juvela

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one thing to keep in mind on the Marukin is that its Sakae Ringyo Silstar chainset employs the odd three degree taper


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Pompiere

Someone (maybe you) had alerted me to that earlier, so I kept the set together. While I had the crank apart, I tried it on some other spindles, just to see. The fit was so bad, I don't think I could accidentally mix them up. The Silstar crank went all the way past where the bolt would bottom out. That was just holding the pieces in my hands, not bolting it together.

Another thing I found on both my Kabuki and the Marukin is the bottom brackets have British threads, but are 72 mm wide. Standard cartridge bottom brackets work fine as long as they are not too narrow.

Senior Ryder 00 

Hi folks,

The big Z directed me to the “From the frame up” category.

So, this is my launch:

My before picture was posted a couple of days ago. I’ll post updates periodically. This will be primarily to keep me on track.

DAY 1, Rubbed out frame with polishing compound & reinstall fork with repainted blades. Zero miles.

DAY 2, Begin build. Installed brakes, Crankset, Saddle/post & wheels/tires. Zero miles.





Cheers,

Van

Pompiere

Here is my entry for the "built around one part" division. Everything came from my parts stash or was salvaged from other bikes. No parts were bought specifically for this project. I got the Shimano 3 speed hub from a Huffy I picked up curbside several years ago. The Araya rims and spokes are from another bike. I had these wheels on my Kabuki for a while, but they had been sitting in my garage for a few years I put derailleurs back on the Kabuki. When I found the Marukin rusting away outside a local antique shop, I thought it was the perfect candidate. The soft steel frame was easy to squeeze in to accommodate the narrower 3 speed hub. Because many of the original parts were badly rusted, as a matter of convenience, I elected to scavenge the stem/handlebar/brake lever assembly and the brakes from the Kabuki. The Sakae Ringyo Silstar crank cleaned up nicely. The outer 48 tooth ring is swaged on, so I removed the inner ring and used a 22 tooth rear for ratios of 44, 59, 78.5 inches. The chain line is pretty good. Of course, the shorty fenders stayed. They are all alloy, so each one only weighs about an ounce. I was able to use three out of four original axle wing nuts. Overall weight dropped from 32 to 26.5 pounds. Pigment was rubbing off on my rag when I was cleaning the frame, but it shined up nicely with a coat of wax.

We are under severe weather warnings today, so the maiden ride will have to wait a bit. I may make a few tweaks after I see how it goes.

​​​​​​​
1970s Marukin 3 speed

AdventureManCO 

I've heard from more than one person that they are really excited to see you posting again. It's always nice to have a break, especially if the reason is a new kiddo. Welcome back!

Chr0m0ly 

Thank you!
That’s awfully nice to read!

cycleheimer

1981 Fuji Royale in Anthracite Gray in my size. I had an '81 S-12-S, which was too small, and the frame and components were date stamped the same month as those on the Royale. Some major swapping, a complete overhaul (disassembly, cleaning, regreasing, etc.), and a few trips to my parts and supplies "department", and a once forlorn looking Fuji became my beloved commuter. The final cash outlay fell well below the required budget ceiling here, and the S-12-S also turned out fine.

bikemig 

I bought what I believe to be a 1973 SekineSHR on April 1 for $20. I didn't really want it, but I bought it thinking it would be great for the cheapo build. You can't really go wrong with a cro-mo double butted frame, chrome socks and fork, nice paint and parts (Suntour derailleurs, Dia-compe center pull brakes, SR crank, Sansin high flange hubs, Suntour 5 speed freewheel) for $20. Even the tires are in nice shape.

I want to keep the build cheap while turning this into A1 riding condition as a bike I might actually want to keep. I also want to put the bike on a diet to drop the weight from 27.5 lbs to a svelte 26 lbs. I'm going to think of this project as a quality, cheapo, C&V appropriate weight weenie build, .

First, I'd like keep the consumables down to $20 (new brake pads, new shifter and brake cables and housing). I should be able to keep this cost down as the tires are in good shape. Yes I could rehab what's on the but the cables and pads are 50 years old; they need to go.

Second, I'll swap out the parts that are cruddy. The saddle is cruddy and the wheels have steel rims. So those parts at least need to go.

Third, the bike weighs 27.5 lbs. The saddle, the steel chain guard on the crank, and the steel rim add weight and need to go.

Total costs so far: $20.

Fredo76

The bottom bracket on my Raleigh Super Record mixte was in petty tight. And it wasn't going to work for me. Not only was it turning rough, I couldn't get the left crank arm on enough to tighten the nut on the old-style studded spindle. I bought the correct tools from Park to get the lockring and fixed cup out, but they weren't enough - even hammering on the new tool didn't loosen the lockring.

Time for some engineering. What I needed (I hoped) was simply more leverage, so I set about making a longer handle extension for the tools I had just bought.



Laying out a handle extension



A leverage-adding tool mod

Steady pressure worked far better than hammering on the tool, alright, and the lockring came out fine. I needed to slightly modify the new handle to accept the fixed-cup tool.



Augmented fixed cup tool

I was still worried about the wrench slipping, so I clamped it down beforehand.



