Should I upgrade my bike or components?
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Should I upgrade my bike or components?
Hi All,
Thank you first for all your interesting insights in this forum. It is really a fun place. I am a long time lurker and of late trying to make a biking decision. About 10 years back, I bought a 2002 Giant TCR 2 (yes, it is 20 year old now!) with Shimano 105 to get started with road biking. It has Aluminium frame (Giant Aluxx) with Carbon Fiber seat posts and forks. Several thousand miles later, I am still riding the bike and it absolutely fits perfect for me and I still have lot of energy left after 40+ miles group rides here in Texas. I switched the tires to Continental GP5000 and they definitely made a difference (~1mph improvement).
I have been doing about 15-16 mph rides mainly and occasionally I would like to ride the higher speed one at 17-18 mph. To achieve that, I am thinking about either upgrading the existing components on the TCR frame that I really like (such as wheels) or sell the TCR and upgrade to a 5-6 year old full carbon Roubaix/Emonda/another TCR with 105? I can get these bikes used in the craigslist or local facebook market place within my budget at around $2000.
What do you think? Thx again for your advice.
-maadfw
Thank you first for all your interesting insights in this forum. It is really a fun place. I am a long time lurker and of late trying to make a biking decision. About 10 years back, I bought a 2002 Giant TCR 2 (yes, it is 20 year old now!) with Shimano 105 to get started with road biking. It has Aluminium frame (Giant Aluxx) with Carbon Fiber seat posts and forks. Several thousand miles later, I am still riding the bike and it absolutely fits perfect for me and I still have lot of energy left after 40+ miles group rides here in Texas. I switched the tires to Continental GP5000 and they definitely made a difference (~1mph improvement).
I have been doing about 15-16 mph rides mainly and occasionally I would like to ride the higher speed one at 17-18 mph. To achieve that, I am thinking about either upgrading the existing components on the TCR frame that I really like (such as wheels) or sell the TCR and upgrade to a 5-6 year old full carbon Roubaix/Emonda/another TCR with 105? I can get these bikes used in the craigslist or local facebook market place within my budget at around $2000.
What do you think? Thx again for your advice.
-maadfw
#2
Full Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 263
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 55 Times
in
48 Posts
You will get marginal improvements with more aerodynamic setups. As you know, aero is most important as you speed up. Aero changes make more sense for speed gains rather than component changes. Now I personally found an aero bike is faster overall, but the gains will depend on conditions and of course how much power you put in.
Likes For Sardines:
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 7,872
Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6958 Post(s)
Liked 10,960 Times
in
4,686 Posts
If you want to ride faster, a newer bike is probably the least productive approach. Ride more, train properly, and make sure you’re wearing a snug jersey.
Likes For Koyote:
#4
Method to My Madness
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 3,648
Bikes: Trek FX 2, Cannondale Synapse, Cannondale CAAD4, Santa Cruz Stigmata GRX
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1943 Post(s)
Liked 1,464 Times
in
1,013 Posts
#5
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,984
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6192 Post(s)
Liked 4,808 Times
in
3,316 Posts
A new and lighter bike. Certainly you can change the entire 105 groupset to Ultegra and change to marginally lighter wheels too and get lighter. Though still you likely will be better off and easier just getting a new bike.
If you didn't have to ask this question, then you might have a slight edge on upgrading your existing bike. <grin>
Speed though is all on you. A lighter bike will leave you with more energy to sustain your speed longer. Unless all your riding is on level ground or always downhill.
If you didn't have to ask this question, then you might have a slight edge on upgrading your existing bike. <grin>
Speed though is all on you. A lighter bike will leave you with more energy to sustain your speed longer. Unless all your riding is on level ground or always downhill.
Last edited by Iride01; 07-07-22 at 09:19 AM.
#6
Just Pedaling
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: US West Coast
Posts: 1,012
Bikes: YEP!
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 333 Post(s)
Liked 521 Times
in
348 Posts
Upgrade or join the C&V crowd. Haha, just kidding. If there is any chance of test riding a newer bike it will make the decision a whole lot easier for you.
#7
OM boy
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Goleta CA
Posts: 4,362
Bikes: a bunch
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 511 Post(s)
Liked 640 Times
in
436 Posts
Keep the 'old' as is.
