bamboobike4

Do you plan on buying them?

I guess that's why I've never cold set.
I certainly understand why one would, and why one would not.
Perhaps it's still a freedom thing.
BUT....
The 60-70 bikes I've upgraded to 8, 9, 10, and 11 speed (with the less useful cogs remaining) are in apparent dire straights.
A couple have been ridden across the US. One has toured New Zealand. Those extra cogs came in handy, especially above 28T.

I'm not sure which is more dangerous,
my asplodable old carbon
or the reduced integrity of the frame that is already 40 years old,
or the collector value of a bike that was built to be ridden, not shown.

It's all good. I love to go look at collectible bikes.
I prefer to ride those I've already ruined.

I'm taking one to Israel. Hope it works out.

bamboobike4

You are doing fine, and many of us have been right there, and look how we turned out.

Wait.....

ryanl092

Finally everything are assembled and ready for a test ride.
I actually faced the campy friction shifter issue last few days and finally resolve it by adding a washer between the D ring cup and convex plastic plate for my FD shifter. I did clean up the grease before that and no use. It felt like the screw length issue, but I doubt.


so far so good except ...


I found my RD can only reach 7 gears after a few tries. It turned out the cable was stuck because the white tube has been pull into the silver ring.

I probably need a cable like this one
https://velobase.com/ViewComponent.a...d-1d986376c2f3 ?

I can't steal the crank from my Ironman forever, eventually I will need to figure this out.

Ryan

smd4

You need the correct cable housing ferrule.

P!N20

Which is a stepped ferrule.

smd4

Use the housing you already have (not "white tube"), which will work with indexed shifting far better than the coiled housing you linked to. Just use the correct stepped ferrule that P!N20 linked to in his post in the cable stop (not "silver ring").

Positron400

I had the same issue with my frame, where i had to source a stepped ferrule. I went to my LBS and all they had, was one from Campagonolo where the diameter didnt quite fit (ID 3.5 mm afair), but that was easy remedied by filing it down. Shifting works like a treat now! (I think one of them plastic end caps with the extra plastic "tounge" might also work, but defo less durable)

EDIT: regarding the Crankset, I used a Grand Cru Drillium 34/48 from Velo Orange with a 117 mm JIS square taper from TOKEN.

smd4

I had heard through these forums that the correct stepped ferrules are getting harder and harder to find.

EDIT: However, there seem to be plenty on eBay

ryanl092

A lot of Ebay lists are from UK and most of them has no detail spec.
Is this https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...s.php?id=62560 the right one ?
It only indicated ID/OD 4/6mm. Unlike the link smd posted has clear spec "Measurements: Outer small step diameter 3.98mm / Outer large step diameter 6mm / Inner diameter 5.2mm / Inner cable diameter 2.3mm / Overall length 14.05mm"

Ryan

smd4

I just included that link as an example. Measure to be sure. There also may be folks here who can spare one.

ryanl092

The price of the step down ferrule I found are $10 to $0.4 plus shipping /handling. In the end I got it from bike tools etc for $3.95/10 pc
I need to buy extra bike stuff like cables..etc to meet the min though. Anyway I think I have finished the project for now.
With the step down ferrule I can smoothly switch all 10 speed gears. Of course the shifter will be at 180 degree at 10th gear....It's acceptable for me though. Later on I will need to find the compact crankset for the Pina and return the 600 crank to Ironman.

Thanks everybody that help me resolve a lot of issues I faced on my first build. I am so happy now.




Ready for the weekend ride.

Positron400

Amazing build! Well done! I only ever built up my first frame from scratch this year too. Such a satisfying experience and so much stuff to learn. Enjoy your rides!

ryanl092

I made a few update on my bike and faced a new issue. Need some help.
I purchased a Token 36x24T 102mm ITA BB with ISO taper and a Campagnolo record CT 10 speed crank.
There is no much information on the internet. The previous owner told me it used 102mm BB. His is 68mm version.
Today I happily installed after USPS delivered the BB. I noticed I need to cut a few links of chain as compact need shorter chain, otherwise
everything works fine "Before I tie up the crank screw" ..Well you guess.... The crank touched the BB and stuck after I tie it up. My goodness..
I feel that it could not be JIS vs ISO as I don't think Campagnolo has JIS taper. Has it ?? Or It needs 102mm for BSA(68mm) and 103mm for ITA ? I remembered my previous BB it's Shimano 7402 which shows 112mm for BSA and 113mm for ITA. I think a 1mm spacer may not work as the crank arm touched the BB driver side cup. Any comment ?
So. I stop there and put in the unknown crank. It's the JIS taper based on the seller. I think it will have better chain line if it move 1-2mm closer to the BB. I cut 2 links to make small/small combination fit and adjust the FD to make sure no chain scratch. Now it's ready to find the solution to put in the record CT crank.



The unknown crank arm from ebay I bought earlier.


Chainline is closed, just 1-2mm off perfect. This is the unknown crank.


The yellow part touched the BB cup.

ryanl092

Compared Token BB and Chorus BB.
Chorus 102mm BB
https://www.probikekit.com/bottom-br...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

Token ITA BB
https://www.tokenproducts.com/bottom...uare-taper-185

I doubted the shape of the BB cup of Token BB caused the problem. Possible ?

Ryan

cudak888 

There is a possibility that the Shimano-style BB spline on the Token bottom bracket simply isn't compatible with the Campag crank - though if this was the case, I'd also want to see if the square taper was close to bottoming out as well.

Do you have any photos of the Campag crank's interference on the BB? It would be interesting to compare against the existing crank shown.

-Kurt

ryanl092

Crank is so close to the BB cup. If I turn the screw 10 degree more, I can feel the resistance between the BB and crank.


The surface of the BB cup. Not exactly sure if the cosmetic damage to the BB cup during the tie up would be the problem.


It's ISO spindle 102mm

ryanl092

Not JIS 103mm spindle

Positron400

Might wanna try a longer spindle? (just my 2 cents)

ryanl092

I admitted that I did a questionable hack to make it work. I was curious about this method before when I dealt with the unknown crank I had.
My BB 7402 has an asymmetric spindle. Theoretically it is a 116mm symmetric BB on driver side spindle or 110mm BB from Left side spindle. Since this is a ITA BB, both R and L side are right hand thread. If I invert the 7402 BB, it may be treated as a 110mm BB. (Just a theory.) However by measurement I found that unknown crank need way less than 110mm BB and I did not proceed the experiment.
I tried to figure out if I go buy a Chorus 102mm BB, I will need to buy the installation tools. I thought it was Park tool BBT-5/FR-11, but the store said it's not the right tools for the BB. I was frustrated and I came up the idea to play with my previous theory. I screw in the crank from the L side and tie it up. Good. It's a match. I carefully install the BB cup L side to the driver side and then R side to the inverted side.
(I am not responsible for this hack if you try it. Even It works for me, it does not mean it won't damage your gears.) And then it seemed to be ok. Will test ride tomorrow. Fingers cross.

Ryan

branko_76 

Completely agree. The stays will not move at the same rate so alignment can be way off.

branko_76 

That's actually something only a metallurgist or engineer can settle.

What's not BS is the fact that the OP did not set the rear stays individually so he has no idea if the frame is properly aligned.