BoSoxYacht

If the OP had a newer bike, and wanted to race, a PT and some coaching would be the way to go. For most non-racers a PT is just an expensive toy.

The OP has an entry level older bike, and it's likely that many components could be getting worn out.

BoSoxYacht

Thanks for your views.

For most non-racers on an older bike, I don't think a PT is what will help them the most.

A new bike, with modern components, normally encourages the cyclist to ride more.

Riding more will help his performance.

Leinster

All of this. I just went to REI and got a 2013 CAAD10 105 for $1100 + tax. Your local branch might have it in your size; don't be fooled by their website, in-store inventory is not listed there. Another LBS had a 2012 with Rival for not much more.

I took it out for its first spin today and knocked a minute and a half off a 35min strava segment. And that's with still getting used to compact gearing.

Upgrading the engine is a worthwhile pursuit (and I won't deny I've done a bit of that since my last attempt at that strava route), but don't dismiss the difference that a new chassis can make.

caloso

The OP asked about the best performance upgrade for $1000. He didn't specify what he meant by performance but I assumed it to mean something that will make his bike go faster, climb better, go farther. The best way to do that is to improve the engine; the best way to do that is through intervals; the best way to do that is through power measurement. Hence the recommendation for a powermeter.

If the OP wants something that looks cool propped against a white garage door, he should get a fancy new bike. If he wants to make his current bike go faster, whether he intends to race or not, improve the engine.

BoSoxYacht

How will a power meter & intervals help the OP ride farther?

How is knowing his power measurement going to help him ride farther?

c_mack9

Used effectively? Like with using a training coach to asess the data and develop a training plan? Does that sound like something somone with an entry level bike from 2006 would be interested in doing? If OP wants to devote time and training dedicated to going faster, he could do that on his own for free. Obviously he wouldn't get as much benefit from it, but he could at least max out his progress on his own before paying a third party. If someone mentions spending $1000 on a performance upgrade, they're typically not looking for a power meter. The benefits OP would get by switching to a carbon framed bike with new comonents would far outway a power meter.
So what you're saying is that you have spent money on new wheels, group, and frame?
Thank you!

And someone mentioned wheels compared to a new bike. A new 105 carbon bike would have a better frame than OP's bike, better group than OP's bike, and I'm willing to bet that today's entry level wheelsets are a whole lot better than OP's current wheelset. Technology moves fast in the industry. I got a new bike about 2 months ago, we're all familiar with the spike of saddle time that goes with it. I've put almost 1000 miles on it already, I'm climbing better, riding faster and farther and guess what? No power meter is on it. It's been the best performance upgrade I've had and the bike I upgraded from was only 2 years old and really nice.

erief0g

new guy here.

Enjoying the advice and enjoying each of you proving your opinion over others opinion.

If I put myself in your shoes which would put us at the year 2019. My bike would be 7 "model" years old and have countless miles on it. I just moved to a place I can ride year round. (Oh The Humanity of that!!!!) I would have to say that my $1000 plus the money I could get for my current ride being applied to a new bike of your choosing would be the end all, be all, of make me want to go out and put MILES on that new frame.

I see the thrill of a new bike winning in this. I also see that whatever you don't upgrade with your money will leave the rest of your components aged and used to however much your bike has seen.

Lots of good food to chew on here. Let us know what you choose and rest assured I've got your back... do what feels good to you regardless of any single persons input.

Advice is meant to be given. It is not meant to be accepted and taken blindly. Take all the advice, apply it to your situation in life, throw out the advice that doesn't fit and incorporate what does. Modify it at your discretion and most importantly ENJOY your bike.

halfspeed

Improving fitness improves endurance. This isn't rocket science.

Beaker

Yes. What I'm saying is over the years I have upgraded drive trains, bought news wheels and new bikes and also invested in a Powertap. When I look back, the Powertap was by far the most useful upgrade I made - in terms of actual performance.

Really we're flogging a deceased horse at this point, I think the Powertap was the best investment based on my own experience, you do not, for other reasons. It's all good.

halfspeed

What does the age of his bike have to do with his motivation? I've known plenty of fast guys riding relatively basic old bikes.

