What Do You Think About These Choices?
#1
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What Do You Think About These Choices?
Hello everyone, I need some advice from people that are into cycling. I am going to pickup a bike soon for mainly for exercise, local running around, possibly commuting but nothing to crazy.
I think most of my riding will be around the neighborhood only because it's just there when you open your door. However want I want to get into, is riding trails and paths in the local area (Newnan, Ga), just because I'm not sharing the road with vehicles and the possible hazards that doing that could bring.
When I say trails and paths I do not mean crazy, I need another Red Bull stuff. I'm looking for fairly manicured paths in the woods or whatever but I have no intention of doing tricks, racing or really even getting the thing off the ground... that may happen in a spur of the moment kinda thing but I'm a fairly fit 53... so in general, pretty much not going to be doing that.
My question is on bike selection. Trek is all I've looked at so far and though I originally was thinking the Dual Sport 2, those are pretty much gone and everyone I talk to thinks I should maybe be looking at Marlins, which is what I've been doing. The Marlin 6 was my first choice but the tubeless tire readiness and other features of the Marlin 7 sounds like it is seriously worth looking at.
My height is aroung 6'ft 4" to 6' ft 4.5" or 193 to 194 centimeters. My inseam is about 34" or about 86/87 centimeters.
The bikes, sizes and colors I am currently interested in but some can be hard to find.
All 2022 Trek Models
Unsure in the size will be XL or XXL, I need to try them out
Marlin 6 ($799.99) - 1st choice is Factory Orange but if that is not available, Rage Red to Dnister Black Fade
Marlin 7 ($979.99) - 1st choice is Matte Nautical Navy/Matte Anthracite but if that is not available, Marigold to Radioactive Red Fade
That Marlin 7 price is really the most I want to pay.
What are your thoughts? Marlin 6, Marlin 7, another choice?
Thanks,
Randy
I think most of my riding will be around the neighborhood only because it's just there when you open your door. However want I want to get into, is riding trails and paths in the local area (Newnan, Ga), just because I'm not sharing the road with vehicles and the possible hazards that doing that could bring.
When I say trails and paths I do not mean crazy, I need another Red Bull stuff. I'm looking for fairly manicured paths in the woods or whatever but I have no intention of doing tricks, racing or really even getting the thing off the ground... that may happen in a spur of the moment kinda thing but I'm a fairly fit 53... so in general, pretty much not going to be doing that.
My question is on bike selection. Trek is all I've looked at so far and though I originally was thinking the Dual Sport 2, those are pretty much gone and everyone I talk to thinks I should maybe be looking at Marlins, which is what I've been doing. The Marlin 6 was my first choice but the tubeless tire readiness and other features of the Marlin 7 sounds like it is seriously worth looking at.
My height is aroung 6'ft 4" to 6' ft 4.5" or 193 to 194 centimeters. My inseam is about 34" or about 86/87 centimeters.
The bikes, sizes and colors I am currently interested in but some can be hard to find.
All 2022 Trek Models
Unsure in the size will be XL or XXL, I need to try them out
Marlin 6 ($799.99) - 1st choice is Factory Orange but if that is not available, Rage Red to Dnister Black Fade
Marlin 7 ($979.99) - 1st choice is Matte Nautical Navy/Matte Anthracite but if that is not available, Marigold to Radioactive Red Fade
That Marlin 7 price is really the most I want to pay.
What are your thoughts? Marlin 6, Marlin 7, another choice?
Thanks,
Randy
#2
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Those steep slope TT bikes are HORRIBLE, stay away. IMO. Especially at your size. At least a 62 cm frame.
I wouldn't get a bungie fork either. Find something more like a commuter style, with tires 42 to 50 mm.
I would get a 2x or better yet, an IGH 7 or 8 sp. 1x is just dumb.
I do 100+ mile highway rides with 4 kinds of IGH. The last 3 rides were with a SA RD3. It has new 650B x 38 mm wheels. 100% reliable and quiet. My Nexus 7i has 8 more GIs on both ends.
I wouldn't get a bungie fork either. Find something more like a commuter style, with tires 42 to 50 mm.
