Brainstorm: Help me save 1000g!
#26
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12 pound bike is weight weenie
21 pounds was heavy 30 years ago.
If OP ever returns, perhaps he should consider whether a 15-16 pound bike is really for him. Maybe a test drive of a new bike would confirm whether the weight loss and associated cost is worth it. $1 per gram lost is a no-brainer to me. I draw the line somewhere at $2-3 per gram. There is so much low hanging fruit on that bike but 1000 grams is going to cost perhaps $2000. The first 500 grams would be cheap. Might it make sense to sell it and add the $2000 to the partially recouped money from the sale?
21 pounds was heavy 30 years ago.
If OP ever returns, perhaps he should consider whether a 15-16 pound bike is really for him. Maybe a test drive of a new bike would confirm whether the weight loss and associated cost is worth it. $1 per gram lost is a no-brainer to me. I draw the line somewhere at $2-3 per gram. There is so much low hanging fruit on that bike but 1000 grams is going to cost perhaps $2000. The first 500 grams would be cheap. Might it make sense to sell it and add the $2000 to the partially recouped money from the sale?
#27
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#28
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Ti Skewers can be around 50 grams (saving you 80-100 grams) for less than $50.
Aerothan tubes are 85 gram total (saving you 110-130ish grams) for about $60. Or Latex would be 125 gram total for about $25.
Lightweight handlebar tape like Deda Traforato can take off 20-40 grams for 12 bucks.
So for about 100 bucks, you can very easily lose half a lb.
Aerothan tubes are 85 gram total (saving you 110-130ish grams) for about $60. Or Latex would be 125 gram total for about $25.
Lightweight handlebar tape like Deda Traforato can take off 20-40 grams for 12 bucks.
So for about 100 bucks, you can very easily lose half a lb.
#29
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In case you weren't aware, 'official' (whatever that means) bike weights typically don't include pedals. So you can knock off ~400 grams by just not including your pedal weight. Likewise, you wouldn't include bells, garmin mounts, seatbags, lights, water bottle cages, etc
#30
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12 pound bike is weight weenie
21 pounds was heavy 30 years ago.
If OP ever returns, perhaps he should consider whether a 15-16 pound bike is really for him. Maybe a test drive of a new bike would confirm whether the weight loss and associated cost is worth it. $1 per gram lost is a no-brainer to me. I draw the line somewhere at $2-3 per gram. There is so much low hanging fruit on that bike but 1000 grams is going to cost perhaps $2000. The first 500 grams would be cheap. Might it make sense to sell it and add the $2000 to the partially recouped money from the sale?
21 pounds was heavy 30 years ago.
If OP ever returns, perhaps he should consider whether a 15-16 pound bike is really for him. Maybe a test drive of a new bike would confirm whether the weight loss and associated cost is worth it. $1 per gram lost is a no-brainer to me. I draw the line somewhere at $2-3 per gram. There is so much low hanging fruit on that bike but 1000 grams is going to cost perhaps $2000. The first 500 grams would be cheap. Might it make sense to sell it and add the $2000 to the partially recouped money from the sale?
I like the idea of a lightweight bike, and I love the feeling of instant acceleration that it often provides. That said, I never bonded with any of the carbon frames that I test rode, for whatever reason - and I was always more partial to my steel Bianchi Vigorelli (also 21 lbs). That's pretty much the reason I went titanium - not quite as whippy, but comfortable.
And yes, this thread is to solicit feedback as to what that low hanging fruit could be, were I to get itchy with the credit card...
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Then I think wheels and saddle are probably the obvious places to look. Might also be worth looking at your shoes and other wearable kit. Helmet, shades, jacket etc.
#32
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Low hanging fruit - go fix gear. Can the disk brakes. Consider sewups. The ti bike of my logo is a straight wall, not-so-light frame and steel fork. Quill stem. Dual pivot brakes. Heavy Shimano 600/Dura Ace pedals modified with a big steel tab and weights (for easy fix gear pick up).
When new - 19 pounds weighed with 2 steel bottle cages, frame pump, medium weight aluminum clincher wheels and tool bag with tubes, patch kit and wrench for the rear hub.
Hmmm, forgot about those darned vertical dropouts ... that fix gear fruit doesn't hang so low. Now that wheels I raced in a previous millenium would go a long ways. 290 gram rims. 250 gram sewups. Yes, dozens of spokes but 1.8-1.5 gauge. And a freewheel with just 5 cogs, biggest 19 teeth (sometimes 17t!). Short chain. Of course, that bike required a pre-Lance Armstrong philosophy to get up hills.
