For the love of English 3 speeds...
05-18-17, 07:13 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Not mine. Looks like a good one for a fair price.
https://norfolk.craigslist.org/bik/6126254717.html
Raleigh Tourist Police Bike Replica England Reduced!! - $275 (Chesapeake Great Bridge)
Raleigh DL-1 Tourist 1969
TALL frame 24 inch, rod brakes, 3-speed Sturmey archer(brooks), Brooks seat.
Made in England. These bikes are highly collectible and the original 1930s-1940s models can sell for up to $800-$1,200. They came in only 2 sizes, 22 inch or 24 inch. Asking $275
https://norfolk.craigslist.org/bik/6126254717.html
Raleigh Tourist Police Bike Replica England Reduced!! - $275 (Chesapeake Great Bridge)
Raleigh DL-1 Tourist 1969
TALL frame 24 inch, rod brakes, 3-speed Sturmey archer(brooks), Brooks seat.
Made in England. These bikes are highly collectible and the original 1930s-1940s models can sell for up to $800-$1,200. They came in only 2 sizes, 22 inch or 24 inch. Asking $275
Last edited by thumpism; 05-18-17 at 07:24 PM.
05-18-17, 07:29 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,938
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT
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And for the ladies...
https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/...122448319.html
1950 womens 56cm Raleigh Sports 3 speed, Dyno, Rod Brakes - Tweedride - $350 (Alexandria Delray)
serial number: 1950
size / dimensions: 52cm
late 40s or early 50s Raleigh Sports - larger 56cm lugged steel frame made in Nottingham England, full fenders, chaincase, rod brakes, Sturmey Archer 3 speed, Dyno front hub and headlamp, great condition for it's age, ready to ride e ladies...
https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/...122448319.html
1950 womens 56cm Raleigh Sports 3 speed, Dyno, Rod Brakes - Tweedride - $350 (Alexandria Delray)
serial number: 1950
size / dimensions: 52cm
late 40s or early 50s Raleigh Sports - larger 56cm lugged steel frame made in Nottingham England, full fenders, chaincase, rod brakes, Sturmey Archer 3 speed, Dyno front hub and headlamp, great condition for it's age, ready to ride e ladies...
05-18-17, 07:33 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,938
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https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/...129921408.html
Raleigh Sports 3-Speed - $185 (Cap Hill)
condition: excellent
make / manufacturer: Raleigh
model name / number: Sports
size / dimensions: 26 inch wheels MED
This is a beautiful, well-preserved bike from early 70s (Vintage). Everything in great shape and ready to ride -- this is not a project.
Lugged medium frame made in England.
Lots of details (Red "R" nuts on wheels and cranks, engravrings on handlebar.
Leather saddle.
26" wheels with new tires.
Well functioning original Sturmery Archer 3- speed hub.
Great bike for daily commute, city riding, Tweed Ride.
Raleigh Sports 3-Speed - $185 (Cap Hill)
condition: excellent
make / manufacturer: Raleigh
model name / number: Sports
size / dimensions: 26 inch wheels MED
This is a beautiful, well-preserved bike from early 70s (Vintage). Everything in great shape and ready to ride -- this is not a project.
Lugged medium frame made in England.
Lots of details (Red "R" nuts on wheels and cranks, engravrings on handlebar.
Leather saddle.
26" wheels with new tires.
Well functioning original Sturmery Archer 3- speed hub.
Great bike for daily commute, city riding, Tweed Ride.
05-18-17, 07:38 PM
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Location: Sacramento, Ca
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Bikes: 1976 Raleigh Tourist Loop, 1979 Puch Rugby Sport, 1970s stealth Erocia project
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And for the ladies...
https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/...122448319.html
1950 womens 56cm Raleigh Sports 3 speed, Dyno, Rod Brakes - Tweedride - $350 (Alexandria Delray)
https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/...122448319.html
1950 womens 56cm Raleigh Sports 3 speed, Dyno, Rod Brakes - Tweedride - $350 (Alexandria Delray)
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05-19-17, 04:30 PM
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05-20-17, 10:02 AM
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Ok, these rumors are getting out of hand. I'll go outside and take a picture of what I'm building and settle this once and for all.
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05-20-17, 10:07 AM
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It's just my Rudge scorcher. New paint, an extra length stem so I can set up my leg extension and upright balance like it was a 23" frame.
Got it geared 48x22. A proper scorcher should be geared a bit taller and have drop bars, but I had to make a few geezer mods for myself.
I still have to make up the cables and make the final adjustments, but I'll soon be scorchin!
Got it geared 48x22. A proper scorcher should be geared a bit taller and have drop bars, but I had to make a few geezer mods for myself.