I would get a 2x or better yet, an IGH 7 or 8 sp. 1x is just dumb.
I do 100+ mile highway rides with 4 kinds of IGH. The last 3 rides were with a SA RD3. It has new 650B x 38 mm wheels. 100% reliable and quiet. My Nexus 7i has 8 more GIs on both ends.
Last edited by GamblerGORD53; 09-24-21 at 10:41 PM.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Those steep slope TT bikes are HORRIBLE. IMO. Especially at your size. At least a 62 cm frame.
I wouldn't get a bungie fork either. Find something more like a commuter style, with tires 42 to 50.
I would get a 2x or better yet, an IGH 7 or 8 sp. 1x is just dumb.
I do 100+ mile highway rides with 4 kinds of IGH. The last 3 rides were with a SA RD3. 100% reliable and quiet.
I wouldn't get a bungie fork either. Find something more like a commuter style, with tires 42 to 50.
I would get a 2x or better yet, an IGH 7 or 8 sp. 1x is just dumb.
I do 100+ mile highway rides with 4 kinds of IGH. The last 3 rides were with a SA RD3. 100% reliable and quiet.
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TT is top tube. Those stupidly small Marlin frames have the TT in line with the seat tube. Barely room for 1 bottle holder.
It's hard to suggest when there's little stock around. I like Brooklyn bikes. There's Priority bikes with IGH, that have a bit less slope TT.
It's hard to suggest when there's little stock around. I like Brooklyn bikes. There's Priority bikes with IGH, that have a bit less slope TT.
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TT = Time Trial bike. A computer bike that can handle trails is called a Gravel bike. Good luck
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Hi Randy. For the riding you're describing, I think a Marlin is overkill. The sport has gotten pretty niche, so there are bikes specifically made for almost every kind of terrain, including pavement-with-some-groomed-paths-and-a-little-singletrack. For that, I'd splurge for something like a Surly Bridge Club. You can configure it with 27.5 mountain bike wheels or 700c gravel wheels. Tour with it, commute with it, go bash rocks with it. Could be a lifer.
#7
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Hi Randy. For the riding you're describing, I think a Marlin is overkill. The sport has gotten pretty niche, so there are bikes specifically made for almost every kind of terrain, including pavement-with-some-groomed-paths-and-a-little-singletrack. For that, I'd splurge for something like a Surly Bridge Club. You can configure it with 27.5 mountain bike wheels or 700c gravel wheels. Tour with it, commute with it, go bash rocks with it. Could be a lifer.
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I would spend the extra $200 for the 7. 10 cogs vs 8 is a bigger deal when you're running only one chainring. And I would guess the Shimano brakes are probably slightly better than the Tektro's. The weight difference is 2 pounds and many people spend a lot more than $200 in parts to drop even less weight. My first upgrade would be a good fork, they both have cheap coil spring forks.
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Hi Randy. For the riding you're describing, I think a Marlin is overkill. The sport has gotten pretty niche, so there are bikes specifically made for almost every kind of terrain, including pavement-with-some-groomed-paths-and-a-little-singletrack. For that, I'd splurge for something like a Surly Bridge Club. You can configure it with 27.5 mountain bike wheels or 700c gravel wheels. Tour with it, commute with it, go bash rocks with it. Could be a lifer.
Or any mainstream "gravel" bike with straight bars (rather than drop bars). I wouldn't get a mountain bike for this kind of riding or anything with a suspension fork in this price range.
#10
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I would spend the extra $200 for the 7. 10 cogs vs 8 is a bigger deal when you're running only one chainring. And I would guess the Shimano brakes are probably slightly better than the Tektro's. The weight difference is 2 pounds and many people spend a lot more than $200 in parts to drop even less weight. My first upgrade would be a good fork, they both have cheap coil spring forks.
#11
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I'm doing some online research this weekend on gravel bikes. Everything seems so expensive. I would really prefer to keep it under $800 but Schwinn seems about the only way to do that. I don't know maybe they have something worth looking at, I haven't checked.
