Show us your Raleigh Super Course!
#176
elcraft
More for the threading discussion- My '75 SC MK II has standard British threading for the bottom bracket, BUT, a
Raleigh Proprietary Threaded Headset! It came with one of those "R" branded, Whitworth threaded seat post Binder bolts (promptly replaced with a generic Allen keyed binder). The drop outs are not Raleigh standard "Nottingham" pattern, but were also threaded for Whitworth fasteners that were common on all Nottingham-built three speeds. (I actually obtained a set from a smashed up Rudge). I think the Super Courses and Grand Sports were the most "mixed" in threading styles....
Raleigh Proprietary Threaded Headset! It came with one of those "R" branded, Whitworth threaded seat post Binder bolts (promptly replaced with a generic Allen keyed binder). The drop outs are not Raleigh standard "Nottingham" pattern, but were also threaded for Whitworth fasteners that were common on all Nottingham-built three speeds. (I actually obtained a set from a smashed up Rudge). I think the Super Courses and Grand Sports were the most "mixed" in threading styles....
Last edited by elcraft; 06-27-10 at 09:59 PM. Reason: spelling
#177
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Weird. I hope my headset never wears out. I remember the Gran Sport I had a long time ago had that headset. I know the look of a Raleigh headset.
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#178
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While it is inherently better to have standard threading, I think people are too concerned about it.
I may not have the same amount of experience as many of you, but in servicing many old battered, abused and neglected bikes, I have yet to find one where the bb, cups or races were unserviceable. A good cleaning and fresh grease is generally all that is needed.
- So I think people worry too much. I know I'm biased, but I certainly would not let threading concerns get in the way of purchasing an old SC.
I may not have the same amount of experience as many of you, but in servicing many old battered, abused and neglected bikes, I have yet to find one where the bb, cups or races were unserviceable. A good cleaning and fresh grease is generally all that is needed.
- So I think people worry too much. I know I'm biased, but I certainly would not let threading concerns get in the way of purchasing an old SC.
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#179
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auchencrow, it will happen to you one day. I've had a great many unserviceable bottom brackets. Headsets don't go as easily, but I've had to replace a few there, too. Oddly, Campagnolo Record headsets wore out the most, because it's critical to install them right.
Also, most Super Courses came with cottered cranks, and even if they're in good shape, there's good reason to want to replace them. First is the annoyance of removing the cotters. Then there's the annoyance of putting cotters in. And nowadays, it's hard to find decent quality cotters. Finally, there's the weight.
Also, most Super Courses came with cottered cranks, and even if they're in good shape, there's good reason to want to replace them. First is the annoyance of removing the cotters. Then there's the annoyance of putting cotters in. And nowadays, it's hard to find decent quality cotters. Finally, there's the weight.
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#180
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Raleigh headsets do seem to last forever. I've overhauled some that seemingly were running without grease for a few decades, and the races were just fine.
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#181
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auchencrow, it will happen to you one day. I've had a great many unserviceable bottom brackets. Headsets don't go as easily, but I've had to replace a few there, too. Oddly, Campagnolo Record headsets wore out the most, because it's critical to install them right.
Also, most Super Courses came with cottered cranks, and even if they're in good shape, there's good reason to want to replace them. First is the annoyance of removing the cotters. Then there's the annoyance of putting cotters in. And nowadays, it's hard to find decent quality cotters. Finally, there's the weight.
Also, most Super Courses came with cottered cranks, and even if they're in good shape, there's good reason to want to replace them. First is the annoyance of removing the cotters. Then there's the annoyance of putting cotters in. And nowadays, it's hard to find decent quality cotters. Finally, there's the weight.
Insofar as cotters are concerned, I've become reasonably proficient at doing them. I think my problems I had with them in the past had much more to do with (my own) shoddy workmanship. I'm kind of torn now between the weight and the aesthetics - I think a chromed cottered crank is more classic looking - but they sure are heavy.
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#182
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+1 on the good looks of cottered cranks. I love the way they look, and I think if you work on them often enough you can get pretty good at em. The issue I have had is the initial removal of the cotter after you first take possession of the bike. Most of the time it wasn't greased or is stuck in place with crusty 30 year old grease and grime...If you install them with grease and remove them once a year to re-grease the BB they become much simpler to work on.
