ISO pedal forced to fr cranks - safe to use? + other french frenchiness
01-23-22, 01:10 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
ISO pedal forced to fr cranks - safe to use? + other french frenchiness
Hello all,
I am working on a new project and it arrived with Stronglight 107 cranks, someone witht disproportionately big bicepses has forced brittish theaded pedals to them. I removed left pedal using moderate force but the right one was stuckiest of them all. I removed pedal body and then clamped spindle with bench vice and then, using all my force, pushed the crankset and finally removed the pedal. The spindle is badly gauged and cracked at least on the surface, but I won't be using it anymore.
Now, I know that I can tap/repair crank threads to brittish.
The question is, is it safe to use these cranks anymore? Does the force used to drive french threaded spindle damage cranks? Is the hole stressed/more prone to cracking now? I believe pedals were there at least for 10 years. I can't see any cracks around pedal holes.
The other question is about this Stronglight/Spidel bb (looks like model 700a). The spindle is 118 but both crank arms were very close to cups, still they were not too close to bind, chainring was still at a good distance from stays. Before removing right crank arm I noticed that spindle taper is bottomed (first picture). I believe Stronglight road double uses 118 mm spindle, right? Is the taper wrong for this crankset? I always thought they all were ISO tapered?
I am working on a new project and it arrived with Stronglight 107 cranks, someone witht disproportionately big bicepses has forced brittish theaded pedals to them. I removed left pedal using moderate force but the right one was stuckiest of them all. I removed pedal body and then clamped spindle with bench vice and then, using all my force, pushed the crankset and finally removed the pedal. The spindle is badly gauged and cracked at least on the surface, but I won't be using it anymore.
Now, I know that I can tap/repair crank threads to brittish.
The question is, is it safe to use these cranks anymore? Does the force used to drive french threaded spindle damage cranks? Is the hole stressed/more prone to cracking now? I believe pedals were there at least for 10 years. I can't see any cracks around pedal holes.
The other question is about this Stronglight/Spidel bb (looks like model 700a). The spindle is 118 but both crank arms were very close to cups, still they were not too close to bind, chainring was still at a good distance from stays. Before removing right crank arm I noticed that spindle taper is bottomed (first picture). I believe Stronglight road double uses 118 mm spindle, right? Is the taper wrong for this crankset? I always thought they all were ISO tapered?
Last edited by Jantaras; 06-01-22 at 10:23 AM.
01-23-22, 01:24 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,038
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 267 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4511 Post(s)
Liked 6,378 Times
in
3,667 Posts
@Jantaras
We just had a good discussion about the pedal part of this in a recent thread.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...maged-not.html
As for the spindle being flush with the arm, the same hamfist may have tightened the already stretched arm tapers to their limit.
That being said, you can clearance the end of the spindle, shim the taper and or make sure the washer is outside the taper under the bolt so it can go a bit past flush when tight.
Proceed at your own peril, that crank looks like it has been through the mill.
We just had a good discussion about the pedal part of this in a recent thread.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...maged-not.html
As for the spindle being flush with the arm, the same hamfist may have tightened the already stretched arm tapers to their limit.
That being said, you can clearance the end of the spindle, shim the taper and or make sure the washer is outside the taper under the bolt so it can go a bit past flush when tight.
Proceed at your own peril, that crank looks like it has been through the mill.
01-23-22, 03:40 PM
#3
Friendship is Magic
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 22,984
Bikes: old ones
Mentioned: 304 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26411 Post(s)
Liked 10,377 Times
in
7,205 Posts
.
...I wouild not worry about the pedal holes, but I would probably use a pedal washer at this point, on both arms.
I'm not at all sure what's going on with your spindle tapers, and without looking at it in person, would be afraid of guessing.
I have a collection of BB spindles and sealed units, and would probably just experiment, until I found one that seemed to work better with regard to bottoming and the distance of the arms from the BB cups. I don't think you can presume that one is original to your bicycle, or even to your crank.
...I wouild not worry about the pedal holes, but I would probably use a pedal washer at this point, on both arms.
I'm not at all sure what's going on with your spindle tapers, and without looking at it in person, would be afraid of guessing.
I have a collection of BB spindles and sealed units, and would probably just experiment, until I found one that seemed to work better with regard to bottoming and the distance of the arms from the BB cups. I don't think you can presume that one is original to your bicycle, or even to your crank.
__________________
01-24-22, 09:47 AM
#4
Junior Member
Assuming European manufacturers were all using the "ISO standard" is a mistake. My impression is that those guys could never agree on anything and there was no consistency even in particular companies. Isn't that crank 1980s? JIS is "thicker" than ISO. Someone may have just assumed a stronglight crank needed an ISO bottom bracket, when it wanted JIS. Experiment with different spindles.
I have a gut feeling that bottom bracket didn't exist when those cranks were made, but could be very wrong about that.
I have a gut feeling that bottom bracket didn't exist when those cranks were made, but could be very wrong about that.
