Show your Trek Multitrack!
#801
Junior Member
Hi all- I'm new to BF and new to the Multitrack thread. I am almost done with the upgrades on my new-to-me red 720, for now at least. I still need to replace the saddle and get different grips since I ditched the grip twist shifters, and the factory grips are really short by themselves. Fun project and really cool and comfortable bike! It's 23" which fits me fine but at 6'0" I couldn't go any taller, that's for sure. I went with semi-budget upgrades for now but may be interested in a 2x10 setup at some point. No spacers in the 7 speed cassette and only like 131mm and change vs. 135mm, so from what I understand there is nothing I can do with that. I would like to get a threadless adapter and new riser and bar setup, but I'm going to ride it as is since it's new to me, and decide later.
List of stuff so far:
Shimano Altus SHIMANO FD-M310
Shimano Altus RDM310 rear derailleur
Shimano RAPIDFIRE Plus Shifting Lever Left Only (3x8/7-speed) SL-M315-L
SHIMANO Altus Right Shift Lever 7-Speed SL-M315-7R
XC 3 chainring crankset, by the company that makes ICF (made specifically for 27 speed)
Hollowtech II style bottom bracket (came with the crankset)
ZONKIE (Amazon special) 6/7/8 speed chain
Tektro Eclipse MT2.1 Levers Brake Levers
MZYRH Mountain Bike Pedals
Blackburn (Walmart brand) 700 x 38c hybrid tires - I bought the rear to match since the previous owner had already put one of these on the front. I actually like these tires pretty well.
UPANBIKE Bike Seat Post Aluminum Alloy Length 350mm to replace the suspension seat post that came with my bike
List of stuff so far:
Shimano Altus SHIMANO FD-M310
Shimano Altus RDM310 rear derailleur
Shimano RAPIDFIRE Plus Shifting Lever Left Only (3x8/7-speed) SL-M315-L
SHIMANO Altus Right Shift Lever 7-Speed SL-M315-7R
XC 3 chainring crankset, by the company that makes ICF (made specifically for 27 speed)
Hollowtech II style bottom bracket (came with the crankset)
ZONKIE (Amazon special) 6/7/8 speed chain
Tektro Eclipse MT2.1 Levers Brake Levers
MZYRH Mountain Bike Pedals
Blackburn (Walmart brand) 700 x 38c hybrid tires - I bought the rear to match since the previous owner had already put one of these on the front. I actually like these tires pretty well.
UPANBIKE Bike Seat Post Aluminum Alloy Length 350mm to replace the suspension seat post that came with my bike
Last edited by Hydrilla; 06-13-22 at 12:27 PM.
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#802
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Welcome! Yes, you won't be able to get any more sprockets on that 7-speed freehub body*, but you could swap to an 8/9/10-speed freehub body in the future if you wanted to. I'm pretty sure the bike should already have 135mm spacing. If it's down to 131mm, it sounds like some spacers may have gone missing at some point in the bike's life. That...or it was originally setup with 130mm spacing and it's just a hair thick now. In either case, the frame is steel and the rear triangles will bend in or out to accomodate different hub widths, within reason. You or your local bike shop could install an 8/9/10-speed freehub body on the wheel and do what might be needed to redish it to re-center it.
* one caveat to the 7-speed body accepts only a 7-speed cassette situation is the old 8-of-9-on-7 trick, where you take a 9-speed cassette, remove one sprocket (usually the largest one) and install the rest of the stack. 9-speed sprockets (and spacers) are thinner than those of 7- and 8-speed systems and 8 of those will fit on a 7-speed freehub body. You'd need to use a 9-speed shifter (or a friction shifter), and you'd have only 8 or the 9 "speeds" out of that shifter (since you have only 8 of the 9 sprockets), but it can be done and sometimes works pretty elegantly. You'd need a 9-speed chain as well. You usually don't have to change the rear derailer.
* one caveat to the 7-speed body accepts only a 7-speed cassette situation is the old 8-of-9-on-7 trick, where you take a 9-speed cassette, remove one sprocket (usually the largest one) and install the rest of the stack. 9-speed sprockets (and spacers) are thinner than those of 7- and 8-speed systems and 8 of those will fit on a 7-speed freehub body. You'd need to use a 9-speed shifter (or a friction shifter), and you'd have only 8 or the 9 "speeds" out of that shifter (since you have only 8 of the 9 sprockets), but it can be done and sometimes works pretty elegantly. You'd need a 9-speed chain as well. You usually don't have to change the rear derailer.
