Has this been done, I wonder?
#1
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Has this been done, I wonder?
I put my '87 Ironman firmly in my benchtop stand, shifted to 12th gear, carefully gripped the seat stay, and hand-pedaled like crazy.
Then, I started my stopwatch to see how long the wheel would spin.
In both trials the time was about 2 minutes, 15 seconds.
(I have a significant hub wobble, likely decreasing my time.)
It's kind of a goofy bench test, but I had nothing better to do!
Like a KOM challenge, I'm certain someone will top this oddball record.
Then, I started my stopwatch to see how long the wheel would spin.
In both trials the time was about 2 minutes, 15 seconds.
(I have a significant hub wobble, likely decreasing my time.)
It's kind of a goofy bench test, but I had nothing better to do!
Like a KOM challenge, I'm certain someone will top this oddball record.
#2
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Front wheels go longer. I 'threw' a Mavic 501 front wheel that must have gone for at least a few minutes. As far as rears are concerned, I suspect the quiet freehubs are better...Shimano 105, RSX etc. Noise = friction.
Heavy rims and tires would also help.
Heavy rims and tires would also help.
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Needs better rules.
My best spinner is a tandem front wheel 40 spokes with heavy rim and heavy Schwalbe tires.
edit: Oooops missed #2
My best spinner is a tandem front wheel 40 spokes with heavy rim and heavy Schwalbe tires.
edit: Oooops missed #2
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Clubman, not to be contrary or disagreeable, as far as freewheels are concerned, I'd say noise = appropriate lubrication. Too much lube, whether grease or oil in the pawl and ratchet teeth region, causes less noise at the cost of extra friction. I've worked on silent freewheels which were gummed up with excessive lubrication. Just my two cents.
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-----
Just look at that clear workbench!
I am envious.
---
Often do a similar action on cycles with five-piece rear hubs.
Lay the machine down on its non-drive side and spin the rear wheel like a roulette wheel.
Watch gear block for wobble.
Swaged on drive side flange often works loose with time.
When it does the gear block is permitted to wobble about.
Happily, flange can't go anywhere so there is no danger...
-----
Just look at that clear workbench!
I am envious.
---
Often do a similar action on cycles with five-piece rear hubs.
Lay the machine down on its non-drive side and spin the rear wheel like a roulette wheel.
Watch gear block for wobble.
Swaged on drive side flange often works loose with time.
When it does the gear block is permitted to wobble about.
Happily, flange can't go anywhere so there is no danger...
-----
#7
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Please - come to my house and organize my work space...👍
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I have 1960-ish wheel - Campy hub and I can’t remember the spoke count or rim brand but the front wheel is a perpetual motion machine. First time I spun it and walked away for at least 4 or 5 minutes and it was still spinning. I give credit to the white lith-grease and the fabulous Campy hub.
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I love the process of digging for treasure and finding more treasure along the way. I'm not that creative in general so I regularly benefit from the contained chaos that is often my process.
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Clubman, not to be contrary or disagreeable, as far as freewheels are concerned, I'd say noise = appropriate lubrication. Too much lube, whether grease or oil in the pawl and ratchet teeth region, causes less noise at the cost of extra friction. I've worked on silent freewheels which were gummed up with excessive lubrication. Just my two cents.
But there was a generation of very quiet freehubs if I'm not mistaken?
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Clubman, not to be contrary or disagreeable, as far as freewheels are concerned, I'd say noise = appropriate lubrication. Too much lube, whether grease or oil in the pawl and ratchet teeth region, causes less noise at the cost of extra friction. I've worked on silent freewheels which were gummed up with excessive lubrication. Just my two cents.
-Kurt
Last edited by cudak888; 12-21-22 at 12:29 PM.
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Nice bike and workbench!
Tim
Tim
#17
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If you try that with a well built Super Record wheelset, you can swap the stopwatch for a calendar...
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@rccardr is famous in RC car racing circuits for finding loopholes in the rules to get more "HP" out of his cars. I don't want to pass along any of the secrets he shared with me in a conversation many moons ago, but there it is.
If we've got a competition here, I suggest that someone use a portacatena dropout and chain holder. It was designed for quick rear wheel changes, but there's another use - shift into the chain holder when you get to escape velocity BITD we called it Portugese overdrive, useful when using Crampandgoslow kit. No freewheel pawl friction, it'll spin as long as hub bearings and wheel aerodyamics allow.
If we've got a competition here, I suggest that someone use a portacatena dropout and chain holder. It was designed for quick rear wheel changes, but there's another use - shift into the chain holder when you get to escape velocity BITD we called it Portugese overdrive, useful when using Crampandgoslow kit. No freewheel pawl friction, it'll spin as long as hub bearings and wheel aerodyamics allow.
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Mmmmmm.
Many bearing secrets were developed that cannot be shared among the unitiated.
Many bearing secrets were developed that cannot be shared among the unitiated.
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