Buy the 'New' with mostly 'newer' stuff. (spend less on the inconsequential stuff... less 'motoring' and money for 'gas' adds up quickly)
Ride both, for all sorts of rides
compare...
make a decision... if needed
Ride On... some more
Yuri
Buy the 'New' with mostly 'newer' stuff. (spend less on the inconsequential stuff... less 'motoring' and money for 'gas' adds up quickly)
Ride both, for all sorts of rides
compare...
make a decision... if needed
Ride On... some more
Yuri
Likes For cyclezen:
#8
Method to My Madness
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 3,648
Bikes: Trek FX 2, Cannondale Synapse, Cannondale CAAD4, Santa Cruz Stigmata GRX
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1943 Post(s)
Liked 1,464 Times
in
1,013 Posts
Likes For SoSmellyAir:
#9
OM boy
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Goleta CA
Posts: 4,362
Bikes: a bunch
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 511 Post(s)
Liked 640 Times
in
436 Posts
For your consideration
cycling performance is all gains/loses - some marginal, some major
equipment gains, physio gains, positional gains
the easiest, quickest, cheapest gains are positional - but the implementation can be problematic, depending on the rider. Or they can be substantial, again depending on the rider and ride profile.
'climbing', physio and equipment gains/loses are the big gorilla
flatter and more varied ride profile you go, equipment reduces, physio always important, and 'position'/aero becomes much more important. a combination of 3
For your consideration
a nice general study on "Field Testing the Upright VS the Aero Bike Cycling Position" - quick jump to page 23+ nails the jelly to the tree...
modern performance road riding doesn't need aero bars - 90% of the 'gain' is commonly achieved - in steady state riding - by mimicking the 'aero tuck' - riding hands on hoods, forearm tucked and parallel to ground/road, rider upper body relaxed....
it's actually very comfortable, for someone with flexibility enough to not have a heavv arch in the back. No everyone s able to do this from the get-go, but getting there makes longer distances at easier/higher speeds, fun... but that's a whole other can O worms...
Ride on
Yuri
...and there are consequences to a reach tooo short (too long is very hard to accomplish)
cycling performance is all gains/loses - some marginal, some major
equipment gains, physio gains, positional gains
the easiest, quickest, cheapest gains are positional - but the implementation can be problematic, depending on the rider. Or they can be substantial, again depending on the rider and ride profile.
'climbing', physio and equipment gains/loses are the big gorilla
flatter and more varied ride profile you go, equipment reduces, physio always important, and 'position'/aero becomes much more important. a combination of 3
For your consideration
a nice general study on "Field Testing the Upright VS the Aero Bike Cycling Position" - quick jump to page 23+ nails the jelly to the tree...
modern performance road riding doesn't need aero bars - 90% of the 'gain' is commonly achieved - in steady state riding - by mimicking the 'aero tuck' - riding hands on hoods, forearm tucked and parallel to ground/road, rider upper body relaxed....
it's actually very comfortable, for someone with flexibility enough to not have a heavv arch in the back. No everyone s able to do this from the get-go, but getting there makes longer distances at easier/higher speeds, fun... but that's a whole other can O worms...
Ride on
Yuri
...and there are consequences to a reach tooo short (too long is very hard to accomplish)
Last edited by cyclezen; 07-07-22 at 10:56 AM.
Likes For cyclezen:
#10
Mother Nature's Son
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Sussex County, Delaware
Posts: 3,113
Bikes: 2014 Orbea Avant MD30, 2004 Airborne Zeppelin TI, 2003 Lemond Poprad, 2001 Lemond Tourmalet, 2014? Soma Smoothie
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 853 Post(s)
Liked 1,434 Times
in
816 Posts
The answer is yes.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 3,691
Bikes: Too many bikes, too little time to ride
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 430 Post(s)
Liked 460 Times
in
318 Posts
I enjoy a retro-modern project but unless that old alloy TCR has sentimental value I'd lean towards building off of something slightly more modern. Things like weight, stiffness, geometry, and tire clearance would be my main considerations, as things have come a long way since 2002. I have a couple of older metal bikes set up with modern components and my biggest regret is not being able to fit wider tires on them. And if I'm being honest they simply don't feel as fast or responsive as my carbon bikes.