What a long, strange trip it has been...
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DD
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Thank you - and I have to agree
DD
DD
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Honestly, I am just not that into the gravel stuff as I once was. Part of it is trying to provide my back with the smoothest pavement, but the other is that - for me - it's just not as enjoyable as a road ride. I can always cheer from the sidelines or sag (like Palouse), tho
DD
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Great Story. Beautiful frame restoration, so beautiful.
I kept an early Rauler bare steel for a couple of years, because it had the cleanest brazing, (after my Ron Cooper) I'd found, and looked so badass. It was much "steelier" looking and raw, than your Casati. The couple of post '75 Colnagos I've stripped were not terribly clean, but had been sanded just smooth enough for painting, which certainly fit their rep at the time. My limited experience with american builders' frames showed very clean brazing. The Rauler was in a very dry (dehumidified) basement,which I think made more difference than anything I did. Since moving it developed a "patina" and is now getting prepped for paint.
Love the build too, of course...
I kept an early Rauler bare steel for a couple of years, because it had the cleanest brazing, (after my Ron Cooper) I'd found, and looked so badass. It was much "steelier" looking and raw, than your Casati. The couple of post '75 Colnagos I've stripped were not terribly clean, but had been sanded just smooth enough for painting, which certainly fit their rep at the time. My limited experience with american builders' frames showed very clean brazing. The Rauler was in a very dry (dehumidified) basement,which I think made more difference than anything I did. Since moving it developed a "patina" and is now getting prepped for paint.
Love the build too, of course...
#30
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Beautiful, so beautiful.
I kept an early Rauler bare steel for a couple of years, because it had the cleanest brazing, (after my Ron Cooper) I'd found, and looked so badass. It was much "steelier" looking and raw, than your Casati, a result of using naval jelly instead of blasting. The couple of post '75 Colnagos I've stripped were not terribly clean, but had been sanded just smooth enough for painting, which certainly fit their rep at the time. My limited experience with american builders' frames showed very clean brazing. The Rauler was in a very dry (dehumidified) basement,which I think made more difference than anything I did. Since moving it developed a "patina" and is now getting prepped for paint.
Love the build too, of course...
I kept an early Rauler bare steel for a couple of years, because it had the cleanest brazing, (after my Ron Cooper) I'd found, and looked so badass. It was much "steelier" looking and raw, than your Casati, a result of using naval jelly instead of blasting. The couple of post '75 Colnagos I've stripped were not terribly clean, but had been sanded just smooth enough for painting, which certainly fit their rep at the time. My limited experience with american builders' frames showed very clean brazing. The Rauler was in a very dry (dehumidified) basement,which I think made more difference than anything I did. Since moving it developed a "patina" and is now getting prepped for paint.
Love the build too, of course...
#31
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It's been really cool seeing this bike transition from the *ahem* patina it had when you first brought it down to the Atelier to now. When I rolled up to it at the ferry dock Monday it didn't even occur to me that this might be the Casati until I saw the decals.
I really like how clean the brass is around the lugs. It looks like near-perfect lug lining.
I really like how clean the brass is around the lugs. It looks like near-perfect lug lining.
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#33
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As per my "signature", I used decanted Tamiya spray (flat black), brushed on. On the frame, the details were painted in, then cleaned up with Goof Off before the clear went down. I purposely used flat black on the component details to match the flat clear, especially as the parts are shiny on this one and not dulled down as on the Colnago.
DD
#34
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Great Story. Beautiful frame restoration, so beautiful.
I kept an early Rauler bare steel for a couple of years, because it had the cleanest brazing, (after my Ron Cooper) I'd found, and looked so badass. It was much "steelier" looking and raw, than your Casati. The couple of post '75 Colnagos I've stripped were not terribly clean, but had been sanded just smooth enough for painting, which certainly fit their rep at the time. My limited experience with american builders' frames showed very clean brazing. The Rauler was in a very dry (dehumidified) basement,which I think made more difference than anything I did. Since moving it developed a "patina" and is now getting prepped for paint.
Love the build too, of course...
I kept an early Rauler bare steel for a couple of years, because it had the cleanest brazing, (after my Ron Cooper) I'd found, and looked so badass. It was much "steelier" looking and raw, than your Casati. The couple of post '75 Colnagos I've stripped were not terribly clean, but had been sanded just smooth enough for painting, which certainly fit their rep at the time. My limited experience with american builders' frames showed very clean brazing. The Rauler was in a very dry (dehumidified) basement,which I think made more difference than anything I did. Since moving it developed a "patina" and is now getting prepped for paint.
