How High Maintenance are Tubeless Tires Anyway?
#76
Guest
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,888
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 3,269 Times
in
1,439 Posts
The Dynaplug website has comprehensive information and videos.
Last edited by Rolla; 09-25-21 at 09:20 AM.
Likes For Rolla:
#77
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,174
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4273 Post(s)
Liked 4,709 Times
in
2,909 Posts
Interesting. The way the diagram is presented though, it looks like the tool would be extending so far that you'd hit the rim bed? I'd assume not though since nobody is indicating that to use a dynaplug you need to remove the tire, right? What tool is needed for step 4's "clipping" -- pair of scissor, nail clipper?
I don't bother with step 4 when doing a roadside repair. I just trim the end flush when I get home. When you ride, the end just flattens down onto the tyre anyway and you can't feel it. I also use the "short tail" version of their plugs for road use. The standard ones are way too long for road tyres. You could of course cut the standard ones down.
#78
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 6,830
Bikes: Trek Domane SLR 7 AXS, Trek CheckPoint SL7, Trek Emonda ALR, Trek FX 5 Sport
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 751 Post(s)
Liked 1,666 Times
in
980 Posts
Took a 66 mile ride today on the tire I plugged last Saturday, the end of the plug just wore off and there was nary and issue with the tire. Worked as it should have.
Likes For jaxgtr:
#79
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,505
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 353 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20791 Post(s)
Liked 9,436 Times
in
4,663 Posts
That said, with road tires, even relatively low pressure ones, I have found that bacon strips work/work best when knotted and the knot is shoved inside of the carcass, keeping the strip from being pushed out by the pressure.
Likes For WhyFi:
#80
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 6,830
Bikes: Trek Domane SLR 7 AXS, Trek CheckPoint SL7, Trek Emonda ALR, Trek FX 5 Sport
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 751 Post(s)
Liked 1,666 Times
in
980 Posts
On my last rear tire, I had a bacon strip in for 2.5k miles.
That said, with road tires, even relatively low pressure ones, I have found that bacon strips work/work best when knotted and the knot is shoved inside of the carcass, keeping the strip from being pushed out by the pressure.
That said, with road tires, even relatively low pressure ones, I have found that bacon strips work/work best when knotted and the knot is shoved inside of the carcass, keeping the strip from being pushed out by the pressure.
#81
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,187
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2749 Post(s)
Liked 2,516 Times
in
1,422 Posts
Of course I don’t have all that much experience doing this, as I almost never get flats since going tubeless. I’ve only had to put a tube in an MTB tire twice in the past 10 years, and one time on a gravel tire when I botched the taping job on the initial setup.
So what little extra work there is during a tube installation is offset 10 times over by the fact that you are getting far fewer flats that require a tube. At least that has been my experience.
I’ve never run smaller road tires tubeless. Maybe those are different.
To answer the OPs question: for the most part, my experience is that tubeless is usually very little trouble or maintenance. Yes, you need to add sealent every so often, but there is nothing messy about it. Remove the presta valve core and inject it in.
But sometimes the initial setup can be tricky if you have never done it. In my experience, 90% of the hassles of tubeless have to do with not getting the taping right.
#82
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,187
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2749 Post(s)
Liked 2,516 Times
in
1,422 Posts
Likes For Kapusta:
#83
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: northWET washington
Posts: 1,197
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 383 Post(s)
Liked 690 Times
in
396 Posts
I might just have to consider it the next time I get a flat or need new tire/tires. I think I would allow the bike shop to do the initial change over and not worry about the pressure needed to seat the tire/bead.
#84
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,174
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4273 Post(s)
Liked 4,709 Times
in
2,909 Posts
I would just do it yourself, otherwise you will never learn and forever be dependent on the shop to simply change your tyres.
Likes For PeteHski:
#85
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,174
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4273 Post(s)
Liked 4,709 Times
in
2,909 Posts
On my last rear tire, I had a bacon strip in for 2.5k miles.
That said, with road tires, even relatively low pressure ones, I have found that bacon strips work/work best when knotted and the knot is shoved inside of the carcass, keeping the strip from being pushed out by the pressure.
That said, with road tires, even relatively low pressure ones, I have found that bacon strips work/work best when knotted and the knot is shoved inside of the carcass, keeping the strip from being pushed out by the pressure.
Likes For PeteHski:
#86
Junior Member
#87
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: atlanta ga
Posts: 245
Bikes: road: 1999 GT road:40Kmi+ // 2001 fuji finest AL:9Kmi+//1991 schwinn paramount ODG:0.1Kmi+
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times
in
7 Posts
The tubeless version of a given tire is usually more expensive, but not extremely so. It’s not like they’re twice as much. They are a bit more involved setting up initially, but once installed there isn’t much more to do. Yes, you occasionally need to refresh the sealant, but that’s about a five minute job once or twice a year. I have a couple wheelsets that I set up tubeless and have never needed a compressor. Maybe I am just lucky.
For a cross bike, I think they’re really superior. You can run lower pressures and they are good protection against flats from goatheads, which are an issue at a lot of our race venues.
Finally , even if you decide you have no interest in tubeless, that’s no reason to reject this bike if you like it otherwise. You can always put a tube in a tubeless-ready tire.
For a cross bike, I think they’re really superior. You can run lower pressures and they are good protection against flats from goatheads, which are an issue at a lot of our race venues.