How so?

BoSoxYacht

Riding more also improves fitness, and won't cost the OP a dime.

halfspeed

You have a keen grasp of the obvious, but the OP has a kilobuck to spend to improve performance. Focused training with power will do that better than JRA and, guess what, that falls right in the OP's price range.

StephenH

For about an estimated $100 a ride, I'm pretty sure I could hire somebody to ride my bike faster than I'll ever be able to, power meter or not.

hhnngg1

I own a powertap, and while I love it and find it useful, I absolutely agree with you.

You do NOT need a powertap to improve a lot, and if anything, you'll do the bulk of your improvement without a powertap.

The powertap becomes particularly helpful for wringing that last few % of performance out of your already solid training base for race day. But if you're a relatively inexperienced cyclist, you don't need a powertap at all - you just need to ride more, and ride harder. (Riding more, especially.)

I was kind of shocked to see at Slowtwitch.com where a lot of die-hard powertap owners regularly discuss the ins and outs of quarqs, training, etc., that it seemed that only a small minority of powertap users actually did regular FTP tests, or very disciplined power-based interval type training. And these are non-draft triathletes, which means they probably use the powertap for intervals more regularly than roadies who have to learn to draft and handle in groups (during which you ignore the powertap completely).

No doubt some folks improve a LOT with powertaps, as it does keep you honest about the effort, but it's equally true that a lot, lot more people without powertaps, got really fast just by riding more, and harder.


Despite the fact I do really enjoy my powertap, I would NOT recommend OP just run out get a powertap. If OP really wants to get better, hiring a coach for a few months even without a powertap, would be far higher bang for buck than buying a powertap. In fact, because the OP isn't specifically interested in power-based training right now, I'd give a fairly high probability that the powertap would not make him any faster - he'd do similar training as before, and just have some nice pretty power numbers at the end, but overall be a similar cyclist. Contrary to what some say, buying a powertap does not guarantee you will ride more or harder.

The BEST advice I could give reower based training, is to give trainerroad.com a try. (I know this sounds like and ad, but I have no affiliation with them.) As long as you have a trainer and computer, you can get started with about $60-$80 of hardware (USB and speed sensor) and experience true power-based training done correctly. It's very different from just going out and riding, dramatically so. If you enjoy Trainerroad and training by 'virtualpower', then you'd likely do well with a powertap. (It works even better with a powertap, actually)

jerrycan42

I'm somewhat familiar with that bike, having owned the kinda similiar Trek 1600 SLR (Which I bought for its 10 speed drive train that I swapped out for the 9 speed on my older "A" bike and then sold for more than I paid for).

IIRC, The frame was pretty light (Alpha Race Aluminum?), so it wasn't so bad. If I had to spend $1000 on that bike, I'd get a really great set of wheels (keep the old ones for when you sell)

But honestly, that bike isn't worth $1000. Most I'd pay is $350, and most I'd sell it for (within a reasonable time period... 2 to 4 weeks) is $600.

Just ride the bags off of it and flip it for something better if the opportunity comes along...

Drew Eckhardt 

Apart from bike fit issues that don't show up for the first few hours in the saddle and learning to eat + hydrate 3x20 minute intervals at 95% of threshold power provide the same level of training for endurance purposes as 8 hours 45 minutes at an all-day pace. Round that up to 1.5 hours to allow for warm-up, cool-down, and 5 minutes between intervals for comfort. Twice a week that's 3 hours of work not 18.5 hours the slow way. Ride for four less intense hours and it's 7 hours weekly versus 22.5 which is the difference between manageable with a 60 hour work week and a half time job which isn't going to happen.

If you want to do the math yourself I get there using a hypothetical 180 pound rider atop a 20 pound bike who can just manage 250W for an hour with with .4 m^2 Sd and .760 Cd per Gibertini and Grassi's paper and .004 coefficient of rolling resistance.

A 95% effort for him is 237W and 23 MPH solo on dead flat ground. At a 15 MPH all-day endurance pace he's barely turning the pedals over at 80W which is a 32% effort and takes him 138 miles.

