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What crankset and Cassette for me with RED Etap

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

What crankset and Cassette for me with RED Etap

Old 05-02-21, 01:10 PM
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scottydonald
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What crankset and Cassette for me with RED Etap

I am still trying to get ahold of RED Etap but hopefully I can get a HRD groupset soon. My brain keeps switching what crankset and Cassette to get - Most bought from manufacturer bikes seem to have 48/35 and 10/28.

My current Ultegra setup is 52/36 and 11/30.

I am a lean 6'3(189cm) and 220lbs(100kg) so certainly a heavier rider it seems; and tend to try sit 90 - 95 rpm on my rides.

I currently live in very flat Houston but moving back to Scotland in July so it will certainly start to get hilly; right now I am leaning towards getting the RED Etap AXS in 50/37 and 10/33 so I will get the best of both worlds.

Opinions?
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Old 05-02-21, 05:18 PM
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Kimmo 
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FWIW, IMO 11t cogs blow chunks and 10t cogs blow em 10% harder.

They're closer to polygons than circles. Look up chordal action.

I'd say go the 50/37 so you don't need any stinkin' 10t.
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Old 05-02-21, 06:05 PM
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I have 48/35 and like it.
The 35 is big enough to be useful on the flats if you are not in a hurry, and the 48 is small enough that you can stay in it a lot as well.
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Old 05-03-21, 08:01 AM
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With SRAM AXS, all cassettes start with a 10T. A 48/10 is the same as a 53/11, like most pro riders use. A 46/10 is a little taller gear than a 53/12.

A 100kg rider with a height of 1.9m has a body mass index of 27.7. Lean would be 22 or below. Mine is 22 at present, but I should lose another 2-3 pounds in the next month to get down to a little over 21.

You're likely to need fairly low gearing for the hills in Scotland. I'd try the 48/35 or 46/33, with the 10-33.

https://www.topendsports.com/sport/c...urdefrance.htm

https://www.cdc.gov/healthyweight/as...bmi/index.html

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geog...ish%20mainland.
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Old 05-03-21, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveSSS
A 100kg rider with a height of 1.9m has a body mass index of 27.7. Lean would be 22 or below. Mine is 22 at present, but I should lose another 2-3 pounds in the next month to get down to a little over 21.
1. You can be very lean at 6'3" and 220 lbs.
2. BMI is a fairly useless figure for athletes, especially taller athletes.
3. What does your BMI have to do with his choice of chain ring?
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Old 05-03-21, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Kimmo
FWIW, IMO 11t cogs blow chunks and 10t cogs blow em 10% harder.

They're closer to polygons than circles. Look up chordal action.

I'd say go the 50/37 so you don't need any stinkin' 10t.
haha. yes seems I would very rarely if ever use the 10 so having the extra will help.

thank you.

Originally Posted by Dean V
I have 48/35 and like it.
The 35 is big enough to be useful on the flats if you are not in a hurry, and the 48 is small enough that you can stay in it a lot as well.
I think that is why most bikes come with the 48/35.

thank you.

Originally Posted by DaveSSS
With SRAM AXS, all cassettes start with a 10T. A 48/10 is the same as a 53/11, like most pro riders use. A 46/10 is a little taller gear than a 53/12.

A 100kg rider with a height of 1.9m has a body mass index of 27.7. Lean would be 22 or below. Mine is 22 at present, but I should lose another 2-3 pounds in the next month to get down to a little over 21.

You're likely to need fairly low gearing for the hills in Scotland. I'd try the 48/35 or 46/33, with the 10-33.

https://www.topendsports.com/sport/c...urdefrance.htm

https://www.cdc.gov/healthyweight/as...bmi/index.html

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geog...ish%20mainland.
interesting thanks.

BMI is one horrible measure of anything. I have been obese officially since I was 18 I think. You have no idea how much muscle mass I have.

I definitely think the 33 might be certainly needed, friends are already saying they are going to take me on hills since I am so used to flat bike tracks here in Houston.

the first link was interesting along with the Scottish one, never read it. I will be in the north east so close enough to the mountains.

thank you.

Originally Posted by tomato coupe
1. You can be very lean at 6'3" and 220 lbs.
2. BMI is a fairly useless figure for athletes, especially taller athletes.
3. What does your BMI have to do with his choice of chain ring?
I know. I was lean and 106kg when I played rugby; I have shrunk a lot in the last few years intentionally, now my chest no longer gets in the way at golf! It's harder than you think to loose mass when you still want as much strength and power as possible.
Certainly agree its useless except for sedentary individuals. I have a degree in Sports Science and in a lecture it just tore BMI apart.
I guess my chin might hit the brakes when I am tucking! But I guess weight and what gearing I will need up a hill to get me there!
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Old 05-03-21, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by scottydonald
haha. yes seems I would very rarely if ever use the 10 so having the extra will help.

thank you.
Except I dunno if you can find an AXS compatible cassette without a 10t...

I wonder if someone does junior cassettes for that gear yet?
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Old 05-03-21, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Kimmo
Except I dunno if you can find an AXS compatible cassette without a 10t...

I wonder if someone does junior cassettes for that gear yet?

no you can't; thee is now bigger cranksets but they have stuck with the 10 on the new bigger cassettes.
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Old 05-04-21, 07:47 AM
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So poopy
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Old 05-04-21, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Kimmo
Except I dunno if you can find an AXS compatible cassette without a 10t...

I wonder if someone does junior cassettes for that gear yet?
The 10t is important to get the gearing range as a whole to work as it should.
If you rode it for a while you would see.
Also as I am not a pro dialling it up to 400w for any length of time the 10 and even 11 only get used for short periods where a few percent inefficiency is not important.
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Old 05-04-21, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Dean V
The 10t is important to get the gearing range as a whole to work as it should.
If you rode it for a while you would see.
Also as I am not a pro dialling it up to 400w for any length of time the 10 and even 11 only get used for short periods where a few percent inefficiency is not important.
Very true.

I am seeing more and more top of the range bikes with RED. so many reasons for this but for me I just love the way it changes gear over Shimano.
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Old 05-04-21, 06:28 PM
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Lol, SRAM is just gonna turn around in a few years and say, here's the latest marginal gain: bigger, more efficient cogs and rings. They're just giving themselves somewhere to go.

I'm gonna laugh like a drain when I see an AXS bike rocking oversized pulleys...

Last edited by Kimmo; 05-04-21 at 06:33 PM.
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