Are expensive cables/cable housings worth upgrading to on an entry-level bike?
#1
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Are expensive cables/cable housings worth upgrading to on an entry-level bike?
My Giant road bike with a Claris came with pretty basic Jagwire stuff. I noticed that even when properly adjusted, the front derailleur is pretty hard to shift (turns out my shifter housing at the ferrule end has started fraying). There's also some noticeable friction on the rear brake (noticeably not as smooth as the front one). I've already decided not to spend money on things that won't give a noticeable performance improvement. So far, I've only planned on replacing the saddle, the tires when they wear out, and maybe even the wheels in the future. Should quality cables/ cable housings be added to the list? Or are inexpensive cables and/or cable housings good enough for a low-end bike like this? If I do upgrade, I found a complete kit of Jagwire Pros for 40 USD. Are they worth it?
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yes...good clean housing and good cables are always a good thing.
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My Giant road bike with a Claris came with pretty basic Jagwire stuff. I noticed that even when properly adjusted, the front derailleur is pretty hard to shift (turns out my shifter housing at the ferrule end has started fraying). There's also some noticeable friction on the rear brake (noticeably not as smooth as the front one). I've already decided not to spend money on things that won't give a noticeable performance improvement. So far, I've only planned on replacing the saddle, the tires when they wear out, and maybe even the wheels in the future. Should quality cables/ cable housings be added to the list? Or are inexpensive cables and/or cable housings good enough for a low-end bike like this? If I do upgrade, I found a complete kit of Jagwire Pros for 40 USD. Are they worth it?
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I personally would not replace anything until it needs replacing. If something does not work properly, then I would do something about it. Otherwise I might wait until it breaks or becomes a problem.
Since I have not seen your bike, I can't say for sure what I would do.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
There are some on this forum who will tell you you should spend thousands on a bike, and anything cheaper is just not good enough. Then you should upgrade the already good parts on the bike. Some of us are not as rich as them, and need to live economically.
Since I have not seen your bike, I can't say for sure what I would do.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
There are some on this forum who will tell you you should spend thousands on a bike, and anything cheaper is just not good enough. Then you should upgrade the already good parts on the bike. Some of us are not as rich as them, and need to live economically.
Last edited by alo; 04-18-21 at 04:31 AM.
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You should go back to creeping peeps out by fantasizing about riding on their bikes.
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My Giant road bike with a Claris came with pretty basic Jagwire stuff. I noticed that even when properly adjusted, the front derailleur is pretty hard to shift (turns out my shifter housing at the ferrule end has started fraying). There's also some noticeable friction on the rear brake (noticeably not as smooth as the front one). I've already decided not to spend money on things that won't give a noticeable performance improvement. So far, I've only planned on replacing the saddle, the tires when they wear out, and maybe even the wheels in the future. Should quality cables/ cable housings be added to the list? Or are inexpensive cables and/or cable housings good enough for a low-end bike like this? If I do upgrade, I found a complete kit of Jagwire Pros for 40 USD. Are they worth it?
If you do go with replacing cables and housing.....
I never found a difference between standard vs higher end shifting cables and housing.
I do notice a real difference in brake cables and housing (more specifically the housing). Compressionless housing (such as the Jagwire Pro) make for more solid feeling braking over standard brake housing. Jagwire Pro is my go-to for brake cables and housing sets.
Last edited by Kapusta; 04-18-21 at 07:21 AM.
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I have the same dilemma with an older Giant bike. I won't get much selling the bike so I decided to fix it up a bit relative to cost/benefit. I'd go with the cable upgrade in your case. What are some good brand cables to order out there if I see a deal?
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That's a good price. You'll also need something to cut the housing cleanly (bike-specific cable cutter, dremel tool, or grinder/cutting wheel), so factor that into the cost.
Last edited by tyrion; 04-18-21 at 02:08 PM.
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I think that the most important factor isn't the quality of the cables and housings as much as the installation. Mainly, make sure you don't have any burrs where you've cut the housing.
If your front derailleur seems harder to shift up than you think it should, look at where the cable attaches. Often there is a little finger right in cable route. It's important the cable is routed OVER that finger. It changes the angle of leverage and makes a huge difference.
If your front derailleur seems harder to shift up than you think it should, look at where the cable attaches. Often there is a little finger right in cable route. It's important the cable is routed OVER that finger. It changes the angle of leverage and makes a huge difference.
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I don't think it's worth on expensive bikes let alone cheap bikes. Using normal Shimano or SRAM cables/housing, installing it correctly and replacing them in a timely fashion are more important.