That lets him know he's riding at 95% of threshold power, not 80% which still feels hard because he's tired or 105% which is more of a 10 minute pace and not sustainable.

It doesn't do much without some structured training (hard enough tough days to force adaptations, easy enough rest periods to be fresh enough on the hard days for effective workouts).

The key here is structured training. With physics precluding significant gains from UCI legal equipment it's the only path. Obviously perceived effort isn't entirely without merit and heart rate is more affordable than power; although if some one must spend $1000 on equipment you end up with with a PowerTap or one of the other more affordable power meters like the Power2Max (spider based) or Stages (crank arm).

BoSoxYacht

You are correct.

thehammerdog

In regards to a performance upgrade and a G to spend I suggest the following. Take the $ go take a nice relaxing vaca for a long weekend, sleep well eat well and have some sex. Try to lose a few pounds and hope aboard.....I bet you will be a better rider as a result....

NRZ

Competitive Cyclist has Orbea full Rival bikes for like $1500 on sale, carbon Rival, that's a good upgrade. Little outside the budget, but it would be a huge upgrade.

RChung

Pretty good suggestion. That's second only to this one: Think of someone you really REALLY hate. Maybe it's the Ku Klux Klan, maybe it's the NAACP, maybe it's the Republicans, maybe it's the Democrats, maybe it's your brother-in-law -- but it has to be someone you really truly absolutely honestly hate. Now, go to your best friend, someone you really trust. Give him or her a post-dated check for $1000 made out to the Ku Klux Klan, or the Democratic Party, or to your brother-in-law. Say to your friend, "if my cycling performance does not improve by X% in Y weeks, I want you to mail this check to the ******** I've written this to."

bianchi10

I completely understand why the Powertap is being brought to the table. Yes, a powertap for someone who is racing and wants to get into the next catagory of their racing level will be helpful, useful and beneficial. BUT for someone who just rides for fun and looking for a little bit more performance out of their old bike, a power tap seems a bit extreme. As stated, riding more will help the OP become stronger and better conditioned. As for performance, I am ASSUMING that he is simply looking for something that he can spend $1000 on and feel an actual difference from what he currently has. IF this is the case, something like a wheelset, new bike, new frame, new bars/stem/seatpost or all of the above will most likely improve his overall riding and enjoyment. I would say the majority of us here in the 41 get excited about riding when they have new stuff simiply because it is new. Lord knows that when I get something new, I get super excited to get out and use it. That being said, I know there are also several groups here that are super content with what they have and dont like/need to upgrade or buy new things all the time.

I dont get a vibe that the OP is some serious racer and looking for that extra edge on his competitors. I believe he is simply looking for some direction on how to best spend his budgeted money towards something that will make a difference.

If that is the case, I still say sell what you have and apply that towards the money you have saved up and get yourself a new bike altogether. I see no point in investing that amount of money into an older bike when you could spend just a little bit more and get a newer bike, which will have better everything.

Thats just my thought anyway.

spectastic

I agree with selling this one, and getting a newer bike.

bianchi10

I'd like to see the OP get involved in his own thread and help give some feedback as to what he is looking for.

caloso

I agree. I still think a powermeter (used correctly of course) provides the best performance upgrade for $1000, whether or not a rider intends to race, for all the reasons laid out by myself, Drew Eckhardt, Beaker, and others. And I would also like to have the OP speak.

lsberrios1 

Even though I just got myself a power meter (it's on the way) I wouldnt have put in on my "old" 2012 alu bike. First I had to had carbon then I jumped over to the PM. I accept a PM would have been a better investment to get faster but I have to say that I've enjoyed my new bike so much that it wouldnt have felt right if I would have stayed with the old Alu. bike with a PM. It was hard enough for me to skip the CF deep V wheels to opt for the PM but I got myself a set of "inexpensive" alum clinchers that feel much better than stock.

I think a new bike will give the OP a good boost in performance "1mph more on average" and make him ride more. Whereas the PM is really useful if you want to race hard.