When new - 19 pounds weighed with 2 steel bottle cages, frame pump, medium weight aluminum clincher wheels and tool bag with tubes, patch kit and wrench for the rear hub.
Hmmm, forgot about those darned vertical dropouts ... that fix gear fruit doesn't hang so low. Now that wheels I raced in a previous millenium would go a long ways. 290 gram rims. 250 gram sewups. Yes, dozens of spokes but 1.8-1.5 gauge. And a freewheel with just 5 cogs, biggest 19 teeth (sometimes 17t!). Short chain. Of course, that bike required a pre-Lance Armstrong philosophy to get up hills.
#33
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What about water bottles and their cages? My son still uses those camelback insulated bottles and they weigh over 100 grams each. I re-use a couple of old 24 fl oz. Gatorade or GU bottles that only weigh about 32 grams each.
Bottle cages themselves can be heavy if you weren't picky when you got them.
Otherwise just save a gram in a thousand different places.
Bottle cages themselves can be heavy if you weren't picky when you got them.
Otherwise just save a gram in a thousand different places.
As for insulated bottles, I have a Polar that comes out when it's warm, but usually one 21oz and one 24oz standard bottle is good.
#34
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The UltraSport is a folding bead, and actually doesn't weigh that different from the GP5k. I have it because it was OEM on the bike, but there's a GP5k 25mm waiting for when the UltraSport goes. And yes, others have mentioned latex over butyl.
Carbon and rim brakes would just be a different bike now :-)
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It would seem like some forming of the tubes beyond basic shapes would be possible, although perhaps straight tubes have to do with titanium flexibility and stresses.
Anyway, even without drilling out the frame, one may be able to post-manufacture thin the walls or add some type of fullers.
#36
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And I like how this frame rides, so sticking with it for now.
#37
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If you really want to go weight weenie, you can save even more on the wheelset. Building an 1100-1200g wheelset is possible with LB is you pick a flyweight hookless low profile rim. That's 700-800g.
A berk saddle would save around 200g in probably one of the best places to save weight. But ofc your butt might not like it.
A schmolke TLO seatpost can save 90ish grams but would also cost a ton. The lightest and most expensive one-piece bar/stem would probably save you no more than 200g.
So altogether for the wheels, saddle, bar, stem and seatpost you're talking maybe 1300g max. And that's with thousands of dollars spent. You could probably buy a carbon bike that weighs less (rim brakes) with that money.
A berk saddle would save around 200g in probably one of the best places to save weight. But ofc your butt might not like it.
A schmolke TLO seatpost can save 90ish grams but would also cost a ton. The lightest and most expensive one-piece bar/stem would probably save you no more than 200g.
So altogether for the wheels, saddle, bar, stem and seatpost you're talking maybe 1300g max. And that's with thousands of dollars spent. You could probably buy a carbon bike that weighs less (rim brakes) with that money.
#38
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Definitely manage most of my PRs with this strategy!
#39
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but yes. Very, very low profile rims.
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#40
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I have a couple of Elite plastic (fiberglass?) cages. Pretty sure they weigh less than standard alloy cages, but didn't go crazy and spend hundreds on carbon fiber.
As for insulated bottles, I have a Polar that comes out when it's warm, but usually one 21oz and one 24oz standard bottle is good.
As for insulated bottles, I have a Polar that comes out when it's warm, but usually one 21oz and one 24oz standard bottle is good.
Amazon.com : Wiel 100% Full Carbon Fiber Bicycle Bike Light Drink Water Bottle Cage Holder (2Pcs All Black) : Sports & Outdoors
Unlike handlebars, stem, seat post, etc., bottle cages are not a structural component. So I feel OK with an unknown brand.
I used them for a couple of years before switching to the more expensive Elite fiberglass cages.
Last edited by SoSmellyAir; 05-31-21 at 12:38 PM.
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You can buy a pair of carbon fiber bottle cages for $30 on Amazon. For example:
Amazon.com : Wiel 100% Full Carbon Fiber Bicycle Bike Light Drink Water Bottle Cage Holder (2Pcs All Black) : Sports & Outdoors
Unlike handlebars, stem, seat post, etc., bottle cages are not a structural component. So I feel OK with an unknown brand.
I used them for a couple of years before switching to the more expensive Elite fiberglass cages.
Amazon.com : Wiel 100% Full Carbon Fiber Bicycle Bike Light Drink Water Bottle Cage Holder (2Pcs All Black) : Sports & Outdoors
Unlike handlebars, stem, seat post, etc., bottle cages are not a structural component. So I feel OK with an unknown brand.
