Trek Emonda ALR 5 adjustment needed
#1
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Trek Emonda ALR 5 adjustment needed
Just picked up a new Emonda ALR 5 for my wife yesterday. Went on our first ride in the evening and she was having trouble getting the front derailleur to shift into high gear. She tried a few times and it finally went but was noisy as it rubbed when in the highest gear. I got it home and put it on the bike stand and now it wont shift into high gear at all as the derailleur barely moves at all. I do not see a barrel nut for adjusting the tension either. I am mechanically inclined but don't have much experience with bikes. I bought this bike over 100 miles away and will not be taking it back to the dealer. Any help would be appreciated.
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It has the new-ish 'toggle link' 105 front derailleur. You'll need to go to si.shimano.com, find the derailleur, open the 'DM' (dealer manual) and follow the instructions to the letter. You probably need more cable tension but should check the limit screws as well. Go through the manual and familiarize yourself with it. Check the tension first just to see if it's loosened up during break-in...a sign the shop didn't really do their job when setting the bike up. It's always good w/ these derailleurs to start from the beginning unless you're very familiar w/ making adjustments to them.
7000 front derailleur DM
Follow the manual to the letter.
7000 front derailleur DM
Follow the manual to the letter.
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Just for haha's, I would set the limit screws before I adjusted the cable tension just so I know something is right.
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If it is a new bike I will always encourage you to take it back to the shop you bought it. Things like adjustments on new bikes are almost always free. If it's some other reason, then they need to know anyway.
If you are a noob to bike DIY, it's good you want to learn. Many shops, at least the shops here will let you watch while they work on things like this.
If you are a noob to bike DIY, it's good you want to learn. Many shops, at least the shops here will let you watch while they work on things like this.
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#6
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Well I watched a very good video on youtube and followed the link you provided and it still does not shift. I think something is wrong with the shifter.
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I struggled with the new style FD derailleur until I followed the Joey Mesa video that takes you from start to finish. Watch and start from the beginning with the bike. Don't try to jump into the process half way.
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This one:
#10
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Yes that video! I watched it again and read the manual again and got it! The issue was my H screw was in too far and they did not talk about resetting that. Another reason is im a freaking noob with road bike gears especially and didnt understand all the different positions the left shifter has. Thanks everyone! Glad I fixed it myself and have a better understanding of the bike now.
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That is absolutely the wrong way to adjust a new toggle link ( 7000, 8000, 9100) derailleur. You might want to learn something about them before trying to advise others.
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Ouch! That's harsh. I watched the video and I would have sworn he adjusted the hi/lo before proceeding. But irregardless, I did mine that way with zero problems and it functions just fine. I'm sorry that you didn't have the same damned luck.
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If anyone is too lazy to use the manual, it goes like this:
Make sure the chain is on the large cog for all adjustments.
1) If derailleur is a braze-on set it very slightly tail in.
2) Adjust support screw so the cage is parallel to the chainrings and tighten the mounting screw.
3) Turn in low limit so the outer cage is over the big ring.
4) Attach cable making sure the black tab is against the part of the derailleur the cable tension screw will exit.
5) Shift to the large chainring and then click the shifter gently once to put it in the high trim position. Set cable tension by lining up the indicators on the derailleur.
6) Shift back up to the top position and set the high limit to .0-.5mm between the INNER cage plate and the chain.
7) Shift down to the low trim position (2 full clicks) and set the low limite the same.... .0-.5mm between the INNER cage plate and the chain.
8) Confirm adjustments and check the tension after shifting up and down a few times to make sure everything is seated properly.
9) Put the cable under the tension adjustment screw housing and make sure it exits to the rear. Put the cable through the link cover and attach the cover to the top of the derailleur. Trim cable (short) and put a crimp on.
#14
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If your H screw is in too far it will cause issues as well before attaching the cable. They should mention something about a good starting point for the H screw.
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No, it's not harsh, it's reality. Don't tell someone the incorrect way to set up a derailleur. And using 'irregarless' doesn't help your cause.
If anyone is too lazy to use the manual, it goes like this:
Make sure the chain is on the large cog for all adjustments.
1) If derailleur is a braze-on set it very slightly tail in.
2) Adjust support screw so the cage is parallel to the chainrings and tighten the mounting screw.
3) Turn in low limit so the outer cage is over the big ring.
4) Attach cable making sure the black tab is against the part of the derailleur the cable tension screw will exit.
5) Shift to the large chainring and then click the shifter gently once to put it in the high trim position. Set cable tension by lining up the indicators on the derailleur.