Love the build too, of course...
I have to believe a US builder's frame in bare steel would look fantastic. If a production frame can look like this, you know?
DD
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It's been really cool seeing this bike transition from the *ahem* patina it had when you first brought it down to the Atelier to now. When I rolled up to it at the ferry dock Monday it didn't even occur to me that this might be the Casati until I saw the decals.
I really like how clean the brass is around the lugs. It looks like near-perfect lug lining.
I really like how clean the brass is around the lugs. It looks like near-perfect lug lining.
DD
#36
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That is an effing cool bike, @Drillium Dude. Instantly one of my favorites around here.
And Dalton, my six-year-old son, likes the cat.
And Dalton, my six-year-old son, likes the cat.
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
#37
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That is an effing cool bike, @Drillium Dude. Instantly one of my favorites around here.
And Dalton, my six-year-old son, likes the cat.
And Dalton, my six-year-old son, likes the cat.
DD
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Good luck. I hope the clear coat holds up and you get many happy miles on her!
#39
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I put on the NOS Concor, then did 40 miles or so down to Issaquah via West Lake Sammamish Blvd. I have had this saddle for years and years and years. So what was I waiting for? I'm glad to have finally broken it in.
BB is Italian threaded, but at some point over the years the shell has become 68mm. I only discovered this when I was tightening down the lockring on the adjustable cup and saw 2mm standing proud of the lockring's outer face. Yeah, that bugged me and my OCD, but really it was comical because I'd had an entire BB but the spindle (which I sourced from Bob Freeman) in 70mm and then I find it's not going to work for this shell. Anyhoo, I found a 68mm and it arrived today as well as a pair of black Christophe toestraps which complete the silver/black theme.
Once I've got the last couple bits on I'll shoot a few more pics for posterity. Hoping the special seat bolt comes in on Monday.
DD
BB is Italian threaded, but at some point over the years the shell has become 68mm. I only discovered this when I was tightening down the lockring on the adjustable cup and saw 2mm standing proud of the lockring's outer face. Yeah, that bugged me and my OCD, but really it was comical because I'd had an entire BB but the spindle (which I sourced from Bob Freeman) in 70mm and then I find it's not going to work for this shell. Anyhoo, I found a 68mm and it arrived today as well as a pair of black Christophe toestraps which complete the silver/black theme.
Once I've got the last couple bits on I'll shoot a few more pics for posterity. Hoping the special seat bolt comes in on Monday.
DD
#40
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Stunner, and great to see this project come to full fruition!
As others have commented, that's some clean brazing uncovered there.
I like how black fill on post, crank spider, shifters ties it all together in an understated way.
Sounds like the ride lives up to the 'look', too.
As others have commented, that's some clean brazing uncovered there.
I like how black fill on post, crank spider, shifters ties it all together in an understated way.
Sounds like the ride lives up to the 'look', too.
#41
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This Casati thread got me reading for quite a while!
Cool bike I have to say, very well done!
Cool bike I have to say, very well done!
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Stunner, and great to see this project come to full fruition!
As others have commented, that's some clean brazing uncovered there.
I like how black fill on post, crank spider, shifters ties it all together in an understated way.
Sounds like the ride lives up to the 'look', too.
As others have commented, that's some clean brazing uncovered there.
I like how black fill on post, crank spider, shifters ties it all together in an understated way.
Sounds like the ride lives up to the 'look', too.
DD
#43
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Thanks!
DD
#44
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Got my seatpost bolt from Casati today:
Drive side is a standard 8mm hex while the non-drive side is basically a wedge with a serrated edge. The serrations help snug it down and I found the best way to crank it down was to push down hard axially and at a slight angle. It had slipped some 1/4" a couple times with my kludged-up version, so I was very happy to receive the correct item today.
@Wildwood stopped by to do some horse-trading and general bike-geeking for a couple/three hours today. He brought me cookies
I have the brand-spankin'-new black Christophe toe straps on the bike, too, so as of today the build is 100% complete. Weather is looking like rain, or I'd take it outside for some final pics. Tomorrow...fingers crossed.
DD
Drive side is a standard 8mm hex while the non-drive side is basically a wedge with a serrated edge. The serrations help snug it down and I found the best way to crank it down was to push down hard axially and at a slight angle. It had slipped some 1/4" a couple times with my kludged-up version, so I was very happy to receive the correct item today.
