"Skipping gears" after new chain and rear derail. pulleys
#76
Senior Member
This thread was resurrected at an opportune time. Recently, I discovered my chain was worn enough to replace, so I was conscientious and replaced the chain, cassette, and worn jockey pulleys all at once. To make a long story short, the brand new cassette had gears that were out-of-true and I couldn't adjust the indexing to save my life. Luckily the old cassette worked fine when I dropped it back in.
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#77
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This thread was resurrected at an opportune time. Recently, I discovered my chain was worn enough to replace, so I was conscientious and replaced the chain, cassette, and worn jockey pulleys all at once. To make a long story short, the brand new cassette had gears that were out-of-true and I couldn't adjust the indexing to save my life. Luckily the old cassette worked fine when I dropped it back in.
Could you get a refund on the defective new cassette?
#78
Senior Member
I probably could, if I'd saved the packaging. This was a PG950 cassette. Back 15-20 years ago I had a string of problems with SRAM cassettes. I thought that was all behind me. Maybe the safe route to take would be to just use Shimano in the future.
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I ended up changing the slipping cogs for new ones rather than waiting for my new chain to wear out a bit and settle down.
I think the new-chain slip effect may be partly non-perfect gear-dérailleur alignment coupled with the way in which new chains, with less side to side bend, demand more accuracy.
My (made to bend, made to be unique and therefore expensive rip-off) dérailleur hanger is a bit bent but I don't want to buy another. With new gears the bike works.
I think the new-chain slip effect may be partly non-perfect gear-dérailleur alignment coupled with the way in which new chains, with less side to side bend, demand more accuracy.
My (made to bend, made to be unique and therefore expensive rip-off) dérailleur hanger is a bit bent but I don't want to buy another. With new gears the bike works.
Last edited by timtak; 05-27-22 at 06:11 PM.
#80
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In my experience this frustrating problem can resolve itself, just be extra cognizant about your pedalstroke. My dads bike does this when he rides in his little front gear much to his dismay, but I can get it to work because he mashes really hard. You can kind of wear a new chain to an old casette
#81
Razza 4.0
I just replaced my chain (KMC x.99) with the exact same KMC chain, on my 21-speed Gary Fisher.
Concurrently, I replaced both rear derail. jockey pulley wheels with same Shimano models. I was careful in noting rotation and proper pulley position (upper and lower are different).
Everything looks aligned and true--the parts replacement went smoothly. I have done both procedures several times before on my Gary Fisher -- all w/o incident.
Except now, after replacing these new components, I am noting some significant "skipping" on the highest gears (smallest cassette cogs) (all this when PEDALING, i.e., CHAIN UNDER TORQUE). From what I could "see" when I looked at cassette while moving, the skip seemed to be the the chain "wanting" to shift left . The skipping is very apparent on the smallest cog. And the problem goes away from middle to largest cog.
I did some experiments with barrel adj.; made no difference.
It doesn't matter which front crank chain-ring I'm using.
On the other hand, smoothness and crispness has significantly improved. But that skipping is very annoying.
Later today or tomorrow, I'll try to do a full rear derail. alignment.
Till then, I'll let you all take dibs on what the problem may be!! Give me place to start!
Concurrently, I replaced both rear derail. jockey pulley wheels with same Shimano models. I was careful in noting rotation and proper pulley position (upper and lower are different).
Everything looks aligned and true--the parts replacement went smoothly. I have done both procedures several times before on my Gary Fisher -- all w/o incident.
Except now, after replacing these new components, I am noting some significant "skipping" on the highest gears (smallest cassette cogs) (all this when PEDALING, i.e., CHAIN UNDER TORQUE). From what I could "see" when I looked at cassette while moving, the skip seemed to be the the chain "wanting" to shift left . The skipping is very apparent on the smallest cog. And the problem goes away from middle to largest cog.
I did some experiments with barrel adj.; made no difference.
It doesn't matter which front crank chain-ring I'm using.
On the other hand, smoothness and crispness has significantly improved. But that skipping is very annoying.
Later today or tomorrow, I'll try to do a full rear derail. alignment.
Till then, I'll let you all take dibs on what the problem may be!! Give me place to start!
#82
Junior Member
Thread Starter
No! I stood corrected, about 2 years ago now, on what the REAL issue was.
I removed the new chain and replaced it with the orig ( KMC purch's new in July 2017, concurrently replaced the same as new Shimano cassette, so no issue in July 2017). Still using the 2017 set which is pretty worn and I can only use in certain gear combos ... and my crank chain rings are very worn, too, with the middle ring useless.
Oh .... I luuuuuuuuuuuuuuve rubbin' that in to the work-fer-a-livin' mechanix ..... BF LIFERs ..... ohhhhhhhhhhhh that hurts .......... OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!
