Updating an old Raleigh racer
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Updating an old Raleigh racer
I have a 40 year old Raleigh racer with 27" wheels that I'm trying to use and make comfortable. I'm 72 and very fit but have a bad back.
I am replacing the racing seat with a wider seat so I can avoid groin discomfort.
I have raised the handlebars so I don't have to lean over so much but with the racing handlebars I'm still leaning forward about 20 degrees from vertical. On a long ride this puts a lot of strain on my arms.
Can I replace the handlebars with standard handlebars? Is the only limitation the length of the brake cables? Any recommendations on this?
A more radical change would be to upgrade the derailleur system. Mine has levers that are attached to the handlebar post. No numbers. Shifting is done by feel. This isn't a comfort issue but a convenience issue. Am I right in assuming an upgrade would require replacing the derailleurs and cables?
Thanks.
I am replacing the racing seat with a wider seat so I can avoid groin discomfort.
I have raised the handlebars so I don't have to lean over so much but with the racing handlebars I'm still leaning forward about 20 degrees from vertical. On a long ride this puts a lot of strain on my arms.
Can I replace the handlebars with standard handlebars? Is the only limitation the length of the brake cables? Any recommendations on this?
A more radical change would be to upgrade the derailleur system. Mine has levers that are attached to the handlebar post. No numbers. Shifting is done by feel. This isn't a comfort issue but a convenience issue. Am I right in assuming an upgrade would require replacing the derailleurs and cables?
Thanks.
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I have a 40 year old Raleigh racer with 27" wheels that I'm trying to use and make comfortable. I'm 72 and very fit but have a bad back.
I am replacing the racing seat with a wider seat so I can avoid groin discomfort.
I have raised the handlebars so I don't have to lean over so much but with the racing handlebars I'm still leaning forward about 20 degrees from vertical. On a long ride this puts a lot of strain on my arms.
Can I replace the handlebars with standard handlebars? Is the only limitation the length of the brake cables? Any recommendations on this?
A more radical change would be to upgrade the derailleur system. Mine has levers that are attached to the handlebar post. No numbers. Shifting is done by feel. This isn't a comfort issue but a convenience issue. Am I right in assuming an upgrade would require replacing the derailleurs and cables?
Thanks.
I am replacing the racing seat with a wider seat so I can avoid groin discomfort.
I have raised the handlebars so I don't have to lean over so much but with the racing handlebars I'm still leaning forward about 20 degrees from vertical. On a long ride this puts a lot of strain on my arms.
Can I replace the handlebars with standard handlebars? Is the only limitation the length of the brake cables? Any recommendations on this?
A more radical change would be to upgrade the derailleur system. Mine has levers that are attached to the handlebar post. No numbers. Shifting is done by feel. This isn't a comfort issue but a convenience issue. Am I right in assuming an upgrade would require replacing the derailleurs and cables?
Thanks.
I'm a fan of trekking or butterfly bars. Just think of them as a drop bar squished sort of flat. You will have to replace some parts to make this work (you will need new brake levers and thumb shifters plus the right cables). If you can do your own work, that will keep the costs down. These are the trekking bars on my Trek 950 to show you what they look like. That's an old school mountain bike but it will work on a road bike as well.
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It is not too difficult to go from this...
...to this...
In my case, I also opted for and recommend thumb shifters, a small extra upgrade that adds to the safety factor and does help with comfort...
And for a saddle that is the very epitome of comfort and in keeping with a vintage road bicycle's vintage appeal, the Brooks B17 is hard to beat...
But, at a minimium, you will most likely have to replace brake levers, cables and casings. That would be just about all you will need to replace except a set of handlebar grips. Best of luck with this simple and very effective upgrade. By the way, I will be 73 in a month or two. Welcome to the Bike Forums, a great place to share your vintage bicycle interest.
...to this...
In my case, I also opted for and recommend thumb shifters, a small extra upgrade that adds to the safety factor and does help with comfort...