6) Shift back up to the top position and set the high limit to .0-.5mm between the INNER cage plate and the chain.
7) Shift down to the low trim position (2 full clicks) and set the low limite the same.... .0-.5mm between the INNER cage plate and the chain.
8) Confirm adjustments and check the tension after shifting up and down a few times to make sure everything is seated properly.
9) Put the cable under the tension adjustment screw housing and make sure it exits to the rear. Put the cable through the link cover and attach the cover to the top of the derailleur. Trim cable (short) and put a crimp on.
If anyone is too lazy to use the manual, it goes like this:
Make sure the chain is on the large cog for all adjustments.
1) If derailleur is a braze-on set it very slightly tail in.
2) Adjust support screw so the cage is parallel to the chainrings and tighten the mounting screw.
3) Turn in low limit so the outer cage is over the big ring.
4) Attach cable making sure the black tab is against the part of the derailleur the cable tension screw will exit.
5) Shift to the large chainring and then click the shifter gently once to put it in the high trim position. Set cable tension by lining up the indicators on the derailleur.
6) Shift back up to the top position and set the high limit to .0-.5mm between the INNER cage plate and the chain.
7) Shift down to the low trim position (2 full clicks) and set the low limite the same.... .0-.5mm between the INNER cage plate and the chain.
8) Confirm adjustments and check the tension after shifting up and down a few times to make sure everything is seated properly.
9) Put the cable under the tension adjustment screw housing and make sure it exits to the rear. Put the cable through the link cover and attach the cover to the top of the derailleur. Trim cable (short) and put a crimp on.
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This covers 9100, 8000, and 7000.
Shimano front derailleur Dealer Manual 9100, 8000, 7000
I would nearly go as far as to say if you need to adjust one and aren't sure what you're doing, read the manual a few times. AND run a new cable as most people will probably mess up the existing one as soon as they start trying to 'fix' it.
Shimano front derailleur Dealer Manual 9100, 8000, 7000
I would nearly go as far as to say if you need to adjust one and aren't sure what you're doing, read the manual a few times. AND run a new cable as most people will probably mess up the existing one as soon as they start trying to 'fix' it.
#17
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Shimano makes their technical documents so readily available to anyone. I never understand why people aren't using them.
Sure the stuff is very abbreviated and lacks explanation, but it's intended for those that already know something in general about what they are doing. Careful looking at all the notes and pictograms can be very helpful.
Those that watch YouTube videos need to be aware that not everyone making them has a clue. Some of the best edited and well scripted vids are the worst. So while they are great to give you some visual info about what you are about to do, you still need to follow the manufacturer procedures written in their documentation.
At least up until the point you find out they don't even work for you.
Sure the stuff is very abbreviated and lacks explanation, but it's intended for those that already know something in general about what they are doing. Careful looking at all the notes and pictograms can be very helpful.
Those that watch YouTube videos need to be aware that not everyone making them has a clue. Some of the best edited and well scripted vids are the worst. So while they are great to give you some visual info about what you are about to do, you still need to follow the manufacturer procedures written in their documentation.
At least up until the point you find out they don't even work for you.
Last edited by Iride01; 07-29-21 at 08:46 AM.
#18
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So I get my brand new Emonda ALR5 from the Trek store today. I get it home and throw it on my bike stand to mess around with shifting it and notice the front derailleur doesnt have the metal plate on the frame to protect it from the support screw. The support screw is backed out and not touching at all. Guess ill be calling them tomorrow. This is a separate bike from the one I originally made the post about which was my wife's bike.
Last edited by jjay03; 07-29-21 at 09:19 PM.
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The little square plate is not needed on any Trek frame, especially an aluminum one. You could just turn it in til it contacts the frame and the cage is parallel to the chainrings and forget about it.
#20
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roadbikerider.com/are-you-making-these-two-common-mistakes-adjusting-shimano-front-derailleurs/
Last edited by jjay03; 07-29-21 at 10:56 PM.
#21
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My Domane SL5 did not have it either. I bought one (2 actually came in the pack) online, and stuck it on. It was cheap.
#22
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Here a good YT video I found that shows how the support screw takes the play out of the action.
youtube.com/watch?v=-3_EU4cccW4 add the www. in front.
#23
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Yeah, that’s why I added it.
You can buy it here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/20326355027...evt=1&mkcid=28
You can buy it here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/20326355027...evt=1&mkcid=28
#24
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Sooo...you guys had advice from a guy that does this professionally everyday. More than advice, a tutorial, and chose to throw away the shovel and continue to dig with your hands? Damn.