I removed the new chain and replaced it with the orig ( KMC purch's new in July 2017, concurrently replaced the same as new Shimano cassette, so no issue in July 2017). Still using the 2017 set which is pretty worn and I can only use in certain gear combos ... and my crank chain rings are very worn, too, with the middle ring useless.
Oh .... I luuuuuuuuuuuuuuve rubbin' that in to the work-fer-a-livin' mechanix ..... BF LIFERs ..... ohhhhhhhhhhhh that hurts .......... OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!
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#83
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elcyc sure showed us! All they had to do was ride a nonfunctional bike for two years to prove us wrong, and along the way forget what advice it was that they were trying to prove incorrect!
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#84
Banned.
In my experience this frustrating problem can resolve itself, just be extra cognizant about your pedalstroke. My dads bike does this when he rides in his little front gear much to his dismay, but I can get it to work because he mashes really hard. You can kind of wear a new chain to an old casette
I deal with plenty of ~20% gradient climbs, some pretty long so there's no way to take it easy and you can't afford the chain to skip under such conditions.
Plus, the practice of allowing chain to stretch beyond maximum allowable will accelerate wear of the cassette and chain rings. It is not a good economy and skipping imparts huge load on your drivetrain. That's bad to the BB, cranks, hub body, etc. You'll end up wearing those parts sooner or worse, failure during ride.
The next time you put on new cassette and chainring, begin the good practice of periodically checking for chain stretch and replace as soon as stretched to maximum recommended.
Last edited by koala logs; 05-30-22 at 07:53 AM.
#85
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Thread Starter
Non-functional?
"Non-functional?" Really, toots? Try 15mi every other day, .... with four panniers loaded with groceries.... since the cassette/chains were simultaneously replaced July 2017.
#86
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Don't feed the really incompetent, utterly obnoxious troll. They were looking for a stupid argument, not advice.
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#88
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So wait, the question of this thread is now "how many gears out of 21 have to be unusable before the bike is declared non-functional?"???!!!!
I may have to reconsider--maybe it's worth it to feed the troll when the troll says stuff that entertainingly ridiculous.
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#91
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Thread Starter
Umm
Well, I just happened to pass by this on my EOD commute to the grocery store via beach trail.
Dysfunctional bike next to a bunch of air-polluting classics. DYSFUNCTIONAL.
Dysfunctional bike next to a bunch of air-polluting classics. DYSFUNCTIONAL.
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3-4 chains per cassette, 3-4 cassettes per set of chainrings/crankset. Check your chains at 2,500 kms with a chain checking tool and rely on that. Replace when 0.75 or more is indicated.
For old school 6-7 speeds or Tourney, you may get more life out of everything, which may be the reason for all the hand wringing over a $15 cassette earlier in the thread?
On my commuter I get 3 chains to a Sunrace cassette (with light skipping on chain 3 until it wears in a bit) and 4 chains to a Shimano cassette.
Chains are cheaper than cassettes, which are cheaper than cranksets. Leaving chains on for too long will wear out both cassettes and cranksets.
For old school 6-7 speeds or Tourney, you may get more life out of everything, which may be the reason for all the hand wringing over a $15 cassette earlier in the thread?
On my commuter I get 3 chains to a Sunrace cassette (with light skipping on chain 3 until it wears in a bit) and 4 chains to a Shimano cassette.
Chains are cheaper than cassettes, which are cheaper than cranksets. Leaving chains on for too long will wear out both cassettes and cranksets.
Last edited by PDKL45; 07-22-22 at 12:56 AM.
#93
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Finally bit the bullet .... replaced chain, derail pulleys, all crank chainrings and cassette.
DIY, of course. Don't trust dem mechanix
DIY, of course. Don't trust dem mechanix
#95
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Hope you like hearing "I told you so".
#96
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Thread Starter
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
AGAIN:
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
Stay after class and write that factual statement on the backboard till it's full:
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
...
Last edited by elcyc; 07-14-22 at 10:32 AM.
#97
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Your reply is confuZing AF, toots. I know you’re bored AF and toss off any ol’ sentence … but ya’ gotta leave it alone sometimes. Capisce?
AGAIN:
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
Stay after class and write that factual statement on the backboard till it's full:
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
...
AGAIN:
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
Stay after class and write that factual statement on the backboard till it's full:
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
The July 2017-replaced chain and cassette lasted until July 2022.
...
No it didn't. You just put up with its dysfunction longer than someone with any sense would.
You were told this bike would suck until you replaced the cassette and chain. You then proceeded to attack people for saying that. Now you've finally replaced not only the cassette and chain, but the pulleys and chainrings as well. In other words, you wore out pretty much the entire drive train because of your stubbornness. To do this, you rode the bike with an increasing number of non-functioning gears, and have pretended that the problems you identified in the OP weren't really problems after all.
Not sure what you're here for, but I can't help but point out what a complete fool you've made of yourself...
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