#803
Junior Member
Welcome! Yes, you won't be able to get any more sprockets on that 7-speed freehub body*, but you could swap to an 8/9/10-speed freehub body in the future if you wanted to. I'm pretty sure the bike should already have 135mm spacing. If it's down to 131mm, it sounds like some spacers may have gone missing at some point in the bike's life. That...or it was originally setup with 130mm spacing and it's just a hair thick now. In either case, the frame is steel and the rear triangles will bend in or out to accomodate different hub widths, within reason. You or your local bike shop could install an 8/9/10-speed freehub body on the wheel and do what might be needed to redish it to re-center it.
* one caveat to the 7-speed body accepts only a 7-speed cassette situation is the old 8-of-9-on-7 trick, where you take a 9-speed cassette, remove one sprocket (usually the largest one) and install the rest of the stack. 9-speed sprockets (and spacers) are thinner than those of 7- and 8-speed systems and 8 of those will fit on a 7-speed freehub body. You'd need to use a 9-speed shifter (or a friction shifter), and you'd have only 8 or the 9 "speeds" out of that shifter (since you have only 8 of the 9 sprockets), but it can be done and sometimes works pretty elegantly. You'd need a 9-speed chain as well. You usually don't have to change the rear derailer.
* one caveat to the 7-speed body accepts only a 7-speed cassette situation is the old 8-of-9-on-7 trick, where you take a 9-speed cassette, remove one sprocket (usually the largest one) and install the rest of the stack. 9-speed sprockets (and spacers) are thinner than those of 7- and 8-speed systems and 8 of those will fit on a 7-speed freehub body. You'd need to use a 9-speed shifter (or a friction shifter), and you'd have only 8 or the 9 "speeds" out of that shifter (since you have only 8 of the 9 sprockets), but it can be done and sometimes works pretty elegantly. You'd need a 9-speed chain as well. You usually don't have to change the rear derailer.
I need to study up on that 9 speed cassette trick, sounds cool and I could see the benefit.
#804
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I really like 3x7 and 3x8. I've tried several other combinations, including converting older bikes to newer stuff, but I've gone back to the 3x7/8 consistently. It just works. There's plenty of gearing range, parts are inexpensive, it's not sensitive to precise set up and tuning...it's just easy to use and maintain.
#805
Junior Member
I really like 3x7 and 3x8. I've tried several other combinations, including converting older bikes to newer stuff, but I've gone back to the 3x7/8 consistently. It just works. There's plenty of gearing range, parts are inexpensive, it's not sensitive to precise set up and tuning...it's just easy to use and maintain.
I do think I will probably trade out the bars sooner than later, I rode some last night and the stock ones do feel pretty narrow. I am familiar with and have installed a threadless adapter so I can switch to modern riser and bars.
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#806
Junior Member
I just went and checked, and the Mavic 700c rear wheel I bought recently has a 9 speed cassette on it, I was misremembering that it was also a 7 speed. I bought this wheelset used after I had already bought and installed the other stuff for the 3x7 but at least I'll have a head start if I go that route.
#807
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I just went and checked, and the Mavic 700c rear wheel I bought recently has a 9 speed cassette on it, I was misremembering that it was also a 7 speed. I bought this wheelset used after I had already bought and installed the other stuff for the 3x7 but at least I'll have a head start if I go that route.
#808
Junior Member
What handlebars do you all like for your Multitracks? I am kind of interested in the Surly Sunrise, but several others out there including Amazon cheapies look pretty good.
#810
Junior Member
I really like the sweep back angle on those! Some come back so far that they are almost like beach bars. Great for some people I'm sure, but not for me. Great price, too!
Last edited by Hydrilla; 06-19-22 at 02:49 PM.
#811
Junior Member
After adding Oury V2 non-locking grips and an AIKATE saddle, my 720 is done for now. This saddle is a cheapie that is well reviewed, I think I will probably replace it with a Brooks at some point.
EDIT: Finally able to post a pic-
EDIT: Finally able to post a pic-
Last edited by Hydrilla; 06-19-22 at 06:15 PM.
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#812
Newbie
These multitracks have somewhat short top tubes as the frames are based on the 520 (actually the 750 shared the same frame and fork) so they’re good for converting to drops if that’s your thing.