I still have to make up the cables and make the final adjustments, but I'll soon be scorchin!
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05-20-17, 11:16 AM
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A quick search for "Tweed Ride, Sacramento, CA" turned up this:
Tweed Ride to Roll Through Sac Jan. 30th
[/FONT][/SIZE]
Tweed Ride to Roll Through Sac Jan. 30th
[/FONT][/SIZE]
There is a local Tweed ride coming up in June. I'm envious of organized rides that are longer then a few miles around town. I was under the impression the Lake Peppin ride was out on rural roads where roadsters get to shine. Heck I'll probably tweed around Paso Robles before the Eroica sunday ride just for fun 
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Tweed Rides are more a parade, "to be seen". It's more about the clothing, the bikes come second. You will see people with some really nice vintage bikes, but it's a mix of modern and old. Rides tend to be on the shorter side.
Pepin is more about the bikes and the ride. Yes, many people dress up, but not all do (as you can see in some of DQRider's pics).
I've led/worked out routes for both Tweed Rides and Three Speed Rides here in Portland. I have to think differently about the routing of either, and the audience is different.
It would be nice if there were more "Pepin" style rides around the country, but they are more work than Tweed Rides. I can't speak for Jon Sharratt (organizer of Lake Pepin), but I know he invests a lot of time and energy, and there's quite a bit of back end stuff that the riders don't see. It does make it easier to have an established route year after year.
So I guess what I'm saying is: If you want to see a three speed ride, you just have to do it yourself!
05-20-17, 11:24 AM
Senior Member
The ride organizers make a bit of a point that the best rides are those that are off the main route. I agree!
I wanted to do County 10 this year but my companion was not up to it. We did do the Territorial Road and the Ski Road.
Stockholm Bypass: Take the first paved road to the left outside of Maiden Rock (marked 'Rustic Road'). After you cross the stream, turn left on the gravel road (marked 'Next 4 miles'). After 4 stream crossings the road becomes steeper. A left at the top will get you to flat pavement pretty fast with the least amount of HAB (at the pavement, go right to County CC, take a right to Lund and follow CC), but if you want a bit more of a challenge go right (that's the way we went). The steepest part will be after the road goes to pavement. Take a left at County Hiway J. Option: take the Slough Road (gravel) just a short bit up J. Otherwise stay on J to Lund, go straight (Lund is a pretty small village) take Co Hiway CC to the right just east of Lund. Proceed south to Pepin. Alternate: approaching Pepin, take the Sandhill Road; watch for the cemetery and so a slight left turn. This will take you a bit further east. You can then take the Trail Road which puts you on WI35 about 2 miles east of Pepin.
We got to Wabasha with only enough time to check in and then get dinner provided by the Tour at the Eagle's Nest. I slept very well that night
I wanted to do County 10 this year but my companion was not up to it. We did do the Territorial Road and the Ski Road.
Stockholm Bypass: Take the first paved road to the left outside of Maiden Rock (marked 'Rustic Road'). After you cross the stream, turn left on the gravel road (marked 'Next 4 miles'). After 4 stream crossings the road becomes steeper. A left at the top will get you to flat pavement pretty fast with the least amount of HAB (at the pavement, go right to County CC, take a right to Lund and follow CC), but if you want a bit more of a challenge go right (that's the way we went). The steepest part will be after the road goes to pavement. Take a left at County Hiway J. Option: take the Slough Road (gravel) just a short bit up J. Otherwise stay on J to Lund, go straight (Lund is a pretty small village) take Co Hiway CC to the right just east of Lund. Proceed south to Pepin. Alternate: approaching Pepin, take the Sandhill Road; watch for the cemetery and so a slight left turn. This will take you a bit further east. You can then take the Trail Road which puts you on WI35 about 2 miles east of Pepin.
We got to Wabasha with only enough time to check in and then get dinner provided by the Tour at the Eagle's Nest. I slept very well that night
05-20-17, 12:06 PM
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While there's overlap between Pepin and Tweed, it's important to not conflate the two. Tweed Rides are more a parade, "to be seen". It's more about the clothing, the bikes come second. You will see people with some really nice vintage bikes, but it's a mix of modern and old. Rides tend to be on the shorter side. Pepin is more about the bikes and the ride. Yes, many people dress up, but not all do (as you can see in some of DQRider's pics). << edit >> So I guess what I'm saying is: If you want to see a three speed ride, you just have to do it yourself!
Too close to what I do for a living and I live for days when someone else is in charge.In the meantime post any upcoming events here. I'd come up for a three speed ride, spend some money in the bike shops and a few days on back roads tour. Hell, any excuse to visit Portland will do.
