Axle not seated properly
#1
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Axle not seated properly
Good afternoon from sunny upstate New York.
I just bought my girlfriend a used Scwhinn cruiser from Facebook marketplace with hopes of fixing it up a bit, and the rear axel is not seated all the way into the dropouts, and there is a small metal stabilizer bar connecting the axel to the frame below. See photos at the bottom of this post
My best guess is that the tires and/or the fenders are not original, and someone did this to create space between the tires and the fenders. I tried to seat the axel fully and it did make contact with the fender.
I was wondering 2 things:
1. Can anyone think of another reason this would be like this?
2. Do you all think it's dangerous for her to ride like that?
Thank you
I just bought my girlfriend a used Scwhinn cruiser from Facebook marketplace with hopes of fixing it up a bit, and the rear axel is not seated all the way into the dropouts, and there is a small metal stabilizer bar connecting the axel to the frame below. See photos at the bottom of this post
My best guess is that the tires and/or the fenders are not original, and someone did this to create space between the tires and the fenders. I tried to seat the axel fully and it did make contact with the fender.
I was wondering 2 things:
1. Can anyone think of another reason this would be like this?
2. Do you all think it's dangerous for her to ride like that?
Thank you
Last edited by jfny1978; 03-12-21 at 01:29 PM.
#2
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In order for the axle to slide farther into the dropouts the chain would have to be lengthened. The "metal stabilizer bar" is the reaction arm for the coaster brake. It can be easily moved along the chainstay by loosening the clamp that holds it to the frame. The axle is fine where it is
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Is the "stabilizer bar" the coaster brake? If so, I think you can loosen the bolt where it attaches to the chain stay, have Axel loosen the axle bolts, and move everything back in the drop-outs, and re-tighten everything. If the fender rubs, bend it or take it off.
FWIW, Axel is a guy's name, axle is what holds the wheel on (apart from the stabilizer bar).
FWIW, Axel is a guy's name, axle is what holds the wheel on (apart from the stabilizer bar).
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As above, it looks fine as-is. As long as the axle is not so far forward in the dropout that the nut is over the edge, there is no problem. THe horizontal drop out is designed to have the axle in the middle, not necessarily all the way in the back. It needs to be positioned to 'tension' the chain - actually so there is no tension in the chain but very little slack.
The arm is the 'brake reaction arm' which can be moved to allow the chain tension to be adjusted, but must not be removed for riding.
The arm is the 'brake reaction arm' which can be moved to allow the chain tension to be adjusted, but must not be removed for riding.
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The position in the dropout is determined solely by the chain. If the chain is too short the axle will be forward. Too long and it will be at the rear of the dropout and the chain may be too loose. In your picture, the chain seems to have the right tension and the axle is not too far forward so I think you're good to ride. If you really want the axle to be further back, you could add a half-link to the chain.
When adjusting the position of this wheel, you should do these in order:
1. Loosen the clamp for the coaster brake reaction arm so it allows the axle to slide.
2. Loosen both axle nuts.
3 Pull back on the wheel so the chain is taut, then tighten the chain side axle nut just enough that the axle doesn't shift.
4. Pull back on the non-chain side axle so that the wheel is centered between the chain stays. Tighten that nut just enough.
5. Check the chain for tightness. If too taut or too loose, loosen the right side nut and nudge just slightly to correct then retighten the nut. Loosen the left side nut and repeat step 4.
6. When everything looks good, tighten both axle nuts firmly.
When adjusting the position of this wheel, you should do these in order:
1. Loosen the clamp for the coaster brake reaction arm so it allows the axle to slide.
2. Loosen both axle nuts.
3 Pull back on the wheel so the chain is taut, then tighten the chain side axle nut just enough that the axle doesn't shift.
4. Pull back on the non-chain side axle so that the wheel is centered between the chain stays. Tighten that nut just enough.
5. Check the chain for tightness. If too taut or too loose, loosen the right side nut and nudge just slightly to correct then retighten the nut. Loosen the left side nut and repeat step 4.
6. When everything looks good, tighten both axle nuts firmly.
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The position in the dropout is determined solely by the chain. If the chain is too short the axle will be forward. Too long and it will be at the rear of the dropout and the chain may be too loose. In your picture, the chain seems to have the right tension and the axle is not too far forward so I think you're good to ride. If you really want the axle to be further back, you could add a half-link to the chain.
When adjusting the position of this wheel, you should do these in order:
1. Loosen the clamp for the coaster brake reaction arm so it allows the axle to slide.
2. Loosen both axle nuts.
3 Pull back on the wheel so the chain is taut, then tighten the chain side axle nut just enough that the axle doesn't shift.
4. Pull back on the non-chain side axle so that the wheel is centered between the chain stays. Tighten that nut just enough.
5. Check the chain for tightness. If too taut or too loose, loosen the right side nut and nudge just slightly to correct then retighten the nut. Loosen the left side nut and repeat step 4.
6. When everything looks good, tighten both axle nuts firmly.
When adjusting the position of this wheel, you should do these in order:
1. Loosen the clamp for the coaster brake reaction arm so it allows the axle to slide.
2. Loosen both axle nuts.
3 Pull back on the wheel so the chain is taut, then tighten the chain side axle nut just enough that the axle doesn't shift.
4. Pull back on the non-chain side axle so that the wheel is centered between the chain stays. Tighten that nut just enough.
5. Check the chain for tightness. If too taut or too loose, loosen the right side nut and nudge just slightly to correct then retighten the nut. Loosen the left side nut and repeat step 4.
6. When everything looks good, tighten both axle nuts firmly.
The chain should never be tight, it should be able to be moved up and down a few millimeters with your fingers..
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Is the "stabilizer bar" the coaster brake? If so, I think you can loosen the bolt where it attaches to the chain stay, have Axel loosen the axle bolts, and move everything back in the drop-outs, and re-tighten everything. If the fender rubs, bend it or take it off.
FWIW, Axel is a guy's name, axle is what holds the wheel on (apart from the stabilizer bar).
FWIW, Axel is a guy's name, axle is what holds the wheel on (apart from the stabilizer bar).