You can’t go wrong with a Brooks. I have a B67 on my 790. Just switched to a C67 on my Schwinn superior. It’s the cambium version. It’s surprisingly comfortable but not as nice as the sprung leather saddles.
#813
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Ruben
#814
Junior Member
Hi welcome to Multitrack world, with a few tweeks you can do many things with the bikes. Are you sure that is a 23"? i am 6' 2" and ride a 23" with almost no seatpost showing and it does not feel any too small. I normally ride a 59 road bike and i measure my 23 MT at 58 plus a touch.
Ruben
Ruben
#815
Newbie
#816
Newbie
I see what you mean- your head tube looks longer than mine (really nice looking bike, by the way!!). Part of it is the angle of my picture, I think. The sticker on mine says 23" but I have never measured it before just now. From the center of the crank to the top of the seat tube is exactly 23 inches.
#817
Full Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Southwest Ohio
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Bikes: Wow, where to start? A collection of 1980's and early 90's road, touring, and MTBs from the likes of Trek, Schwinn, Cannondale, Fuji, Miyata, Univega, Panasonic, and GT. It has gotten rather out of control.
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I don't have this one anymore, but it was a great bike. I bet it would make a fantastic e-conversion. I put a Bafang BBS02 mid-drive on a classic Panasonic ATB and it is awesome.
#818
Newbie
I'm actually thinking about picking it up from Ohio today. Maybe it's your old bike. Do you think $175 is a fair price for what seems like a nice condition frame and seemingly nice condition assessing by description and photos?
#819
Full Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Southwest Ohio
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Bikes: Wow, where to start? A collection of 1980's and early 90's road, touring, and MTBs from the likes of Trek, Schwinn, Cannondale, Fuji, Miyata, Univega, Panasonic, and GT. It has gotten rather out of control.
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Hard for me to evaluate the price. It depends on your needs. They are very well made bikes and you could not buy that level of bike new for anywhere near $175, but knowing the used pricing in this area, I think that is a pretty high price. I'd be more comfortable in the 100-125 range, because if you had to resell it, I think you would have trouble getting $175.
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#820
Senior Member
Do you have a thread about this somewhere? I've been halfway thinking about an e bike lately for my 18 mile one way commute but the prices are putting me off....
#821
Newbie
Here's the forum for the Tongsheng motor: tongsheng - endless-sphere forum
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#822
Newbie
Wanting to ditch the grip shifters on my 1993 700 and change to brake lever shifter unit's and was wondering if anyone knows what would work with my 700? My bike is a 3 x 6 and I would like to keep the cantilever brake's if compatibility can be achieved. Switching to V brakes, if need be, would not be a problem, I am just unsure what will work with my bike and shopping online can be a bit overwhelming. Any insight or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
#823
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Wanting to ditch the grip shifters on my 1993 700 and change to brake lever shifter unit's and was wondering if anyone knows what would work with my 700? My bike is a 3 x 6 and I would like to keep the cantilever brake's if compatibility can be achieved. Switching to V brakes, if need be, would not be a problem, I am just unsure what will work with my bike and shopping online can be a bit overwhelming. Any insight or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
__________________
80 Mercian Olympic, 92 DB Overdrive, '07 Rivendell AHH, '16 Clockwork All-Rounder
80 Mercian Olympic, 92 DB Overdrive, '07 Rivendell AHH, '16 Clockwork All-Rounder
#824
Newbie
Here's my Multitrack 730 ebike! But I also have a question about it. The rear wheel is not centered. I tried to get it as centered as possible and even went to my LBS to look at it. There's much more space on the right side than the left as you can see below. As you can see I can get my finger between the fork and the tire on the right side but not on the left side. I also get this sort of lurching back and forth when I'm riding which is much more apparent when I brake with the rear brakes. This may have something to do with the centering or possibly the rims have a concave groove which to me means they are probably too worn.
So I'm just seeing if other people with a Multitrack 730 have rear tires perfectly centered I'd appreciate anyone to chime in!
Here's what the bike looks like on a grocery run.
So I'm just seeing if other people with a Multitrack 730 have rear tires perfectly centered I'd appreciate anyone to chime in!
Here's what the bike looks like on a grocery run.
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#825
Full Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
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Bikes: Raleigh USA Technium Olympian, Kona Hahanna single-speed, FUJI Espree Three Speed Fixie, Trek 720 hybrid/bike of burden, Trek 1200 ZX 'Superleggera' project, Trek 400 fixie, Cove G-Spot double-boinger. .
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