Extreme climbing cassete
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Once again, you fail to understand a common cycling term. And yet, you act all snippy with the people who are using the term correctly.
Last edited by Koyote; 09-08-20 at 07:33 PM.
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As someone with ~25% grades within a 2 mile radius of my house, I will second the triple recommendation. I have a 24 up front and a 34 is the biggest on the back. It works. If not a triple, at least find a compact double that lets you get that low, or go all the way to a single with a small ring, of course you lose your large ring doing that.
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Literally what are you talking about? Once again, everything I've said is technically correct, and yet you people are acting like I've said something blasphemous. From context, it sounds like you are assuming "spin" implies a certain cadence, when in fact it does not. The way you are using the "spin" sounds more like you learned it from riding a stationary bike (i.e. spin class) than from anyone that rides outdoors. I use the word spin exactly as I've heard many, many experienced cyclists--including former pro cyclists--use the word. If that upsets you, then that's just your burden to bear from now on. Good luck.
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Literally what are you talking about? Once again, everything I've said is technically correct, and yet you people are acting like I've said something blasphemous. From context, it sounds like you are assuming "spin" implies a certain cadence, when in fact it does not. The way you are using the "spin" sounds more like you learned it from riding a stationary bike (i.e. spin class) than from anyone that rides outdoors. I use the word spin exactly as I've heard many, many experienced cyclists--including former pro cyclists--use the word. If that upsets you, then that's just your burden to bear from now on. Good luck.
Spinning typically denotes higher cadence work.
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No, it doesn't. Maybe you missed the context, but we're talking about climbing here, so it is implied that "spin" does not refer to hamster-wheeling along at a high rpm like you're on a stationary bike. Go watch any video where the GCN folks talk about "standing vs sitting" while climbing (I think they've made about a half dozen of those over the years). They always acknowledge that going uphill means your cadence will naturally slow down, and they show themselves climbing in the saddle while spinning at relatively slow cadences c.f. when they are on the flat.
#33
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As someone with ~25% grades within a 2 mile radius of my house, I will second the triple recommendation. I have a 24 up front and a 34 is the biggest on the back. It works. If not a triple, at least find a compact double that lets you get that low, or go all the way to a single with a small ring, of course you lose your large ring doing that.
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No, it doesn't. Maybe you missed the context, but we're talking about climbing here, so it is implied that "spin" does not refer to hamster-wheeling along at a high rpm like you're on a stationary bike. Go watch any video where the GCN folks talk about "standing vs sitting" while climbing (I think they've made about a half dozen of those over the years). They always acknowledge that going uphill means your cadence will naturally slow down, and they show themselves climbing in the saddle while spinning at relatively slow cadences c.f. when they are on the flat.
#35
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It's not as big as you think. When in the 34 ring the difference in ratio between your 11 and 12 cog is a bigger difference than your 30 and 34 cog.
(34/11) - (34/12) = .26
(34/30) - (34/34) = .13
So actually the change in gearing from that 4 tooth difference is only half the change of a 1 tooth on the small side of your cassette.
(34/11) - (34/12) = .26
(34/30) - (34/34) = .13
So actually the change in gearing from that 4 tooth difference is only half the change of a 1 tooth on the small side of your cassette.
90rpm in a 34-40 is about 2.69m/s on a 25mm 700c wheel, so:
Power from rolling resistance = 80 * 9.8 * .005 * 2.69 = 10.54W
Power from air resistance = .5 * 1.225 * .32 * (2.69 ^ 3) = 3.82W
Power from gravitation resistance = 80 * 9.8 * .25 * 2.69 = 527.24W
So the total power is about 541.6W, without factoring in bearing drag. If we assume that the rider in this 80kg bike+rider system is about 72kg, this is roughly 7.5W/kg effort, which is monstrous.
Dropping that down to 65rpm, we change the velocity to only 1.94m/s. Repeating the calculations with this new value, we get a total power of 389.28W, or 5.4W/kg. That's still a pretty intense effort for most cyclists. And 65rpm is really starting to lug for most people, even in climbing form.
From context, it sounds like you are assuming "spin" implies a certain cadence, when in fact it does not. The way you are using the "spin" sounds more like you learned it from riding a stationary bike (i.e. spin class) than from anyone that rides outdoors. I use the word spin exactly as I've heard many, many experienced cyclists--including former pro cyclists--use the word.
Last edited by HTupolev; 09-09-20 at 12:08 PM.
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Or you can stand on it in a slightly higher gearing at a lower cadence... or sit and mash at a lower cadence in a higher gear.
#37
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Due to age & medical issues, I simply can't "mash" because my knees will be screaming, so I "spin" a lower gear.
Now my "spin" is very slow (60-65), but for me it's NOT MASHING.
It's RELATIVE!
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I apologize if my terminology is not technically correct, I gladly accept being called out on any of it, as I don't really give a ... It is merely based on my riding and not on any research or classes, which I have never taken.