@Wildwood stopped by to do some horse-trading and general bike-geeking for a couple/three hours today. He brought me cookies
I have the brand-spankin'-new black Christophe toe straps on the bike, too, so as of today the build is 100% complete. Weather is looking like rain, or I'd take it outside for some final pics. Tomorrow...fingers crossed.
DD
#45
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One year on and the finish is holding up really well. It's not been in the rain, but there are some small rust blooms on the BB shell and along the drive side chainstay from sweat. Patina or beausage, take your pick. One couldn't say abused yet
Still love the fit of this bike best of all. I put on a pair of 23mm Panaracer Pacelas I got free from my pal Jacob (who just celebrated his 60th yesterday) and they feel really nice. I might just take this on a jaunt up the Iron Horse Trail and through the Hyak Tunnel in a week or so with these tires. I also have a pair of 28mm Specialized Turbo LS vintage tires on the way that are probably going onto this bike - I think there's room and they'll do even better on the gravel. I haven't given up on the gravel idea yet, and if I am happy with the 28s I'll probably reserve this bike for that type of ride.
Here it is as of yesterday in Redmond at the halfway point of my short 20-miler:
DD
Still love the fit of this bike best of all. I put on a pair of 23mm Panaracer Pacelas I got free from my pal Jacob (who just celebrated his 60th yesterday) and they feel really nice. I might just take this on a jaunt up the Iron Horse Trail and through the Hyak Tunnel in a week or so with these tires. I also have a pair of 28mm Specialized Turbo LS vintage tires on the way that are probably going onto this bike - I think there's room and they'll do even better on the gravel. I haven't given up on the gravel idea yet, and if I am happy with the 28s I'll probably reserve this bike for that type of ride.
Here it is as of yesterday in Redmond at the halfway point of my short 20-miler:
DD
Last edited by Drillium Dude; 07-08-19 at 12:49 AM.
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#46
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Welcome back aboard, Senior Chief. Good to see you back amongst the groupetto here.
Bill
Bill
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I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
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I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
#47
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Cool story/adventure with the bike! She looks gorgeous as is. If those 28’s work out, you’ll be set to come back to Cino! IIRC, I think there’s a watch along a roadside waiting for you to come back...
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#48
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Regarding the protection of the frame, there are two schools of thought regarding finishes - a hard, barrier-type finish and a soft, treatable type of finish. Examples of the first would be a clear powdercoat, a poly finish, or even a hard shellac. The second finish would be more of an oil type finish - so, linseed oil, wax, etc.
I have a raw steel frame that I cold blued and then was looking for ways to protect it, so I did a lot of research. What I found was that the hard finishes always looked stunning, but never lasted - they would inevitably get rust worming under the finish, and when the first nick or crack formed, that was it - compromised.
I decided to go the second route, and used a product that was designed for the protection of raw untreated castings of undercarriage parts on classic cars. It goes on with heat, and dries as a hard, clear film that helps protect the metal. I imagine a combo approach of something like boiled linseed oil, then something like this protective film, and then the occasional wax treatments, would be excellent protection for the frame over time.
What I like about it is that while it does take more maintenance than something like a powdercoat, it is forever touch-up-able, and you can spot-treat and never have to worry about nicks, scratches, or gouges in paint or a finish.
Looks like your project is holding up great, and if you are looking for a bit more protection in the years to come, I'd check out some of the options listed above. Good luck!
I have a raw steel frame that I cold blued and then was looking for ways to protect it, so I did a lot of research. What I found was that the hard finishes always looked stunning, but never lasted - they would inevitably get rust worming under the finish, and when the first nick or crack formed, that was it - compromised.
I decided to go the second route, and used a product that was designed for the protection of raw untreated castings of undercarriage parts on classic cars. It goes on with heat, and dries as a hard, clear film that helps protect the metal. I imagine a combo approach of something like boiled linseed oil, then something like this protective film, and then the occasional wax treatments, would be excellent protection for the frame over time.
What I like about it is that while it does take more maintenance than something like a powdercoat, it is forever touch-up-able, and you can spot-treat and never have to worry about nicks, scratches, or gouges in paint or a finish.
Looks like your project is holding up great, and if you are looking for a bit more protection in the years to come, I'd check out some of the options listed above. Good luck!