Tom is right about quality cotters though. I know there's guy on ebay who sells various grades (A thru D) of cotters...I've only ever used the cheap 3-bux-for-a-bag-of-10 cotters and my 200ish pounds has deformed the flats on more than one set of cotters and required its replacement. Quality cotters would eliminate that problem.
What the verdict on the V-O threadless BB? I've always heard the conventional wisdom is don't use a threadless BB unless you're out of options....is this one good enough where that's no longer the case?
I agree, there's no reason to let the threading on a Super Course freak anyone out. If you don't like cotters you can always swap in a 73mm spindle to convert to cotterless.
Tom is right about quality cotters though. I know there's guy on ebay who sells various grades (A thru D) of cotters...I've only ever used the cheap 3-bux-for-a-bag-of-10 cotters and my 200ish pounds has deformed the flats on more than one set of cotters and required its replacement. Quality cotters would eliminate that problem.
What the verdict on the V-O threadless BB? I've always heard the conventional wisdom is don't use a threadless BB unless you're out of options....is this one good enough where that's no longer the case?
I agree, there's no reason to let the threading on a Super Course freak anyone out. If you don't like cotters you can always swap in a 73mm spindle to convert to cotterless.
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#183
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73mm is what measurement?
And actually, I agree that threading shouldn't stop you. Same for a French bike.
And actually, I agree that threading shouldn't stop you. Same for a French bike.
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#184
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73mm between the races. aka a "7" size Spindle.
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#186
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I think you may have a forgery.
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#190
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Very clean , I dig it. Those aren't the original hoods are they? (They're in too good of shape!) I know I'll need new one's soon and I'm looking for an affordable replacement.
#192
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Very nice job.
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English threaded nervex bb shell, raleigh threaded fork. A tange passage steel headset worked great. The threaded portion of the top race was thin enough to work with the 26tpi threads. The locknut went on with some force, but didnt damage the threads.
#194
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I have a Carlton made of butted 531, with cutout lugs no less? It was made around 1980, and this one looks a year or two newer. Not really higher quality, just a different country of origin. Some would argue the Carlton was of higher quality, but this one looks about even to mine. The BL looks very much like the original RD/FD on my 83 Trek 560, so that would probably be a good guess as to the year this one was made. Yes, it's pretty cool still, and I wouldn't mind owning it myself . I've always been a big fan of the copper colored Raleighs.,,,,BD
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I have seen lots of inconsistencies of the older super courses. Mine is missing the brazing around one of the features of the lower headlug. It also showed some overheating around the bb shell. File marks, poorly joined seatlugs. I still love it for all its britishness. The ones marked Carlton have better workmanship from what ive seen. The different country of origin made a difference in quality for the raleighs. I prefer a carlton sourced bike every day of the week, but thats just me. The Japanese SuperCourses are fantastic machines, with a wonderful build quality, with full 531db. Plus, the Suntour offerings will outshift the simplex ones any day.
#196
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got around to putting a TA crankset on my '72 today. The 1st gen Cyclone FD is handling the 50-28 double with no problem.
(and I got that missing fender/rack mount screw thing all fixed up too )
(and I got that missing fender/rack mount screw thing all fixed up too )
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#197
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It looks like a 1972 Sojourn?? Nice work, I love that bike!,,,,BD
I mean it is eerie, hehe.. FWIW, I want to paint the Burley Tandem to have that same cream/ honey wrap and saddle look. Someday:-)
https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3439/...18414ae34a.jpg
I mean it is eerie, hehe.. FWIW, I want to paint the Burley Tandem to have that same cream/ honey wrap and saddle look. Someday:-)
https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3439/...18414ae34a.jpg
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Last edited by Bikedued; 07-18-10 at 07:45 PM.
#198
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Thanks, I'm kind of going for a comfortable day tourer set up. I just gotta get the motor up to speed now
Next up for this is repacking the hubs..I'm a bit embarrassed to say how little attention I paid to the hub bearings last spring when I built the wheels I did the pedal bearings today when I put them on the crankset, also much overdue.
Next up for this is repacking the hubs..I'm a bit embarrassed to say how little attention I paid to the hub bearings last spring when I built the wheels I did the pedal bearings today when I put them on the crankset, also much overdue.
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#200
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