1972 Paramount tandem update
12-31-19, 01:55 PM
#1
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1972 Paramount tandem update
I posted on this previously here: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-features.html but here are pictures of the near final version. Tried replacing the original 54-48-28 triple chainring with a 50-40-35 combination at first, but found shifting more trouble than it was worth, so went to 48-35 double chainring which seems to give the appropriate range for this bike. Still working on the campy pedals but they may or may not go back on.
12-31-19, 02:19 PM
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H**Y CRAP MAN!, Fantastic, well done. 
Likes For merziac:
12-31-19, 03:25 PM
#3
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One of my '76-77 Ohio State college dorm mates and his girlfriend rode a Paramount tandem on occasion. Not sure what year the bike was... Otherwise, Jim rode his racing (on the road) or track (at TTs/Crits) Paramounts... I can't remember what she rode when they rode solo... Wasn't a Schwinn... I don't think it was Italian. I'm thinking it was a Peugeot... I thought I was doing good with my Fuji S-10S back then, LOL!
12-31-19, 04:14 PM
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The bike is quite handsome. Wonder if that is the correct gender.
I will give my Paramount one more go, will go to Super Champ gentleman rims, tie and soldier the spokes, good tires.(well as good as 27" as I can find.)
Not interested in moving the canti posts.
My example really "shudders" laterally until you get moving.
It is a mens/mixtie also but a slightly smaller size.
Other tandems do not seem so afflicted.
I will give my Paramount one more go, will go to Super Champ gentleman rims, tie and soldier the spokes, good tires.(well as good as 27" as I can find.)
Not interested in moving the canti posts.
My example really "shudders" laterally until you get moving.
It is a mens/mixtie also but a slightly smaller size.
Other tandems do not seem so afflicted.
12-31-19, 05:10 PM
#5
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Apologies if you tried it already and it's a no-go.
01-01-20, 06:04 AM
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Have you tried 700c wheels? Often it works even though the posts were intended for 27" You might have to put some other brake (not Mafac), something with some up/down adjustability. Or just try Mafac Criterium, the shorter-armed version of the Tandem canti -- their arms from the pivot up to the pad attachment point are 2 mm shorter than Tandem, which might be enough to make the post height work on 700c rims. Criterium brakes can still be plenty strong, especially with modern rubber. And then a whole world of better tire choices opens up. Plus you have more room to use fatter tires, especially nice on a tandem.
Apologies if you tried it already and it's a no-go.
Apologies if you tried it already and it's a no-go.
01-01-20, 09:09 AM
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Have you tried 700c wheels? Often it works even though the posts were intended for 27" You might have to put some other brake (not Mafac), something with some up/down adjustability. Or just try Mafac Criterium, the shorter-armed version of the Tandem canti -- their arms from the pivot up to the pad attachment point are 2 mm shorter than Tandem, which might be enough to make the post height work on 700c rims. Criterium brakes can still be plenty strong, especially with modern rubber. And then a whole world of better tire choices opens up. Plus you have more room to use fatter tires, especially nice on a tandem.
Apologies if you tried it already and it's a no-go.
Apologies if you tried it already and it's a no-go.
actually I am not liking the close proximity of the canti posts to the 27“ rims!
i think 4 mm closer would be a disaster.
maybe the solution is a disc fork, the bike is underbraked
01-01-20, 03:04 PM
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Just noticed - are those front pads suitable for cantilever brakes? Is there enough clearance between rim and fork for a more conventional, much longer brake pad.
Lovely bike BTW.
Last edited by Johno59; 01-01-20 at 03:14 PM.
01-01-20, 03:23 PM
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Johno59- I think you have it wrong- from my experience and concurred from Sheldonbrown:
With a brake set up for maximum mechanical advantage, the shorter transverse cable has a shallower yoke angle. This may make it difficult or impossible to unhook the transverse cable for wheel removal. For some riders, it may be a worthwhile trade-off to give up some braking power for the sake of easier wheel removal. From the pages of:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
This is true for Mafac Racer brakes too. I bought a bike with them, and was unimpressed from the power (I did have a bike with them 40+ years ago)
I shortened the straddle wire, presto, much more power.
I did a number of things to improve the tandem's stopping power. Short of going to Nonkon cable housing, and got marginal improvement, but not what I would call safe.
This did make me think of sourcing a pre made Disc fork, looks possible, I have to double check some dimensions.