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Look folks if you are going to be professionally racing you probably won't be here asking about entry level and lower end bikes. I don't know why it is so important to mention all of that it is not relevant to the conversation. It is like walking into a 7-11 and proclaiming as you are looking at which snack cake you are purchasing saying "I am not going to be a professional chef"
In terms of bikes if you are looking at decent bikes you are going to probably look to spend at least 1k otherwise these days you are getting deeper and deeper into the initially low costs bikes that don't perform as well and don't last as long especially components wise. A bike is something you will have for a while so if your plan is to ride it with some regularity get something decent. Keep in mind though the more stuff you add to a bike like suspension for instance the more the price must increase or the quality must go way down. If your plan is to upgrade parts down the line, then get the bike with those parts and save that money right away instead of buying two sets of parts and replacing parts that probably were just put on their for looks and to hit a price point get closer to what you want. Replacing a pair of grips and adding pedals is one thing but replacing a really cheap coil fork at or near the outset is silly when you can find a better bike with better components and enjoy it more. The really cheap bikes are there for folks who are occasional users maybe they might ride once a month or less and really just need something for household clutter rather than something they will really enjoy.
In terms of bikes if you are looking at decent bikes you are going to probably look to spend at least 1k otherwise these days you are getting deeper and deeper into the initially low costs bikes that don't perform as well and don't last as long especially components wise. A bike is something you will have for a while so if your plan is to ride it with some regularity get something decent. Keep in mind though the more stuff you add to a bike like suspension for instance the more the price must increase or the quality must go way down. If your plan is to upgrade parts down the line, then get the bike with those parts and save that money right away instead of buying two sets of parts and replacing parts that probably were just put on their for looks and to hit a price point get closer to what you want. Replacing a pair of grips and adding pedals is one thing but replacing a really cheap coil fork at or near the outset is silly when you can find a better bike with better components and enjoy it more. The really cheap bikes are there for folks who are occasional users maybe they might ride once a month or less and really just need something for household clutter rather than something they will really enjoy.
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Yah, I also see a lot of these dumb ugly bikes around. They give you half a frame to save a fricking pound. Then they have to make it up with a bean pole seat post. Totally idiotic. IMO. It also makes it horrible for installing a rear rack.
They are just plain poor for anything but riding around. There is zero need for a bungie fork with 47 mm tires.
The Ogre also looks so lame to me.
1x 10 forces the use of a pie plate 42T. You loose 20 or 30 % of your gear range, for what??
My Rohloff14 is 20 to 109 GI now. It was 21 to 115 on my last tour over the Rocky Mountains. Used every gear, just about every day.
Make sure you get 700c wheels with 32 or 36 spokes.
They are just plain poor for anything but riding around. There is zero need for a bungie fork with 47 mm tires.
The Ogre also looks so lame to me.
1x 10 forces the use of a pie plate 42T. You loose 20 or 30 % of your gear range, for what??
My Rohloff14 is 20 to 109 GI now. It was 21 to 115 on my last tour over the Rocky Mountains. Used every gear, just about every day.
Make sure you get 700c wheels with 32 or 36 spokes.
Last edited by GamblerGORD53; 09-25-21 at 04:10 PM.
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Yah, I also see a lot of these dumb ugly bikes around. They give you half a frame to save a fricking pound. Then they have to make it up with a bean pole seat post. Totally idiotic. IMO. It also makes it horrible for installing a rear rack.
They are just plain poor for anything but riding around. There is zero need for a bungie fork with 47 mm tires.
The Ogre also looks so lame to me.
1x 10 forces the use of a pie plate 42T. You loose 20 or 30 % of your gear range, for what??
My Rohloff14 is 20 to 109 GI now. It was 21 to 115 on my last tour over the Rocky Mountains. Used every gear, just about every day.
Make sure you get 700c wheels with 32 or 36 spokes.
They are just plain poor for anything but riding around. There is zero need for a bungie fork with 47 mm tires.
The Ogre also looks so lame to me.
1x 10 forces the use of a pie plate 42T. You loose 20 or 30 % of your gear range, for what??
My Rohloff14 is 20 to 109 GI now. It was 21 to 115 on my last tour over the Rocky Mountains. Used every gear, just about every day.
Make sure you get 700c wheels with 32 or 36 spokes.
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