Ti473

Are they named after their readings? because that's what I'm getting.

Ok let me present all the facts:

I bought this power meter used. It's an 8 bolt and came on a set of aluminum quarq cranks.
I switched it to a set of carbon quarq cranks. Torqued all the torx bolt in the correct pattern at the correct value.
Built the bike and rode it for about 120 miles and worked flawlessly.
Then yesterday I removed the cranks briefly and reinstalled them. Torqued them to 51nm as always.
Today I go for a spin and first I get no readings, then super high all over the place.
So I stopped and start troubleshooting:
First is calibration of course, I noticed I get some crazy numbers all over the place (for reference I was getting consistently around 800 before this issue, now it's all over from -30000 to +30000, their trouble shooting guide suggests that values outside of +/- 1500 are abnormal)
Then it's firmware upgrade, it needed one.
Then battery reboot.
Nothing helped, in the end I had a steady 0 reading for power. Cadence worked as expected, so there's not an issue with ANT+/BT connection, and battery shows "good".
When I get home I am going to try taking the crank arm off and check all the spider bolts and re-torque the crankarm.
If that doesn't work, I'm out of ideas. The only difference between now and when it worked is it's a little bit warmer today, around 82 degrees.

Any suggestions?
Thanks

dsbrantjr

First rule of troubleshooting electronics is check the power supply. Dead/low battery? Correct batteries? Some models use s AAA non-rechargeable Lithium battery, a regular AAA won't work.

Ti473

Thanks for trying to help, but did you read my post?
And if you are suggesting AAA batteries for a quarq power meter, you may not be familiar with one at all. They use coin cell batteries aka cr 2032

dsbrantjr

My reading comprehension skills are excellent, my mind-reading less so. I do not know which model of power meter you have since you did not provide it, but this Quarq DZero manual mentions both AAA (meter) and coin cell batteries (spider): https://www.sram.com/globalassets/do...ser-manual.pdf

Ti473

That's the new Rival AXS power meter which is the only one to use AAA and it's not a DZero.
The battery is a new lithium CR2032 and it shows in good levels both on the head unit (Wahoo Roam) and on the app. The contact points are good, as cadence readings (coming from the same power meter) are good and don't drop out at all, so it's communicating with the head unit just fine.

Barry2 

My Wahoo Roam shows the CR2032 battery in my Wahoo Tickr to be "Good" right up to the point the Tickr quits working completely.
Prior to the Tickr curling it's toes, it becomes tough to get the Roam to find it and stay connected for several rides.

So despite your CR2032 being indicated as "Good", there are most certainly shades of "Good" associated with other cycling industry products.

Change the Battery, don't change the battery, there are strange things at work here.
For example, some products are now claiming to be incompatible with the CR2032's that have been covered with the anti-kid bitter taste, specifically Duracell.
EDIT: is this specific enough - - OH look at that...
EDIT: Wahoo same issue
EDIT: Garmin too props to Garmin... first company to detail the WHY

So, I think a battery change is a good first step, especially when it involves an Energizer battery being used as the replacement. You decide what is good for you, it's simply MHO.

Barry

woodcraft

Quarg support is good. I've had them talk me through issues several times.

Ti473

I was fully prepared to eat crow and apologize if I sounded like an arrogant prick (sorry, I tend to be cranky when I have bike issues, no pun intended), but I apologize regardless if I came off that way, it wasn't my intention.
Anyway, I changed the battery and it didn't do anything, still whacky readings. So I did what I said I was gonna do, took the driveside crank off and re-torqued. Torque offset reading is back to a normal 815, everything works perfect again, I guess I may have overtorqued it a little the other day.
Thanks all!

Barry2 

Glad to hear it’s working again.
We all get a little torqued when we can’t get out on the bike.

Just don’t use a Duracell torque wrench.

And don’t get me started on Duracell AA’s that are so bad they even leak in the package before the expiry date.
Ive found Duracell AA’s 10-15 years old that didn’t leak…. They changed something!
I stopped using them and went to Energizer Lithium AA’s for my expensive stuff. The chemistry in Lithium is such that they contain nothing leakable.

All the best

Barry