With a brake set up for maximum mechanical advantage, the shorter transverse cable has a shallower yoke angle. This may make it difficult or impossible to unhook the transverse cable for wheel removal. For some riders, it may be a worthwhile trade-off to give up some braking power for the sake of easier wheel removal. From the pages of:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
This is true for Mafac Racer brakes too. I bought a bike with them, and was unimpressed from the power (I did have a bike with them 40+ years ago)
I shortened the straddle wire, presto, much more power.
I did a number of things to improve the tandem's stopping power. Short of going to Nonkon cable housing, and got marginal improvement, but not what I would call safe.
This did make me think of sourcing a pre made Disc fork, looks possible, I have to double check some dimensions.
01-01-20, 11:18 PM
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I stand corrected
Johno59- I think you have it wrong- from my experience and concurred from Sheldonbrown:
With a brake set up for maximum mechanical advantage, the shorter transverse cable has a shallower yoke angle. This may make it difficult or impossible to unhook the transverse cable for wheel removal. For some riders, it may be a worthwhile trade-off to give up some braking power for the sake of easier wheel removal. From the pages of:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
This is true for Mafac Racer brakes too. I bought a bike with them, and was unimpressed from the power (I did have a bike with them 40+ years ago)
I shortened the straddle wire, presto, much more power.
I did a number of things to improve the tandem's stopping power. Short of going to Nonkon cable housing, and got marginal improvement, but not what I would call safe.
This did make me think of sourcing a pre made Disc fork, looks possible, I have to double check some dimensions.
With a brake set up for maximum mechanical advantage, the shorter transverse cable has a shallower yoke angle. This may make it difficult or impossible to unhook the transverse cable for wheel removal. For some riders, it may be a worthwhile trade-off to give up some braking power for the sake of easier wheel removal. From the pages of:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
This is true for Mafac Racer brakes too. I bought a bike with them, and was unimpressed from the power (I did have a bike with them 40+ years ago)
I shortened the straddle wire, presto, much more power.
I did a number of things to improve the tandem's stopping power. Short of going to Nonkon cable housing, and got marginal improvement, but not what I would call safe.
This did make me think of sourcing a pre made Disc fork, looks possible, I have to double check some dimensions.
A disc on the front would place a lot of force on the spokes.
Note the really short bridge wire
Last edited by Johno59; 01-02-20 at 12:47 AM.
01-02-20, 02:37 AM
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Drum brakes for old school tandem stopping boost.
Have you considered drum brakes for extra stopping power. The advantage is drum brakes fit a standard fork/27 inch wheel, unlike a disc brake that will require a completely different front end.
This tandem has 4 X Resilion cantilever brakes(each nearly 3 inches long) and drum brakes front and rear.
Last edited by Johno59; 01-02-20 at 03:41 AM.
01-02-20, 05:58 AM
#12
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Have you considered drum brakes for extra stopping power. The advantage is drum brakes fit a standard fork/27 inch wheel, unlike a disc brake that will require a completely different front end.
This tandem has 4 X Resilion cantilever brakes(each nearly 3 inches long) and drum brakes front and rear.
01-02-20, 08:51 AM
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1930s tandems
There are quite a few vintage (1930s) tandems on eBay for under 500 USD s. They only have standard drum brakes front and rear and are thus dangerous but cheap. However many folks BITD added Resilion cantilever brakes so no problems stopping. Some actually have both going cheap ,as today most folks know nothing about maintaining Resilion brakes.
Last edited by Johno59; 01-02-20 at 09:02 AM.
01-02-20, 09:41 AM
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Beautiful bike, that rear brake cable takes an amazing journey.
01-02-20, 11:22 AM
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1930s Herc
This is a 1930s Hercules tandem. Stock it was sold with just twin drum brakes. The owner added Resilion cantilever and there you go. 400 USD
Last edited by Johno59; 01-02-20 at 11:27 AM.
01-02-20, 05:02 PM
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01-03-20, 04:10 AM
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What can you say!
07-10-22, 09:00 AM
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Have you tried 700c wheels? Often it works even though the posts were intended for 27" You might have to put some other brake (not Mafac), something with some up/down adjustability. Or just try Mafac Criterium, the shorter-armed version of the Tandem canti -- their arms from the pivot up to the pad attachment point are 2 mm shorter than Tandem, which might be enough to make the post height work on 700c rims. Criterium brakes can still be plenty strong, especially with modern rubber. And then a whole world of better tire choices opens up. Plus you have more room to use fatter tires, especially nice on a tandem.
Apologies if you tried it already and it's a no-go.
Apologies if you tried it already and it's a no-go.
the arc the caliper elements swing at the rim is way too down and inboard for my liking, no way I could get a 4mm smaller radius rim to work.