When I first started riding years ago,
Spinning was always, turning the cranks smoothly at a high rpm. BITD it was 90 or more.
Sprinting was getting out of the saddle for a quick climb or pass.
Grinding was basically a low cadence smooth spin and you just worked your way up; just take your time and enjoy the moment.
Mashing usually occurred when you couldn't smoothly grind up and needed a forceful up and down, or just down, stroke on the pedals.
Stair-stepping was used when all else failed and you just needed to get up the hill and you basically very slowly walked your bike up on the pedals, typically in a slightly higher gear.
Falling over usually occurred at the point of exhaustion and you couldn't stair step any more. But with enough practice one could anticipate this and successfully come to a complete stop and not fall.
I have mastered all of the above on any given occasion.
John
When I first started riding years ago,
Spinning was always, turning the cranks smoothly at a high rpm. BITD it was 90 or more.
Sprinting was getting out of the saddle for a quick climb or pass.
Grinding was basically a low cadence smooth spin and you just worked your way up; just take your time and enjoy the moment.
Mashing usually occurred when you couldn't smoothly grind up and needed a forceful up and down, or just down, stroke on the pedals.
Stair-stepping was used when all else failed and you just needed to get up the hill and you basically very slowly walked your bike up on the pedals, typically in a slightly higher gear.
Falling over usually occurred at the point of exhaustion and you couldn't stair step any more. But with enough practice one could anticipate this and successfully come to a complete stop and not fall.
I have mastered all of the above on any given occasion.
John
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I've been running 34:34 for a while. On local ~20% bits, likely be going 4 mph at 50 rpm or worse.
If I had a 40t, I could 'spin' at almost 60 rpm. Don't know about the sitting up apart, 'tho...
If I had a 40t, I could 'spin' at almost 60 rpm. Don't know about the sitting up apart, 'tho...
#41
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Maybe it should be a forum practice that we each provide a glossary of terms with every post we make. <grin>
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Let's assume that bike+rider is 80kg, or ~176lbs. Suppose they've got a CdA of .32, and their tires are enjoying a crr of .005 on the road surface they're riding. Let's assume that they're roughly at sea level, and the air density is 1.225kg per cubic meter, and the gravitational acceleration from the Earth is 9.8 m/(s^2).
90rpm in a 34-40 is about 2.69m/s on a 25mm 700c wheel, so:
Power from rolling resistance = 80 * 9.8 * .005 * 2.69 = 10.54W
Power from air resistance = .5 * 1.225 * .32 * (2.69 ^ 3) = 3.82W
Power from gravitation resistance = 80 * 9.8 * .25 * 2.69 = 527.24W
90rpm in a 34-40 is about 2.69m/s on a 25mm 700c wheel, so:
Power from rolling resistance = 80 * 9.8 * .005 * 2.69 = 10.54W
Power from air resistance = .5 * 1.225 * .32 * (2.69 ^ 3) = 3.82W
Power from gravitation resistance = 80 * 9.8 * .25 * 2.69 = 527.24W
My cadence here is probably about 70rpm, and my heart rate is 160+
Last edited by DiabloScott; 09-09-20 at 01:46 PM.
#43
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how about the 36:30 ..
I toured Europe West to East & back & British Isles years ago
high 13:50. Low 24:34..
2 foot gear works in steep hills.. too..
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Glenn
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Spinning absolutely requires sitting vs standing, it absolutely implies a smooth stroke as opposed to mashing; it more or less implies a cadence in the upper end of normal - 60 at least for climbing, 80 or more for flats.
Yeah, everybody's got a plan until they get punched in the mouth.
My cadence here is probably about 70rpm, and my heart rate is 160+
Yeah, everybody's got a plan until they get punched in the mouth.
My cadence here is probably about 70rpm, and my heart rate is 160+
Ha! Last time I did that, Strava showed 1.2 mph, 44 rpm, & 193w. Forgot shoes, 'tho & this was the end of the loop in tennis shoes.
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BoraxKid : I admire your self-confidence. When everyone - literally everyone – in a conversation is disagreeing with me, I will typically stop and reconsider my position.
But not you.
But not you.
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That 30-34 jump makes a ton of sense at the bottom of the cassette range. It does not feel all that big when you are grinding up a hill. 30-32-34 is a waste of cogs.
Also, going from a 32t big cog to a 34t big cog is no that big of a difference. If you are worried, go with a 36t big cog.
Also, going from a 32t big cog to a 34t big cog is no that big of a difference. If you are worried, go with a 36t big cog.
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That 30-34 jump makes a ton of sense at the bottom of the cassette range. It does not feel all that big when you are grinding up a hill. 30-32-34 is a waste of cogs.
Also, going from a 32t big cog to a 34t big cog is no that big of a difference. If you are worried, go with a 36t big cog.
Also, going from a 32t big cog to a 34t big cog is no that big of a difference. If you are worried, go with a 36t big cog.