Cantilever brake pad length
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 171
Bikes: Peugeot PR-10, Peugeot UO-8, Boeris racing bike, AMF Roadmaster Renegade, Gitane Gypsy Sport, various Schwinn muscle bikes, Schwinn Super Sport, Panasonic DX-4000, Palo Alto Campy equipped bike
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 48 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
2 Posts
Cantilever brake pad length
I replaced the cantilevers on an old cross bike I'm re-building with some Radius brand ones. They came with very long 70mm brake pads which look like they would have to ride partly inside the fork blades and seat stays since they are too long to clear them. This means when the brakes are released to remove a wheel the cantilevers would be caught by the inside of the blades/stays rather than being able to flop all the way open like the original ones on the bike did which had shorter 50mm pads. Is this the ideal set-up for this type of bike or is it better to have the shorter 50mm pads so the cantilevers can open all the way up when they are released? The concern I have running longer pads inside the fork blades and seat stays is that when released to remove a wheel the tires wouldn't clear them since they are so wide (38mm). Also installing the pads would be a major pain since they would have to be installed after the brakes were already set to an approximate position which seem like a lot of trial and error.
Thanks for any insight into this.
Thanks for any insight into this.
#2
Randomhead
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,394
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,694 Times
in
2,516 Posts
You are better off with shorter pads.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 171
Bikes: Peugeot PR-10, Peugeot UO-8, Boeris racing bike, AMF Roadmaster Renegade, Gitane Gypsy Sport, various Schwinn muscle bikes, Schwinn Super Sport, Panasonic DX-4000, Palo Alto Campy equipped bike
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 48 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
2 Posts
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 2,468
Bikes: Co-Motion Cappuccino Tandem,'88 Bob Jackson Touring, Co-Motion Cascadia Touring, Open U.P., Ritchie Titanium Breakaway, Frances Cycles SmallHaul cargo bike. Those are the permanent ones; others wander in and out of the stable occasionally as well.
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 427 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 339 Times
in
229 Posts
You can deflate the tire to get the wheel off and on, then reinflate. I'd go with shorter pads though.
#5
Guest
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,888
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 3,270 Times
in
1,439 Posts
Mine are like that, and yes, it's a PITA to remove the front wheel. But the pad installation/adjustment isn't any more difficult than with shorter pads; I use a "fourth hand" tool to help.
Last edited by Rolla; 09-17-21 at 11:06 PM.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 171
Bikes: Peugeot PR-10, Peugeot UO-8, Boeris racing bike, AMF Roadmaster Renegade, Gitane Gypsy Sport, various Schwinn muscle bikes, Schwinn Super Sport, Panasonic DX-4000, Palo Alto Campy equipped bike
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 48 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
2 Posts
The only "cantilever" brakes I've done up until now are the Mafac centerpulls on my two Peugeot road bikes and they both have standard length road brake pads on them.. I use a 3rd hand brake tool to hold the pads close to the rim and adjust the straddle and brake cables by hand, trial and error style until I get them how I like them.
The Radius cantilever brakes take brake pads with threaded studs and nuts like a road bike but I believe need spacers to hold them proud of the rim side mounting surface I believe which most shorter road brake pads don't have.
#7
Guest
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,888
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 3,270 Times
in
1,439 Posts
A fourth hand tool, or a 3rd hand tool? A 4th hand tool just pulls the cable tight whereas a 3rd hand tool holds the brake calipers (or cantilevers) up against the rim. If you would use a 3rd hand tool to hold the cantilevers while you slid the long brake pads under the fork blades/set stays to install them, you would have to find a tool with just the right amount of tension to hold the cantilevers far enough away from the rims to allow the brake pads to be installed, unless I'm missing something.
Last edited by Rolla; 09-18-21 at 01:43 PM.
#8
Thread Killer
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 12,431
Bikes: 15 Kinesis Racelight 4S, 76 Motebecane Gran Jubilée, 17 Dedacciai Gladiatore2, 12 Breezer Venturi, 09 Dahon Mariner, 12 Mercier Nano, 95 DeKerf Team SL, 19 Tern Rally, 21 Breezer Doppler Cafe+, 19 T-Lab X3, 91 Serotta CII, 23 3T Strada
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3133 Post(s)
Liked 1,700 Times
in
1,027 Posts
Haha! **** cantis!
#9
Guest
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,888
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 3,270 Times
in
1,439 Posts
Someone needs a nap. Again.