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05-20-17, 12:14 PM
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05-20-17, 07:35 PM
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Probably been posted here before but hey, it's bike to work week
05-20-17, 07:42 PM
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@BigChief - your scorcher is hot. Love the icy blue and the chainring.
I'll post photos once I start but I bought a Sturmey X-FD drum brake front hub, Rhyno Lite rims straight gauge spoke and brass nipples. Going to build up a front wheel for one of my Raleigh Twentys. I didn't think the original brake levers would work well so bought a pair of Sturmey levers for cheap.
I'll post photos once I start but I bought a Sturmey X-FD drum brake front hub, Rhyno Lite rims straight gauge spoke and brass nipples. Going to build up a front wheel for one of my Raleigh Twentys. I didn't think the original brake levers would work well so bought a pair of Sturmey levers for cheap.
05-20-17, 07:58 PM
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05-21-17, 04:24 AM
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@BigChief - your scorcher is hot. Love the icy blue and the chainring.
I'll post photos once I start but I bought a Sturmey X-FD drum brake front hub, Rhyno Lite rims straight gauge spoke and brass nipples. Going to build up a front wheel for one of my Raleigh Twentys. I didn't think the original brake levers would work well so bought a pair of Sturmey levers for cheap.
I'll post photos once I start but I bought a Sturmey X-FD drum brake front hub, Rhyno Lite rims straight gauge spoke and brass nipples. Going to build up a front wheel for one of my Raleigh Twentys. I didn't think the original brake levers would work well so bought a pair of Sturmey levers for cheap.
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05-21-17, 05:47 AM
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I was once the proud owner of this A.B. Jackson
05-21-17, 08:14 AM
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Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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It's just my Rudge scorcher. New paint, an extra length stem so I can set up my leg extension and upright balance like it was a 23" frame.
Got it geared 48x22. A proper scorcher should be geared a bit taller and have drop bars, but I had to make a few geezer mods for myself.
I still have to make up the cables and make the final adjustments, but I'll soon be scorchin!
Got it geared 48x22. A proper scorcher should be geared a bit taller and have drop bars, but I had to make a few geezer mods for myself.
I still have to make up the cables and make the final adjustments, but I'll soon be scorchin!
05-21-17, 09:09 AM
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Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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Rare 5 Speed Sprite
This one's for sale in Niagara Falls Canada for what I think is a reasonable $415.00 (CDN)
It appears it great shape and has the stylish "throttle" shifters.
$_2dstvfdgb7.jpg
$_2 nmkflcdk,.jpg
$_2 bnjmyuki8o7.jpg
$_2fdthju67.jpg
$_27 vnhgjuko8.jpg
It appears it great shape and has the stylish "throttle" shifters.
$_2dstvfdgb7.jpg
$_2 nmkflcdk,.jpg
$_2 bnjmyuki8o7.jpg
$_2fdthju67.jpg
$_27 vnhgjuko8.jpg
05-21-17, 10:18 AM
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Saddle bags
P1190141.jpg
P1190142.jpgPicked up a nice pair of saddle bags yesterday. Leather, $40.00. I think they are made for a small horse or a pony.
P1190142.jpgPicked up a nice pair of saddle bags yesterday. Leather, $40.00. I think they are made for a small horse or a pony.
05-21-17, 11:17 AM
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@gster That's a deal on those saddlebags. I love them.
05-21-17, 12:58 PM
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@BigChief - that bike has 451 20" wheels and current rebuild I'm doing is 406 20" wheels, with nice fat tires.
That 5 speed Sprite sure looks nice. I'd like to see some closeups in outdoor lighting. That green is gorgeous and rich.
That 5 speed Sprite sure looks nice. I'd like to see some closeups in outdoor lighting. That green is gorgeous and rich.
05-21-17, 03:13 PM
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Here's the official "all done" photo. Well...If I ever find the correct fork for this bike I'll change it, but for now it works fine. Really enjoyed my ride today. Guess I'll be riding the scorcher mostly this summer. I tend to binge ride different bikes.
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05-21-17, 11:17 PM
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Finally tried drilling the cotter pins on my Raleigh Sprite. I got the non drive side out but started to catch the crank arm with the drill bit.
Im not sure if this is toast or what.
What do you all think? Does anyone have a set of cranks they are willing to part with?
Im not sure if this is toast or what.
What do you all think? Does anyone have a set of cranks they are willing to part with?
05-22-17, 04:11 AM
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It doesn't seem to me that the small crater in there would make any difference. Looks like there's still plenty of support in there to hold a pin where it's supposed to be.
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05-22-17, 04:28 AM
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