And for a saddle that is the very epitome of comfort and in keeping with a vintage road bicycle's vintage appeal, the Brooks B17 is hard to beat...
But, at a minimium, you will most likely have to replace brake levers, cables and casings. That would be just about all you will need to replace except a set of handlebar grips. Best of luck with this simple and very effective upgrade. By the way, I will be 73 in a month or two. Welcome to the Bike Forums, a great place to share your vintage bicycle interest.
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Hey Randy - I always love seeing your builds - 100% classy. Happy Birthday! Tom
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It is not too difficult to go from this...
...to this...
In my case, I also opted for and recommend thumb shifters, a small extra upgrade that adds to the safety factor and does help with comfort...
And for a saddle that is the very epitome of comfort and in keeping with a vintage road bicycle's vintage appeal, the Brooks B17 is hard to beat...
But, at a minimium, you will most likely have to replace brake levers, cables and casings. That would be just about all you will need to replace except a set of handlebar grips. Best of luck with this simple and very effective upgrade. By the way, I will be 73 in a month or two. Welcome to the Bike Forums, a great place to share your vintage bicycle interest.
...to this...
In my case, I also opted for and recommend thumb shifters, a small extra upgrade that adds to the safety factor and does help with comfort...
And for a saddle that is the very epitome of comfort and in keeping with a vintage road bicycle's vintage appeal, the Brooks B17 is hard to beat...
But, at a minimium, you will most likely have to replace brake levers, cables and casings. That would be just about all you will need to replace except a set of handlebar grips. Best of luck with this simple and very effective upgrade. By the way, I will be 73 in a month or two. Welcome to the Bike Forums, a great place to share your vintage bicycle interest.
Also, unless you want to change the number of gears on your bike, there's no reason to have to change the derailleurs.
I looked at the profile pictures. I see the saddle nose is rotated down considerably and the bars are also rotated forward farther than most set-ups I've seen. The saddle position may be contributing to arm strain, as you're not going to be able to sit and pedal without having to support a good bit of your weight with your arms. If the position is usual, and you have the saddle nosed down lessen perineal pressure, perhaps a saddle like the Brooks B-17 Imperial (which has a cutout) would allow you to nose it up without triggering numbness. On the other hand, if the position is such to permit you to reach the bars and apply brakes, a different stem and bars may bring them higher and closer, so that you can bring the saddle nose closer to level, and further reduce the strain on your arms. If you have a shop that you like that does fittings, perhaps it would be worth the nominal cost to be evaluated and fitted. Alternately, you can rely on other friends who cycle, or internet research, or solicit input here, or at some other cycling-related group.
Hope we're offering useful information. Welcome to our community, and wishing you all the best in getting this set up to your satisfaction.
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#7
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Get an older, rigid frame mountain bike and build one of these.
Key components for you include - Brooks B-67 saddle and North Roads bars.
Key components for you include - Brooks B-67 saddle and North Roads bars.
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Thanks, but that saddle is being replaced. I had already removed it before taking the photos so I just put it back on for that.
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randyjawa:
Can you provide the specifics on the handlebars and the saddle bag??
Thanks.
Can you provide the specifics on the handlebars and the saddle bag??
Thanks.
Last edited by ellaryk; 06-14-21 at 02:12 PM.
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I ditched standard road stems years ago and started using stems designed to give a more upright position.
The most elegant solution is likely a ‘hybrid’ stem like on the first bike, but a threadless adapter and stem work well too
The most elegant solution is likely a ‘hybrid’ stem like on the first bike, but a threadless adapter and stem work well too
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#11
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Also, a Nitto Technomic stem will allow you to raise your handlebars significantly. You can get more upright by getting a short stem 50 mm or 60 mm.
I'd go for a Brooks B-67 with springs over a B-17 or B-17 Imperial for upright riding.
Good luck in getting your bike to work for you.
I'd go for a Brooks B-67 with springs over a B-17 or B-17 Imperial for upright riding.
Good luck in getting your bike to work for you.