#10
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,608
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10954 Post(s)
Liked 7,482 Times
in
4,184 Posts
#11
Thread Killer
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 12,431
Bikes: 15 Kinesis Racelight 4S, 76 Motebecane Gran Jubilée, 17 Dedacciai Gladiatore2, 12 Breezer Venturi, 09 Dahon Mariner, 12 Mercier Nano, 95 DeKerf Team SL, 19 Tern Rally, 21 Breezer Doppler Cafe+, 19 T-Lab X3, 91 Serotta CII, 23 3T Strada
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3133 Post(s)
Liked 1,700 Times
in
1,027 Posts
It’s pitiful to see people struggling to solve bike issues were solved literally 30 years ago…then solved again about 18 years ago. Super sad.
Seriously, slap some V-brakes on that thing at least and start enjoying the fruits of progress.
Seriously, slap some V-brakes on that thing at least and start enjoying the fruits of progress.
#12
Randomhead
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,394
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,694 Times
in
2,516 Posts
If anything, I hate v brakes more than I hate cantis. OP, there are brake shoes that aren't as long on the frame side. I think they must be koolstop, but I'm not sure what they are called.
#13
Thread Killer
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 12,431
Bikes: 15 Kinesis Racelight 4S, 76 Motebecane Gran Jubilée, 17 Dedacciai Gladiatore2, 12 Breezer Venturi, 09 Dahon Mariner, 12 Mercier Nano, 95 DeKerf Team SL, 19 Tern Rally, 21 Breezer Doppler Cafe+, 19 T-Lab X3, 91 Serotta CII, 23 3T Strada
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3133 Post(s)
Liked 1,700 Times
in
1,027 Posts
Lemme guess, “and you know what’s worse than Vs? Discs.”
#14
Guest
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,888
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 3,270 Times
in
1,439 Posts
This forum is so hashtag blessed to have Chodester and all of his infantile infinite wisdom. What an asset.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Chicago, IL, USA
Posts: 2,873
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1456 Post(s)
Liked 1,477 Times
in
867 Posts
As long as we're trolling about brake types, I tried mini-v's for a while on my canti cross bike, and the brake feel was super mushy, and the pads had to be run super close to the rims which means any hint of mud or dirt messes them up. I switched back to traditional cantilevers.
My other bike has hydro disc, which is substantially better.
My other bike has hydro disc, which is substantially better.
#16
Randomhead
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,394
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,694 Times
in
2,516 Posts
The op isn't going to be throwing away his canti equipped bike any time soon, so I'm confused why we're having a discussion of the relative merits of brake types in here. Except maybe between cantis and vee brakes. If they were buying a new bike, it would be different.
Mushy vee brakes sounds like a lever/brake mismatch, maybe.
Mushy vee brakes sounds like a lever/brake mismatch, maybe.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Chicago, IL, USA
Posts: 2,873
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1456 Post(s)
Liked 1,477 Times
in
867 Posts
Standard road levers don't pull enough cable to properly set up a regular V brake. There are a few options to work around this problem:
1. Several manufacturers make "mini-V" brakes on the market that have a shorter arms and therefore shorter cable pull than a standard V-brake. These brakes are specifically marketed for use with road levers and offer more power than a cantilever setup, but require the pads to be run really close to the rims and the brakes require all of the available lever pull to engage, so the brake feel is mushy in comparison to a traditional cantilever. This setup also leaves little room for mud/dirt clearance.
https://trpcycling.com/product/cx-8-4/
2. Standard V-brakes can be used with road levers and an adapter that pulls more cable. There is a product called "Travel Agent" that can be used for this. Because it's pulling more cable, you have to apply a lot more force on the lever to get the same amount of brake power. In my experience you end up with roughly the same brake power as a traditional canti, but this setup works if you can't run the center cantilever hanger for some reason (like suspension, or an incompatible stem/steer tube).
https://problemsolversbike.com/index...ch-your-brakes
None of this answers the OP's question though. They should use the shorter pads, which will be easier to set up... and deflate the front tire to get it off.
1. Several manufacturers make "mini-V" brakes on the market that have a shorter arms and therefore shorter cable pull than a standard V-brake. These brakes are specifically marketed for use with road levers and offer more power than a cantilever setup, but require the pads to be run really close to the rims and the brakes require all of the available lever pull to engage, so the brake feel is mushy in comparison to a traditional cantilever. This setup also leaves little room for mud/dirt clearance.
https://trpcycling.com/product/cx-8-4/
2. Standard V-brakes can be used with road levers and an adapter that pulls more cable. There is a product called "Travel Agent" that can be used for this. Because it's pulling more cable, you have to apply a lot more force on the lever to get the same amount of brake power. In my experience you end up with roughly the same brake power as a traditional canti, but this setup works if you can't run the center cantilever hanger for some reason (like suspension, or an incompatible stem/steer tube).
https://problemsolversbike.com/index...ch-your-brakes
None of this answers the OP's question though. They should use the shorter pads, which will be easier to set up... and deflate the front tire to get it off.