one hand, dab the threads in the grease and run a nipple on with the other hand. This spreads the grease and verifies the threads are good. Roll the nipple back off then do your thing. At some point in the process, you will have to drop your nipple into the hole then insert the spoke into the end. Use something like a finish nail or a needle to act as a cannula and drop the nipples into the holes. Make sure you get the leader spoke on the non drive side in the correct hub hole. If you don't, you'll nearly have the wheel finished when this mistake rears it's ugly head. You'll have to backtrack and do some extra work to correct the problem. That's about it. Now let me think about some wheel truing tips.
Last edited by seypat; 05-06-20 at 01:25 PM.