I used them for a couple of years before switching to the more expensive Elite fiberglass cages.
The Titanium King Cages are rated at about 28g (each).
I'd go with the Titanium for a Titanium bike, for a 5g x2 hit.
Don't forget Titanium water bottle bolts.
Toronto Cycles has just about anything you want in Titanium. Start changing nuts, bolts, and any other bits and pieces out.
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How does the SRAM shift? I've been looking at cassettes anyway, as I hate how the HG800 is 2-teeth between all of the higher gears (11-13-15-17). Was pretty much just planning on an RS8000 11-30 or 11-32, but if the SRAM has comparable performance at lighter weight, might be worth considering.
The UltraSport is a folding bead, and actually doesn't weigh that different from the GP5k. I have it because it was OEM on the bike, but there's a GP5k 25mm waiting for when the UltraSport goes. And yes, others have mentioned latex over butyl.
Carbon and rim brakes would just be a different bike now :-)
The UltraSport is a folding bead, and actually doesn't weigh that different from the GP5k. I have it because it was OEM on the bike, but there's a GP5k 25mm waiting for when the UltraSport goes. And yes, others have mentioned latex over butyl.
Carbon and rim brakes would just be a different bike now :-)
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#43
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I looked up that Onda seat. FeC alloy rails. Fancy name for ordinary steel. Easy low hanging fruit. That shape doesn't appear especially unique and I bet a much light seat that is just as comfortable can be found. I ride the Terry Fly with ti rails on 3 of my bikes because they fit and I like more flex than steel rails offer. 255 gm or a 105 gm savings.
#44
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Stay away from the Kalloy Uno stem - never mind safety, it's a right noodle.
My Caden Decadence 49mm tubulars = 1080g. Rims = 330g. Oh yeah, AU$1800.
My Caden Decadence 49mm tubulars = 1080g. Rims = 330g. Oh yeah, AU$1800.
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Last edited by Kimmo; 05-31-21 at 05:24 PM.
#45
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Well sure. But I looked at the Caden website and the 49mm clincher is 1350g. So unless OP is willing to go tubular (which is, to be fair, a go-to for weight weenies), that's a dead end. The caden low profile clincher is around 1190g too.
#46
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That's not too shabby for deep clinchers though.
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#47
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Ok!
So it sounds like there are a few options that don't involve changing out to a carbon frame, or switching over to poorer performing components:
- Carbon wheels could save 400-700g, depending on how much to prioritize weight
- Going to a 32t Ultegra cassette would shed ~50g, switching to a SRAM XG-1190 11-32 could save ~100g
- Latex tubes could save 100g total - seems like Conti Supersonics could do similar?
- Changing out the saddle. I just put this saddle on, replacing a lighter, but less comfy, Prologo Kappa of some sort. Just going back to that would likely be ~75g or so (haven't weighed the two)
If I assume 500g for the wheels, 100g with the SRAM cassette, 100g with Supersonic or latex tubes, and ~75g for the saddle, that's got me to nearly 800g down. Considering I was already considering swapping out wheels and cassette, the incremental there for tubes and a pricier cassette is relatively small.
Cool beans.
So it sounds like there are a few options that don't involve changing out to a carbon frame, or switching over to poorer performing components:
- Carbon wheels could save 400-700g, depending on how much to prioritize weight
- Going to a 32t Ultegra cassette would shed ~50g, switching to a SRAM XG-1190 11-32 could save ~100g
- Latex tubes could save 100g total - seems like Conti Supersonics could do similar?
- Changing out the saddle. I just put this saddle on, replacing a lighter, but less comfy, Prologo Kappa of some sort. Just going back to that would likely be ~75g or so (haven't weighed the two)
If I assume 500g for the wheels, 100g with the SRAM cassette, 100g with Supersonic or latex tubes, and ~75g for the saddle, that's got me to nearly 800g down. Considering I was already considering swapping out wheels and cassette, the incremental there for tubes and a pricier cassette is relatively small.
Cool beans.
#48
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I have a Ritchey WCS aluminum stem, an Easton EA50 aluminum stem on other bikes- dont notice them being stiffer.
Is the Kalloy Uno 7 stem being a noodle a common view or do you just put out gobs of torque?
#49
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No carbon fiber crankset?
#50
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I wonder what the weight savings would be to convert to classic brakes and carbon fiber downtube friction shifters.
There is a fairly elusive Campagnolo Record Track/TT brake lever without brifter guts.
There is a fairly elusive Campagnolo Record Track/TT brake lever without brifter guts.