Fixed cup removal w/wrench in clamp

Success! With the old BB out, I put in a new Shimano sealed-bearing unit.



New Shimano 68/122mm BB installed

Problem obliterated, owner relieved!

USAZorro

I recently met a new friend who specializes in tough jobs (though not BBs so much)

Fredo76

I have a 12" adjustable wrench, plus a three-foot pipe that slips over the handle! I included a few of my pictures above in two reviews of the Park tools. We'll see if the reviews make to their website. Somehow, I doubt they will.

Pompiere

We had an unexpected warm afternoon and the winds were relatively calm , so I took the FW Evans for its maiden voyage. This is my first British bike and first 531 frame. I am really happy with it so far. I only needed to tweak the seat angle, everything else fit perfectly. I will ride it a few more times and then tear it back down for painting. 14 miles in the book.

cyccommute 

First 20 km (actual ride was 30 km). Even though I have 3 of this model of bike, I keep forgetting how great a mountain bike these bikes are. Once I take this one apart I need to get out on the other one more often (the third one lives at my daughter’s house)

Fredo76

The gory details of my Raleigh mixte frame-up build can be found here, with a sneak peek.

Beware of triggering content, however.

USAZorro

There were a couple other (better) options available.

Re-arrange spacers and re-dish
Re-arrange spacers and re-dish and (about 9:00 in)

Fredo76

Better for some situations, perhaps. My wheel needs to fit two bikes, and I've re-dished it already. Hell, I've UN-dished FRONT wheels, too. And there was simply no way a 7-speed wheel was going to fit without grinding on those stay ends. A local framebuilder and I struggled for four hours to get my racing frame spread to 126 and also still be aligned. With three stays on each dropout, and the dropouts already at 126, which all my wheels are, spreading further was not an option for me. Thanks for the tip anyway!

USAZorro

Never tried it with a mixte, and I've never considered interchanging wheels. Those definitely add to the complexity. Still, grinding gives me the willies.

Fredo76

Yeah, I know what you mean. But that's what trigger warnings are for! At least I'm honest about it. Raleigh must have sold this frame with six-speed wheels, but I bought some seven-speed brifters for this build, and the two won't work together because of different cog spacing. I tried simply bashing on the stay ends first, and the lack of any change in shape led me to think that I would not be creating any new holes with the grinding, which proved to be correct. I'm confident that the strength is still adequate. The frame does not belong to history; it's mine. I saved at least 3/16" of excessive dishing, which probably would have ruined the wheel attempting.

bikemig 

Making steady progress on the 70s Sekine SHR I picked up this month for $20. I own another Sekine (an SHS 271) and really like the bikes. This is a nicely made bike with great paint and double butted chrome moly tubing. It clearly had been outside for a while where it picked up some rust and then spent most of the last 50 or so years indoors. I took the bike apart so I could soak the small bits in evaporust and the drive train in my parts cleaner. The frame cleaned up nicely as well. Here are the before and after pics of the small bits plus a pic of the frame. Money invested in the project so far is at $20 but I've already had more than $20 worth of fun working on the bike,

Total costs so far, $20:


Before cleanup

After cleanup

USAZorro

Those pedals look kinda stubborn.

Pray tell, where does one find Evaporust here in the states?

bikemig 

The pedals look much better in real life than in the pic. The rust has been replaced with a pleasing speckled discoloration, . I should try the old tin foil and water trick on them as well.

You can get evaporust on Amazon and cheaper locally no doubt. It works great. I have a small plastic bucket with a screw on lid. I dump the parts in evaporust overnight and presto the rust is gone.

https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Or...04341797&psc=1

bikemig 

I overhauled everything on the bike other than the headset, put a bit of oil on the jockey wheels, and greased all the threaded bits. I put everything in my parts cleaner overnight before rebuilding it. Next step after this will be the build.

Total costs so far: $20.

The bike has a stuck stem. I knew that when I bought the bike which is why I offered $20 for it. I had hoped to loosen it up by shooting some PB blaster down the stem but I can't get to it. The stem has a nicely formed bulge that prevents me from pulling the headset locknut up very far which in turn makes it hard to shoot the PB blaster around the stem and steerer column. There are other ways to get a stuck stem out but I figure the game isn't worth the candle.

That said, the parts on the bike are in great shape. The bearing surfaces are in great shape. The brake pads show remarkably little wear. The wheels are true. The parts--other than the ass hatchet of a saddle--are all good. The paint is in very good shape. The frame is nice quality as the main triangle is double butted chrome-moly. I figure this bike had more rust than miles on it when I picked it up. Here are a few pics of the bike; the 3d pic is of the rear drive side drop out which is a bit different than any other dropout I've seen. It has a derailleur hanger and a stop that was manufactured as part of the drop out. It does make it easy to center the wheel but it also prevents you from sliding the wheel too far back on the drop out.

jdawginsc 

Amazon

cyccommute 

Ace Hardware, Home Depot, Tractor Supply, Walmart, etc.

merziac

OReilly's, Autozone, Advaced Auto, etc, etc.