What crankset and Cassette for me with RED Etap
#1
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What crankset and Cassette for me with RED Etap
I am still trying to get ahold of RED Etap but hopefully I can get a HRD groupset soon. My brain keeps switching what crankset and Cassette to get - Most bought from manufacturer bikes seem to have 48/35 and 10/28.
My current Ultegra setup is 52/36 and 11/30.
I am a lean 6'3(189cm) and 220lbs(100kg) so certainly a heavier rider it seems; and tend to try sit 90 - 95 rpm on my rides.
I currently live in very flat Houston but moving back to Scotland in July so it will certainly start to get hilly; right now I am leaning towards getting the RED Etap AXS in 50/37 and 10/33 so I will get the best of both worlds.
Opinions?
My current Ultegra setup is 52/36 and 11/30.
I am a lean 6'3(189cm) and 220lbs(100kg) so certainly a heavier rider it seems; and tend to try sit 90 - 95 rpm on my rides.
I currently live in very flat Houston but moving back to Scotland in July so it will certainly start to get hilly; right now I am leaning towards getting the RED Etap AXS in 50/37 and 10/33 so I will get the best of both worlds.
Opinions?
#2
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FWIW, IMO 11t cogs blow chunks and 10t cogs blow em 10% harder.
They're closer to polygons than circles. Look up chordal action.
I'd say go the 50/37 so you don't need any stinkin' 10t.
They're closer to polygons than circles. Look up chordal action.
I'd say go the 50/37 so you don't need any stinkin' 10t.
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List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
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I have 48/35 and like it.
The 35 is big enough to be useful on the flats if you are not in a hurry, and the 48 is small enough that you can stay in it a lot as well.
The 35 is big enough to be useful on the flats if you are not in a hurry, and the 48 is small enough that you can stay in it a lot as well.
#4
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With SRAM AXS, all cassettes start with a 10T. A 48/10 is the same as a 53/11, like most pro riders use. A 46/10 is a little taller gear than a 53/12.
A 100kg rider with a height of 1.9m has a body mass index of 27.7. Lean would be 22 or below. Mine is 22 at present, but I should lose another 2-3 pounds in the next month to get down to a little over 21.
You're likely to need fairly low gearing for the hills in Scotland. I'd try the 48/35 or 46/33, with the 10-33.
https://www.topendsports.com/sport/c...urdefrance.htm
https://www.cdc.gov/healthyweight/as...bmi/index.html
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geog...ish%20mainland.
A 100kg rider with a height of 1.9m has a body mass index of 27.7. Lean would be 22 or below. Mine is 22 at present, but I should lose another 2-3 pounds in the next month to get down to a little over 21.
You're likely to need fairly low gearing for the hills in Scotland. I'd try the 48/35 or 46/33, with the 10-33.
https://www.topendsports.com/sport/c...urdefrance.htm
https://www.cdc.gov/healthyweight/as...bmi/index.html
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geog...ish%20mainland.
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2. BMI is a fairly useless figure for athletes, especially taller athletes.
3. What does your BMI have to do with his choice of chain ring?
#6
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thank you.
thank you.
With SRAM AXS, all cassettes start with a 10T. A 48/10 is the same as a 53/11, like most pro riders use. A 46/10 is a little taller gear than a 53/12.
A 100kg rider with a height of 1.9m has a body mass index of 27.7. Lean would be 22 or below. Mine is 22 at present, but I should lose another 2-3 pounds in the next month to get down to a little over 21.
You're likely to need fairly low gearing for the hills in Scotland. I'd try the 48/35 or 46/33, with the 10-33.
https://www.topendsports.com/sport/c...urdefrance.htm
https://www.cdc.gov/healthyweight/as...bmi/index.html
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geog...ish%20mainland.
A 100kg rider with a height of 1.9m has a body mass index of 27.7. Lean would be 22 or below. Mine is 22 at present, but I should lose another 2-3 pounds in the next month to get down to a little over 21.
You're likely to need fairly low gearing for the hills in Scotland. I'd try the 48/35 or 46/33, with the 10-33.
https://www.topendsports.com/sport/c...urdefrance.htm
https://www.cdc.gov/healthyweight/as...bmi/index.html
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geog...ish%20mainland.
BMI is one horrible measure of anything. I have been obese officially since I was 18 I think. You have no idea how much muscle mass I have.
I definitely think the 33 might be certainly needed, friends are already saying they are going to take me on hills since I am so used to flat bike tracks here in Houston.
the first link was interesting along with the Scottish one, never read it. I will be in the north east so close enough to the mountains.
thank you.
Certainly agree its useless except for sedentary individuals. I have a degree in Sports Science and in a lecture it just tore BMI apart.
I guess my chin might hit the brakes when I am tucking! But I guess weight and what gearing I will need up a hill to get me there!
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I wonder if someone does junior cassettes for that gear yet?
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
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So poopy
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
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If you rode it for a while you would see.
Also as I am not a pro dialling it up to 400w for any length of time the 10 and even 11 only get used for short periods where a few percent inefficiency is not important.
#11
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The 10t is important to get the gearing range as a whole to work as it should.
If you rode it for a while you would see.
Also as I am not a pro dialling it up to 400w for any length of time the 10 and even 11 only get used for short periods where a few percent inefficiency is not important.
If you rode it for a while you would see.
Also as I am not a pro dialling it up to 400w for any length of time the 10 and even 11 only get used for short periods where a few percent inefficiency is not important.
I am seeing more and more top of the range bikes with RED. so many reasons for this but for me I just love the way it changes gear over Shimano.
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Lol, SRAM is just gonna turn around in a few years and say, here's the latest marginal gain: bigger, more efficient cogs and rings. They're just giving themselves somewhere to go.
I'm gonna laugh like a drain when I see an AXS bike rocking oversized pulleys...
I'm gonna laugh like a drain when I see an AXS bike rocking oversized pulleys...
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Last edited by Kimmo; 05-04-21 at 06:33 PM.