Finally , even if you decide you have no interest in tubeless, that’s no reason to reject this bike if you like it otherwise. You can always put a tube in a tubeless-ready tire.
or is that for "tubular" {as opposed to "tubeless" - most confusing terminology ever}
wle
#88
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Posts: 40,865
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2952 Post(s)
Liked 3,106 Times
in
1,417 Posts
Tubulars are glued on.
Likes For Atlas Shrugged:
#91
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Posts: 40,865
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2952 Post(s)
Liked 3,106 Times
in
1,417 Posts
#92
Guest
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,888
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 3,269 Times
in
1,439 Posts
When I recently bought new tires, I installed them at the shop so I could use the compressor (I'm a part-timer there). It sure makes it a lot easier to seat the bead when you have an unlimited supply of power and air!
Likes For Rolla:
#95
Junior Member
Spot on
The tubeless version of a given tire is usually more expensive, but not extremely so. It’s not like they’re twice as much. They are a bit more involved setting up initially, but once installed there isn’t much more to do. Yes, you occasionally need to refresh the sealant, but that’s about a five minute job once or twice a year. I have a couple wheelsets that I set up tubeless and have never needed a compressor. Maybe I am just lucky.
For a cross bike, I think they’re really superior. You can run lower pressures and they are good protection against flats from goatheads, which are an issue at a lot of our race venues.
Finally , even if you decide you have no interest in tubeless, that’s no reason to reject this bike if you like it otherwise. You can always put a tube in a tubeless-ready tire.
For a cross bike, I think they’re really superior. You can run lower pressures and they are good protection against flats from goatheads, which are an issue at a lot of our race venues.
Finally , even if you decide you have no interest in tubeless, that’s no reason to reject this bike if you like it otherwise. You can always put a tube in a tubeless-ready tire.
I'm very glad to be running tubeless and would not switch back,
#96
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Posts: 40,865
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2952 Post(s)
Liked 3,106 Times
in
1,417 Posts
Likes For caloso:
#97
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,505
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 353 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20791 Post(s)
Liked 9,436 Times
in
4,663 Posts
Up in the north, we don't have those, but we can have a bunch of sharp grit, a lot of it laid down for traction in the winter. Before going tubeless, I was probably flatting at a rate of something like once every 300-400 miles. For a low-mileage cyclist, that might be fine, but when that rate translates to 10+ per ~year (we're really talking about a riding season that's squeezed in to 7 or 8 months), that's a whole lot of ********.
Likes For WhyFi:
#98
Junior Member
Reducing flats
Tubeless has a triple advantage
We had a bad storm last month, day before a large community ride. There were so many flats, the SAG people ran out of spare tubes. I spent time changing several riders tubes, but I didn’t have any issues myself.
That’s not to say tubeless is perfect: it is definitely harder to put a tube in a tubeless tire because the sidewalls are much deeper. I’m still a huge fan.
- no pinch flats
- lower pressure means fewer punctures
- sealant can self-seal punctures while you ride (and you may not even notice it)
We had a bad storm last month, day before a large community ride. There were so many flats, the SAG people ran out of spare tubes. I spent time changing several riders tubes, but I didn’t have any issues myself.
That’s not to say tubeless is perfect: it is definitely harder to put a tube in a tubeless tire because the sidewalls are much deeper. I’m still a huge fan.
Likes For robertAltman:
#99
Guest
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,888
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 3,269 Times
in
1,439 Posts
If I only rode on smooth pavement, I probably wouldn't see the point either. But I can't remember the last time I went on a ride that didn't include some other surface -- gravel, dirt, chip-seal, grass, sand, rocks, etc. Between the traction, the comfort, and the flat prevention, tubeless just makes more sense for the conditions I ride in.
Likes For Rolla:
#100
Senior Member
I see a lot of worries about road tubeless because the pressures are too high. I've used a whole bunch of different tires and had good luck with 28mm GP5000TLs, 28mm Goodyear Eagles and 32mm Panaracer Gravelking slicks on different bikes I use for road and mixed surface riding. I've had really bad luck with sidewall weeping and unreliable setups attempting to use Rene Herse tires tubeless , which sucks because those are probably my favorite tires.
One caveat: i run far lower pressures tubeless than I used to run tubed. F/R, I run 28s at 70/72psi and 32s at about 37/39psi. For reference, I weigh about 165 and I used to run 23s at 114psi when I used tubes. With tubeless, I really like running these lower pressures. I can feel noticeably more grip (especially on damp roads) and it's certainly much more comfortable. With the 28s, it's also not holding me back noticeably on 24+mph avg road rides with pulls at 30+.
Zipp, Giant and Enve are all currently pushing really wide hookless rims with 28mm-30mm tubeless tires at ~60psi as the future on the road. I personally see some merit in that. Anathema to traditionalists, though.
One caveat: i run far lower pressures tubeless than I used to run tubed. F/R, I run 28s at 70/72psi and 32s at about 37/39psi. For reference, I weigh about 165 and I used to run 23s at 114psi when I used tubes. With tubeless, I really like running these lower pressures. I can feel noticeably more grip (especially on damp roads) and it's certainly much more comfortable. With the 28s, it's also not holding me back noticeably on 24+mph avg road rides with pulls at 30+.
Zipp, Giant and Enve are all currently pushing really wide hookless rims with 28mm-30mm tubeless tires at ~60psi as the future on the road. I personally see some merit in that. Anathema to traditionalists, though.