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On the handful of bikes I've maintained, over the years, I have generally found good-quality cables and housings to be an improvement. Definitely keeping them clean and well-lubed is a major factor, too. As is proper install and routing (ie, no tight bends, "clean" cuts to the housing).
Currently using JagWire Pro for both brake and shifting, on a rebuilt '90s Trek 970. Like them. Definitely smoother and easier to shift/brake than with the older cabling, derailleurs, brakes.
Currently using JagWire Pro for both brake and shifting, on a rebuilt '90s Trek 970. Like them. Definitely smoother and easier to shift/brake than with the older cabling, derailleurs, brakes.
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on the other hand, you can always go di2, eTap and forego the cables altogether
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You state the cable is fraying at the housing end?
If that is the case, no amount of money on a cable will solve a poorly cut housing.
First step is to square off the housing ends and make sure there are no burrs that can catch on the cable. I dress mine with a bench grinder and make sure liner is open.
I use Jagwire kits, not Pro, off eBay without any issues. I have started buying Jagwire slick cables also off eBay pretty cheap.
I have experience with Claris shifters and brakes, but not the derailleurs. Shifters seem fine, but mated to higher level derailleurs. Brakes are worse than 20 year old 105’s.
John
If that is the case, no amount of money on a cable will solve a poorly cut housing.
First step is to square off the housing ends and make sure there are no burrs that can catch on the cable. I dress mine with a bench grinder and make sure liner is open.
I use Jagwire kits, not Pro, off eBay without any issues. I have started buying Jagwire slick cables also off eBay pretty cheap.
I have experience with Claris shifters and brakes, but not the derailleurs. Shifters seem fine, but mated to higher level derailleurs. Brakes are worse than 20 year old 105’s.
John
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He posted that the housing was fraying. Maybe the OP can clarify as I am not sure he's using the correct terminology.
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I can’t recall ever experiencing that.
John
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I wouldn't put a ton of money into that bike certainly cables and housing and pads and shoes are the best low cost upgrade but the problems you are experiencing might not be the cables and housing. Certainly yes if your cables are fraying that is bad and I would replace that if that is the case. But it just sounds like the quality of components aren't up to your riding. They certainly cost less initially but tend to have issues like this more often in the long term.
Tthe longer housing run you have the more friction you will have. Front brakes also have most of your power so they will always feel better when adjusted properly.
Tthe longer housing run you have the more friction you will have. Front brakes also have most of your power so they will always feel better when adjusted properly.
#22
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I saw "entry level" in the thread title and assumed it would be a question about a Kent bicycle.... GMC Denali, etc.
On a Giant (any Giant) I don't think I'd upgrade the cables unless they're truly in need of replacement (fraying, damaged etc).
On a Giant (any Giant) I don't think I'd upgrade the cables unless they're truly in need of replacement (fraying, damaged etc).
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The only way I'd consider expensive cable housing is if I had shifting problems with the inexpensive housing. Which frankly I don't see happening.
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I've been using the "normal" level of Shimano or Jagwire stuff on my bikes. Bikes mostly with mixes of 105/Ultegra. So long as I use a nice pair of sharp cable cutters, run the cables properly, assemble all properly, etc........it works out well.
I've always found that the shift performance should only really "get great" if you move between group sets with different cassette/ring ramps and different RD/shifter dynamics. Not really from cables. Cables are kind of a "base condition" thing to me. If done right, they should allow the group set to perform as intended. Not really improve it.
If the group set won't shift how you like, maybe other things need a return to "base" condition. Like getting shavings of cable out of 105 shifters that chew up cables over time. Chain/sprocket conditions. Etc....
I was in problems back in the day trying to not buy the nice set of cutters and by being a smarty pants trying to run cables "neater"........aka.....too tight of bends. Then I went down the "nicer housing/cable" path for a while. No improvement. Back to proper cuts, proper bends, proper assembly......all fine.
I've always found that the shift performance should only really "get great" if you move between group sets with different cassette/ring ramps and different RD/shifter dynamics. Not really from cables. Cables are kind of a "base condition" thing to me. If done right, they should allow the group set to perform as intended. Not really improve it.
If the group set won't shift how you like, maybe other things need a return to "base" condition. Like getting shavings of cable out of 105 shifters that chew up cables over time. Chain/sprocket conditions. Etc....
I was in problems back in the day trying to not buy the nice set of cutters and by being a smarty pants trying to run cables "neater"........aka.....too tight of bends. Then I went down the "nicer housing/cable" path for a while. No improvement. Back to proper cuts, proper bends, proper assembly......all fine.
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I use the Jagwire Sport brake and shift (bar-end shifters with the housing run fully under the tape) and haven't had problems.